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Discussion Starter #1
Nothing but premium gas from the start. Mostly Exxon, Shell and Sunoco. Nothing but full synthetic oil from the start. The last 35,000 miles has been Penzoil Ultra Platnum 5W-30. Pictures are all 8 valves from left to right as your facing the engine(passenger to drivers side).

Removed the 5 bolts and was able to get the scope in there. Bolt torque is 177 in-lbs. Watch out for your gaskets, they will pull away and fall.

Pulled away intake cover.



















Looks like this is no myth and the valves will need to be cleaned by 100K. Somebody mentioned that these intakes are teflon coated. Any proof of that? In some ways that is not good if they are teflon coated. Whether you hand clean your valves or blast them or use a combination of cleaning methods including chemicals not sure how the teflon would hold up. I think Ford just expects us to get a new valve cover and valves when the time comes. A little saddened by this.
 

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Nothing but premium gas from the start. Mostly Exxon, Shell and Sunoco. Nothing but full synthetic oil from the start. The last 35,000 miles has been Penzoil Ultra Platnum 5W-30. Pictures are all 8 valves from left to right as your facing the engine(passenger to drivers side).

Removed the 5 bolts and was able to get the scope in there. Bolt torque is 177 in-lbs. Watch out for your gaskets, they will pull away and fall.

Pulled away intake cover.



















Looks like this is no myth and the valves will need to be cleaned by 100K. Somebody mentioned that these intakes are teflon coated. Any proof of that? In some ways that is not good if they are teflon coated. Whether you hand clean your valves or blast them or use a combination of cleaning methods including chemicals not sure how the teflon would hold up. I think Ford just expects us to get a new valve cover and valves when the time comes. A little saddened by this.



BMW dealerships clean the intake valves of thier direct injection engines with a compressor which blasts the valves with crushed walnut shells. The intake manifold is removed and a small camera with led light is put down the intake. The engine is then rotated until the intake valves are closed and then a small brass nozzel which shoots crushed walnut shells is used to blast the carbon off the vales, The debris is then vacummed out. BMW charges about $500 to do this and recommends it every 30,000 miles. I say about 50 to 75 thousand miles should be alright and have it done maybe once or twice over the life of the vehicle. I bet Ford dealer ships may start adding this service as a money maker.


I heard you can buy a kit to do this but you need a sizeable air compressor and the guts and equipment to take the intake manifold off of your engine.


As to prevention use the best quaility synthetic oils available with the best (lowest amount of evaporation) NOACK score.


The
NOACK Volatility
Test, otherwise known as ASTM D-5800, determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high-temperature service. The more motor oils vaporize, the thicker and heavier they become, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy and increased oil consumption, wear and emissions.

Amsoil and Penzoil ultimate are among the better prefoming oils in this test.
Another thing that can be done is place a catch can in the PVC system to catch some of the oil before it can get cooked to the intake valve.
 

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Were you having any running issues with your engine? Hesitation and poor throttle response is the most common symptoms of carboned up intake valves.


The synthetic must have helped since your valves are not in as bad of shape as some of the pictures I looked at of direct injection engines. Do you have at Catch can for the PCV system? I heard that can help reduce the amount of cooked on oil vapors that coat the valves
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Were you having any running issues with your engine? Hesitation and poor throttle response is the most common symptoms of carboned up intake valves.


The synthetic must have helped since your valves are not in as bad of shape as some of the pictures I looked at of direct injection engines. Do you have at Catch can for the PCV system? I heard that can help reduce the amount of cooked on oil vapors that coat the valves
No catch can. Can't really say I am having any issues. From day 1 I felt my transmission had shifting issues, but the dealer just blew that off. My Escape still does not shift to my liking and I can't really attribute it to intake hesitation because the shifting is so crappy.

This post is merely a base line for other folks. I change my oil VERY often. So the Escape owners that don't use top tier gas, don't change oil often may have worse looking valves.

This is not an IF but a WHEN as far as valve cleaning.
 

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Well there's proof it will happen. Good thing it still runs fine at 75,000. With luck it should only need to be delt with once in the life time of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well there's proof it will happen. Good thing it still runs fine at 75,000. With luck it should only need to be delt with once in the life time of the car.
This is true. I will more than likely do a complete cleaning towards the end of this summer. Should have about 80K by then.

Only problem is I have kept all of my previous vehicles well over 200K. My last two, an '89 Pathfinder(225,000 miles) and an 01 Rav4(206,000 miles). So a second cleaning may be in order.

How does that 10% ethanol I read on all the pumps factor into this?
 

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You've confirmed what I long thought would occur with this DI motor. Top tier fuel, premium oil and frequent changes will not reduce buildup of gunk and deposits on the top of the valves if fuel detergents don't wash over them. Although Ford said they remedied this by modifying the intake cycle to stay open long enough to allow some fuel to wash out and over the valves I doubted this and thought it sounded funny.

I'm sure you've read the imfamous $1200 Audi maintenance for this exact situation. However on a positive note it appears that the buildup on the Ford EcoBoost motors does not affect MPG's or performance nearly as much as it did to the early model Audi's. Still though, it's a shame that this build up of gunk can't be prevented.

Using an oil seperator on both the intake and positve side of the engine will likely not have much of an effect on the build up of gunk on the valves, however it is cheap insurance and I would assume it would slow the build up slightly. If you have the means to install them then I doubt it would hurt anything and can only delay the time it takes to build up the level of deposits you are seeing now.

I would be curious to see if the build up such as yours is cleaned off, what affect would that have on performance and fuel efficiency?

My hope is that if you request Ford to clean the intake valves that they do not charge $1200.00 and recommend this service be done every 50-75K miles.
 

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No catch can. Can't really say I am having any issues.

This is not an IF but a WHEN as far as valve cleaning.
I'll probably get rid of mine before that kind of mileage but IMHO, if it ain't broke, why fix it?
Seriously, did the vehicle have any drivability issues? Performance fall off? Mileage decrease?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'll probably get rid of mine before that kind of mileage but IMHO, if it ain't broke, why fix it?
Seriously, did the vehicle have any drivability issues? Performance fall off? Mileage decrease?
I agree 100%. I will clean them at my leisure. Not really any issues. Hard to say about the mileage since we just came off of winter fuel. But as far as I can tell my mpg has been the same for 3 years.

But like I said, this is merely a 75,000 mile "sneak peak" at our intake valves. I think it's fare to say that the valves should be cleaned at or before 100K. But a 75K valve "service" wouldn't hurt either.
 

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I agree 100%. I will clean them at my leisure. Not really any issues. Hard to say about the mileage since we just came off of winter fuel. But as far as I can tell my mpg has been the same for 3 years.

But like I said, this is merely a 75,000 mile "sneak peak" at our intake valves. I think it's fare to say that the valves should be cleaned at or before 100K. But a 75K valve "service" wouldn't hurt either.

How will you clean off the carbon deposits? Are you going to use a solvent (carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner) and a soft brass brush to clean the valves? Or are you going to buy the crushed walnut shell and use an air compressor and hopper for the crushed walnuts shell with a small nozzel to blast the carbon off? BMW dealerships clean their DI engines intake valves with the crush walnut shell air pressure abrasion and vaccum method.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Removing the intake manifold and throttle body is pretty easy. I will more than likely clean the valves myself using a combination of picks, wire brushes and solvent.
 

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How much work is it to remove the head? Can it be done at home or are we beyond that now.
 

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How much work is it to remove the head? Can it be done at home or are we beyond that now.
The head will be a ****. But the intake manifold is like 4-5 bolts and it moves toward the front and you have access to the intake runners. With the IM moved you can use a wire brush or gun to blow in and do the job and vacuum out.
 

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Your photos have disappeared. Can you post a link to them?

I just went back to page one and now they are there. Must be on my end.
 

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Does the OP or anyone else have any pictures of what a 2.5 naturally aspirated engine would look like at 75,000 miles. I am sure it would look dark and grungy too. The question in my mind is how much worse are the ecoboost direct injected engines. I have no comparison.
 

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That's a good one.
 

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The 2.5L might be missing about 70HP in there somewhere, dunno for sure, maybe a closer look will find it!

Sorry, had to say it
 
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