Perhaps now with the stored code, they'll have something to go on...
Hopefully this one fixes it, if not I'll revisit 13-12-12 again and PM FordService with my info to see if they have any insight.TSB 14-0034
02/20/14
1.6L GTDI / 2.0L GTDI - SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT - DTCS P007B/P0236/P06A7
FORD:
2013-2014 Fusion
LINCOLN:
2014 MKZ
FORD:
2013-2014 Escape
ISSUE
Some 2013-2014 Escape vehicles built on or before 10/22/2013, 2013-2014 Fusion and 2014 MKZ vehicles built on or before 10/18/2013 and equipped with 1.6L or 2.0L Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection (GTDI) engines may exhibit difficult to start, runs rough at start up, crank no start, lack of power, loss of RPM or hesitation concerns with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P007B or P0236 along with P06A7 stored in powertrain control module memory (PCM).
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure Steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Using Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS), check for DTCs.
2. Does the vehicle exhibit a driveability concern with DTC P007B or P0236 along with P06A7 stored?
a. Yes - replace TCBP/CACT/MAPT sensor and fastener. Torque the fastener to 4.1 Nm +/- .7 Nm (36.3 lb-in +/- 6.2lb-in). Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), section 303-14, and Wiring Diagram, Section 5-1. (Figures 1 and 2)
(1) Other DTCs may also be present along with P007B, P0236 and P06A7, which share the VREF circuit.
(2) 1.6L GTDI engine TCBP/CACT (MAPT) sensor location. (Figure 1)
(3) 2.0L GTDI engine TCBP/CACT (MAPT) sensor location. (Figure 2)
b. No - Perform normal Workshop Manual diagnostics.
Hey SteveTurbo,You may want to reach out to ford customer service on here to have them open a case for you.
Thanks for the update, brianwi.Hopefully this one fixes it, if not I'll revisit 13-12-12 again and PM FordService with my info to see if they have any insight.
Hello Ties,I have had the same issue happen to me a couple of times but I discovered how it would happen (for my vehicle anyways)...
Thanks for the info, brianwi.Tricia, I will PM you my vehicle and dealer information.
Brian
Mine was doing the same thing back when the recall for the wiring harness splices came out and every time I called the dealer about getting the recall done, they said they could not do anything till the parts came out from ford, so I fixed it myself, since my wife was not comfortable driving it like that. It runs perfect now.Hi,
I've got a 2013 Escape 2.0 FWD that about a month ago had a message come up "Engine Fault - Service Now" and started running really rough. After stopping and restarting the vehicle, the message went away and it ran normally. I brought it into the dealer, they couldn't find any problem (no codes, couldn't duplicate it) so they cleared the computer and told me to let them know if it recurred.
A week or so later, the problem happened again, I took a picture of the message that was displayed and sent in a vehicle health report, and brought it back in the next day. Again, they couldn't find any codes in the computer. They kept it a couple of days and still couldn't duplicate it. I mentioned TSB 13-12-12, as I had seen quite a few posts from others who had the issue and the TSB seems to describe what I was experiencing almost exactly, and they immediately dismissed it because my vehicle apparently didn't have that defect.
A couple weeks passed and I was hopeful that maybe it was OK now, but then it happened again this evening (always after the dealership is closed). This time I was prepared, I had purchased a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter (GoPoint BT1) and downloaded the DashCommand app for my iPhone, and was able to read the codes when it happened (P0236 - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance). It showed as a pending code. I stopped/started the vehicle and it again went away. However this time, I had to make another stop before heading home and this time, the problem came back and set a stored P0236 code, which apparently lights the check engine light and does not reset when restarting the vehicle (though the symptoms of the issue/engine fault did go away after the restart, but the check engine light stayed). I'm hoping this time I can convince the dealership that maybe 13-12-12 is applicable (P0236 is mentioned, as well as it doesn't always set the code).
Has anyone else had issues with the dealership saying that this isn't the issue, and later found out that it was? I'm also surprised that they couldn't get anything useful from the VHR even when I ran it when the problem was happening. I've got the Ford ESP PremiumCare extended warranty, so I'm good for 7 years/125,000 miles, and I assume this would be covered. Going to give it another try with the dealership, however anyone have any advice on next steps if they still can't/won't fix it?
Thanks,
Brian
Electrical - Hard Start, Low Power, Runs Rough, DTC P0106/P0236
TSB 13-12-12
12/06/13
1.6L OR 2.0L GTDI ENGINE - DRIVABILITY CONCERNS WITH DTCS
P0106, P0236 - OR ENGINE FAULT SERVICE ENGINE NOW MESSAGE
WITHOUT DTCS - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 10/24/2013
FORD:
2013-2014 Escape
This article supersedes TSB 13-7-5 to add a production fix date, update the vehicle model years, Issue Statement, Part List and Service Procedure.
ISSUE
Some 2013-2014 Escape vehicles equipped with 1.6L or 2.0L Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection (GTDI) engines and built on or before 10/24/2013 may exhibit difficult to start, runs rough, crank no-start, lack of power, loss of RPM or hesitation concerns with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0106 and/or P0236. An Engine Fault Service Engine Now message may also be displayed without any DTCs in self test. These conditions may be caused by a wiring concern in the signal return splices.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure Steps to correct the condition.
I would 1st make sure all recalls have been done, they will be performed at no cost regardless of warranty status.Since my vehicle is out of warranty is there anywhere you can buy the harness? Looks like I might be doing this one myself.
If you are referring to the wiring splice recall, the repair is not accomplished by replacing a harness. The recall repair involves locating specific wires within a bundle of about 20 wires. Then you have to re-solder some splices back together. It's not terrible difficult to do and I believe a video exists online showing the whole procedure.Since my vehicle is out of warranty is there anywhere you can buy the harness? Looks like I might be doing this one myself.