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Question

I'm picking up our 2013 Titanium tomorrow from the dealer.

Was there primarily to have a rear wheel bearing replaced, but I also asked them to check the clunk in the front end and the loose steering on gravel roads. When I told the tech about the clunk, right off the bat before even checking it out, he said it was "probably normal".

Anyhow, according to the invoice, the problem is caused by "tire cupping". :confused:

We'll see what they say tomorrow.

In any event, when I left it with the dealer, I told them they could easily duplicate the noise...

Turn off the engine to disable the power steering, and rock the steering wheel back and forth. There's an audible clunk in both directions within about 20 degrees of rotation. If you do it with the power steering operating, the noise doesn't occur until you jostle the suspension on a dirt road (we live on a dirt road, so I'm very familiar with the noise).

Just curious if anyone else with the common clunk has been able to make it occur by moving the steering wheel back and forth with the engine off? If we have the same clunk, it seems like it might be easier to locate if this method to duplicate it works.
 

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I'm going to copy and paste my last post in another thread on this issue. To answer chrisser, I cannot duplicate the noise while "sawing" back and forth on the steering wheel with the engine off or running with the car sitting still. I have heard it while doing this at a low speed rolling down the street (think racing car scrubbing tires before a restart), but had to do it rather violently.

C & P:

Our Escape has been to the dealer for three days total to try and address this problem. The car is out of warranty, but because of the extremely low mileage on the car, the service manager has agreed to use some of the "goodwill" money/shop time afforded him by the dealer's owner to try and resolve this.

After getting the car back with no paper documentation (and no charge to me), I was told that both the service manager and the technician were able to replicate the noise. To make a long story short (hard for me), the service manager told me that the tech replaced the front sway bar "kit" (the service writer and myself assumed this meant the bar, bushings and brackets - I had already replaced the sway bar end links with aftermarket Moog product), AND "re-centered" the front sub-frame.

I have been driving it for about a month now, and the noise used to happen about a half dozen times in a 5 mile drive to work, but now happens (almost always) only when I back out of the driveway as the left front wheel rolls through the gutter. The frequency of the noise happening has been decreased immensely (and to a tolerable level), so I assume whatever was done to the car did indeed touch on the source of the noise but did not completely eliminate it.

I cannot fathom how the sway bar itself could have anything to do with this since it is one piece of metal - the noise did not exhibit any changes when I replaced the sway bar end links.

What's interesting is that the noise will happen 9 times out of 10 when I back out of the driveway in the morning with the wheels turned to the right as they pass through the depression in the gutter. Wheels turned to the left (leaving the house to the other direction on the street) makes no noise. If I back in and out of the driveway repeatedly time after time, the first time will make the noise and subsequent backings into the street make no noise.

I am ready to hang it up and just live with it as is. Why the hell should I be embarrassed with other people in the car and it makes noise...I didn't design or assemble it. This will be the last time I ever buy a car from the first year of a new model design - to be fair, my last Subaru was first year of a new design and it had its share of issues too...just not as many or as frustrating as the Ford though.
 

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Thanks Pillboy.

I drove the car last night to go to Lowe's. The clunking is just as prevalent as before the trip to the dealer, although I didn't expect any change since they didn't fix anything.

The noise in the back is basically just as bad as before, although I didn't drive it myself the last couple of days prior to the dealer trip, and my wife said the noise increased significantly, and that has been addressed. So I'm guessing the other bearing is on it's way out. Why it didn't get fixed while the car was there is an open question.

Between the two issues, I doubt I'll go back to the same dealer again. We have a Ford warranty - the nice one where it's just $100 per visit and basically everything's covered. I'm not sure what more incentive the dealer needs to take care of the problems than that.

On top of all that, I find out when I get in the car that one of the tire pressure sensors is malfunctioning. My wife forgot to tell me. The dealer had the car for a week - had to have moved it at least once. They knew it was under warranty. Is it unrealistic of me to expect them to have fixed it or at least mentioned it to me?

I see why my Dad fixed his own cars now.

We're in the process of trying to sell several properties we own and then use the proceeds to move into a new place. So between my wife and I, we desperately need two cars right now. So the Escape is going to have to wait a couple of weeks for another trip to another dealer to hopefully get some resolution. Crossing my fingers that my wife's not going to have a wheel bearing seize up or something come loose in the front end (or get a flat tire) until then.

There's a dealer in the small town we plan on moving to. Thinking of giving them a try - the dealer we took the Escape to this last time is in the nearest metro area. I don't know if it will make a difference. I figured the big dealer would have more experience and a bigger team, but maybe a smaller dealer will give better service.

Not sure what else to do. I don't suppose the Ford warranty allows for me to fix it myself and reimburse me for the parts cost? I've not crawled under it yet because I'm paying pretty good money for a warranty - primarily to cover the electronics and the powertrain, but I'm also losing patience with Ford pretty quickly.

The sad thing is, after the house situation is settled, we're in the market to replace my pickup. We had basically decided on an F150 and were frankly excited about it, but now we're both having second thoughts about spending the money Ford wants for a new truck if it's going to be such a problem to fix things under warranty. I guess we'll wait and see if a different dealer gives a better experience before making that decision.
 

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I'm going to copy and paste my last post in another thread on this issue.

It would be a lot better if you provided the link to the thread. That way the OP can see the replies made to your post.
 

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It would be a lot better if you provided the link to the thread. That way the OP can see the replies made to your post.
No replies, as I was the last to post in that thread. ;)
 

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hey guys, I have a 2017 escape se 2.0t and the low speed clunk is still there, been twice to my dealer and first visit was told it was normal and the second I was told it was my mudflaps and when I called the service advisor out on it he basically said they don't know what the noise is. they lied about the noise. anyway im going to keep going in over and over. 17k miles on it and I drive gravel and cracked pavement and it is very loud.
 

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I had my 15 titanium back to the dealer and got the same song and dance that most of you have. ( We drove another car on the lot and it makes the same noise so Ford said it's normal). What a joke.

I had them do a buy back appraisal and they were pretty close to what I wanted. I would have to eat a couple grand but I'm hoping that Ford figures this out and fixes the issue. I do like the Escape. But I'm thinking of moving on.
Maybe try an Explorer??

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Good to hear about that buyback request, mine was denied by Ford and was told to just keep taking it to the dealership, I am beyond fed up and mad. The service manager and I drove my car and 2 other escapes but my issue is much more severe , it has 20k miles on it and it is a 2017. I was told flat out they could not fix it unless a recall or tsb is put out. Ford made in America is a joke. Tmrw will be the 4th time to the dealership and last I went in for a tire rotation that took a hour I was told they were too busy to check out my safety concern. I guess I'm gonna go irate at the dealership and get more people involved, it has gotten to the point any bump at all will cause a rattle and I have my stereo on 10 and it is still audible .
 

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2017 SE 2.0

I just had mine in for the noise and the said they couldn't reproduce on road test and everything looked tight on hoist.

It was making that weird loose knocking sound in their own parking lot when I was leaving.

Frustrated. Anyone know what it is?

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The transmission died "catastrophically" (according to the dealer's analysis) and was rebuilt under warranty.

Since we got it back, the vehicle routinely refuses to start (pushbutton start).


I'm not sure they can get a flatbed down our road to pick up the Escape and take it to the dealer. Since we're close to the end of the warranty period, I'm looking to start picking up the maintenance myself Going to do some basic troubleshooting of this start problem. Since the trans work coincides with the start problem, I'm suspicious so I'll be crawling under and checking the wiring.


Thought I might pursue this low speed clunking some more. Anyone made any more progress with diagnosing? With us, the clunk is immediately apparently on a gravel road, but I suspect, since most dealer's are in population centers, getting one to drive to a gravel road to replicate the problem happens seldom or never.
 

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Does it sound like a Tupperware container with something in it at low speeds? Mine has had this problem. There was more than one fix for it too. The last one involving some sort of greasing. The rear shocks still have their own issues though.
2013 Titanium 2.0T AWD 85,000 miles
As part of proactive up-keep I changed rear shocks, both front bearings AND the FULL strut/spring/bearing (loaded strut) from Gabriel. Rears I did front work my Ford dealer did it (press in wheel bearings !!).
All was good then a few days after noticed the "Tupperware rattle" over standard roads.. and the noise comes and goes... it starts low then becomes louder ... then stops ... then starts again. Bumpy road does NOT amplify the noise as it appears on what most would say "smooth road surfaces".
I proceeded to replace BOTH front sway-bar end links.. still the noise. Replaced lower ball joint (which is sold as one with the lower control arm).... still the noise continues ..

Then thought a bad Front Passenger strut bearing... order NEW and installed tonight.... NOISE CONTINUES...

I know our gen has a long history of suspension woes. Will have the dealer use the "chassis ears" tomorrow.
At times I can feel the noise via brake pedal / steering wheel.

Any other suspect areas I should look ? It really sounds at if the top if the strut is rattling.

Odd the noise was NOT there before suspension was refreshed... now I have the noise...
what remains OLD is brakes / caliper hardwares and the CV-axle..nothing else makes sense for making noise...
And as mentioned the noise is not constant... it comes and goes...
 

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Found Source of Noise==> 2013 Titanium 2.0T AWD 85,000 miles
As part of proactive up-keep I changed rear shocks, both front bearings AND the FULL strut/spring/bearing (loaded strut) from Gabriel. Rears I did front work my Ford dealer did it (press in wheel bearings !!).
All was good then a few days after noticed the "Tupperware rattle" over standard roads.. and the noise comes and goes... it starts low then becomes louder ... then stops ... then starts again. Bumpy road does NOT amplify the noise as it appears on what most would say "smooth road surfaces".
I proceeded to replace BOTH front sway-bar end links.. still the noise. Replaced lower ball joint (which is sold as one with the lower control arm).... still the noise continues ..

Then thought a bad Front Passenger strut bearing... order NEW and installed tonight.... NOISE CONTINUES...

I know our gen has a long history of suspension woes. Will have the dealer use the "chassis ears" tomorrow.
At times I can feel the noise via brake pedal / steering wheel.

Any other suspect areas I should look ? It really sounds at if the top if the strut is rattling.

Odd the noise was NOT there before suspension was refreshed... now I have the noise...
what remains OLD is brakes / caliper hardwares and the CV-axle..nothing else makes sense for making noise...
And as mentioned the noise is not constant... it comes and goes...
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Got under Escape today and pulled splash shield. In addition to ALOT OF SUB-FRAME RUST (will do separate post) I found an inboard axle seal (hard rubber and metal trim ring) loose on the inboard to trans portion of the axle. Will repair / replace the seal Monday:
76369
 
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