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I saw this the other day while looking for some mods for the Escape and thought I'll try it out. I'm 50/50 on the looks. I bought it thinking it will be in line with the lights so that will tell you the attention to detail that I have in my life 
Anyway, here's the result:
Light1
Light2
Light3
Still busy cleaning up the installation and still deciding if I'm going to leave it on the fuse it's on or connects it to DRL. I kind of like it coming on before DRL as you can see in the video. The downside is when you turn the car off the lights are still on and the LED is not.. so it is either or at the moment. Let's start with the part. I bought it from Amazon but Aliexpress should be a bit cheaper if you are willing to wait.
Additional tools that you would need is:
Electric Tape
1-2m Thin Cable to extend the positive cable (if you decide to go into the fuse box in the cabin)
Hanger or something to pull/push the cable with
Micro 3 Fuse Tap
Initially, I tried it behind the rubber that seals the bonnet but unfortunately, Ford did a great job in sealing so there's about 5% of the light coming through. I then decided to try and install it ontop of the rubber seal of the bonnet. Seems to be working really well apart from the bonnet having to be dropped a little higher than before:
![Car Vehicle Grille Motor vehicle Automotive lighting]()
What I did was fold the LED in half and make a small mark to where the middle is as I didn't want to cut mine just yet. I then lined up the mark with the middle of the ford badge. The reason this is important is to have the knight rider effect even else it will be off-center. Once it was in the middle I just slowly moved it along the rubber trying to not go to far back or else the light will come out uneven.
Because the LED strip is a bit long I just folded in the sides like this:
![Automotive parking light Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle]()
![Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Automotive lighting Hood Car]()
No one will know... I then worked my magic with the cabling and ran the neg. to the battery and the positive into the cabin. I did read there's a cleaner way to get the cable into the cabin via the driver's side but that was just more work for such a tiny wire. So I ran it up the passenger side:
![Motor vehicle Hood Auto part Automotive exterior Trunk]()
![Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread Automotive exterior]()
There's some kind of foam. I used a hanger to pull the cable through but just use something small and be slow. I also pushed it from the driver side door through to the engine bay because there's more space on the engine bay side so you can push back with your hand so that there's no unwanted movement in the foam. This is from the driver side door when its open:
![Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior]()
From here there's a black plug that is easy to remove. Once again, I used a hanger to push through the cable making it easier to grab under the glove box. Next is to get to the fuse box behind the glove box. Under the passanger side feet area there's a cover with 2 clips:
![Trunk Bumper Vehicle door Automotive exterior Vehicle]()
I have a plastic tool for this but you can use anything. Just try and not scrape the plastic. Once the 2 clips are out (they just pull downwards), then tilt the cover a little down and pull it out. Once the top part is out there's just this plastic part that you can pull out. It's connected with 2 clips so just grab a corner at a time. Comes out easy.
![Rectangle Vehicle door Font Bumper Flooring]()
Once this is open you will see the fuse box on the right side. I found that all the Micro 2 fuses are either constant or on a relay (assuming its more a relay than constant.) The Micro 3 seems to be a better way to have a on/off option. So I used fuse 15 and 16 as per this image:
![Product Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern]()
According to my owners manual they are both spares. According the the site below it states 15 is in use so I'm not sure. But I have the LED light and my dashcam on here.
some additional information on the fuse box: Fuse Box Diagram Ford Escape (2020-2022..)
Hope this helps someone if they keen on doing it. It is really like a 15min job if you follow the above but please do your own homework on your fusebox. It should be the same but just in case it is different.
Anyway, here's the result:
Light1
Light2
Light3
Still busy cleaning up the installation and still deciding if I'm going to leave it on the fuse it's on or connects it to DRL. I kind of like it coming on before DRL as you can see in the video. The downside is when you turn the car off the lights are still on and the LED is not.. so it is either or at the moment. Let's start with the part. I bought it from Amazon but Aliexpress should be a bit cheaper if you are willing to wait.
Additional tools that you would need is:
Electric Tape
1-2m Thin Cable to extend the positive cable (if you decide to go into the fuse box in the cabin)
Hanger or something to pull/push the cable with
Micro 3 Fuse Tap
Initially, I tried it behind the rubber that seals the bonnet but unfortunately, Ford did a great job in sealing so there's about 5% of the light coming through. I then decided to try and install it ontop of the rubber seal of the bonnet. Seems to be working really well apart from the bonnet having to be dropped a little higher than before:
What I did was fold the LED in half and make a small mark to where the middle is as I didn't want to cut mine just yet. I then lined up the mark with the middle of the ford badge. The reason this is important is to have the knight rider effect even else it will be off-center. Once it was in the middle I just slowly moved it along the rubber trying to not go to far back or else the light will come out uneven.
Because the LED strip is a bit long I just folded in the sides like this:
No one will know...
I then worked my magic with the cabling and ran the neg. to the battery and the positive into the cabin. I did read there's a cleaner way to get the cable into the cabin via the driver's side but that was just more work for such a tiny wire. So I ran it up the passenger side:
There's some kind of foam. I used a hanger to pull the cable through but just use something small and be slow. I also pushed it from the driver side door through to the engine bay because there's more space on the engine bay side so you can push back with your hand so that there's no unwanted movement in the foam. This is from the driver side door when its open:
From here there's a black plug that is easy to remove. Once again, I used a hanger to push through the cable making it easier to grab under the glove box. Next is to get to the fuse box behind the glove box. Under the passanger side feet area there's a cover with 2 clips:
I have a plastic tool for this but you can use anything. Just try and not scrape the plastic. Once the 2 clips are out (they just pull downwards), then tilt the cover a little down and pull it out. Once the top part is out there's just this plastic part that you can pull out. It's connected with 2 clips so just grab a corner at a time. Comes out easy.
Once this is open you will see the fuse box on the right side. I found that all the Micro 2 fuses are either constant or on a relay (assuming its more a relay than constant.) The Micro 3 seems to be a better way to have a on/off option. So I used fuse 15 and 16 as per this image:
According to my owners manual they are both spares. According the the site below it states 15 is in use so I'm not sure. But I have the LED light and my dashcam on here.
some additional information on the fuse box: Fuse Box Diagram Ford Escape (2020-2022..)
Hope this helps someone if they keen on doing it. It is really like a 15min job if you follow the above but please do your own homework on your fusebox. It should be the same but just in case it is different.
