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LED license plate bulb

18K views 24 replies 16 participants last post by  Paul Schott 
#1 ·
After replacing the standard license plate bulbs with me LED style I find that they will not shut off completely as a slight dimming can be seen , just wondering if anyone has a simple solution to this . I realize that the power they use is almost meaningless .
 
#2 ·
I replaced just about all the lights on my '14 Titanium with Cool White LEDS and had no problems. I liked the look so much that I just changed all the interior bulbs in my wife's '03 Escape. In this application, I noticed the front interior light will glow immediately after shutting off. However after several minutes, they would go out. Let them sit for awhile and re-check them. All my bulbs were bought from Superbrite LEDS or Vleds.com. They cost a little more than E-Bay or Amazon, but maybe the quality is better.
 
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#3 ·
@Tela - Bought my 2013 (lease return) Titanium 2 weeks and replaced the license plate lights last week. I experienced the exact same issue you are having.


I am really hoping-assuming this is just a coincidence, but I went to start the car this evening and it will not turn over. From the sounds being made and lights dimming, it seems like the battery is about dead.


I will have to call the dealer back tomorrow as it's still under certified warranty. That being said, I thought I would throw this out there as 2 years for an OEM battery doesn't seem like a very long life span.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Depending on the LED lights chosen, as I have this issue with my outdoor light on my house. Its probably an easier answer than you may think. You can switch back to the OEM bulbs see if the problem still exists.

Otherwise your answer is probably that, the LED's lights is that even though its off, its still completing the circuit, and that "phantom" power in the circuit is still enough power to turn on the LED's.

I had to look up that situation for my home, since I had a LED bulb that pulls 1.5 watts when lit, but its housed in a light fixture with a dusk/dawn sensitivity sensor, so there's always power running too it, meaning that again phantom feed still had enough power to keep my light on all day long, which made me thought in the beginning my light fixture was defective.
Hope that helps.
@Tela @gee-dub
 
#5 ·
You've got a slight ground bleed through...



this isn't all that unusual on the cheaper LED bulbs/panels.
Easiest fix for this is to add a 12v 1A zener diode to the ground (you can also use two 5v if you can't find 12v).

Diodes are wired in series, so you basically cut the wire and splice the wire back with the diode in the middle. Diodes are polarity sensitive so test your lights before you close everything up and if they aren't working flip the diode so that the polarity band is on the other side.
 
#6 ·
LED license plate bulb glow


I'm revisiting a very old thread, as I just attempted to replace the W5W license plate bulbs with LEDs. The left side went just fine, 50:50 shot at getting the polarity correct and I won.

The right side...ominous glow. I checked old threads, and someone said to wait 10-12 minutes. When I lock the car using the key FOB, all the lights go out immediately, except for the glow from the right hand LED. I tried several different bulbs with no difference.
I'm surprised that there is any leakage current when all are supposed to be out when the car is locked. I'm guessing this is a result of having a CANBUS controlled car where the bulbs are monitored?
 
#7 ·
It's not a problem. I replaced mine last year and the bulbs glow very faintly for about 9-10 minutes. No battery issues, either. I don't even notice them anymore.

The only issue I did have was removing the factory bulbs. Broke 'em both and had to dig out the remains. I've never had a bulb so difficult to remove.
 
#9 ·
It's not a problem. I replaced mine last year and the bulbs glow very faintly for about 9-10 minutes. No battery issues, either. I don't even notice them anymore.
The only issue I did have was removing the factory bulbs. Broke 'em both and had to dig out the remains. I've never had a bulb so difficult to remove.
Yes they were a bit difficult to remove, but not as bad as expected, based on some of the reports here.
After removing the fixtures, and the the bulb socket from the fixtures, I did the duct tape around the bulb trick. I used a pair of cheapo gas pliers (aka 2 position slip-joint, "kitchen pliers") in the open position. Thank you Home Depot. It had just the right amount of grip on the duct tape without fear of crushing the glass envelopes.
I found it odd that only the right side glows, but then again, maybe if I had done the right side first with the incandescent bulb still in the left, maybe second one would glow?
I'll try the right side later today and see what happens after 15 minutes.
Right now, I've got the LED in the left fixture and the original incandescent in the left. There's a significant difference in brightness!
 
#8 ·
Yes, it's normal. Twelve minutes seems to be the time-out for the BCM lighting circuits and the LED's should turn off after that.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the info, I'll try it again and wait at least 12 minutes. Nice to have an alarm on the cell phone!
 
#12 ·
Get the LED bulb that say for "Can-Bus system" or say won't trip "bulb out error light", I replaced my license plate bulbs and puddle light for 2 years now and never has this dim glow issue.
 
#16 ·
FWIW, I haven't gotten any error using the LEDs in the license plate sockets.
Here's another thought:
I was using my laptop on AC power the other day, and after I unplugged the power supply "brick," its LED power indicator continued glowing for almost a minute after AC power was removed. It's only a guess that the brick's AC to DC smoothing filter, probably a simple RC or LC filter, took a minute to drain completely, and I wonder if there is something similar in the Ford's circuitry, a time constant effect, if you will.
I was unable to read any voltage on the Escape's license plate socket after power was removed using an old, conventional VOM, which makes me feel more comfortable that I am not draining my battery by using LEDs in this circuit.
 
#13 ·
I'm fairly certain the only difference with the "Can-Bus compatible" bulbs is they've added some surface mount resistors to the bulb (to draw more current.) So your BCM will still be operating the same (and supplying the low voltage/ current to the bulb circuit) it's just the resistors drop the voltage enough so the LED's won't light up during that time period.

So there's no reason to buy the dearer "Can-Bus" bulbs for the licence plate lights. I've tried "Can-Bus" LEDs for the rear indicator/ turn bulbs but they still caused an intermittent fault. The mirror turn/ indicator bulbs can be changed with no problems to ordinary LED bulbs. Edit: They'll glow, but once again nothing to worry about.
 
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#17 ·

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#14 ·
I now recall that the specific LED bulbs I got for my license plate were also can-bus bulbs and there is no ghosting. The ghosting I got was with sylvania zevo bulbs
 
#15 ·
Hi i am mkobar ,It is because of the residual energy in the circuit, or because the transsitor that gives the step is always with a minimum voltage, which for a conventional lamp does not give anything, but for an LED enough to stay on.

the Led does not save energy, it is the circuit that is placed, and since the ignition is not switched off, it is electronically, it has never been 100x100 disconnected.

buy leds that do not give error canbus, you have to buy the right lamp for each place of the car


Pictures: led light in reverse gear , external mirror, license plate and detail of led bulb of m atras they do not give error and they are reversible, canbus

best regards
 

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#19 ·
Question, How on earth do you remove the license plate lamp housings, not the lamp?? I tried with a small blade screw driver on the tabs in all directions and nothing loosens, almost like glued in there...Any tricks?? BTW removed the cargo lamp housing, thanks for all the info on that tricky one sided tab for that bugger...installed new Led 194 sub..Nice white brighter lamp now...no after glow there...
 
#20 ·
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#22 · (Edited)
OK. Finally got those license plate lamp housings out,, had to spray WD-40 around them and leave the lid up awhile, and then they came out..The bulbs were not as tough, sprayed the same around base, wiped bulb and used the Alabama Chrome tape and they came out fairly easy..Used 2 T10 3030 leds, yes they have after glow for a few minutes. then go out ,,since they have a 3 wire hook up...but no dash warning light..might get canbus ones which I can use for parking lamps too..Thanks for all the help and tips.....
 
#25 ·
Just did my license plate bulbs with LED's. The right one stays on dimly for about 10 minutes then shuts off. Thank everyone for the tip on using duct tape to remove the glass bulb. I did one before and replaced it with the incandescent original type. Had to dig it out with a screwdriver. What a PITA! I guess Ford wanted to prevent them from falling out from the constant closing of the hatch. The LED's are much brighter. (Is this really a good idea, it makes it easier for the traffic cameras to get a good pic. LOL) ;)
 
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