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I have a 2017 Ford Escape, (with the Eco-boost turbo), and recently, starting about 50,000 to 54,000 miles (and after being at the dealer several times within, due to various "cylinder misfire" codes) they found coolant in the cylinders, and Ford sent the dealer a new long block to swap out. (Have the extended warranty, 100,000 miles, etc., thank goodness!) So, great, they called and said she's ready to go! (been missing my Escape, got all my stuff in there, and it's rather comfortable)

Anyway, I picked it up yesterday, (I have put maybe 15-20 miles on her so far) and this morning, I'm putting my gear back in the vehicle, and I started really going through things. All seemed well (A little burn smell from coolant, etc., to be expected I guess) So I went to turn the A/C on. Regular air blowing (it was mid 70's today) So I manually turned the A/C all the way down to max, fan wide open, still regular air, no A/C. I had my wife turn the A/C on and off, so I could hear if the compressor was clicking on and off, ...Nope.

So the dealership closed early today in preparation for Christmas (and rightly so) and I plan to be back Thursday morning at the dealership to see what's up.

So my questions are; (1) Any idea what may have went wrong? And (2) I will probably want to wait with it while it's repaired. Would it be a good idea t have someone prepared to pick me up (do y'all think it may be an all-day ordeal?)

Keep in mind, the A/C worked just fine before it went in for repairs. I didn't think to check it while I was picking it up, regardless, it isn' working now.

P.S., had the transmission fluid changed (Not "power flushed) Gotta love the fact there's -no- dipstick to check the tranny fluid) The dealer person told me that the filter in the transmission wasn't designed to be removed. I am not doubting their word, I just find that a little difficult to believe Ford would design it that way.

(And I tried to get them to install an auxiliary transmission cooler, they were insistent I had no need for it, wasting my money, etc. etc. (I do a lot of idling in the S/E heat in the summer, and want it to get too hot and damage the transmission and / or fluid.)

Many thanks if you've read this far, and most appreciated if someone could shed some light in this for me.

And Merry Christmas!
 

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It's really hard to say what the AC issue may be, there is a lot of work involved in changing an engine. Could be something as simple as a belt a plug not fully seated, lack of refrigerant, a hose damaged. Personally I think I would drop it off and give them sufficient time to properly diagnose and repair the problem. Most components on these cars are to say the least a little difficult to get to. Be patient and I'm sure they will fix it for you.
 

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It's just so frustrating! I just got her back after being in the shop for over a month (close to 5 weeks) and now I have to turn her in again.... I work out of that vehicle, and I can't swap out everything I need all the time.

Hopefully it's something simple. I will most likely drive myself there, and let them know I am prepared to wait, but if they honestly need to keep it through the day to repair it, then I'll have someone on standby to come get me.

I am supposed to be going on about a 400 mile work trip in it Friday...

Merry Christmas!
 

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I know it's frustrating
and understand your needing it for work, they may have been rushing to finish it for the holidays. Keep a good mind set and good luck, I hope it is something very simple.
 
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Hello! Sorry for the absence, but wanted to leave an update....

So it was cold outside (and inside), and the guy who replaced the motor honestly forgot to refill the A/C.

So they vacuumed it down, recharged it, tested for leaks, and she is all better again! (Said the "new" freon is really expensive. Give me the old stuff any day...)

I am a little "gun-shy" with her now, been about 500 + miles since the motor was replaced, when can I "get on her" some, to make sure she will still scoot?
 

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Hello! Sorry for the absence, but wanted to leave an update....

So it was cold outside (and inside), and the guy who replaced the motor honestly forgot to refill the A/C.

So they vacuumed it down, recharged it, tested for leaks, and she is all better again! (Said the "new" freon is really expensive. Give me the old stuff any day...)

I am a little "gun-shy" with her now, been about 500 + miles since the motor was replaced, when can I "get on her" some, to make sure she will still scoot?
If I was you, I'd baby that baby for at least 2k miles,, and make sure you change the oil with full syn..twice a year,,no matter the mileage....
 

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Interestingly enough, when I asked my Ford dealer about Synthetic, they kind of brushed it off, and acted like I was wasting my money, that Ford recommends the Synthetic blend. (While they promoted the various BG treatments they offered)
 

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I really don't see the need for synthetic oil in these cars, I haven't read one incident of spun bearings or rods poking out the side of the bkock bad cams or oil related wear. The block seems to be the issue and no amount of synthetic oil will help that. Also I would follow the direction as far as brake in that the dealer gave you. If you want synthetic oil later I would at least not start until the new engine has 5,000 mile or so. As far as BG products I have no use for addaditives, that is snake oil to make a few bucks on the oil change they are giving away.
 

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Interestingly enough, when I asked my Ford dealer about Synthetic, they kind of brushed it off, and acted like I was wasting my money, that Ford recommends the Synthetic blend. (While they promoted the various BG treatments they offered)
Ask them about LSPI and see if they give you a blank look. It's Low Speed Pre Ignition and can be a big problem with modern boosted engines. There is strong evidence that the engine oil quality has a major impact on the likelihood of it occurring. Resolving Low-Speed Pre-Ignition | MOTOR near the end of that article.

I am a little "gun-shy" with her now, been about 500 + miles since the motor was replaced, when can I "get on her" some, to make sure she will still scoot?
"Babying" a new engine isn't a good idea. How to Break-In An Engine
 

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I really don't see the need for synthetic oil in these cars,
It's all about turbo bearing life. Synthetics have a higher coking temperature, the temperature at which the oil starts turning to sludge. Thermal stability of the oil is more important in turbocharged engines, in which the oil sees higher temperatures.
You can search on turbocharger oil coking and see the severe damage ($$$$) that oil breakdown can cause.
 
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