Excuse the Title, but that's what happened yesterday. After a couple of hundred miles trip we stopped for a sandwich to take home. My wife went in, I parked away from the building, but when a close up space became available I decided to take it. When I pushed the start button with my foot pressing the brake pedal, nothing happened. No dash lights either. I tried several times, contemplating how to get a friend to come take us to our house. It was a hot day and the A/C does not work and I did not want my wife to be further stuck in the heat. And then without warning after a couple of minutes everything came on "magically", engine started, but on the 4 mile trip home I felt a slight engine miss, the engine temp guage did not work. At home when I killed the engine i re-started it, no problem, and temp guage again worked. (I have just replaced the cluster, 2nd time for the IPC). Door unlock sensor was functioning well for last week or so until this, now doesn't and locking the door takes multiple attempts as it locks and immediately unlocks. Auto start/stop hasn't worked for a year plus, Negative battery cable is super clean, but I wonder about the electronics at the battery post. '17 Titanium Any ideas?
No "Nothing," Then Magic
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This should be in the 3G not the 4G.....
How old is the battery?
What does the pigtail for the BMS look like?
My personal bet based on the description is that one or more of the high current fuses in the front battery compartment is cracked.
How old is the battery?
What does the pigtail for the BMS look like?
My personal bet based on the description is that one or more of the high current fuses in the front battery compartment is cracked.
Battery is less than a year old. Pigtail is good. I took it out and examined recently. Tks for fuse suggestion. I've never heard of that happening but I'll check that out. There's always something electronically wrong on the car so if that's a possibility it could be the root of the nightmare this car has been.
2015 Escape intermittent failure to respond
Monday July 25th. Stopped running while idle in front of Barnes and Nobles. Symptoms of an overheat. No warning lights or codes thrown. Extremely hot under the hood. Even air filter box. No electrical response or sound when trying to start it. Coolant level=Great. Fogured Id give it some time so...
www.fordescape.org
Replaced Battery - Now it Won't Start - 2016 Escape...
Hi there! This is my first post here after having been a lurker for a while. So, first of all, let me give you guys the rundown on what my wife's Escape has been doing the last couple of weeks (besides sitting mostly because of the issues below). About two weeks ago my wife sat in line for...
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2015 Ford Escape having intermittent starting problems
2015 Escape 73.5k miles Sorry for the wall of text.. About a month ago, i went to get in my escape and it would not unlock with my remote key, so i unlocked it manually. Then it wouldnt start, but all my dash lights were working. After the dashlights came on, the remote key worked to...
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2015 Escape Titanium Won’t start. HELP!
A little backstory.. My wife drives about 25 miles into town without any indicator/ warnings on the dash. Comes out of the store to her car that won’t start. And no display on dash other than the initial blue screen and mileage display. After that, the screen goes black. Doesn’t even crank when...
www.fordescape.org
The BMS was reset via the "8 hr lock and leave alone" suggested on an instruction post here about replacing the battery. At that point I also was able to reset the battery with Forscan but I cannot use that anymore since license is required and I could not get the license to load into the latest edition, even after buying the EX connector.
The '8 hour lock and leave alone' method does not reset the BMS contrary to what the owner's manual and others may say. All that does is familiarise the new battery with the technology etc.
The only way to reset the BMS so as to put the battery days in service back to zero enabling the system to recognize the new battery and charge it accordingly is by Forscan or a scan tool used by Ford or battery shops. I am not sure whether you meant you actually reset the BMS with Forscan in your last post.
If this was not done it may explain some or all of the issues you are experiencing as the system still 'thinks' it is dealing with the old battery causing some things to fail accordingly, especially the stop/start 'feature'.
I am not saying this is definitely the case but it might be worth getting the BMS reset properly (if not done) before going further.
Yes, I did reset the battery with Forscan when I had an earlier edition, but I've also done the "charge and leave it alone 8 hours"because of the times the battery went dead overnight. There were intermittent times of total battery depletion until I put all FOBs out of range and turned off Bluetooth and wifi. I don't know if it was waking up at night and trying to connect or if that had any effect but it worked for several months. I don't want to sell to someone else who'll have the same headaches so I'll keep it until the solutions can be found, but I'm about to buy an old Toyota for dependability and long trips.
IIRC that time period allows the BMS to calculate the SOC of the battery more accurately. The current draw off the battery needs to be below a certain level for that to work too. It doesn't let the BMS know how old the battery is- required so it can take the battery's age into consideration with it's smart charging.
OK Guys. After resting 8 hours as well as my doing the YouTube version of BMS resetting, the stop/start worked today and the door lock opened, the rear hatch closed (hadn't mentioned that), the driver seat didn't try to automatially push me into the engine (hadn't mentioned that) and the battery had not discharged. I didn't notice anything else amiss. I don't know which cure worked but it's all good today. Maybe it will last a bit. Thanks.
And now an edit: It did last "a bit"-- one day to be exact. The Stop/Start no longer works. I don't really care about that so much, but trying to lock the car a day later is almost impossible. Like the stop/start this is a lock/unlock. It unlocks as soon as you lock it with any one of the three ways to lock it. Repeat it enough times and it stays locked but I have to remember to check a back door to see if when I walk away it is locked. As in the link cyearsin1 gave below all of my issues are evidently well known to other 2017 Escape owners.
And now an edit: It did last "a bit"-- one day to be exact. The Stop/Start no longer works. I don't really care about that so much, but trying to lock the car a day later is almost impossible. Like the stop/start this is a lock/unlock. It unlocks as soon as you lock it with any one of the three ways to lock it. Repeat it enough times and it stays locked but I have to remember to check a back door to see if when I walk away it is locked. As in the link cyearsin1 gave below all of my issues are evidently well known to other 2017 Escape owners.
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cyearsin1, Thanks for the link. Just had a short time to glance at it so far, but I understand why this car should never have been on the market. It's been a disaster. When it's good, it's very good. Problem is that being good is seldom achieved. I'm also one of those who will avoid the blue oval. I had a Merc GM that, after I replaced all the dumb things the blue oval engineers thought were good, it was a great car. But those things would have cost me 6-8k if I'd had to pay to have them done. At 200k I gave it to my grandson and of course it was a grandpa car so as soon as he could he "gave" to a single mother so she could go to work in it...and they still brag on it. But it's almost 20 years old.
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