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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought the car like this, previous owner may well be on this site. I have checked and there is a 2.5 amp draw, after the car shuts down. varies slightly with different modules and their switches cycling. but never less then 2 amps. During troubleshooting with a snap on scanner, I noticed the "state" of the wipers are always "wipe", under the wiper park switch state data. The wipers work fine. Does this data not apply to the S model, no turbo 2013. Any ideas on the parasitic drain? This was bought by me broken, in this condition, and I paid accordingly, so not
complaining, just want to figure it out.

Also, when the connector circled in white, in picture below, is removed the current draw drops all the way to 0 (less than 50ma)
Circuit component Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Engineering Hardware programmer
 

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This may sound like a daft question but do you not know what the white circle item is or what it feeds as surely that is the circuit where your problem is.
 

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Thx yes, first step. There was no significant amp drop from any fuse removed.
Have you done it in the engine bay fuse box?
 

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Also, you do know that some circuits are designed to stay on for a period of time after the car has been locked?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have done both fuse panels. I do not know what that connector goes to.

Fwiw, this car was in a fender bender, and the airbag light is on. Faults for circuit open in driver's seat. I have not researched that yet.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also, you do know that some circuits are designed to stay on for a period of time after the car has been locked?
It's dead by morning. I stayed in the car and set the locks and alarm. The amp draw never went down. Over 30 minutes. I have seen YT videos of the cluster going crazy on these, mine is not.
 

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I'd say that you've got a ground from the fender bender somewhere on the driver's side.
Where did it take the hit?
You also might want to get a copy of ForScan since the 2013-2019 Escape used central configuration (unlike most Ford models).
The front fuse box pictured is the front BCM, the rear BCM is in the cargo area.
 

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I have done both fuse panels.
As mentioned there are three. I'd be starting with the engine bay fuse box as that is where the power branches off to other circuits in the vehicle.

If you can get hold of one, an infrared camera could be of great assistance (something like the FLIR One Pro.) They can show subtle heat differences caused by the current flow. Have a search on Youtube and you'll see how it's done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Apparently the S models only have the 2 fuse panels with the small fuses. On my car the one in the back does not exist. No access to a infrared camera of any kind, but I am aware of the procedure. I'll keep fighting it for now. Thx
 
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