Well guys, I’m at square 1. Drove 2 190 mile legs to/from daughters house snd the car was flawless. 3 hrs after getting home I drove 5 miles and the engine miss was terrible. Too tired to check anything but next morning battery was at 12.19. Charged it and disassembled the FOB as it was honking horn just moving it (couple of loose metal contacters) and checked the car middle of today and voltage was 12.18. So FOB evidently wasn’t the battery drain culprit. I’ll write again probably only if I find the culprit. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Parasitic drain/draw
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Still not absolutely sure, but hoping. I had about decided this battery drain might be coming from a NEW battery that might test ok but not be strong amp wise. So as a final hope I pulled the battery and was surprised to see it was not an AGM. Just took the parts guy's word for it being the right battery, so took it back and they apologized. Said it was the correct battery for my car if it did not have start stop, and the guy who sold it to me didn't ask that question. The one for my car is in their computer as an AGM. BUT THEN THERE IS THIS. Reading online a list of things you need to know about AGM batteries is that the alternator on these newer cars will not charge a non-AGM battery to full charge--only to about 80%, but WILL charge an AGM to (or almost to) full charge. So they swapped batteries with me and I have had it on a charger for a few hours as it had sat in their stock for probably 7-8 months and was down to about 60%. Hopefully for me the age on the sticker (11/20) will not affect it's performance. I've also checked the drain again and it is within normal range. My instrument only goes to two decimals and it shows .020 after 30 min or so, bounces to .030 for a split second and back, so probably is .025, The AGM can handle that easily, but the other battery, never being re-charged by the alternator to full charge (I had charged it fully at times and it lasted a couple of days) could not. We'll see.
That's strange as I have the same year Escape but it still has the original Ford EFB 75A stop/start battery in it from new. I doubt they would put a non AGM battery in it in the factory if the alternator could not charge it fully.
I have never had any dramas with the car in my 3 year ownership and the battery is still fine and must be fully charged or over 80% charged or the stop/start feature would not function.
Nowadays because the Escape is used very little in Covid times I now just keep it connected to a trickle charger anyway as any battery would lose a degree of charge if left for many days or weeks at a time or the car only used for short trips.
In saying that I will replace it with an AGM battery when it fails due to recommendations here.
I have never had any dramas with the car in my 3 year ownership and the battery is still fine and must be fully charged or over 80% charged or the stop/start feature would not function.
Nowadays because the Escape is used very little in Covid times I now just keep it connected to a trickle charger anyway as any battery would lose a degree of charge if left for many days or weeks at a time or the car only used for short trips.
In saying that I will replace it with an AGM battery when it fails due to recommendations here.
I must repeat that I have not proved this solution yet , and as yet have not done the BMS ForScan reset since my laptop crashed. Be sure and check all the details. I haven’t checked to see if your SE has the same requirements as my Titanium…and I also need to check if all that info I read about AGM BATTERIES is verifiable, and it may be that Aussie cars have different requirements. I’m just using that info in hopes of having found my solution. Thanks for your input.
I understand....as you indicate it looks like the alternator in the Escape with stop/start will just not gel with a non S/S battery thus not fully charging it. From what I understand from research the BMS will not recognize a non stop/start battery properly which severely reduces that battery's life and function.
It appears the SE model there is similar to what we call the Trend model (mid range) here in Oz and I would imagine your Titanium model is virtually the same as the Titanium here.
From your previous comments though it certainly sounds as though you have found the solution to your problems as the replacement of the battery with the proper AGM stop/start unit should certainly make a difference in my view..
It appears the SE model there is similar to what we call the Trend model (mid range) here in Oz and I would imagine your Titanium model is virtually the same as the Titanium here.
From your previous comments though it certainly sounds as though you have found the solution to your problems as the replacement of the battery with the proper AGM stop/start unit should certainly make a difference in my view..
I don't know how to reference a forum topic I ran across except to copy the title and paste here:
Does the 2017 FE 2.0 have Ford Regenerative Charging?
This article may lead to the solution of the battery discharge. Phoneman91 and Centex have a discussion of Ford's intentional programming of the charging system to let the battery voltage drop to 80% charge...down to 12.1 to 12.5. I don't want to misstate anything here so I'd encourage anyone to look up that topic. IMHO It's a reason NOT to purchase a Ford for anyone who just uses the vehicle to run to the store, short trips back and forth in which the charging system does not charge at high rates. This is precisely why I bought my Escape for my wife because (1) she was tired of the large size of the Suburban, parking, maneuvering etc in this town and (2) hopefully for it to be a reliable vehicle should "I go and she remain." I'm a few years ahead of her but we're both 57 years into this marriage...so you can guess where we are. So on both reasons for the purchase it is a fail. Mine does not run smoothly, jerks badly and gives a cam sensor code, when the battery voltage drops that low. I can tell the battery voltage dropped because touch unlock does not work on the front doors. The missing and jerking will continue as long as the engine is left running, so I have learned to pull off the road, kill the engine, restart it and it runs fine (I assume because the alternator charged it enough.) It's a bit like a pain you live through if there's no cure.
Does the 2017 FE 2.0 have Ford Regenerative Charging?
This article may lead to the solution of the battery discharge. Phoneman91 and Centex have a discussion of Ford's intentional programming of the charging system to let the battery voltage drop to 80% charge...down to 12.1 to 12.5. I don't want to misstate anything here so I'd encourage anyone to look up that topic. IMHO It's a reason NOT to purchase a Ford for anyone who just uses the vehicle to run to the store, short trips back and forth in which the charging system does not charge at high rates. This is precisely why I bought my Escape for my wife because (1) she was tired of the large size of the Suburban, parking, maneuvering etc in this town and (2) hopefully for it to be a reliable vehicle should "I go and she remain." I'm a few years ahead of her but we're both 57 years into this marriage...so you can guess where we are. So on both reasons for the purchase it is a fail. Mine does not run smoothly, jerks badly and gives a cam sensor code, when the battery voltage drops that low. I can tell the battery voltage dropped because touch unlock does not work on the front doors. The missing and jerking will continue as long as the engine is left running, so I have learned to pull off the road, kill the engine, restart it and it runs fine (I assume because the alternator charged it enough.) It's a bit like a pain you live through if there's no cure.
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I've noticed "battery charging" issues on several posts in our forum. I'm just a retired farmer with a general knowlege of mechanical things, definatly not a mechanic.
That being said, I've only had one issue related to charging in my FE. After owning it for 2 months, I was parked, listening to the radio and a message popped up on the screen that said something like, " Turn off engine to save power"?. I did as instructed and the car was able to be started again to get me home. The next morning the car wouldn't start in the garage. Ford roadside assist sent out a guy to boost it. The dealership installed a new battery and I've never had an issue since.
To be clear, my 2017 1.5L only has 35K kms on it so you can see, we do a ton of short trips, probably 90% of the mileage is less than 20 kms. Also, I've never had to hook a charger/maintainer on this car.
I've read a lot on FE's and I've seen several articles that stated that, if the battery state of charge is not adequate, it can cause many problems not necessarily related to the battery/charging system.
I'm sorry that I don't have a solution for this "charging" issue. If this was a problem I was experiencing, I'd certainly exhaust all avenues available to me to make SURE my battery was 100%. I base this only by my own personal experience. Good luck. Live long and prosper.
That being said, I've only had one issue related to charging in my FE. After owning it for 2 months, I was parked, listening to the radio and a message popped up on the screen that said something like, " Turn off engine to save power"?. I did as instructed and the car was able to be started again to get me home. The next morning the car wouldn't start in the garage. Ford roadside assist sent out a guy to boost it. The dealership installed a new battery and I've never had an issue since.
To be clear, my 2017 1.5L only has 35K kms on it so you can see, we do a ton of short trips, probably 90% of the mileage is less than 20 kms. Also, I've never had to hook a charger/maintainer on this car.
I've read a lot on FE's and I've seen several articles that stated that, if the battery state of charge is not adequate, it can cause many problems not necessarily related to the battery/charging system.
I'm sorry that I don't have a solution for this "charging" issue. If this was a problem I was experiencing, I'd certainly exhaust all avenues available to me to make SURE my battery was 100%. I base this only by my own personal experience. Good luck. Live long and prosper.
Thanks for the well-wishes, MoneyPit1946. A new AGM didn't help me. My problems with my '17 FE 2.0L have just about driven me nuts trying to figure them out but I'm through trying to solve them, so I'll try a dedicated battery charger/maintainer. I've left undone way too many other things. I have a 27 yr old PU and a 16 yr old Suburban that are reliable with a combined half milliion miles on them. I'm not rich by any means but I can just park it and walk off. My time here is limited and I want to use it on matters that matter long after I'm not around. Blessings to all who have chimed in trying to help.
That is what I am now doing due to only doing short trips and sometimes not driving for a week. I have a trickle charger connected all the time to keep the battery topped up and only disconnect it when going for a drive.
The one I have and can recommend is the CTEK MXS 5.0 if you do not already have one. It won't overcharge the battery and you can safely leave it connected indefinitely.
I think you can buy them in the US as someone here mentioned earlier that they had one.
Good luck..
Does this sound like anyone else's problem. My '17 Titanium never ever, no matter what, has a morning battery voltage of more than 12.4, and it never charges up to more than 12.6 even after driving it 200 or more miles. If it is 12.4 or 12.6 or so at night it's 12.4 the next morning. Parasitic drain, at least when I've checked it numerous times is NO issue now--roughly .024. Last night the voltage was 12.6 and 12 hours later this morning it was 12.3. New AGM battery roughly 2 months ago. I have done the ForScan reset of the BMS, and I have done the owner's manual version (8 hr rest etc) after charging the battery (+ post and chassis ground), thinking maybe the BMS would recognize the higher voltage. Does the BMS intentionally drain the battery to a pre-set voltage (in this case where battery damage begins due to sulfation and engine miss occurs due to insufficient volts)? Can that pre-set number be changed, if it exists? Is the problem in some BMS module, or in the ground battery cable/sensor. All connections tight and clean, even the negative chassis ground that takes extra effort to get it tight. I know several of you have offered help, and I've read most of others' posts about BMS problems, but this car has demons, and it just doesn't make any sense to have a car with a perfectly good alternator that has to have a battery charger on it every day.
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I may have responded to your earlier posts on same issue. Have you read Ford Workshop Manual for your MY? If you have not, I would suggest you do so. A general read suggests that the charging algorithms in the BCM do not charge the battery as perhaps you are historically used to. To answer your questions about charging, my recollection is that the answer is no.
Does the car start and run ok? If so that drain overnight might be normal battery behaviour.
Have you tried leaving the car for a few days without the charger to see if the battery voltage drops even further than 12.3 or whatever?
My car still has the original 4 year old EFB battery but I put a trickle charger on it simply because I may not use the car for a few days or a week and if I don't do this I know it has lost a little charge as the stop/start system stops working.
After returning from a trip I let the engine cool for a couple of hours before reattaching the charger and it may take two hours or so to reach full charge due to the testing procedure these chargers tend to go through.
I realize that in your case you have a near new AGM battery but if it is holding charge up to 12.3 volts perhaps it will not drop lower especially if you are using your car daily without problems.
ForScan is the best way to see what's going on - then you can directly read the SOC figure the BCM has calculated. Using voltages to determine the SOC can give false readings. Also check the charging voltage while you're driving and see what voltage/ charge current ForScan says you're getting fed into the battery.
Thanks, guys. Answer 1: I have not read the workshop manual. Don’t currently have access. Answer 2: sometimes it runs good, especially if I let it charge a little before driving and baby it for a couple of miles. Other times I can detect the lower charge when the door handle does not unlock it, and it will then miss badly on acceleration so I try to avoid that for those first two miles which gets me into town. When it sets a DTC it’s always cam sensor. I charged it to 13 volts yesterday, and 24 hrs later it’s down to 12.5. I’m thinking of just leaving it alone for a few days and see how low it goes. Wife is ill and we have another car so I’m willing to try anything.
Your charger should be charging the battery up to around 14.2 to 14.4 Volts, it should hold the battery at that voltage for a period of time (a couple of hours) and then drop it back to a "float voltage" of around 13.6V.
It could be worthwhile (given the issues you've got) buying a Bluetooth battery monitor. They hook up across the battery and log the voltage - so you can get a voltage vs time graph which shows you what is happening - whether it be charging the battery, leaving it sitting or driving. In Australia they cost around AUS$50 and there's an app that you run on your phone. (Something like this https://www.amazon.com/QUICKLYNKS-Battery-Monitor-Bluetooth-Device/dp/B01MT4583U/ ) You don't need your phone connected all the time as the monitor stores the voltage data and downloads it to your phone when you next open the app.
It could be worthwhile (given the issues you've got) buying a Bluetooth battery monitor. They hook up across the battery and log the voltage - so you can get a voltage vs time graph which shows you what is happening - whether it be charging the battery, leaving it sitting or driving. In Australia they cost around AUS$50 and there's an app that you run on your phone. (Something like this https://www.amazon.com/QUICKLYNKS-Battery-Monitor-Bluetooth-Device/dp/B01MT4583U/ ) You don't need your phone connected all the time as the monitor stores the voltage data and downloads it to your phone when you next open the app.
At that Amazon link there’s a BM2 for $29.99 US and BA101 for $54.99.(just ordered a BM300)..Interestingly, I haven’t driven the Escape now in over 2 days after charging the battery to 13 volts (charger had showed it was full at 12.6 but I left it on to 13). Today after a 12.45 reading 24 hours earlier it was 12.6. I have checked it before after driving it and while it’s still running at idle and it registers in the low 13s.
If it's a smart charger (three stages or more) then it would be safe to leave it connect permanently when you're not driving it. Perhaps give that a try as your battery may not be fully charging.
I've got a spare Bluetooth battery monitor (basically the same as what I've linked to on Amazon) so I might install it on my Kuga. It will be interesting to see what actually happens (charging voltage wise) while driving.
(I'll also split some of these charging related posts into their own thread- given we're in a thread on resetting the battery monitor system.)
I've got a spare Bluetooth battery monitor (basically the same as what I've linked to on Amazon) so I might install it on my Kuga. It will be interesting to see what actually happens (charging voltage wise) while driving.
(I'll also split some of these charging related posts into their own thread- given we're in a thread on resetting the battery monitor system.)
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I would only worry about your battery when it fails to start the car. 12.3 volts would be normal on an Escape/Kuga that has BMS and stop/start. You could bench charge your battery to 13+ volts and I guarantee you within a short time of driving the voltage will be considerably less as it will have shed some of that voltage elsewhere because that is what it is designed to do.
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Recently the wife's car (2013 Ford Escape) died just a few hours after being off. The battery had been changed fairly recently (2 years prior), so I put it on a charge overnight and noticed when I came out the next morning it was still drawing 5ish amps off the charger which was unexpected after have sitting on the charge for 12+ hours. Pulled the charger off and ran a meter across the terminals and got upper end of 12v. She was able to start it and drive that day, but after just a few hours of it sitting again it died on her leaving it unable to start.
At this point went ahead and got a new battery, installed it and reset the BMS. Same thing started up only a couple times then after a few+ hours of being off it died. So, I started scouring the web for the most common drain issues hoping to save myself some time and I checked the most common things I ran across (Rear wiper motor, glove box light, instrument cluster, brake lights, and all interior lights), but still no luck on any of those, they all seemed to be fine.
Next thing I did was get access to all the fuse boxes (engine, passenger, and trunk), and then let the car sit for a while to fully shut down its systems (30+min I waited). Hooked up an ammeter and had a 5 amp draw while it was off, started pulling fuses one by one to see if I could isolate the circuit causing the draw. No fuse i pulled seemed to show any change, and it maintained a 4-5 amp draw the entire time.
Then I opened up the high current fuse box (fwd of the battery box) and started playing with those to figure out where it was coming from. I was able to get it isolated down to MEGA 4 50 Body Control Module (see below) wire, with this disconnected i was under 1 amp draw. This sent me back to the BCM, but this time I fully disconnected the BCM hoping this would be the be the right area and the current would drop down, but it remained at 4-5 Amps with the BCM electrically disconnected.
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I haven't found a wire diagram for MEGA 4 yet that would help me call the wiring good or bad, so I am out of ideas at the moment. Hoping someone has some good direction for me to go since there's not a lot of resolution on some of the similar posts. If you need clarification on anything or something I said doesn't make sense let me know and ill be glad to clarify.
At this point went ahead and got a new battery, installed it and reset the BMS. Same thing started up only a couple times then after a few+ hours of being off it died. So, I started scouring the web for the most common drain issues hoping to save myself some time and I checked the most common things I ran across (Rear wiper motor, glove box light, instrument cluster, brake lights, and all interior lights), but still no luck on any of those, they all seemed to be fine.
Next thing I did was get access to all the fuse boxes (engine, passenger, and trunk), and then let the car sit for a while to fully shut down its systems (30+min I waited). Hooked up an ammeter and had a 5 amp draw while it was off, started pulling fuses one by one to see if I could isolate the circuit causing the draw. No fuse i pulled seemed to show any change, and it maintained a 4-5 amp draw the entire time.
Then I opened up the high current fuse box (fwd of the battery box) and started playing with those to figure out where it was coming from. I was able to get it isolated down to MEGA 4 50 Body Control Module (see below) wire, with this disconnected i was under 1 amp draw. This sent me back to the BCM, but this time I fully disconnected the BCM hoping this would be the be the right area and the current would drop down, but it remained at 4-5 Amps with the BCM electrically disconnected.
I haven't found a wire diagram for MEGA 4 yet that would help me call the wiring good or bad, so I am out of ideas at the moment. Hoping someone has some good direction for me to go since there's not a lot of resolution on some of the similar posts. If you need clarification on anything or something I said doesn't make sense let me know and ill be glad to clarify.
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