[murcod]

I was able to get it isolated down to MEGA 4 50 Body Control Module (see below) wire, with this disconnected i was under 1 amp draw.

I've got the 2013 model wiring diagrams and it shows Mega Fuse F4 as going straight to the BCM on plug C2280G pin 2, Mega Fuse F9 also is shown going straight to it.

I'm wondering - you disconnected all the BCM connectors on the side where the fuses are? C2280G is the plug directly above the fuses on the BCM with only two large gauge wires going in. Disconnecting that should have the same effect as pulling Mega Fuse F4 and F9. (Unless there's details missing on the wiring diagram?)

Are both your battery terminals and the BMS sensor wires in good condition with no corrosion?

 

[murcod]

F41 in the engine bay Battery Junction Box is also listed as supplying the BCM (with "F85,F86" listed after the "BCM"), I'm guessing that's to signify those fuses on the BCM are supplied by F41. Perhaps try pulling that with the Mega Fuses fitted and see what happens.

 

[murcod]

F22 is also connected to the BCM via the BMS current sensor.

 

[BNault]

I've got the 2013 model wiring diagrams and it shows Mega Fuse F4 as going straight to the BCM on plug C2280G pin 2, Mega Fuse F9 also is shown going straight to it.

I'm wondering - you disconnected all the BCM connectors on the side where the fuses are? C2280G is the plug directly above the fuses on the BCM with only two large gauge wires going in. Disconnecting that should have the same effect as pulling Mega Fuse F4 and F9. (Unless there's details missing on the wiring diagram?)

Are both your battery terminals and the BMS sensor wires in good condition with no corrosion?

Man, if only I held off on buying that 72hr access to the wiring diagrams literally 15 minutes you woulda saved me $20. Yes, I not only disconnected that center connector you are referencing with the red and yellow going in (shot both at 12v), but I also disconnected every single connector to be sure since I didn't have that diagram yet. I still had that 4-5 amp draw. It only goes away when disconnecting at the Mega Fuse F4 location. Side note if i remember right I seen the remote start receiver spliced off that red wire before it got to the BCM, and I didn't see that in the diagrams (it was disconnected same time I did the BCM).

Terminals and BMS connections are in good condition.

After looking at the diagrams and you backing it up, ima break into it tomorrow morning and disconnect everything so I can verify F4-BCM to ground is good and not shorted out. Honestly I hope it is shorted to ground and I just splice and piggy back a wire in. This is quite an annoying problem.

F41 in the engine bay Battery Junction Box is also listed as supplying the BCM (with "F85,F86" listed after the "BCM"), I'm guessing that's to signify those fuses on the BCM are supplied by F41. Perhaps try pulling that with the Mega Fuses fitted and see what happens.

Once I found out F4 was for the BCM i looked that up and did pull F41 with no change, but like I mentioned before i pulled every single fuse in all 3 spots prior to getting in the MEGA fuse area.

 

[murcod]

Also try pulling F23 in engine bay Battery Junction box (with the Mega Fuses installed), that supplies power to the Ignition and Acc Power Delay relays, which are earthed out by the BCM to switch them on.
F41 is also supplying power to the BCM.

 

[murcod]

The BCM contains quite a few relays inside it- so possibly one is stuck closed?

Side note if i remember right I seen the remote start receiver spliced off that red wire before it got to the BCM, and I didn't see that in the diagrams (it was disconnected same time I did the BCM).

So that's an aftermarket/ dealer fitted accessory that's been added?

 

[BNault]

The BCM contains quite a few relays inside it- so possibly one is stuck closed?



So that's an aftermarket/ dealer fitted accessory that's been added?

Repeated the F4/BCM isolation (Only disconnected main power into BCM this time instead of everything). this morning and tried those two fuses (F23 & F41), and to my surprise I had the 4-5 amp draw. Had me doubting what I had done/seen the day before so I restarted the troubleshooting on the high amp fuses. This time I found that opening MEGA 5 (Electric Booster Heater) alleviated the current draw. After looking at the wiring for the Electric Booster Heater it gets one of its control signals from the BCM, so that could explain why removing MEGA 4 dropped the current draw by removing its faulty control signal. Hopefully its just the electric booster heater, I have no problem leaving that disconnected.

Gonna let the wife drive it around with it disconnected for a while and see how it holds. Take a look and let me know if anything doesn't make sense or I messed something up here.

 

[murcod]

I found that opening MEGA 5 (Electric Booster Heater)

Is that Electric Booster Heater something fitted in cold climates?

You're making good progress with the fault finding.

 

[murcod]

Some info:

The BCM switches on the electric booster heater depending on the following parameters:
-Engine coolant temperature is below 60 °C (140°F)
-Ambient air temperature is below 10 °C (50°F)
-Sufficient generator capacity is available
The electric booster heater electronics activates three output stages depending on a PWM signal generated by
the BCM . The output stages switch the three heating elements of the electric booster heater ON or OFF
individually, allowing the heating periods of the individual elements to overlap. Due to the variable switch-on
duration, continuously variable temperature control is possible. The overall heating power of tee heating
elements is linearly proportional to the PWM signal. If the PWM signal is below 10% or above 95%, the
electric booster heater is not activated.

Edit:

F5 is shown as connecting directly to the Booster Heater.
BCM plug C2280F pin 17 goes from the BCM to the Booster Heater (along with heated seats etc.) It's 12V IGN supply via F85. I didn't find the PWM signal feed from the BCM.

 

[BNault]

Some info:

The BCM switches on the electric booster heater depending on the following parameters:
-Engine coolant temperature is below 60 °C (140°F)
-Ambient air temperature is below 10 °C (50°F)
-Sufficient generator capacity is available
The electric booster heater electronics activates three output stages depending on a PWM signal generated by
the BCM . The output stages switch the three heating elements of the electric booster heater ON or OFF
individually, allowing the heating periods of the individual elements to overlap. Due to the variable switch-on
duration, continuously variable temperature control is possible. The overall heating power of tee heating
elements is linearly proportional to the PWM signal. If the PWM signal is below 10% or above 95%, the
electric booster heater is not activated.

Not sure if it's fitted in cold climates mainly, but that would make sense. This car was purchased in South Dakota and resides in Maryland now.

Thanks for the info! She made it to work and it started after work (4 hr off time) so that's a good sign. Ill give it a week then if I remember ill post back in here for the resolution. Almost every post I found about this ran to the edge of the cliff to leave me hanging asking "What happened! Did you just get rid of it?!".

 

[murcod]

Not sure if it's fitted in cold climates mainly, but that would make sense.

I know with the Kuga there are different climate "specs" listed on ETIS. Mine doesn't have the heater booster and ETIS says "Warm Temp Zones", "Less Heated Windscreen", "Less Heated Washer Jet", "Less Engine Block Heater", "Less Auxiliary Heater" in the specs. I know the UK gets some sort of heater booster and also a windscreen defroster (heated wires built into the screen.) Perhaps all North American vehicles get the heater booster?

 

[BNault]

Not sure if it's fitted in cold climates mainly, but that would make sense. This car was purchased in South Dakota and resides in Maryland now.

Thanks for the info! She made it to work and it started after work (4 hr off time) so that's a good sign. Ill give it a week then if I remember ill post back in here for the resolution. Almost every post I found about this ran to the edge of the cliff to leave me hanging asking "What happened! Did you just get rid of it?!".

UPDATE

Disabling the Electric Booster Heater has fixed the draw. I could go further and look at replacing it, but I don't think its something we will end up fixing as it drives just fine without it.

 

[bobbimack]

UPDATE

Disabling the Electric Booster Heater has fixed the draw. I could go further and look at replacing it, but I don't think its something we will end up fixing as it drives just fine without it.

I'm having a similar issue with my 2014 Escape - would you mind posting how you disabled the Electric Booster Heater?

 

[Pilottjl]

I had a previous parasitic drain a few years ago, but I pulled the fuse to the rear wipers, and not a problem since-
Now I’m having the same issue yet a much more powerful drain -
AAA could not help me and sent me to the Ford dealership-my car has been there since a week before Christmas.. 3 MONTHS !!
They called me and told me I needed a new PCM computer chip-then they said they weren’t able to even program the computer chip and that they were reaching out to Ford for a master technician. That was over a month ago.-I stopped in the dealership today because I still haven’t received a call back and they told me that the master technician worked on it all morning and they think they know the problem-he stated it was the wiring between the fuse box, and the PCM panel-they said hopefully I’ll have it back at the end of the week- they haven’t figured it out yet!!!
I believe they’re going to charge me around $2500, that is if they’re able to fix it. I feel like I’m being lied to and it’s been three months, if you can’t fix it, tell me you can’t fix it and I’ll take it somewhere else. Does anybody have any comments or suggestions?

 

[Gryffindor101]

I had a previous parasitic drain a few years ago, but I pulled the fuse to the rear wipers, and not a problem since-
Now I’m having the same issue yet a much more powerful drain -
AAA could not help me and sent me to the Ford dealership-my car has been there since a week before Christmas.. 3 MONTHS !!
They called me and told me I needed a new PCM computer chip-then they said they weren’t able to even program the computer chip and that they were reaching out to Ford for a master technician. That was over a month ago.-I stopped in the dealership today because I still haven’t received a call back and they told me that the master technician worked on it all morning and they think they know the problem-he stated it was the wiring between the fuse box, and the PCM panel-they said hopefully I’ll have it back at the end of the week- they haven’t figured it out yet!!!
I believe they’re going to charge me around $2500, that is if they’re able to fix it. I feel like I’m being lied to and it’s been three months, if you can’t fix it, tell me you can’t fix it and I’ll take it somewhere else. Does anybody have any comments or suggestions?

I merged your thread with an existing thread on the same topic. Have a look at the other posts for some possible help.

 

[Pilottjl]

I merged your thread with an existing thread on the same topic. Have a look at the other posts for some possible help.

Thank you ! I appreciate that !
I have read so much- my car is now fixed but I’m still in shock ! The dealership had my car 13 weeks

They initially said they thought it needed a new pcm but then they couldn’t get it to program & informed me that they put a call into Ford for a master techs help.
I was told it was a faulty wire between the fuse box and the pcm - and if they had the same checklist as the master tech then they wouldn’t have needed to order a second chip-
Could this wire have caused my original pcm to be damaged… draining brand new battery in minutes ! They couldn’t even unlock my car -
I even thought maybe it was charged wrong and that’s what happened to the original PCM. ??
They charged me for two pcm chips and a new key fob.
Why doesn’t the ford dealership have the same checklist as the master tech for this kind of parasitic draw? That would have saved them about 2 months and my cost in the end -
- upon picking up car, it smelled like burnt plastic - but they had already closed and I couldn’t go back in.
They must know about the smell because there was a car fragrance tree hangin my from my mirror that smells like too much cologne .. lol
It’s not like they did a Courtesy wash - just the smelly tree.
One more question please :
I began w AAA - the service guy for AAA was able to jump start my car in my driveway. But I had them tow it in for a battery replacement because it was a Sunday . AAA they said they couldn’t charge the battery and they put a new one in and it drained in minutes . And for me to take it to the ford dealership .

My bill states it was circuit CDC34

 

[murcod]

My bill states it was circuit CDC34

What year model is your Escape?

I found that circuit mentioned for a 2010 and 2012 model here :

2012 Ford Escape XLT 2.5L Run Circuits

All run circuits intermittently stay live, so vehicle does not shut off. CDC34 white w/ orange tracer does not power down even if you disconnect the ignition switch. I traced the problem to the portion of the circuit going to the smart junction box, i.e.,t...

www.iatn.net

2012 Ford Escape XLT 2.5L Run Circuits

All run circuits intermittently stay live, so vehicle does not shut off. CDC34 white w/ orange tracer does not power down even if you disconnect the ignition switch. I traced the problem to the portion of the circuit going to the smart junction box,

https://f01.justanswer.com/dcraig1000/dae56ca4-22a0-470c-bd34-efa9b1b94dc9_eee.pdf

CDC34
(WH-OG)
18
SWITCH - IGNITION #
RUN; START

I've got the workshop manual for the 2013 Escape and don't get any hits searching it.