The dealership just told me the new instrument cluster did not fix the problem. They are still trying to diagnose.
Parasitic drain/draw
2017 Escape Titanium 2.0L FWD no aftermarket additions, new battery less than one month ago, ForScan BMS reset,
I disconnected the battery about 4 hours after driving it, contrary to the latest recommendations as to how to do it without disconnecting the battery, but if I don't do it for this test I'll have to disconnect it if it's not driven every day. Tested amps between positive post and cable. Initial draw was 4 amps, and then over the next 4 minutes it gradually dropped milliamps through the ranges down to .370 and stayed there. I'm wondering what the most likely culprit is. The underhood fuse box has lots of square larger amp fuses which will have to be pulled to check, so I can't just use the probes on them like on the smaller fuses (I don't think that's possible...correct me if I'm wrong.) Checking all the smaller fuses yielded no results--0.0 on all. Battery was at 12.7 volts, and the automatic charger at 2 amps does not indicate a full charge, so I'm leaving it on for a few hours. Is the alternator a prime suspect on these? I'll disconnect it and see if it makes a difference. I'm guessing that has to be done from underneath. I have a spare alternator, but are the diodes in these easily replaced. I like to have a spare with me on long trips. Thanks for any similar experiences you may have had.
I disconnected the battery about 4 hours after driving it, contrary to the latest recommendations as to how to do it without disconnecting the battery, but if I don't do it for this test I'll have to disconnect it if it's not driven every day. Tested amps between positive post and cable. Initial draw was 4 amps, and then over the next 4 minutes it gradually dropped milliamps through the ranges down to .370 and stayed there. I'm wondering what the most likely culprit is. The underhood fuse box has lots of square larger amp fuses which will have to be pulled to check, so I can't just use the probes on them like on the smaller fuses (I don't think that's possible...correct me if I'm wrong.) Checking all the smaller fuses yielded no results--0.0 on all. Battery was at 12.7 volts, and the automatic charger at 2 amps does not indicate a full charge, so I'm leaving it on for a few hours. Is the alternator a prime suspect on these? I'll disconnect it and see if it makes a difference. I'm guessing that has to be done from underneath. I have a spare alternator, but are the diodes in these easily replaced. I like to have a spare with me on long trips. Thanks for any similar experiences you may have had.
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The selling dealer has offered to take the car back for what we paid since the Ford dealer says its unrepairable. Hard to believe a 2019 Ford with 60,000 miles that has battery drain is unrepairable. 
That's crazy. They must have run out of flow charts to follow in the WSM .... so threw the towel in! 😆The selling dealer has offered to take the car back for what we paid since the Ford dealer says its unrepairable. Hard to believe a 2019 Ford with 60,000 miles that has battery drain is unrepairable.
Are you going to take up the offer?
Probably, we looked at a 2019 Rav4 last night but the used car manager was off for the day so we couldn't do the deal until today. I'm sure the Toyota is fine and it'll run forever but I still prefer the looks of the Ford.
Not that it matters now, but it's interesting that the car needed a new battery and new transmission in less than 4 years.
I wonder if they damaged the fuses or wires near the battery by sliding it out. Apparently it's somewhat common to break stuff using the airbox removal method.
I wonder if they damaged the fuses or wires near the battery by sliding it out. Apparently it's somewhat common to break stuff using the airbox removal method.
No, what they have is an inept shop. FORD will even send out a troubleshooter on a repair such as this.That's crazy. They must have run out of flow charts to follow in the WSM .... so threw the towel in!
😆
Are you going to take up the offer?
I would take the buy-back offered in a NY MINUTE. Even if you take it to another dealer you will just be prolonging the agony. It needs to be shot between the headlamps and put out of it's misery as they will pass it on as a USED CAR.
Yes, I had a look at one when I bought a Yaris in 2020- they're very nice inside compared to my 2016 (Sync2 update) Kuga. The drivetrains aren't very inspiring though.Probably, we looked at a 2019 Rav4 last night
We did get the Rav4 and it's very nice. I'm so disappointed in the quality and ability of the Ford to be repaired. I was born into a Ford family but I'll probably never buy another after this experience.
I always buy whatever brand/ model suits my desires best. I don't understand people who have to buy the same brand all the time, but know a few people who do that.We did get the Rav4 and it's very nice. I'm so disappointed in the quality and ability of the Ford to be repaired. I was born into a Ford family but I'll probably never buy another after this experience.
Good luck with the Rav4.
61 - 69 of 69 Posts
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