2013+ Ford Escape Forum banner
1 - 20 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read and see something close to my issue. I used an obd2 reader and cleared a code. Then my ford escape 2.0 2014 fwd would not start. Boosted it and ran fine. 12hr later would not start, boast and good. Battery tests with a multi meter show its charging okay. Unplugged the negative, no rust or corrosion. I have 3.4 amp draw. Pulled f88 and dropped to 1amp draw. Plugged back in and pulled f71 f79 and the draw is 1 again. Any help on what to do?
 

·
Registered
2019 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E AWD
Joined
·
5,218 Posts
Welcome to the forum!

Please tell us your full trim level and if you have push-button start or any aftermarket electrical mods (alarm system, remote start, etc)

.... I used an obd2 reader and cleared a code. ....
What was the code you cleared and has that any other codes recurred? Did you do anything to 'correct' the cause of the code you cleared?

Is this the original battery? Have you had it 'load tested' rather than simple passive multi-meter voltage/current tests?

How did you do your 'parasitic load' test? Did you set-up your test instrument(s) and wait at least several hours without touching anything on the vehicle for everything to enter 'sleep mode' to read the instrument without touching anything on the vehicle? Before commencing the test setup you ensure that absolutely nothing was plugged into any / all of the USB and 12V ports?

The car may well show relatively high current draw immediately after shut-down but that should drop over time as the various systems go into 'standby' and eventually 'full-sleep' mode. But note that those transitions toward lowest 'parasitic draw' can be interrupted / reset to higher current draw with even the most innocuous action (approaching with an active fob if you have intelligent access or opening the hood or a door even if you don't).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jammer717

·
Registered
2019 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E AWD
Joined
·
5,218 Posts
Then I'd proceed with the battery load test (or just go ahead with battery replacement & BMS reset) as the next step; especially if the original battery, at this point with a '14 you're much closer to its end-of-life than not under any longevity scenario.

Not doubting the 'parasitic' current load you measured, just not confident that's representative of the ongoing continuous load after shut-down or representative of an abnormal condition in itself.

The timing of battery let-down relative to the code-clearing may be just 'happy' coincidence - just as it would be if you suddenly had a change in the ongoing parasitic load behavior of an unrelated module after clearing a code like that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jammer717

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
I have read and see something close to my issue. I used an obd2 reader and cleared a code. Then my ford escape 2.0 2014 fwd would not start. Boosted it and ran fine. 12hr later would not start, boast and good. Battery tests with a multi meter show its charging okay. Unplugged the negative, no rust or corrosion. I have 3.4 amp draw. Pulled f88 and dropped to 1amp draw. Plugged back in and pulled f71 f79 and the draw is 1 again. Any help on what to do?
Sync Could be causing the problem. A month ago music from my phone was playing on my car after I turned it off. I started turning off the Bluetooth on my my phone before exiting the vehicle.
 

·
Registered
2019 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E AWD
Joined
·
5,218 Posts
Sync Could be causing the problem. A month ago music from my phone was playing on my car after I turned it off. I started turning off the Bluetooth on my my phone before exiting the vehicle.
That's an example of intentional by design delayed audio shut-down, though it should stop playing on it's own when you open a door to exit the car.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jammer717

·
Registered
2019 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E AWD
Joined
·
5,218 Posts
It’s a poor design to be playing music from my phone after turning off and exiting my car for about three hours.
I'd agree with that if that were the design - IMHO it sounds like there's a problem with the audio delay shut-off and/or battery saver system in your car, that's not fitting the description of proper operation of those systems as designed. I'd have the dealer check that out under warranty.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jammer717

·
Registered
2019 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E AWD
Joined
·
5,218 Posts
Is there a bms reset tutorial on here?
See DIY Battery Monitor System Reset.

Since making that post in 2015 I've replaced my battery and used the FORScan method described therein with success as have many others.

Unfortunately there's no 'tool-free' method yet proven to work on US / Canadian Escapes (unlike some Kuga markets per reports here).

;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Hello Everyone,
My name is Jim, we recently bought a 2013 Escape SEL and really enjoy it. Then one day as I was driving and it notified me that there was an error with the USB cord that was plugged into the USB connection inside the center console. I quickly unplugged it and thought that was that. To my surprise then the screen showed that there was an error with the SD card for the Nav so I took that out. I turned the car off and then back on and reinserted the Nav card without issue, the system worked fine. When I went out the next morning the car was dead, no power whatsoever. We got the car jumped and everything seems to be functioning perfectly. There are no malfunctions anywhere that we can notice, it drives great and can last all day with doing errands or whatnot with shutting it on and off sporadically. To my dismay every night when its left for 9-12 hours it won't start. We are really strapped financially and I don't want to do any unnecessary repairs so I thought to ask the fine people of this forum. Could it maybe be a bad battery that caused those issues or is it deeper issues that are causing the battery to die? I understand the limitations and difficulties of diagnosing over the internet but any info/opinions on it would be greatly appreciated. I am very sorry for the length of this post, and I thank you for your time if you've stuck around till now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Update from Jim...
Although I haven't had any responses or advice yet I'm still going to post this in hopes that someone responds... With no clear reason for battery drain and the battery and charging system tested and passed I started pulling fuses. Now I'm not a mechanic and don't have any tools or meters but when I pulled the #79/radio,nav DVD,touch screen,hazard switch, door lock switch fuse the car started without a jump for the first time in over a week. I know that you can't tell if that's the Parasitic drain it not without me measuring the draw while pulling it but Was just wondering if a more experienced person would know if pulling that specific fuse could possibly just compensate for some other issue? I don't know... Again, any info or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,018 Posts
Update from Jim...
Although I haven't had any responses or advice yet I'm still going to post this in hopes that someone responds... With no clear reason for battery drain and the battery and charging system tested and passed I started pulling fuses. Now I'm not a mechanic and don't have any tools or meters but when I pulled the #79/radio,nav DVD,touch screen,hazard switch, door lock switch fuse the car started without a jump for the first time in over a week. I know that you can't tell if that's the Parasitic drain it not without me measuring the draw while pulling it but Was just wondering if a more experienced person would know if pulling that specific fuse could possibly just compensate for some other issue? I don't know... Again, any info or advice would be greatly appreciated.
A couple of items. First, other than mention that this is a 2013 Escape, you have provided no vehicle information. Sync sytem, trim level etc. That information really helps readers with giving you better advice or any advice.
Second: You have not mentioned how old the battery is. Is it new, has it been replaced? If so. how many miles ago?
Finally, you say the battery and alternator have been tested and passed. By who and how were the tests done.
Also, if the battery was replaced was the BMS reset properly?
Consider searching threads on this board regarding battery issues. You actually may find more useful information there than the very detailed "parsitic draws".
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tall Timbers

·
Registered
2019 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E AWD
Joined
·
5,218 Posts
@Jim13Esc

Noting you say in your OP above that yours is a 2013 SEL which means it has SYNC2 MFT ...

Yes, it is possible that pulling 15A F79 'curing' your problem is an indicator that one or more of the components or circuits fed by that "hot at all times" fuse has a parasitic drain, possibly a short-to-ground that is not energetic enough (low volts/amps) to cause the fuse to blow.

Noting mention of issues related to the USB/SD card in the console …. that entire "media hub" panel can be pried-out from the front and disconnected from it's power/signal cable at the connector on the back of the "media hub". There have been instances reported (not particularly common) of the USB socket suffering damage due to high-heat generated by some USB devices or poor connection at that socket. Just one of many possibilities.

Borderline battery condition, battery terminal corrosion, less-than-tight battery terminals, and corrosion / damage at the BMS module or it's associated 2-wire connector on the negative battery terminal are also among the candidates for the source of your issue, IMO. Personally, I'd look to those first, FWIW ($0.00) my 'gut' tells me that a larger simple issue is more likely than some obscure parasitic drain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
A couple of items. First, other than mention that this is a 2013 Escape, you have provided no vehicle information. Sync sytem, trim level etc. That information really helps readers with giving you better advice or any advice.
Second: You have not mentioned how old the battery is. Is it new, has it been replaced? If so. how many miles ago?
Finally, you say the battery and alternator have been tested and passed. By who and how were the tests done.
Also, if the battery was replaced was the BMS reset properly?
Consider searching threads on this board regarding battery issues. You actually may find more useful information there than the very detailed "parsitic draws".
[/QUOT
A couple of items. First, other than mention that this is a 2013 Escape, you have provided no vehicle information. Sync sytem, trim level etc. That information really helps readers with giving you better advice or any advice.
Second: You have not mentioned how old the battery is. Is it new, has it been replaced? If so. how many miles ago?
Finally, you say the battery and alternator have been tested and passed. By who and how were the tests done.
Also, if the battery was replaced was the BMS reset properly?
Consider searching threads on this board regarding battery issues. You actually may find more useful information there than the very detailed "parsitic draws".
I have mentioned the trim level and I've also read many threads on many different subjects. Not sure why you would assume that I haven't. Anyway it's a 13 SEL, not positive on the Sync model, the battery is less than two months old and would bet my life that the BMS wasn't reset properly. The battery and alternator were tested as a favor by a mechanic but any more investigating on his end would require payment (understandably) that at this moment I cannot afford .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
@Jim13Esc

Noting you say in your OP above that yours is a 2013 SEL which means it has SYNC2 MFT ...

Yes, it is possible that pulling 15A F79 'curing' your problem is an indicator that one or more of the components or circuits fed by that "hot at all times" fuse has a parasitic drain, possibly a short-to-ground that is not energetic enough (low volts/amps) to cause the fuse to blow.

Noting mention of issues related to the USB/SD card in the console …. that entire "media hub" panel can be pried-out from the front and disconnected from it's power/signal cable at the connector on the back of the "media hub". There have been instances reported (not particularly common) of the USB socket suffering damage due to high-heat generated by some USB devices or poor connection at that socket. Just one of many possibilities.

Borderline battery condition, battery terminal corrosion, less-than-tight battery terminals, and corrosion / damage at the BMS module or it's associated 2-wire connector on the negative battery terminal are also among the candidates for the source of your issue, IMO. Personally, I'd look to those first, FWIW ($0.00) my 'gut' tells me that a larger simple issue is more likely than some obscure parasitic drain.
That's great info...thank you for the advice, I appreciate it very much.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,018 Posts
I have mentioned the trim level and I've also read many threads on many different subjects. Not sure why you would assume that I haven't. Anyway it's a 13 SEL, not positive on the Sync model, the battery is less than two months old and would bet my life that the BMS wasn't reset properly. The battery and alternator were tested as a favor by a mechanic but any more investigating on his end would require payment (understandably) that at this moment I cannot afford .
I will leave the details about the specifics of a parasitic draw to Centex and others that know more than I. It has been pretty well documented that the battery can cause all sorts of elctronic crazziness. It is also well documented here and in the Ford Service Procedures that resetting the BMS with a new battery is REALLY necessary. As you proceed with your evaluations, you may want to consider this in your process. Also, there have been some reports that the positive cable can corrode and that includes the electronic devices that "measures" the electricity.
 
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
Top