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Also, there have been some reports that the positive cable can corrode and that includes the electronic devices that "measures" the electricity.
That's usually the case with the negative battery cable/ clamp (which is also the location of the BMS sensor- not the positive.)

Jim12Esc the negative is the terminal that is hidden from view- up against the firewall. Hopefully whoever changed the battery would have mentioned if there was corrosion, but it would be worthwhile double checking.

The parasitic drain you found with fuse 79 would be worthwhile looking into further. Hooking up a multimeter in place of the fuse and checking the current after the vehicle had been sitting for > 15 minutes would be worth doing. (Some circuits remain powered for around 12 minutes after the last door is closed, so you'd want to leave it sitting for at least 15 minutes before checking the current drain.)
 

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,,,, after the vehicle had been sitting for > 15 minutes would be worth doing. (Some circuits remain powered for around 12 minutes after the last door is closed, so you'd want to leave it sitting for at least 15 minutes before checking the current drain.)
FYI / FWIW

The 2013-2014 WSM specifies (section 414-01 Battery, Mounting and Cables, subsection "Battery Drain Check"):

"NOTE: No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw. Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 50 mA (0.050 amp) with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest for at least 40 minutes. Current drains can be tested with the following procedure.
….."


The complete detailed 12-point procedure follows the above excerpt.

Please note the referenced 50 mA is the not-to-exceed total vehicle drain, measured between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable.

Be aware that the detailed procedure describes that a (temporary) 30A fused jumper must be used between the battery and the negative battery cable such that the ammeter can be installed without causing even a momentary discontinuity between the battery and the negative cable, lest modules be reset from their rest-state and corrupt the test.
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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FYI / FWIW

The 2013-2014 WSM specifies (section 414-01 Battery, Mounting and Cables, subsection "Battery Drain Check"):

"NOTE: No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw. Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 50 mA (0.050 amp) with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest for at least 40 minutes. Current drains can be tested with the following procedure.
….."


The complete detailed 12-point procedure follows the above excerpt.

Please note the referenced 50 mA is the not-to-exceed total vehicle drain, measured between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable.

Be aware that the detailed procedure describes that a (temporary) 30A fused jumper must be used between the battery and the negative battery cable such that the ammeter can be installed without causing even a momentary discontinuity between the battery and the negative cable, lest modules be reset from their rest-state and corrupt the test.
I was only referring to checking that one fuse circuit- F79. (Given that appeared to fix the fault when left removed.)
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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That's not good.

You could continue fault finding by pulling fuses, but it would be worthwhile using a multimeter to check the actual current drawn. You could use the procedure Centex posted earlier. You can access the wiring diagrams for free here http://www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams/ . They'd be useful if you want to continue pulling individual fuses- for example to work out what is being powered by the engine bay fuses.

Did you check the negative battery terminal for corrosion as it's got the BMS sensor on it which has caused many similar faults? It will require some disassembly to access it. I'd personally suggest doing it via removing the air filter box, but you can also remove the windscreen wipers and cowling to do it. There is a lot of other threads on how to do it.

One other thing- I don't supposed you have access to an infrared thermal camera? See this

(I bought one recently and it's amazing what they can pick up.)
 

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Weve had the car about 2 months and this past week the battery has died 5 times. Had the battery tested they said it was fine along with the alternator.

We've tested all fuses and didnt find one that is causing the issue.

Could it still be the. Battery or is it electrical.

We are at our wits end
 

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Fuses don't cause battery drain.
Either you are leaving something on, something is staying on, or something has failed and is causing parasitic drain.
Or possibly you are not recharging the batter well enough after it is drained?

Are you SURE you are not leaving something on, park lights, overhead or reading light, cell phone charger in a socket, etc.
Is there anything unusual, like the overhead light staying on longer than usual, park lights, fog lights, etc.?

Next would be to start pulling fuses to try to figure out which circuit is causing the drain.
 

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You neglected to say how many miles are on the car. When was the car built? is this the first battery to the car or a new replacment. Do you have any added devices plugged in? Specficially to the powerpoint? Also, check the many threads on this board dealing with this issue. Finally, consider adding vehicle information to your signature line.
 
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Any chance that the battery is being drained by a CarPlay GPS app? I have had roughly 4 full battery drains requiring a jump.

I've noticed the blue bar along the top of the home screen of my iPhone after I've shutdown the car ( many minutes later) that indicates that CarPlay is still on. Usually double clicking the button on the iPhone will show the active apps and simply swipe it away but it doesn't work in this case. Instead I need to touch the blue bar to bring up the app which in my case has been the Waze app and then I can exit to the homepage, double click and swipe/close the app. The blue bar disappears. I have experienced this several times.

So...

why isn't CarPlay disconnecting and shutting down the Waze app after turning off the car?
has anyone that experiences the drain problem also are frequent users of CarPlay and GPS apps?
is it possible that Sync remains "alive" longer that it should and potentially draining the battery.

I installed FordPass because someone mentioned that it will push a notification if the car enters "deep sleep" and I was hoping to use this as an alert for when the battery does crash. But now when I enter the car I get a notification on the Escapes screen that FordPass is using GPS. Is there any value for using FordPass and if I delete the app does the car continue to use the GPS of my phone for it's own purposes not directions? I have a feeling that FordPass benefits Ford more than me and like most GPS apps they are selling the data.

thanks
 

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2017 Escape Titanium FWD 2.0L 100K plus mi.
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Dead battery a couple of times after 2 days of non-use got me to checking parasitic drain. I have 2 milliamps (.02 amps) for approx. 20 minutes, followed by 2.25 amps for 10 minutes, then repeated over and over. Anyone familiar if there is something normal that is causing this, or something malfunctioning. The 2.25 is extreme even if it's only 1/3 of the time, giving a .80 average over the hour when a maximum of .05 is tolerable. Ideas?
 

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Dead battery a couple of times after 2 days of non-use got me to checking parasitic drain. I have 2 milliamps (.02 amps) for approx. 20 minutes, followed by 2.25 amps for 10 minutes, then repeated over and over. Anyone familiar if there is something normal that is causing this, or something malfunctioning. The 2.25 is extreme even if it's only 1/3 of the time, giving a .80 average over the hour when a maximum of .05 is tolerable. Ideas?
I merged your thread with one of the many threads on unexplained battery drain issues. Have a look a the other posts for some help. You can also search the forum for other threads that may be of help
 

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I have 2 milliamps (.02 amps) for approx. 20 minutes, followed by 2.25 amps for 10 minutes, then repeated over and over.
Definitely not normal- there's nothing left plugged into any cigarette lighter sockets or the USB ports?

You might need to start pulling fuses to isolate which circuit it is. Perhaps check your battery terminals for corrosion just in case something strange is going on with the BMS sensor (black plastic box bit on the negative terminal clamp, it has two small wires going to it.) It's known to corrode and interfere with the battery charging.
 

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I bought a used 2013 SEL back in March 2020 with the only issue being the hatch slightly crooked and occasionally not responding to key fob or buttons in the car (something manageable). Mechanic said car was in wonderful condition for 44k miles - month later car died in driveway randomly AAA said dead battery so I got brand new battery no alternator troubles. Month later car died. Jumped it and it ran fine. Month later- you get the point. Now the issue is every couple of days, left it with mechanic who kept missing the dying portion only finding it entirely dead can not even attempt to start can not open hatch can not lock or unlock. I just witnessed the dying - interior lights flickered like I have a poltergeist, car said I have no key fob (was in my hand), said it would not turn on SYNC to save battery, clicking noice with lights, attempted to tell me to push brake to start only to go away again and refused to shut itself off even when I hit the push to start button. Has anyone else experienced something like this or know what could be happening? My boyfriend is an ex-mechanic and he thinks I have a "parasitic leak" draining the power somewhere and not letting the power save work? I start work on Tuesday and I'd rather not take this to a Ford dealer so if anyone knows what to do I am quite literally begging here. I spent a semesters worth of tuition to get this car and it was a risk I really need some help here.
 

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I bought a used 2013 SEL back in March 2020 with the only issue being the hatch slightly crooked and occasionally not responding to key fob or buttons in the car (something manageable). Mechanic said car was in wonderful condition for 44k miles - month later car died in driveway randomly AAA said dead battery so I got brand new battery no alternator troubles. Month later car died. Jumped it and it ran fine. Month later- you get the point. Now the issue is every couple of days, left it with mechanic who kept missing the dying portion only finding it entirely dead can not even attempt to start can not open hatch can not lock or unlock. I just witnessed the dying - interior lights flickered like I have a poltergeist, car said I have no key fob (was in my hand), said it would not turn on SYNC to save battery, clicking noice with lights, attempted to tell me to push brake to start only to go away again and refused to shut itself off even when I hit the push to start button. Has anyone else experienced something like this or know what could be happening? My boyfriend is an ex-mechanic and he thinks I have a "parasitic leak" draining the power somewhere and not letting the power save work? I start work on Tuesday and I'd rather not take this to a Ford dealer so if anyone knows what to do I am quite literally begging here. I spent a semesters worth of tuition to get this car and it was a risk I really need some help here.
Was the BMS reset? Check the many threads on battery and BMS.
 

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2014 Ford Escape Titanium, 2.0L, Sync 2 MFT
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I bought a used 2013 SEL back in March 2020 with the only issue being the hatch slightly crooked and occasionally not responding to key fob or buttons in the car (something manageable). Mechanic said car was in wonderful condition for 44k miles - month later car died in driveway randomly AAA said dead battery so I got brand new battery no alternator troubles. Month later car died. Jumped it and it ran fine. Month later- you get the point. Now the issue is every couple of days, left it with mechanic who kept missing the dying portion only finding it entirely dead can not even attempt to start can not open hatch can not lock or unlock. I just witnessed the dying - interior lights flickered like I have a poltergeist, car said I have no key fob (was in my hand), said it would not turn on SYNC to save battery, clicking noice with lights, attempted to tell me to push brake to start only to go away again and refused to shut itself off even when I hit the push to start button. Has anyone else experienced something like this or know what could be happening? My boyfriend is an ex-mechanic and he thinks I have a "parasitic leak" draining the power somewhere and not letting the power save work? I start work on Tuesday and I'd rather not take this to a Ford dealer so if anyone knows what to do I am quite literally begging here. I spent a semesters worth of tuition to get this car and it was a risk I really need some help here.
I merged your thread with this existing thread. Have a look at some of the other posts to see if any of them will help you. There at other threads too, but this one might help the best. As the poster above mentioned, make sure the BMS is reset.
 

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My 2013 ford escape titanium keeps dying. Ford said bad battery so I changed battery and it still happens! My radio fuse was removed by a mechanic who taught it would cure that problem for the time being but it still dies 😭. Any ideas or advice?
 

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My 2013 ford escape titanium keeps dying. Ford said bad battery so I changed battery and it still happens! My radio fuse was removed by a mechanic who taught it would cure that problem for the time being but it still dies 😭. Any ideas or advice?
  • Check both battery cables for continuity and tightness at both ends. A cable could be corroded underneath the outer cover and not be conducting electricity properly. A loose cable may allow the lights, etc to function but not have enough contact to start.
  • Can happen with a new(er) battery, although rare. Tate it to a place that sells car batteries- Wal-Mart, O'rielly's, Pep Boys etc and have the battery load tested. They will do this for free and it only takes a few minutes. This will determine if the battery is worn out/defective.
  • Is anything plugged into the 12v (cigarette lighter) sockets (front & rear)? The 12v sockets are powered even with the ignition off.
  • Check that all interior lights including the sun visor mirrors are turned off
  • Check the rear of the car for brake lights that may be stuck on- faulty switch on the brake pedal.
  • Something may not be turning off? Radiator fan? Water pump?
 

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Hi there... just was reading about “phantom battery drain”.... I’ve had my 2018 back to dealership couple times about not starting... they couldn’t tell me anything to do... they didn’t say anything about that.... sounds like that’s happening to mine!! Good charge every now an then has helped but Ford couldn’t help... now i’m about out of warranty... gee thanks for the headsup!!
 

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This is going to be a very long post for that i apologize ahead of time, but i am at my wits end. Let me apologize also for grammar and spelling mistakes.

2013 Ford Escape, SEL 1.6L eco boost, with panarmic roof and push button start with remote start, 58,000 miles

PROBLEM: Brand new car battery that is 2 weeks old purchased from ford service center, car wont start. dead battery about every 2-3 days

BACKGROUND: Back in 2019 i had same issue with battery problems...now fast forward to june 22.

I went to start the car to head to work and dead battery. I jumped the car it started about as soon as i hooked up jumper cables. Drove to work, about a 15-minute drive. At end of work day car started, once home i put battery on charger. Then over the course of the week, car would start a couple more times. I went thru the same process, hooking battery up to charger to start. Something is going on for sure, so I drive the car down to one of those auto parts stores that test your battery/alternator/starter for free. Test came back all was ok other than the battery needed charged. I hooked up the battery to my trickle charger that i had and let set to full charge. A couple days later dead battery again.

I take the car to a ford dealership; car is under warranty at this point. This is the letter I wrote and leave in the car for the tech to read.

(NOTE: TO FORD TECH
This is the exact same issue we have had with this car 2019, over the course of a few months in 2019 we had the car to your shop at least 2or 3 times for the exact thing.
First time this happened I purchased a new battery from an auto parts store and i replaced the battery since it was original to the car from what i could tell, and that was ok for a few days then car would not start again. I took the car to your place, and I was told that when you replace the battery, you need to reset the Battery Control Module (which I never have heard of that then). The ford tech then tells me the battery in the car now is bad and that it needs replaced (remind you that this battery that he says dead is less than a week old), I then take car back to auto parts store where i buy the battery and they tell me battery is good by their testing equipment, so i drive car back to your ford dealership, tell then that. You then proceed to tell me that your testing equipment is far better than that of the auto parts store. I go back to auto parts store telling them this and I give them print out of the testing machine that the ford dealership did telling them that the battery is bad. The parts store runs the battery test again with result of good battery. The Autoparts store won't exchange battery if their testing equipment shows its good. I go back to ford dealership and say screw it and purchase a new battery from them. All is good. Fast forward to this June

Dead battery starting car in morning for work. middle of june. I took the car to auto parts store and they tested charging system. Battery tested ok, just needed charged they said, alternator test ok, starter did not test. Which the attendance said was odd that the test was a no go for starter. They said possible replace starter. I was having a dead battery almost every morning from about the 2nd week of June to present (which was about 3 weeks at that time) heading to work in the early am hours. I couldn't not connect the dots that my starter was bad so i let that idea fade off. I then purchased a battery charger (rather than the trickle charger i had) on June 22nd and when I got home, I put the charger on car. Battery was showing 85% charge then. Took almost 4 hours to fully charge.
Car started 2 times after that fine, the third time, dead no start. Car Will not unlock, totally dark on inside of car, I had to use the pull-out key from the fob to open driver's door to open hood to Hook back up charger, as soon as I hook up charger the interior lights come on but will not start right away it takes a couple of minutes then it starts. This has been my morning routine for almost 2 weeks now.

What is weird I thought that for the 12-hour shift at work, I work (5am-5pm) the car has started every time, it is just in the morning hours getting to work that it has acted this way so far.

I believe I have a short on something that is causing a battery drain, when car is off. I believe car is still covered by the warranty also. I am hoping you find the cause to why this car has had some battery issues, rather than just replace battery and reset the battery control module)

Thats the letter i give to the tech working on car. I drop the car off on Sunday night and they have the car for 3 days, i pick up car Wednesday evening:

The ford tech tells me that the car started every morning for them they said the tested battery and showed Battery good just low. They charged battery to 100% and reset BCM they charged the battery to full and reset the battery monitor system. They didn't charge me anything. He then makes a comment about if my car had a third-party remote start to me. I told them I had no idea if the remote starter was third-party. The only third-party options i have on the car is a hitch that we had installed. I bought the car used from them, but the keyfob is genuine ford, so I thought it was not a third party remote. Then I said you are the ones that should know if its 3rd party or not after all you had the car for three days. . I left

2 days later dead battery in morning. I take car to different automotive shop. Same scenario, I drop car off Sunday night and they have car for 3 days. I leave them the note i left for the ford tech and this note:

Note to Automotive Tech: Please read previous note that i wrote to ford dealership and this note:

The next day I tried starting car with the remote start and nothing happened, car would not start after that, fog lights were flashing and interior lights were dimming, then nothing. The panel inside said no keyfob found in car, and it was in my pocket. Put car on charger and then it started.

Lasted for about 2 weeks then

Car would not start 7.22 and 7.23 in the morning for me going to work, put the battery on charger and it started, drove to work, worked my 12 hour shift car started and got me home. The next morning same thing happened car would not start in the morning for me going to work, put the battery on charger and it started, drove to work, worked my 12 hour shift car started and got me home. I came home put it on the charger battery was at 75%, charged to full. Good so far.

Not sure if something is going on the built-in security system, remote starter or battery/starter/ charging system. As far as the car dealer says they can find nothing wrong)

Again, this shop comes back saying car started every morning and they could find nothing wrong. Remote start working as it should. So now i am at the process of having to put car on battery charger about every 2-3 days.

WTF...and to top it off the car is no longer under warranty

So early august we go on vacation for 2 weeks. when i get back home about 12 days later i go to start car and nothing. put car on charger it is reads that i have a sulunated battery. I take battery out of car take to dealership because i thought had warranty on it. They tell me battery is no good. And that i need a new one, comes to find out when they replaced the battery in 2019 that was a warranty replacement one, so i needed to buy a new one to start warranty coverage again. Then get into a conversation that less month ago you tell me battery is good, and i am just getting more angry talking about so i leave with a new battery. I put in the new battery, research how to perform a DIY battery reset on my car and do that. a week later dead battery. I charge battery to full and research bcm reset again. I find out that i did not reset correctly last time, so this time the battery light flashed 3 times at the end of the process so i did it correct. 3 days alter dead battery. I am more than angry now. I research forums like this one,, watched a lot of you tube videos and i am almost 100% i have a parasitic draw happening. I have to charge battery 100% about 2-3 days, battery is usually at 50 - 85% when i hook up charger.

I have not reset the BCM since i last did about a month ago. My car has not started at least 3 or 4 times since the last reset. I am at the point now i just put car on charger every other day.

I have done my own test for parasitic draw last week. I am not very mechanically inclined at this point in my life, but i tried this:

Found out where the 3 fuse boxes were.... Parked car, opened the driver's side and passenger side doors (manually latched those doors) so i could get to the fuse boxes without having to open doors once i started doing test. Turned off everything, unplugged anything that was plugged in, put key fobs a long way away from car. locked and armed security system and let sit for 2 hours. Hooked up multimeter in series with battery and got a reading of almost 4 amps. (As soon as i touched both leads of multimeter i can hear what sounds like a motor engaging from the car). I honestly don't think that is supposed to happen, none of the videos i watch showed that at all. I get a reading of about 4 amps constantly; it does not drop or fluctuate that much. I start pulling blocks of 4 or 5 fuses at a time once i get to the inside of the car, because i can't see meter from there, and I'm by myself. My meter kept turning itself off so i kept having to turn on/off and play with the leads again to get reading, again each time the 4amp draw and this motor sound each and every time i move or adjust the leads. Took me about an hour to go thru all 3 fuse boxes and the draw never went away. I am at my wits end.

I made an appointment with the car dealer for October 3rd. They told me car is not covered now. I told them this is the same problem that i took it to them in June of this year and that the warranty was still active then. He told me ford wont honor this for warranty because it is now past the date. I don't know what options i have at this point to get ford to fix this. I think it's coming 100% out of my pocket now. I just want it fixed now, with the cold season fast approaching i need this fixed before fall and winter get in full swing. If you can't help solve this mystery, I am hoping that someone can tell me how to dispute to ford and talk, or to write them to get them to honor warranty and fix this?

Thank you so much
 

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2014 Ford Escape Titanium, 2.0L, Sync 2 MFT
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This is going to be a very long post for that i apologize ahead of time, but i am at my wits end. Let me apologize also for grammar and spelling mistakes.

2013 Ford Escape, SEL 1.6L eco boost, with panarmic roof and push button start with remote start, 58,000 miles

PROBLEM: Brand new car battery that is 2 weeks old purchased from ford service center, car wont start. dead battery about every 2-3 days

BACKGROUND: Back in 2019 i had same issue with battery problems...now fast forward to june 22.

I went to start the car to head to work and dead battery. I jumped the car it started about as soon as i hooked up jumper cables. Drove to work, about a 15-minute drive. At end of work day car started, once home i put battery on charger. Then over the course of the week, car would start a couple more times. I went thru the same process, hooking battery up to charger to start. Something is going on for sure, so I drive the car down to one of those auto parts stores that test your battery/alternator/starter for free. Test came back all was ok other than the battery needed charged. I hooked up the battery to my trickle charger that i had and let set to full charge. A couple days later dead battery again.

I take the car to a ford dealership; car is under warranty at this point. This is the letter I wrote and leave in the car for the tech to read.

(NOTE: TO FORD TECH
This is the exact same issue we have had with this car 2019, over the course of a few months in 2019 we had the car to your shop at least 2or 3 times for the exact thing.
First time this happened I purchased a new battery from an auto parts store and i replaced the battery since it was original to the car from what i could tell, and that was ok for a few days then car would not start again. I took the car to your place, and I was told that when you replace the battery, you need to reset the Battery Control Module (which I never have heard of that then). The ford tech then tells me the battery in the car now is bad and that it needs replaced (remind you that this battery that he says dead is less than a week old), I then take car back to auto parts store where i buy the battery and they tell me battery is good by their testing equipment, so i drive car back to your ford dealership, tell then that. You then proceed to tell me that your testing equipment is far better than that of the auto parts store. I go back to auto parts store telling them this and I give them print out of the testing machine that the ford dealership did telling them that the battery is bad. The parts store runs the battery test again with result of good battery. The Autoparts store won't exchange battery if their testing equipment shows its good. I go back to ford dealership and say screw it and purchase a new battery from them. All is good. Fast forward to this June

Dead battery starting car in morning for work. middle of june. I took the car to auto parts store and they tested charging system. Battery tested ok, just needed charged they said, alternator test ok, starter did not test. Which the attendance said was odd that the test was a no go for starter. They said possible replace starter. I was having a dead battery almost every morning from about the 2nd week of June to present (which was about 3 weeks at that time) heading to work in the early am hours. I couldn't not connect the dots that my starter was bad so i let that idea fade off. I then purchased a battery charger (rather than the trickle charger i had) on June 22nd and when I got home, I put the charger on car. Battery was showing 85% charge then. Took almost 4 hours to fully charge.
Car started 2 times after that fine, the third time, dead no start. Car Will not unlock, totally dark on inside of car, I had to use the pull-out key from the fob to open driver's door to open hood to Hook back up charger, as soon as I hook up charger the interior lights come on but will not start right away it takes a couple of minutes then it starts. This has been my morning routine for almost 2 weeks now.

What is weird I thought that for the 12-hour shift at work, I work (5am-5pm) the car has started every time, it is just in the morning hours getting to work that it has acted this way so far.

I believe I have a short on something that is causing a battery drain, when car is off. I believe car is still covered by the warranty also. I am hoping you find the cause to why this car has had some battery issues, rather than just replace battery and reset the battery control module)

Thats the letter i give to the tech working on car. I drop the car off on Sunday night and they have the car for 3 days, i pick up car Wednesday evening:

The ford tech tells me that the car started every morning for them they said the tested battery and showed Battery good just low. They charged battery to 100% and reset BCM they charged the battery to full and reset the battery monitor system. They didn't charge me anything. He then makes a comment about if my car had a third-party remote start to me. I told them I had no idea if the remote starter was third-party. The only third-party options i have on the car is a hitch that we had installed. I bought the car used from them, but the keyfob is genuine ford, so I thought it was not a third party remote. Then I said you are the ones that should know if its 3rd party or not after all you had the car for three days. . I left

2 days later dead battery in morning. I take car to different automotive shop. Same scenario, I drop car off Sunday night and they have car for 3 days. I leave them the note i left for the ford tech and this note:

Note to Automotive Tech: Please read previous note that i wrote to ford dealership and this note:

The next day I tried starting car with the remote start and nothing happened, car would not start after that, fog lights were flashing and interior lights were dimming, then nothing. The panel inside said no keyfob found in car, and it was in my pocket. Put car on charger and then it started.

Lasted for about 2 weeks then

Car would not start 7.22 and 7.23 in the morning for me going to work, put the battery on charger and it started, drove to work, worked my 12 hour shift car started and got me home. The next morning same thing happened car would not start in the morning for me going to work, put the battery on charger and it started, drove to work, worked my 12 hour shift car started and got me home. I came home put it on the charger battery was at 75%, charged to full. Good so far.

Not sure if something is going on the built-in security system, remote starter or battery/starter/ charging system. As far as the car dealer says they can find nothing wrong)

Again, this shop comes back saying car started every morning and they could find nothing wrong. Remote start working as it should. So now i am at the process of having to put car on battery charger about every 2-3 days.

WTF...and to top it off the car is no longer under warranty

So early august we go on vacation for 2 weeks. when i get back home about 12 days later i go to start car and nothing. put car on charger it is reads that i have a sulunated battery. I take battery out of car take to dealership because i thought had warranty on it. They tell me battery is no good. And that i need a new one, comes to find out when they replaced the battery in 2019 that was a warranty replacement one, so i needed to buy a new one to start warranty coverage again. Then get into a conversation that less month ago you tell me battery is good, and i am just getting more angry talking about so i leave with a new battery. I put in the new battery, research how to perform a DIY battery reset on my car and do that. a week later dead battery. I charge battery to full and research bcm reset again. I find out that i did not reset correctly last time, so this time the battery light flashed 3 times at the end of the process so i did it correct. 3 days alter dead battery. I am more than angry now. I research forums like this one,, watched a lot of you tube videos and i am almost 100% i have a parasitic draw happening. I have to charge battery 100% about 2-3 days, battery is usually at 50 - 85% when i hook up charger.

I have not reset the BCM since i last did about a month ago. My car has not started at least 3 or 4 times since the last reset. I am at the point now i just put car on charger every other day.

I have done my own test for parasitic draw last week. I am not very mechanically inclined at this point in my life, but i tried this:

Found out where the 3 fuse boxes were.... Parked car, opened the driver's side and passenger side doors (manually latched those doors) so i could get to the fuse boxes without having to open doors once i started doing test. Turned off everything, unplugged anything that was plugged in, put key fobs a long way away from car. locked and armed security system and let sit for 2 hours. Hooked up multimeter in series with battery and got a reading of almost 4 amps. (As soon as i touched both leads of multimeter i can hear what sounds like a motor engaging from the car). I honestly don't think that is supposed to happen, none of the videos i watch showed that at all. I get a reading of about 4 amps constantly; it does not drop or fluctuate that much. I start pulling blocks of 4 or 5 fuses at a time once i get to the inside of the car, because i can't see meter from there, and I'm by myself. My meter kept turning itself off so i kept having to turn on/off and play with the leads again to get reading, again each time the 4amp draw and this motor sound each and every time i move or adjust the leads. Took me about an hour to go thru all 3 fuse boxes and the draw never went away. I am at my wits end.

I made an appointment with the car dealer for October 3rd. They told me car is not covered now. I told them this is the same problem that i took it to them in June of this year and that the warranty was still active then. He told me ford wont honor this for warranty because it is now past the date. I don't know what options i have at this point to get ford to fix this. I think it's coming 100% out of my pocket now. I just want it fixed now, with the cold season fast approaching i need this fixed before fall and winter get in full swing. If you can't help solve this mystery, I am hoping that someone can tell me how to dispute to ford and talk, or to write them to get them to honor warranty and fix this?

Thank you so much
Welcome to the forum. I merged your thread with one of the existing threads on this issue. Have a look at some of the other posts for possible help. Hopefully you can find a solution to this issue.
 
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