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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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I have done my own test for parasitic draw last week. I am not very mechanically inclined at this point in my life, but i tried this:

Found out where the 3 fuse boxes were.... Parked car, opened the driver's side and passenger side doors (manually latched those doors) so i could get to the fuse boxes without having to open doors once i started doing test. Turned off everything, unplugged anything that was plugged in, put key fobs a long way away from car. locked and armed security system and let sit for 2 hours. Hooked up multimeter in series with battery and got a reading of almost 4 amps. (As soon as i touched both leads of multimeter i can hear what sounds like a motor engaging from the car). I honestly don't think that is supposed to happen, none of the videos i watch showed that at all. I get a reading of about 4 amps constantly; it does not drop or fluctuate that much. I start pulling blocks of 4 or 5 fuses at a time once i get to the inside of the car, because i can't see meter from there, and I'm by myself. My meter kept turning itself off so i kept having to turn on/off and play with the leads again to get reading, again each time the 4amp draw and this motor sound each and every time i move or adjust the leads. Took me about an hour to go thru all 3 fuse boxes and the draw never went away. I am at my wits end.
You'd need to leave the doors closed and wait about 15 minutes each time the multimeter (reading current) is disconnected and "breaks" the circuit. There's a timer in the BCM that activates and supplies power to the light circuits for that amount of time.

Monitoring the charge current using ForScan would be a good idea. It will tell you what it thinks the battery SOC (state of charge) is, the current flow etc.

Carefully check over the battery terminal leads - especially the negative which has the BMS sensor- for any corrosion, tightness etc.

Other common electrical type problems can be from intermittent mega fuses in the fuse box on the front of the battery cover and loose earth at the engine bay strut tower.
 

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Thank you for the reply.

I manually latched the door, by moving the locking mechanism closed. That let me leave doors open while running tests. No light were on inside the car.

You mention a forescan tool, that is not an option for me. I do not have access to that.

One thing I had read that I did not do was use a 30 amp jumper wire hookup when using my multi meter in series connection with the battery. Not sure if they would matter?

I went to an automotive shop last night and had them reset the BMS with that tool. Alot of people commented on other posts that they did trust the DIY method of resetting the BMS. fingers crossed it was that simple, but I doubt it.

Negative battery cable looked good, I'm sure it's original, so that is the next thing I'll try when it won't start, I'll replace the cable and reset bms.
 

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I went to an automotive shop last night and had them reset the BMS with that tool. Alot of people commented on other posts that they did trust the DIY method of resetting the BMS. fingers crossed it was that simple, but I doubt it.

Negative battery cable looked good, I'm sure it's original, so that is the next thing I'll try when it won't start, I'll replace the cable and reset bms.
When you say you had the BMS reset I assume this is a new battery and it was not reset originally?
 

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New battery, purchased about a 2 weeks ago. I did a diy method of resetting the bms. Last night I charged battery to 100% to it down to a shop to have it set with forescan tool.

Car started both times today, got home put on charger to check battery percentage, it was at 65%, so testing the bms did not fix issue
 

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New battery, purchased about a 2 weeks ago. I did a diy method of resetting the bms. Last night I charged battery to 100% to it down to a shop to have it set with forescan tool.

Car started both times today, got home put on charger to check battery percentage, it was at 65%, so testing the bms did not fix issue
I apologize for stating the obvious but you don't have anything like a phone or dashcam plugged into the 12v port do you?
Just trying to cover all bases. :)
 

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Ok...as mentioned earlier did you check the connection from the negative cable on the strut tower for tightness as often this connection appears tight but you can move the connection behind the fastening bolt on the tower.
 
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I noticed tonight that the electrical tape on the positive battery cable next to the terminal is melting...... you think I have something wrong with the cable? Would it be that simple? Guess I will buy positive and negative cables and replace.
 

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I noticed tonight that the electrical tape on the positive battery cable next to the terminal is melting...... you think I have something wrong with the cable? Would it be that simple? Guess I will buy positive and negative cables and replace.
Be prepared for the 2-pin connector for the BMS on the ground cable at the battery to be corroded. Replacements are available, the Ford one cost as much as the huge ground/BMS cable from O’Reilly. Take care to get polarization correct, the repair part does not color code the wires due to multiple uses.
 
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