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Discussion Starter #101
I'm having trouble completing the evap ODB test (it's the only one left outstanding) but I'll keep trying.
I've noticed the FTP reads between -1kpa and -1.5kpa constantly with engine off... that seems odd since it should read 0. I've even pushed the refuel "caps" in to equalize the pressure, still -1kpa so I'd say the FTP sensor is reading out of specs.

I have two questions

1. Does it really require to drop the tank to access the sensor - is there no access panel under rear seats?
2. What PN is the FTP? I found only the connectors online which is very odd.
Where is your signature with all your vehicle specs? See mine below as an example.

This is like asking “how do I do xxxx on my computer” without telling us if it’s Mac, Windows, or windows XP, vista, 7, 10 etc.

Sorry about being blunt but this gets really old from folks asking technical questions.
 

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Ah didn't realize that was the norm. Added proper signature :cool:

To reiterate

1. Does it really require to drop the tank to access the sensor - is there no access panel under rear seats?
2. What PN is the FTP? I found only the connectors online which is very odd.
 

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I wonder if this can also cause a p0456 code? I have cleaned my gas filler and keep getting the code.
 

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Hello;

I'm a new owner of a 2017 2.0 Ecoboost AWD Escape with 80,000 km on the clock.

I've actually barely driven the car because it threw a P1450 code within 24 hours of my having collected it from the Chrysler dealer where I bought it used, and it's currently at the Chrysler dealership so they can sort the problem. This is the second visit. The first time they merely cleared the code and chalked it up to a poor seal at the filler. We all wish that were the case.

Here is the thing;

When the CEL lit the first time there were no operating issues at all. I scanned the codes using my wireless dongle and it showed the P1450 as well as a P0131 and a P2196 (both of which are O2 sensor related). When the serviceman scanned it he says he only saw the P1450 code, which he cleared and gave then gave the car back to me.

Question 1 is whether the a vent issue could also trip a couple of O2 sensor codes.

Only an hour or two after picking the car up my wife was driving the car and she got the buzzing/grinding noise from the tank and the car started bucking and stumbling. She parked it for a half hour after which it started and ran ok, but the the CEL was lit. She delivered the car to the dealer and that's where it is now.

So - question 2: is the bucking and stumbling a symptom of a bad purge solenoid, or a bad canister vent valve, or could it be either (or both)?

To my mind, the stumbling indicates a vacuum leak which would happen if the vent valve was stuck open and the computer opened the purge valve looking to create negative pressure in the tank. If the vent valve was operating normally, a stuck open purge valve would eventually cause a negative pressure in the tank and everything would run fine wouldn't it?

I ask because the service manager already says he suspects the vent valve is a problem and I think he will *freak out* when he finds out he has to drop the subframe to make this repair. I kind of think they may even will balk at the job, leaving me to do it myself.

Let's not get into a whole discussion about how they have to take the car back etc. I'd like to keep the discussion strictly technical please. I've read up on the laws in my province and they aren't legally required to anything for me so I'm relying on their good will and my own sparkling personality to see this through.

This could get ugly for ol' Jasp.

Let me know if my thinking is right please.

Thanks

Jasper

North Vancouver
 

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OK - so I just read an article which answers my questions...sort of. The fuel tank needs to run under a slightly negative pressure. The P1450 code is an excessive vacuum error.

link to article:

w3.motor.com/magazine-summary/fords-evap-system-operation-testing

Sorry my post count isn't high enough yet to link the article


This means that either the vent valve is stuck closed, or the vent line is blocked, or the purge valve is stuck open. Hopefully for me and the tech it is the latter - because that's a relatively easy under-hood fix.

The question remains though why the car was bucking and stumbling during this excessive vacuum event. Is it because the fuel pump could not draw fuel from the tank ? And why would a faulty gas filler seal also cause a P1450 as has been described in this thread. Wouldn't a poor seal at the filler present as a gross leak ?

Any knowledge here is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
If yours is stumbling right after you fill up that is good, in a way. That might just be your purge valve. If it’s stumbling all the time that’s bad.
 

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All, just got thrown code P144C yesterday. 48k miles on my 2016 2.0L Titanium.

First thing I did was clean the cas cap gasket, and have now reset the code, to see whether it gets thrown again.

Quick question to all that have changed the Evap Purge valve (part CV6Z-9D289-R, you know, the thing that looks as if Spiderman decided to use Escapes for practice).

Is the valve itself able to be removed, and then replaced, without the rigmarole of replacing the actual hoses, or is it permanently attached to the new hoses. It would save a ton of time replacing it.

Thanks in advance...Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #108
I changed the whole assembly and it wasn't easy. Not sure if you can change just the purge valve. Here's the part number from mine. If you look up the part number and do some research maybe it can be changed.
 

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I changed the whole assembly and it wasn't easy. Not sure if you can change just the purge valve. Here's the part number from mine. If you look up the part number and do some research maybe it can be changed.
I've googled the living "s" out of the code, the actual part, and no one seems to metion anything about replacing just the valve itself. Can't seem to find any site also that sells only the valve, so I am guessing that the tubes must be permanently attached.

Eric
 

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I changed the whole assembly and it wasn't easy. Not sure if you can change just the purge valve. Here's the part number from mine. If you look up the part number and do some research maybe it can be changed.
Well, what do you know...going to give this a shot first, before ripping off all the parts necessary to change all the tubes:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Ford-purifying-exhaust-steam-solenoid-valve-OEM-BV61-9G866-AA-0280142500/192475786334?epid=28016166091&hash=item2cd0736c5e:g:6asAAOSwheZan5iC

Worse that can happen is I'm out $25, but will still have feelings in my hands ;).
@HayaiKuruma - Thanks for the photo...after googling that part number, turns out there was another thread posted on here:
https://www.fordescape.org/forum/engine-technical-discussion/75697-vapor-canister-purge-valve-ford-part-cv6z-9d289-r.html

fleabay says there have been 36 of these sold, so others must have gotten the same idea.

Eric
 

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Worse that can happen is I'm out $25, but will still have feelings in my hands ;).
I'm out 25 bucks...Part came; tried to get the hoses separated, and couldn't, even after applying heat. Didn't feel comfortable cutting hoses, since there isn't much give.


Oh well, thanks again for the part number.


E
 

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this info is for the Canadians
Your drive train warranty is 5 years or 100,000 kilometers
the purge valve problem should be covered on you drive train warranty
go to a Ford or Lincoln dealer
 

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Hi all


Got the amazing P1450 on my 2013 2.0 2WD with 69K miles and, of course, about 3 weeks prior to the inspection deadline here in the Atlanta area. Can't register for 2019 with a check engine light! youtube suggested the cowl had to come off but I'm here to say that the multi-tube/purge part was replaced in about 40 minutes without the cowl removal. Just the air box and intake runner on the back of the engine had to come out. Those connectors unlock relatively easily with a long screwdriver and I was able to handle the rear one by reaching over the still warm engine with left hand and through the right of the engine (where the tube runs) with the right hand. Light is OFF and no more stalling at fill-ups! So, not a multi-hour job necessarily. Now, the car is in Atlanta so no corrosion and it's garaged - all the connections were clean and came off pretty easily. Nice to have a cheap repair...good luck to y'all and MERRY CHRISTMAS!
Marc/Atlanta
 

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No-start after filling with gas solved

All,

Symptoms - at 69K miles, the car would crank but not start immediately after filling the tank. After 4 or 5 cranks, it would eventually start but run very rough for about 30 seconds until it would smooth out - then run just fine. Disturbing and unsettling. Never threw a check-engine light or code. After that, it would start perfectly every time until the next fill-up, then the same routine.

After reading through the threads on this forum, I bought the front evaporator purge valve assembly from the local Ford dealer. It was $ 127.00 including tax. Since there are several letter-suffix designations, I took the VIN to the parts manager. The match was a CV6Z 9D289-T for my 2013 Escape 1.6L EcoBoost with All-Wheel-Drive. Yes, it looks like spaghetti.

I had to remove the front wipers, front cowling (do a YouTube search for replacing the battery), removed the air intake filter housing, and engine cover. It was about a 2-hour job start to finish, and I'm not a pro. Don't even try this without the orange-handled hook-tools mentioned on this forum and in some YouTube videos. They cost less than $2.00 at Harbor Freight and they are invaluable for this job. The hardest part was removing the old green and white clips. You will have to break them off with the hook tools; don't be afraid. The new evaporator purge valve assembly will have new clips on it. The hardest coupling to reach is the one on the driver's side at the bottom. Rotate it gently about 30 degrees with one hand while you break off the clips with the hook tool in your other hand.

Replacement of the front evaporator valve assembly immediately and completely solved the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #115
All,

Symptoms - at 69K miles, the car would crank but not start immediately after filling the tank. After 4 or 5 cranks, it would eventually start but run very rough for about 30 seconds until it would smooth out - then run just fine. Disturbing and unsettling. Never threw a check-engine light or code. After that, it would start perfectly every time until the next fill-up, then the same routine.

After reading through the threads on this forum, I bought the front evaporator purge valve assembly from the local Ford dealer. It was $ 127.00 including tax. Since there are several letter-suffix designations, I took the VIN to the parts manager. The match was a CV6Z 9D289-T for my 2013 Escape 1.6L EcoBoost with All-Wheel-Drive. Yes, it looks like spaghetti.

I had to remove the front wipers, front cowling (do a YouTube search for replacing the battery), removed the air intake filter housing, and engine cover. It was about a 2-hour job start to finish, and I'm not a pro. Don't even try this without the orange-handled hook-tools mentioned on this forum and in some YouTube videos. They cost less than $2.00 at Harbor Freight and they are invaluable for this job. The hardest part was removing the old green and white clips. You will have to break them off with the hook tools; don't be afraid. The new evaporator purge valve assembly will have new clips on it. The hardest coupling to reach is the one on the driver's side at the bottom. Rotate it gently about 30 degrees with one hand while you break off the clips with the hook tool in your other hand.

Replacement of the front evaporator valve assembly immediately and completely solved the problem.
Great to hear and nice write-up.

It’s so nice to see someone due their due diligence, then post on the forum. Well done for a first post.
 
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Wanted to thank this thread for saving me a few hundred dollars. A few weeks ago I went to start up after filling the gas tank and it took several attempts, even died a few times after successful turnovers. Check Engine light threw a code for Upstream O2 sensor running rich, probably just from giving it too much gas trying to get it going. Once it got running smoothly, no problem, until the next refuel. It wasn't as bad the second time, but still disconcerting.

Found this thread which sounded like my symptoms, had a second CEL with the P1450 code and decided to order a new vapor canister purge valve hose assembly from O'Reilly and grab a set of the orange pick tools from Harbor Freight. As stated by several others previously, getting the original clips off was the hardest part. The two part system keeps it on good, but makes it a chore to get off. You pretty much have to break them. The new assembly went on smooth, mainly due to the alternate clip design on the Dorman brand.

Decided to change spark plugs too while I had easy access to them. I did remove the air intake hose and the plastic section of the intake that sits above the spark plugs. That made getting to the back hose connection a little easier.

After it was all back together I ran down to the gas station to test fill and it fired up no issue. CEL turned off a couple days later, and I ran the tank to near empty before the next fill up as a final test. Been going good for over a week now.

Here is the part I ordered from O'Reilly.
 

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My Escape is currently in the shop for the P1450 code and I have already purchased the evap solenoid harness (my shop and I have a relationship) He phoned me a bit ago and said I need the plastic tube the airbox hose connects to since one of the hose fitting has cracked and broken off. I am searching for the part but I keep getting hits for K&N and such. What would be the correct part terminology so I can find the proper piece? Thanks in advance!
 

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This was posted on another site. I wanted to get this out there so that the awareness level is started. Look out for DTC P1450.

"Whenever you put gas in it, the car starts and them immediately stalls. It takes multiple attempts to start it. Once it starts, it runs fine and starts and stops fine. It throws code P1450, which indicates excessive vacuum in the evaporative system. Now in most vehicles, including older escapes, this isn't a big deal. Its actually a common issue, and is a known issue for Fords. Usually this is caused by a bad purge solenoid, or simply a clogged/dirty evap canister or hoses. You can literally replace the entire system in this car for a couple hundred dollars in parts. On the escape there is actually a replaceable pre-filter for the canister, and you can usually take these things apart and clean them out. The problem is that Ford in its infinite wisdom decided to locate the evap box, filter, and vent solenoid in a place under the car that can only be reached by removing the entire rear subframe. This involves disconnecting and removing the rear brakes, suspension, drivetrain, and any wiring from the rear of the car. In the past evap canisters were often located under the hood and when they were located under the vehicle, they were accessible. This was a simple job I was hoping to do myself, but unfortunately, it cannot be done without a lift and an extended transmission jack, plus hours of teardown, brake work, etc."


I have looked under the rear end and sure enough, its buried way deep in there. I stuck my iphone up in there last night to get a picture. For those of you with workshop manuals or experience please chime in. I'm still looking for a purge valve in the engine bay. The workshop manual is very vague and Tasca parts or motorcraft doesnt even list one, so I'm wondering if this new "system" even has a traditional purge valve to check your vacuum. Someone told me that even if there is one in the engine bay, you have to take off the intake to get to it. That kinda makes it hard to check your vacuum. Thanks Ford.



Sorry for the long thread.
this is exactly my car right now, today. grrrrrrrr. If this is a known problem, why no recall? ????
 

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this is exactly my car right now, today. grrrrrrrr. If this is a known problem, why no recall? ????
A "recall" by definition is for safety related faults, that could result in injury or loss of life; restraint systems, critical weld defects, fuel leaks etc. There may be a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) or Field Service Action (FSA) that pertains to this problem. TSB's are internal updates from Ford to their franchise service departments and cover fixes to known problems that don't rise to the level of a recall. FSA's are notices sent out to vehicle owners concerning updates to vehicle hardware and/or software that can improve systems performance or prolong vehicle life, but are not considered life endangering.
 
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