[benjilafouine]

On my escape 2014 4WD, I ran into an issue 10 days ago. Since the transmission park recall, Ford recommended that we use the parking brake until the fix has been applied. The fix has been applied but I kept the habit of using the parking brake.

About ten days ago, my hand brake got jammed. I was a bit surprised because the rotors and pads were replaced in September and with only a few thousand miles on it. So I took it out of the driveway and in the street, I tried to pump the brakes and move the hand brakes several times. Nothing would do so after trying real hard at 10 mph only (tried it for no more than a couple thousand feet), I brought the Escape in the garage. Just that five minutes of trying to get them free made the rear left calliper overheat a bit. It was very hot with a bit of smoke.

I removed the wheel and realized that the hand brake mechanism was stuck. Gave a little nudge on it with a hammer and right away it freed up. Since I was in a rush (literally a matter of life and death), I cleaned the mechanism with brake cleaner and applied some anti rust liquid grease on it, put the wheel back on and left in a hurry. Passenger side was OK, not even hot.

Now ten days later, the rotor/pads that overheat a bit is more dirty than the passenger side, like a bit of black soot on the rotor. It is definitely not stuck anymore and no overheating anymore. I cleaned the car outside today in the cold (I have a heated shed with running water in it and a hose) to remove slush and sand and clean the wheel wells and parked in the garage.

I am planning to remove the wheel tomorrow and clean everything but how can I check and clean the inner of the pads without removing them. can I just remove the two retainers in the back of the calliper and take it out with the pads still attached and clean everything?

That brake seems to be working just fine, no vibrations, no overheat, no squeaks but I’m wondering why they are a bit dirtier than the other side. maybe that temporary grease I applied to the hand brake mechanism? I bought some grease and at the minimum I was thinking of cleaning the assembly, put some new grease on the pins, clean the hand brake and apply proper grease on it as well.

Any recommendations? I assume that if the calliper was broken that I would be getting some overheating, right? I don’t want to disassemble the pads because I am missing the rotating tool to push the piston back.

Thanks for helping.

 

[jpohlman]

The parking brake uses the high tension spring on the caliper, it's entirely mechanical and partially winds out the caliper.
Either the cable is binding or the caliper piston isn't moving correctly in the bore and is jamming.

 

[benjilafouine]

The parking brake uses the high tension spring on the caliper, it's entirely mechanical and partially winds out the caliper.
Either the cable is binding or the caliper piston isn't moving correctly in the bore and is jamming.

It’s not jammed anymore. No overheating. I touch the wheel and rotor everyday since then. It was some kind of freak incident. Just that the rotor is more dirty than the passenger side one. Don’t know why yet. This is why I want to have a look at it inside my heated garage (it is like 12 degrees F outside here with two feet of snow). I cleaned the car with a warm water hose outside today before the cold came and put it right away inside (or it would become an icicle). Now I have the time to look at it. I had to take out my summer outside for the weekend. There was no way I could look at it again before today.

 

[benjilafouine]

No replies here except for one but I am reporting my findings.

On the brake that jammed, it was missing the rubber protective caps over the locking pins. I am starting to think that sand and salt somehow removed the lubricating grease from these pins and caused the hand brake to get stuck on the driver side (the side where the protective caps were missing). I had the brakes redone in September and somehow, those caps were not replaced in the process. Not cool.

If I’m not wrong, the calliper pins are designed so that the calliper and pads have a little gap around the rotor (this is why these pins are made like that so that they cannot be over screwed). The two pins were full of sand and all the lubricant was gone. That might have affected movement of the calliper, causing the hand brake plate to get stuck (and maybe the hand brake mechanism wasn’t lubricated correctly as well).

So I replaced both pins because one of the pin had a thread damage (blame it on my socket), lubricated them properly and installed new protective caps. The passenger side back wheel had the caps on so it should be OK, but yet, I added some lubricant on the hand brake mechanism last week just in case.

I am learning mechanics at a blazing speed and I may end up doing my own repairs provided that I don’t need a lift.

 

[MOONRNR]

Since the transmission park recall, Ford recommended that we use the parking brake until the fix has been applied. The fix has been applied but I kept the habit of using the parking brake.

One always uses the PARKING BRAKE. It prevents possible roll-away, how the rear pads are continuously adjusted and keeps pressure off the PARKING PAWL in the transmission.

 

[benjilafouine]

One always uses the PARKING BRAKE. It prevents possible roll-away, how the rear pads are continuously adjusted and keeps pressure off the PARKING PAWL in the transmission.

Over the years I have frequently used my parking brake because I tow a Sea-Doo and my every day trailer. I would also use it when parked in hills. Since last year it was full time because of the recall so I can safely say that the parking brake was frequently used.

I still wonder why it jammed, especially that new rotors and pads (PowerStop) were installed last September, but not by me.

 

[MOONRNR]

I still wonder why it jammed, especially that new rotors and pads (PowerStop) were installed last September, but not by me.

As mentioned, a sticking/dragging brake cable or a sticking caliper. When replacing the pads on this vehicle, the rear caliper pistons need to be turned back into the caliper. It takes a special service tool. If a TECH just pushes the piston in as does the front caliper, it will disable the self adjust feature and the caliper has to be rebuilt or replaced.

Another consideration is that the brake fluid be flushed every two years as old contaminated fluid will cause sticking pistons and a host of other problems, most importantly the contamination of the ABS HCU (hydraulic control unit) which can cause partial/non-release of fluid pressure dragging in lines.

 

[benjilafouine]

As mentioned, a sticking/dragging brake cable or a sticking caliper. When replacing the pads on this vehicle, the rear caliper pistons need to be turned back into the caliper. It takes a special service tool. If a TECH just pushes the piston in as does the front caliper, it will disable the self adjust feature and the caliper has to be rebuilt or replaced.

Another consideration is that the brake fluid be flushed every two years as old contaminated fluid will cause sticking pistons and a host of other problems, most importantly the contamination of the ABS HCU (hydraulic control unit) which can cause partial/non-release of fluid pressure dragging in lines.

Brake fluid was flushed and the job was done by a mechanics in his garage because I don’t have a lift nor all the experience and tools to do the work. I actually helped flushing the brakes as well. I can only suppose that the job was done correctly. I know that these pistons have to be turned and I’m the mechanics did it, having decades of experience. But yet, caps were missing.

 

[MOONRNR]

Brake fluid was flushed and the job was done by a mechanics in his garage because I don’t have a lift nor all the experience and tools to do the work. I actually helped flushing the brakes as well. I can only suppose that the job was done correctly. I know that these pistons have to be turned and I’m the mechanics did it, having decades of experience. But yet, caps were missing.

Did he use a scan tool to initiate and bleed the ABS HCU?

What 'caps' are you referring to? I seemed to have missed that in your post(s)?

 

[benjilafouine]

Did he use a scan tool to initiate and bleed the ABS HCU?

What 'caps' are you referring to? I seemed to have missed that in your post(s)?

The two caps over the calliper pins. We have lots of salt and sand around here and they were missing. I had to clean all that, put some new lubricant and new caps.

As for bleeding the brakes, I believe it was only done the good old fashioned way: by gravity. The fluid was contaminated and 10 days ago when I checked the fluid, I found out that they was still a bit of new contamination.

I’m due soon for an oil change and a transmission drain and fill procedure. I’ll add a second brake bleeding procedure while I’m there. That will be done at the dealer because my mechanics retired a few years ago and he was only still working part time until last summer. The brake fluid is not severely contaminated now (not like last year) but another bleeding procedure should fix the issue. I saw that there are machines for that.

 

[MOONRNR]

The two caps over the calliper pins. We have lots of salt and sand around here and they were missing. I had to clean all that, put some new lubricant and new caps.

As for bleeding the brakes, I believe it was only done the good old fashioned way: by gravity. The fluid was contaminated and 10 days ago when I checked the fluid, I found out that they was still a bit of new contamination.

OK ... gotcha ...

As for gravity, manual or pressure bleeding an ABS SYSTEM, there are isolated reservoirs within the HCU that are not opened unless the ABS motor activates or is activated with a scan tool. If that isolated fluid is permitted to stay within those reservoirs, it will contaminate the HCU and can present all kinds of problems down the road.

Same as when replacing pads and forcing the pistons back into the caliper housing. You want to open the bleeder so as not to force that burnt fluid back into the brake system and HCU.

REAR CALIPER SLIDING PIN SVC SET - CV6Z 2C150-A

​

 

[benjilafouine]

OK ... gotcha ...

As for gravity, manual or pressure bleeding an ABS SYSTEM, there are isolated reservoirs within the HCU that are not opened unless the ABS motor activates or is activated with a scan tool. If that isolated fluid is permitted to stay within those reservoirs, it will contaminate the HCU and can present all kinds of problems down the road.

Same as when replacing pads and forcing the pistons back into the caliper housing. You want to open the bleeder so as not to force that burnt fluid back into the brake system and HCU.

Thanks. I’ll leave it to the dealer or competent garage at this point because I’m lacking the tools. My retired mechanics may have been a bit too much out of fashion.

 

[MOONRNR]

Thanks. I’ll leave it to the dealer or competent garage at this point because I’m lacking the tools. My retired mechanics may have been a bit too much out of fashion.

...YOU'RE QUICK ...

Just wanted to help and not correct you.

 

[benjilafouine]

...YOU'RE QUICK ...

Just wanted to help and not correct you.

No worries, the thought hadn’t crossed my mind. I really think that my older mechanics hasn’t caught up on newer technologies. He’s good with my old Ford Focus 2003 but I wouldn’t ask him to fix a new car, not even draining transmission fluid. Also last year, he was trying too hard to develop his arms muscles with some beer cans…

I am in front of my computer tonight watching… well if you can guess… mechanics videos and tutorials…

 

[MOONRNR]

Also last year, he was trying too hard to develop his arms muscles with some beer cans…

Ah,,, The olde 12oz curl workout. Been there and done that in my early honky-tonk years.

I think it started early as my doctor told me once to force fluids and get plenty of rest. I stopped and bought two cases of beer, went home and drank until I passed out.

Old age cured that ...

I am going to tell you, you have to keep current on TECH as these dealers are definitely not or just being dishonest as the service writer is paid on commission and a cash work order is pure gravy..

While reading, SEARCH FORscan. Cheap way out.

 

[benjilafouine]

Ah,,, The olde 12oz curl workout. Been there and done that in my early honky-tonk years.

I think it started early as my doctor told me once to force fluids and get plenty of rest. I stopped and bought two cases of beer, went home and drank until I passed out.

Old age cured that ...

I am going to tell you, you have to keep current on TECH as these dealers are definitely not or just being dishonest as the service writer is paid on commission and a cash work order is pure gravy..

While reading, SEARCH FORscan. Cheap way out.

I know, everyone is telling me about forscan. However, I was the victim of a car accident in 2003 and even if I wanted to do all the hard physical work by myself, I couldn’t but at least, I can challenge them. Last visit to the dealer went relatively well but I noticed one month after that they broke some wheel well pins/clips when replacing the control arms bushing in the back. They’ll have to fix that before I authorize any additional work… And they know me: I am an automobile maintenance and detailing freak, which I can do at my own rhythm.

As you say, they pay cheap money with inexperienced mechanics and there’s always something not right in the end.

Hard to post some links here but I think these photos from my Focus 2003 and Escape 2014 speak by themselves. The Focus is only a summer car however.

20220703_020651695_iOS.jpg

JPG Image

1drv.ms

20220706_210931160_iOS.jpg

JPG Image

1drv.ms

And always detailing the Escape in full winter:

IMG_4293.jpg

JPG Image

1drv.ms

 

[MOONRNR]

If the fasteners were damaged and were not replaced, it makes you wonder about the quality of the repair itself.

TECHS are now in teams and those teams use TECHS of various training and skill (training - pay) levels. While the team leader is supposed to look over all work performed, you know as well as I do how that works. It also depends on the SERVICE DEPT of any particular dealership.

They slam the work out as they are more interested in making money as they are payed by flat rate and not time clock.

 

[benjilafouine]

If the fasteners were damaged and were not replaced, it makes you wonder about the quality of the repair itself.

TECHS are now in teams and those teams use TECHS of various training and skill (training - pay) levels. While the team leader is supposed to look over all work performed, you know as well as I do how that works. It also depends on the SERVICE DEPT of any particular dealership.

They slam the work out as they are more interested in making money as they are payed by flat rate and not time clock.

I’m wondering too. My experience is that some mechanics don’t pay attention to details. Some clients won’t even notice but since I’m a perfectionist myself, I’m hard to impress.

 

[MOONRNR]

I’m a perfectionist myself, I’m hard to impress...

I know the feeling ...

I am CDO (correct alphabetical order of OCD).

 

[benjilafouine]

I know the feeling ...

I am CDO (correct alphabetical order of OCD).

I am a hyperactive and a perfectionist person.