[murcod]

The two caps over the calliper pins. We have lots of salt and sand around here and they were missing. I had to clean all that, put some new lubricant and new caps.

That's probably the issue- especially with snow/ salt/ sand.

I had some imbecile (qualified mechanic) service my brakes on an older car and they threw away the rubber caps that go on the bleed nipples. I went back and asked for them and they said " We don't bother putting any of them back on- they do nothing. They would have been thrown in the bin." Idiots. Water gets in the nipple opening and causes corrosion, binding it in the calliper.

 

[benjilafouine]

I am reopening that thread.

So I had this hand brake issue that got it stuck in January. Hand brake cable was loose big time. Replaced the caliper pins and got the piston free.

When I went to the dealer for the oil change last week, I asked them to do a brake service to make sure they were fine (and especially the driver side back brake that had gotten stuck). They said all good to go, everything OK. When I got out of the dealer the hand brake was very tight and working just fine.

Yesterday, the hand brake got loose again. Nothing got stuck and the hand brake works but I need to pull all the way up to operate it despite the rotors and pads being almost new.

Is there an easy way for me to make the hand brake more tight (like shortening the cable)? I can definitely remove the wheels but I haven't found any good procedure on Youtube.

 

[MOONRNR]

I am reopening that thread.

So I had this hand brake issue that got it stuck in January. Hand brake cable was loose big time. Replaced the caliper pins and got the piston free.

When I went to the dealer for the oil change last week, I asked them to do a brake service to make sure they were fine (and especially the driver side back brake that had gotten stuck). They said all good to go, everything OK. When I got out of the dealer the hand brake was very tight and working just fine.

Yesterday, the hand brake got loose again. Nothing got stuck and the hand brake works but I need to pull all the way up to operate it despite the rotors and pads being almost new.

Is there an easy way for me to make the hand brake more tight (like shortening the cable)? I can definitely remove the wheels but I haven't found any good procedure on Youtube.

!!! STOP THE PRESSES !!!
​

On the brake that jammed, it was missing the rubber protective caps over the locking pins. I am starting to think that sand and salt somehow removed the lubricating grease from these pins and caused the hand brake to get stuck on the driver side (the side where the protective caps were missing). I had the brakes redone in September and somehow, those caps were not replaced in the process. Not cool.

If I’m not wrong, the calliper pins are designed so that the calliper and pads have a little gap around the rotor (this is why these pins are made like that so that they cannot be over screwed). The two pins were full of sand and all the lubricant was gone. That might have affected movement of the calliper, causing the hand brake plate to get stuck (and maybe the hand brake mechanism wasn’t lubricated correctly as well).

So I replaced both pins because one of the pin had a thread damage (blame it on my socket), lubricated them properly and installed new protective caps. The passenger side back wheel had the caps on so it should be OK, but yet, I added some lubricant on the hand brake mechanism last week just in case.

How in the world did I miss that? That is most likely the whole problem that and you living in salt country.

Your system is what is called a FLOATING CALIPER whereas it slides on those two pins. If they are frozen and/or not service correctly, the caliper will hang/freeze on those pins. Someone did you a big mis-service.

I showed the service parts. All of that should have been replaced with the brake job (especially that far north). If it has frozen again, that constant drag will burn the pads and rotor and depending on how hot the caliper(s) got, will boil the brake fluid in the caliper reservoir and possibly cause the self-adjusting feature to fail.

When you retract the piston and install the pads and caliper, while the piston is contracted, you grab the caliper and see if it slides freely in and out.

Brother, I am sorry. CRS is here.

There is also a cable adjustment and the adjuster is located in the console.

​

 

[benjilafouine]

!!! STOP THE PRESSES !!!
​

How in the world did I miss that? That is most likely the whole problem that and you living in salt country.

Your system is what is called a FLOATING CALIPER whereas it slides on those two pins. If they are frozen and/or not service correctly, the caliper will hang/freeze on those pins. Someone did you a big mis-service.

I showed the service parts. All of that should have been replaced with the brake job (especially that far north). If it has frozen again, that constant drag will burn the pads and rotor and depending on how hot the caliper(s) got, will boil the brake fluid in the caliper reservoir and possibly cause the self-adjusting feature to fail.

When you retract the piston and install the pads and caliper, while the piston is contracted, you grab the caliper and see if it slides freely in and out.

Brother, I am sorry. CRS is here.

There is also a cable adjustment and the adjuster is located in the console.

​

Yes indeed someone screwed up in January and I had replaced the pins and put new plugs. The error wasn’t done by the dealer but from a retired friend mechanics.

The mechanism did not jammed but they’re still some slack on the cable. I fixed that on my Focus from the console.

I looked briefly for a video on how to fix it from the console but didn’t find one.

 

[MOONRNR]

I looked briefly for a video on how to fix it from the console but didn’t find one.

I have the procedure but it is in the WORKSHOP MANUAL and am not allowed to post from it here (copyright). Let me see if I can find a description and if not, I I can mail it to you.

Just make sure those rear calipers fully extract (with slack in cables) as the ratcheting system may have been damaged and if the cable(s) are tightened may exaberate the problem.

 

[benjilafouine]

I have the procedure but it is in the WORKSHOP MANUAL and am not allowed to post from it here (copyright). Let me see if I can find a description and if not, I I can mail it to you.

Just make sure those rear calipers fully extract (with slack in cables) as the ratcheting system may have been damaged and if the cable(s) are tightened may exaberate the problem.

Gee. The dealer checked them last week and they charged me 60 bucks. The hand brake does work but I hate that little slack on the hand brake. I tested them going downhill today and they were strong enough to stop the car. I inspected them in January, should be able to do the same again before doing anything. l also checked for overheating today: none.

 

[MOONRNR]

The dealer checked them last week and they charged me 60 bucks. The hand brake does work but I hate that little slack on the hand brake. I tested them going downhill today and they were strong enough to stop the car.

As long as you are satisfied they (calipers) are working correctly, you should be fine. The parking brake cable adj will be similar to the FUSION/FOCUS. The adjuster should be @ the ratchet within the center console.

 

[benjilafouine]

As long as you are satisfied they (calipers) are working correctly, you should be fine. The parking brake cable adj will be similar to the FUSION/FOCUS. The adjuster should be @ the ratchet within the center console.

I figured it could be the same. I just need to find how to remove some trim without breaking it.

 

[MOONRNR]

😬
​

Now wait a minute. FORD ESCAPE (US) went to ELECTRIC PARKING BRAKE in 2017. Yours being (CAN), they still used a cable system?

 

[benjilafouine]

😬
​

Now wait a minute. FORD ESCAPE (US) went to ELECTRIC PARKING BRAKE in 2017. Yours being (CAN), they still used a cable system?

Yes, because it’s a 2014. We also have these electric brakes on newer models. Complete craziness if you ask me. Totally useless.

 

[MOONRNR]

Yes, because it’s a 2014.

... hmmph ... That proves my reading comprehension is failing. I read through so many posts that 2017 must have flashed before my eyes.

Now let me ask you another question. When the caliper pistons were retracted, did he have the correct disc to turn them back in properly? When I did mine, the kit I have had forever did not have the correct size disc and there was no TOOL NO. in the WSM.

I finally found the correct disc @ FORD of EURO. It has pins measuring 32mm.

 

[benjilafouine]

... hmmph ... That proves my reading comprehension is failing. I read through so many posts that 2017 must have flashed before my eyes.

Now let me ask you another question. When the caliper pistons were retracted, did he have the correct disc to turn them back in properly? When I did mine, the kit I have had forever did not have the correct size disc and there was no TOOL NO. in the WSM.

I finally found the correct disc @ FORD of EURO. It has pins measuring 32mm.

That’s a good question. I saw that these pistons have to be turned, not pushed if I understand you correctly. I was not with my friend when he did them. However, when the Ford dealer check them last week, they said that the brakes were A1. Even the hand brake was tighter and 10 days later, it has become loose again (but it works OK if I pull a lot on it). I am due to remove the winter tires very soon, is there something I can look at when I remove the back wheels?

 

[MOONRNR]

(but it works OK if I pull a lot on it)

There is your answer right there. The calipers are adjusted with hand brake usage, If it seems to be getting tight and/or feeling tighter, the self-adjusting mechanisms should be working. Just make sure it will hold the car on an incline.

Let the board know how it goes in a few weeks.

 

[benjilafouine]

There is your answer right there. The calipers are adjusted with hand brake usage, If it seems to be getting tight and/or feeling tighter, the self-adjusting mechanisms should be working. Just make sure it will hold the car on an incline.

Let the board know how it goes in a few weeks.

Yes, it stops the car in an incline despite having some slack.

 

[benjilafouine]

There is your answer right there. The calipers are adjusted with hand brake usage, If it seems to be getting tight and/or feeling tighter, the self-adjusting mechanisms should be working. Just make sure it will hold the car on an incline.

Let the board know how it goes in a few weeks.

The answer was not there: fixed, not fixed, or maybe?

This slack in the hand brake was really making me nervous since I installed PowerStop brake last year and that I already experienced the back left wheel jammed in January. Yesterday after a 30 minutes drive, I touched the rotors and the driver side was definitely a bit warmer than the passenger side, leaving me worried.

Again the emergency brake spring was full of sand and manually testing revealed that the plate would not retract completely, enough to prevent to turn the rotor by hand (using the studs). The dealer said 10 days ago that they were fine. These guys owe me 60 bucks. If you want my opinion, this system is/was not appropriate for sanded roads up North.

I took lots of brake cleaner but didn't threw the empty can like Ray’s Rainman repairs… Even with that the plate would not go back all the way.

By looking at it very closely, I noticed that there is a o-ring seal between the plate and the spring assembly.

So, I took some AT-205 that is supposed to rejuvenate rubber and is the best stuff in the world as per Scotty Kilmer (I think he must be putting some in his coffee!). Then after many cycles the plate now comes back 99 percent.

I put the wheel back on with two nuts and brought the jack to let that soak and will retest tomorrow morning.

I’m wondering if the o-ring should not be replaced. Maybe the AT-205 will fix this for a long time.

One question:should I lubricate it if it works fine? Forget synthetic dielectric grease, it will catch all the sand again. What lubricant should I use? Is there the same mechanism on the passenger side? Didn’t look but obviously it’s working.

 

[MOONRNR]

Scotty Kilmer (I think he must be putting some in his coffee!)

I just had to come-back on this one. He reminds me of an old Italian woman waving his arms all over when he talks. I think he is from Brooklyn which will explain a lot.

 

[MOONRNR]

The answer was not there: fixed, not fixed, or maybe?

Sorry, I thought your description was that it was beginning to operate correctly.

If it was mine or a customer's car? I would put a set of reman calipers on it and ensure the brakes cables are not frozen or mis-adjusted (being in road salt country.

Something happened when the rear pads were installed.

As for lube, the calipers are sealed. If you put any type of lube on the housing, it is just going to collect road dirt (IMO). Same as the pins, they need to be sealed.

 

[MOONRNR]

... can I just remove the two retainers in the back of the calliper and take it out with the pads still attached and clean everything?

Yes, you can do that and/or remove the two caliper bracket retaining bolts and remove the caliper and mounting bracket for service. I would just do the caliper itself to save you a lot of grief. Just wedge something between the pads when you remove the caliper (maybe folded cardboard) to hopefully not have the pads hit the floor. They are not that hard to re-install if they do. Don't allow the caliper to hang on the brake hose.

Have you thought of just blasting everything with brake clean? Save you a whole lot of work.

 

[benjilafouine]

Yes, you can do that and/or remove the two caliper bracket retaining bolts and remove the caliper and mounting bracket for service. I would just do the caliper itself to save you a lot of grief. Just wedge something between the pads when you remove the caliper (maybe folded cardboard) to hopefully not have the pads hit the floor. They are not that hard to re-install if they do. Don't allow the caliper to hang on the brake hose.

Have you thought of just blasting everything with brake clean? Save you a whole lot of work.

I know the theory about removing the callipers and reinstalling them but I lack practice.

Also, I am 100% sure that the cable is fine as I can pull on it and retract it easily (there’s a little play).

I took the air compressor last night and kept blowing and it think it’s a case of excessive dirt or else the calliper has a wear problem but I had it operating correctly last night. I sprayed some lubricant at the o-ring level and stopped for the night. I’ll clean the whole thing again with brake cleaner and my compressor this morning and hopefully the issue was only excessive dirt. I am sure the dealer didn’t touch that. It doesn’t prevent the vehicle from operating but it could definitely wear the brakes a bit faster.

Obviously I’ll be checking the right side as well and hopefully I’ll be on my merry way. If I don’t pull the hand brake everything works fine…

 

[benjilafouine]

Just cleaned up all lubricant and penetrant on the hand brake mechanism. All good, so it really was excessive debris from our Quebec county side where they put sand instead of salt on secondary roads.

I think my friend mechanics put some lubricant there last fall when he installed the new brakes. When it got stuck in January, I cleaned it up but superficially because I had important family matters on my hands and I also added some lubricant on it.

Basically, the debris were stuck along with the o-ring.

I didn’t put anything back there this morning and will do the right side later today. I hope the issue is fixed. I didn’t replace the callipers last year because the vehicle only has 55k miles on it.