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I am wondering what this says about the ability of the battery to hold a charge when used for intermittent and short trips? Are you finding that the engine runs more frequently during periods of such use? In other words, will the intermittent and short trip scenario take sways some of the advantages of the hybrid?
I haven’t observed any difference in operation. I do use ECO mode exclusively.
 

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For those getting the message, do you use ECO mode? A little? A lot? Exclusively?
I always use ECO mode...exclusively.
 

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So today I drove 2.1 miles each way to the grocery store. However I left it in NORMAL instead of switching to ECO as I usually do. DID NOT get the message. ??
 

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I use eco mode almost exclusively.
I only get that message when it’s been sitting a week or more.
 

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I guess I have to join the party of those getting this message. I've had my hybrid Titanium for about 3 weeks, and I've gotten the message 3 times. The first two times I got it I thought I understood why; I had been sitting in my car in Accessory mode playing around with Sync3, looking at settings, etc., for at least 30 minutes. Since I leave my headlights on Auto, they came on when I opened the door, and since I didn't start the car, the lights stayed on (the first time I got the message...the next time I was smarter). So, it makes sense that the SOC was low.

The third time it happened was today, and the context makes no sense. The car had been sitting, unused, in the garage for several days (at least 3-4). Today I drive about 40 miles roundtrip on the highway, round trip. When I got home, I parked the car in the garage, pushed the start/stop button, got the screen showing the info (distance, mileage, etc.) for the current trip, so the car had to be off. I then went into the house. 10-15 minutes later my phone dinged and there was the message from the FordPass app.

After 40 almost entirely highway miles, the SOC had better have been damn good!

Given what others have said, should I just forget about it and get on with my (driving my nice new car) life?

It's too bad that there is no easy way to see the battery's SOC. In my 2007 Prius, it's right there on a big info screen.

(FYI...I drive in Eco mode exclusively, except the few times I've forgotten...darn those Ford engineers for not have the car remember which drive mode it was in when it was turned off)
 

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Forscan can monitor the SOC.
As for the notification, I’ve gotten it after it’s sat for just 2 days. Usually right after I have that the door open for 15 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
After towing our 2020 Hybrid behind a motorhome [Neutral Tow mode!] for 4 days; so very little actual driving (and no mileage added to the odo), but with a 12-14 volt charge line running from the motorhome to the car. We now get the message within minutes of shutting down the car.

We are using a smart charger that charges the car battery while being towed, if it needs it. I would think 3-4 hours charging each day / while being towed would have helped.

How much current can car be using while being towed!?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Update... (Sorry, long post)

We continue to get the low battery message every time the car's is turned off.

We were visiting family so we were able to borrow a car from them and give up our car for a few days.

We dropped our car off at a (different) Ford dealer to have an unrelated problem looked at, but mentioned the constant low battery messages.

We knew every time they moved the vehicle because we received the low battery message every time they shutdown the car. At least we knew they were working on it.

Parts had to be ordered for the other problem and by the time they came in, the car was dead. How do we know this? The car sent a message that the alarm had been triggered.

The car was so dead that the remote wouldn't unlock the car so they had to use the actual key in the door lock, setting off the alarm.

Interesting that the car had power enough to send the "alarm triggered" message (maybe the high voltage battery stepped up to send it.)

They fixed the other problem but said the charging system is fine. They would need the car for many more days to try and determine why the battery is running down.

We couldn't give up the car any longer, so life goes on with "low battery messages" after every shutdown.

Yesterday we drove the car for several hours at highway speeds and when we got home, no low battery message!

Almost 24 hours with no low battery message.

Drove the car this afternoon, 30 minutes later... "Remote Features disabled due to low battery...".

Life goes on, but now we have a portable jump start battery just in case the battery gets so low that the remote fob doesn't unlock the car...

Other than that we love the car.
 

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Update... (Sorry, long post)

We continue to get the low battery message every time the car's is turned off.

We were visiting family so we were able to borrow a car from them and give up our car for a few days.

We dropped our car off at a (different) Ford dealer to have an unrelated problem looked at, but mentioned the constant low battery messages.

We knew every time they moved the vehicle because we received the low battery message every time they shutdown the car. At least we knew they were working on it.

Parts had to be ordered for the other problem and by the time they came in, the car was dead. How do we know this? The car sent a message that the alarm had been triggered.

The car was so dead that the remote wouldn't unlock the car so they had to use the actual key in the door lock, setting off the alarm.

Interesting that the car had power enough to send the "alarm triggered" message (maybe the high voltage battery stepped up to send it.)

They fixed the other problem but said the charging system is fine. They would need the car for many more days to try and determine why the battery is running down.

We couldn't give up the car any longer, so life goes on with "low battery messages" after every shutdown.

Yesterday we drove the car for several hours at highway speeds and when we got home, no low battery message!

Almost 24 hours with no low battery message.

Drove the car this afternoon, 30 minutes later... "Remote Features disabled due to low battery...".

Life goes on, but now we have a portable jump start battery just in case the battery gets so low that the remote fob doesn't unlock the car...

Other than that we love the car.
There is a long story on the error messages you are seeing, covered in depth on "other" forums, which I'm not allowed to mention here. That forum concerns the Escape hybrid as a tow vehicle behind a motorhome. Since the 12 volt system in the hybrid powers the brake system, it is critical that the car not shut down power. I'll try and give an abreviated summary of what I have found on my 2020 Ford Hybrid (about 2500 miles so far).

"I am still fighting with my Ford dealer over the low battery shutoff. Battery voltage drops to 10 to 11 volts and the BMS (BAttery Management System) shuts the car down. However the power liftgate won't work and other systems are very erratic. Strange error messages generated and the backup camera doesn't work about half the time. Car is heading back to the dealer on Monday (8/10). Third trip to the dealer. Last time they kept it for 4 days. When I picked it up and drove it home the strange behavior immediately returned. "

A post from another "forum" member I will paraphrase: Tired of continual problems so he bought an H6 battery from Walmart for $115 and the problems went away.

My response:
"Could you keep us posted about the new battery and if it solves the problems? My Escape is at the dealer and he claims he can't find anything wrong. Says they test the battery and it shows good, which means they probably put a charger on it and give it back. I haven't towed the car yet (no place to go) but I keep getting the low battery shutdown and squirrly behavior of other electrical systems. I measured 10.6 volts on the battery before taking it to the dealer which tells me the battery is toast. It will hold a charge for a couple of days but then it starts shutting down again. "

The other forum member response (again paraphrased rather than plagerized): Works well, battery voltage stays up although still getting the messages.

My response
"Is the $115 Walmart battery you put in a lead acid type? I was told that the OEM Ford battery is an AGM. I suspect Ford used an AGM to eliminate corrosion and the potential for hydrogen gas release in the trunk area. The dealer tech also says the charging circuit is also set up for an AGM battery.

I am having the same issue with the Ford dealers you had and I suspect your right about the charging software. I spoke to the Ford tech working on my car today. He has escalated the issue to Ford and is waiting to hear back. He did say that he can see the error logs showing a drop to about 9 volts on the battery. He did agree with me that that low voltage is the likely cause of the electrical gremlins I am seeing. Lifgate won't open, backup camera doesn't always work, and strange error messages are frequent. The tech asked how much the car is being driven, which at the moment, is not a lot.

I have the car set up to tow but other than testing the taillights while connected to my RV for 5 minutes, I haven't towed it anywhere. I removed the fuses on the RVi charger before I took it to the dealer so there is no parasitic draw there. I may end up replacing the battery on my own like you did with as big an AGM as will fit.

Thanks for your feedback and please keep me posted on your solution. I'll keep you posted on my dealings with Ford. "

The other forum member response (paraphrased): Original battery is not an AGM.

My response
"Car is currently at the Ford dealer so I can't check but the tech asked if I used an AGM battery charger (mine is automatic select - flooded/AGM/Gel). He said the 12 volt battery is an AGM and using the correct charger is neccessary. He also stated that Ford says the charging voltage should be no higher than 12.5 volts. This seems way too low since every charger I have ever seen runs about 13.5 volts. A fully charged battery should read over 12.6 volts according to my battery charts. If the charge voltage is no higher than 12.5 volts the battery never gets fully charged. I think they're just grasping at straws and they really don't have an answer so some of what I've been told might be BS.

Doing a little thought exercise, the 12 volt battery in the hybrid does not start the engine, it only powers the electronics when the car is not running. The car has no starter or alternator in the traditional sense. Engine starting is done by the high voltage hybrid battery pack and the electric motor which is also the generator. The correct 12 volt battery for this application would be a deep cycle battery, not a cranking battery. The charging profile for a deep cycle battery would be somewhat different than a cranking battery. If the charging voltage is indeed limited to 12.5 volts I can see why these things have issues.

When I get the car back I'll probably buy as large a deep cycle battery as will fit. Something like an Optima Yellow Top, which is a deep cycle battery. "

My later response
"Doing a bit more research on this it is very difficult to find any reference for a direct replacement battery for the 2020 Escape hybrid. O'Reily lists a T4 as being an exact replacement battery for the Exacpe hybrid. The O'Reilly T4 battery is a sealed lead acid, not an AGM. This is a $50 battery at PEP Boys and is about the size of the tiny battery in my garden tractor.

If what I have been told me is true and Ford set up the charging circuit in the car for an AGM with a charge voltage no greater than 12.5 volts and then installed a cheap lead acid battery it is no wonder so many people are having problems. A lead acid battery requires a higher charge voltage than an AGM and it charges at a much slower rate. Charge voltage too low and inadequate charge time. Sure fits the symptoms. "

My response after the car came back from the dealer

"I finally got my car back from the Ford dealer. The dealer replaced the battery and the backup camera (again). They also said the PCM (Power Control Module) software was incorrect and they updated it.

Once I got home I inspected the battery and it was replaced with a Motorcraft BXT-99RT4-A (BCI Group number is 99, T4 is the DIN Code if your looking for a replacement). Researching this battery on the Motorcraft parts website - guess what? It is a standard (flooded) maintenance free battery. So yes, you do need to hook up a battery drain line in the trunk to vent acid if you overcharge to keep it from exploding. Not that the charge rate on this car could actually achieve this.

So all the stuff I was told about this being an AGM battery with special charge rates and voltages is so much BS. The only good piece of advise I got was "You might want to hook up a battery charger once a week if you don't drive the car a lot".

I am now going to look for a suitable sized AGM battery, preferably deep cycle rated, and save this new Ford battery for my lawn tractor. "
 

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It is a standard (flooded) maintenance free battery.
Is it mounted in a sealed battery box in the trunk/ boot? You'd get fumes from a normal lead acid wet cell charging. What you've been told about the 12.5V charging voltage does sounds like lies. Can you check the voltage with a multimeter when the vehicle is operating?
 

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Is it mounted in a sealed battery box in the trunk/ boot? You'd get fumes from a normal lead acid wet cell charging. What you've been told about the 12.5V charging voltage does sounds like lies. Can you check the voltage with a multimeter when the vehicle is operating?
It's mounted in the rear hatch area under the spare tire, not sealed, so it's open to the cabin. The 12.5 V charging has to be nonsense, as was the assurance that it was an AGM battery. I still don't understand why they would go to the trouble to make this stuff up or give me the run around for the two weeks they had the car. That battery probably only costs Ford $25 (it's only $50 at PEP Boys). They spent a lot more than that wasting the technician's time. What's interesting is when I was investigating the replacement battery a bunch of stuff came up from the Ford Mustang forum. Can you believe they use this tiny battery to start a GT350 Mustang with that enormous V8 flat crank engine. Next thing you'll see is two 9 volt batteries duck taped to the fender well. I plan to find the largest AGM battery that will fit in the space under the rear cargo area and, seriously, use this one to start my lawnmower.
 

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Is it mounted in a sealed battery box in the trunk/ boot? You'd get fumes from a normal lead acid wet cell charging. What you've been told about the 12.5V charging voltage does sounds like lies. Can you check the voltage with a multimeter when the vehicle is operating?
I have checked the voltage from the jump location under the hood and got 10.6 volts. The Ford tech got 9 volts when he checked it. With voltages that low any normal wet cell battery is ruined and will no longer hold a charge. I am hoping the low voltage is why I was seeing all the strange electrical gremlins. An AGM battery on the other hand can be recovered from a very low voltage (3 or 4 volts). This may be why they were trying to convince me it was an AGM. I used to race cars and I am a retired Chemical Engineer so I am pretty familiar with battery chemistry. Maybe I'm too gullible and wanted to believe them but I really don't like being lied to and given a run around.
 

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I got the car back from the dealer on 8/14. They replaced the battery (see message #30 above). By Saturday the voltage was down to 11 volts. I put a charger on the battery until it was fully charged at 13.4 volts. Today (8/17) I checked it was back to 11 volts so the drain is substantial and the battery is very small. I started the car and checked the charging voltage with both the engine running and the hybrid battery providing power. The charge voltage is indeed as low as the Ford tech said it was. About 12.4 volts, engine running or the hybrid battery providing. This voltage is too low to charge a flooded lead acid battery. I believe an AGM battery with its lower internal resistence and quicker charge times would be a better fit for this car.
 

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Just to clarify these posts regarding the messages in Ford Pass: The initial post referred to a message that said, "Remote features disabled for battery optimization" It does not specifically say "low battery".. I have been getting the battery optimization message every time I stop the car (Titanium Hybrid). Initially, I thought it was to make sure that features that use the battery when the car is off do not drain the battery if the car is not used for many days (as at the beginning of the pandemic). But I'm driving more often now, mostly on normal, and still get the message. I have also noticed that the passenger side "intelligent access" ability to unlock the door when the key is in my pocket stopped working when I started to get this message. Is the passenger side access somehow related to remote features that are disabled?
 

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The message about remote features being disabled usually occurs when the battery voltage is low. That's when I get strange behavior of some of the systems. Sometimes the passengers door won't unlock when your carrying the key, other times the power liftgate unlocks, but won't open, still other times the strange messages about parking features disabled. I replaced the OEM battery with a much larger AGM a couple of weeks ago. Everything worked fine for a couple of weeks but just yesterday the liftgate unlocked but wouldn't open. I started the car and the liftgate worked fine. I'm getting to the point that I plan to start putting a charger on the car every week.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
We still get the message everytime we shutdown our vehicle. Even after a long drive on the highway, within minutes 'remote features disabled'.

We sometimes tow the car behind a motorhome with a 12 volt charge line, but we still get the message while towing, while charging!?!

A few weeks ago, towed the car behind the motorhome. The car appeared dead at the end of the day's tow of about 4 hours. {RV charging system indicated more than 12 volts in the car's battery.}

Touched the dead car jump start posts with a small jump pack and (reboot?) car says 'ready to drive'.

Relocated the car a couple times while getting the motorhome into the camp site. No messages!

Went to drive to town and got 'Stop Safely Now' message on dash and 3 warming messages via the Ford App!!!

Turned the car off. Turned the car on. No messages, no issues AND no 'remote features disabled/battery optimization' messages for 3 days!!!

Then the messages started up again. Everytime we shutdown the car.

It must be a software issue!

600 more miles of towing and regular driving, and back to messages every day, every time.

Dear Ford, please contact me! Thank you.
 

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Long story on my car. I have taken it to the dealer 4 times, the last time they kept it for 3 weeks. They replaced the battery with another tiny cheap one on one visit; no help. Last visit they say they found a loose ground wire. Power lift gate would not open unless the car was running, automatic locks were wonky, touch screen ran very hot and froze up, rear camera stopped working (it's on the third camera now), and the shutting down message. The electrical system on this car is a mess.

I have had the car back for 3 days and so far (fingers crossed) and everything is working fine.
 

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Hopefully this is the end of this saga. The car (2020 Escape Titanium Hybrid) has functioned perfectly for the last three weeks. Yesterday I took the car back to the dealer to for the display screen lockup issues (which had not re-occurred) since the replacement screen had arrived. I received a long detailed writeup of the issues and troubleshooting the dealer did (Gullo Ford in Conroe Texas). I'll let everyone draw their own conclusions but so far I am very happy with the repair. I think this episode speaks volumes about the complexity of modern complicated vehicles. I scanned the dealer technician's writeup which explains why it took so long. Hopefully this will help some Escape owners that are chasing similar gremlins.

A MULTIPOINT INSPECTION

B GENERAL REPAIRS REAR TAILGATE NOT WORKING UNLESS RUNNING AND LOCKS QUIT WORKING

CUSTOMER STATES REAR TAILGATE WILL NOT OPEN UNLESS CAR IS RUNNING LOCKS WILL QUIT WORKING AS WELL. UPON CONNECTING TO FDRS, I FOUND MULTIPLE CODES PERTAINING TO LOW VOLTAGE. BECM-U3003. ABS-U3003. RGTM-U3003. BCMC U0100, U3003. APIM U3003. DUE TO THE LOW VOLTAGE CODES BEING IN MULTIPLE MODULES, I PERFORMED A BATTERY DRAW TEST. I FOUND THE DRAW TO BE INTERMITTENT. MOST OF THE TIME, IT WOULD STAY AROUND 1.1 AMPS. HOWEVER, IT WOULD SPIKE TO 4-7 AMPS AND REMAIN THERE FOR A LONG TIME. OTHER TIMES, IT WOULD DROP TO 0 AMPS WHICH IS WITHIN SPEC. I CONTACTED FORD HOTLINE AND WAS TOLD TO.LBT THE VEHICLE SIT FOR 75 MINUTES AFTERPULLING A FUSE OR CONNECTOR. WITH IT BEING INTERMITTENT IT MADE IT DIFFICULT TO PINPOINT WHERE THE ISSUE WAS COMING FROM. I STARTED WITH UNPLUGGING C1035A AND C1035B AND FOUND MOST SUCCESS WITH GETTING THE DRAW WITHIN SPEC WITH THOSE BEING UNPLUGGED. FROM THERE I USED WORKSHOP MANUAL TO LOCATE WHICH MODULES AND COMPONENTS WERE COMING FROM THOSE CONNECTORS, SO I COULD UNPLUG EACH ONE INDIVIDUALLY, WHICH INVOLVED REMOVING THE CENTER CONSOLE, MOST INTERIOR TRIM PIECES, FENDER WELLS, ETC. WHEN I MADE IT TO THE CONNECTORS UNDERNEATH THE HOOD, I FOUND THE CAR TO WAKE UP WHEN PULLING ON A WIRE ROUTED TO THE DC/DC CONTROL MODULE. I FOUND THE 12V BATTERY TO BE CHARGING AROUND 12.5-12.8, WHICH IS LOWER THAN THE SPEC OF THE WORKSHOP MANUAL OF 13-14V. I THEN LOOKED AT THE WORKSHOP MANUAL AND FOLLOWED ALL WIRING GOING TO THE 12V BATTERY TO TRY TO LOCATE A LOOSE/CORRODED CONNECTION. I FOUND THE C1617A CONNECTOR TO BE LOOSE, WHICH WAS CAUSING THE BATTERY TO NOT PROPERLY CHARGE INTERMITTENT DRAW BY OCCASIONALLY RE WAKING THE VEHICLE UP. I FIXED THE CONNECTION AND VERIFIED THE BATTERY WAS CHARGING AROUND 13.5 NOW. AFTER PUTTING THE VEHICLE BACK TOGETHER, I LET IT SIT OVERNIGHT TO VERIFY THE TAILGATE LOCKS AND OTHER 12V SUPPLY COMPONENTS WORK AS THEY SHOULD EVEN WHEN THE VEHICLE IS NOT RUNNING.

C GENERAL REPAIRS SCREEN FROZE UP AND WAS HOT TO TOUCH

VERIFIED CONCERN. NO RELEVANT SSM'S. PERFORMED RESETS AND SELF TEST TO FIND U3000:09 COMMUNICATIONS FAILURE. PERFROMED TEST PER WSM. ORDER, EXCHANGE, PROGRAM APIM. RETEST SYNC FUNCTIONS WITH KNOWN GOOD DEVICE. RPV35HJUWFQ5M.
 
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