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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there!
This is my first post here after having been a lurker for a while.

So, first of all, let me give you guys the rundown on what my wife's Escape has been doing the last couple of weeks (besides sitting mostly because of the issues below).

About two weeks ago my wife sat in line for about 4 hours waiting to get a Covid test (her test came back negative, thankfully) and, as she was leaving the place where she got her test, she said the car started running weird and shuddering - so, she shut it off not knowing what was wrong. Then, when she tried to restart it, a message popped up on the dash saying "Start System Fault". She called me to come help her and, when I got there and tried to start it I got the same message. So, I grabbed my tools out of my Suburban to check all connections and to make sure nothing was loose with the battery, etc. Upon taking the cover off the battery I noticed that there was fair bit of corrosion on the positive battery terminal but, none of the connections were loose whatsoever - nice and snug as per normal. So, I then decided to go ahead and clean the corrosion off the positive terminal, clean things up, and then tighten things down again. Tried starting the car again and it fired right up. So, I thought that was it and I let her take my Suburban and drove the Escape home myself just to be safe.

Fast forward to two days after the aforementioned incident. My wife had driven the Escape to church and drove downtown afterward to meet up with some folks from the church. When she got in the car to leave downtown, it wouldn't start again and displayed the "Start System Fault" message again. After the car had set for about half an hour it started up normally. So, I drove it home again (thankfully it made it home!) and this time I took the battery out and took it to Advance Auto where I had bought the battery two years ago. They tested it and said that the voltage and amperage was quite strong. It checked out with a voltage of 13.3v and 610 cranking amps even though the battery is only rated at 590, but ok.

I then brought the battery back to the house and reinstalled it, and the car wouldn't start BUT, it did not display a "Start System Fault" message again. So, I checked the connections again, everything was good, all contact points were clean and free of any corrosion of any variety.

Then, just out of curiosity, I wiggled the positive battery cable and heard something engage or energize. So, then I tried rocking the positive cable gently fore and aft and heard that same sound again. I thought "ah ha!" it's the positive battery cable that's somehow developed a short. Then, I had my wife try to start the car when I held the positive battery cable in that certain position - and it started.

After dicovering the issue with the positive battery cable, I ordered a factory replacement cable and installed it yesterday evening. Car still wouldn't start AND then a message popped up on the dash saying "System Shutting Down to Save Battery Life".

At that point I thought the battery had drained down after sitting for the last week or two while I was waiting for the replacement positive cable to arrive. So, I then took the battery back to Advance Auto (where I bought it in 2019) and they swapped it out for a new one. Got the new battery installed and everything snugged up properly and then tried to start it - STILL DIDN'T START.

Then I started seaching "2016 Ford Escape won't start after installing new battery" and found an article saying that the BMS (Battery Management System) would need to be reset by using a scan tool and the FORScan software. So, I just ordered the OBD2 adapter recommended bythe makers of the FORScan software and it'll be here in a couple of days.

Since installing the new battery, I have done the following and had no luck:

  • Checked the voltage on the new battery using my multimeter and it says 12.56 volts
  • I have cleaned and tightened the connections including the ground that lives on the fenderwell.
  • I left the battery disconnected overnight for 13 hours, reconnected it around 10 am this morning, blank screen and still won't start.
  • I've replaced the battery in the fob (and yes, the bettery is installed correctly - I tried both negative facing up and down to be sure).
  • I tried removing the fob battery and going through the procedure to start the car when the fob battery is dead - still didn't start.
  • I tried jumpstarting the car with my Suburban about an hour ago - still didn't start.
An interesting note: I removed the circuit from the fob to see if maybe the RFID signal was weak and coudn't get through the outter fob housing. All this did was make the dash display a message "MyKey Not Found". Also, placing the circuit board from the fob on the side of the steering column didn't work so, now I'm thinking I need a new key fob AND do the reset on the BMS.

Any of you guys have some thoughts as to what's going on with this car? Or, maybe some ideas I can try next?

Slowly. Losing. My. Mind.

Thank you guys for any and all help in adavance. I really do appreciate it.

Pic of what I see when I get in the car to try and start it. This turns off after a minute or two.

Speedometer Vehicle Car Plant Motor vehicle
 

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Sunset 2014 Escape Ti 2.0 Persian Green 2020 Escape Ti Hybrid
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Look at the BMS sensor and pigtail on the negative battery cable.
Also have you checked the fuses that are located on the front of the battery holder?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Look at the BMS sensor and pigtail on the negative battery cable.
Also have you checked the fuses that are located on the front of the battery holder?
Hi there! Thank you for taking time to help me, I really apprecaite it!

I checked to make sure the connector is seated going into the BMS, but not sure what else I can check there - any advice is welcome.

Had no idea there were any fuses located on the front panel of the battery holder. Do I just need to remove that outer front cover to get to them? What I mean by "outer front cover" is the black panel that seems to snap fit into place on the front panel itself.
 

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look into this connector. failure of it will cause many electrical issues
 

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Hi there! Thank you for taking time to help me, I really apprecaite it!

I checked to make sure the connector is seated going into the BMS, but not sure what else I can check there - any advice is welcome.

Had no idea there were any fuses located on the front panel of the battery holder. Do I just need to remove that outer front cover to get to them? What I mean by "outer front cover" is the black panel that seems to snap fit into place on the front panel itself.
That would be correct.
 

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In particular #12 and #13 on the thread link on the last post here by @BobP.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That would be correct.
Hey there!

Just a quick note to let you know that I pulled the front cover off the batter box and checked all those inline fuses with my multimeter and they're all good.

I received the OBDLink EX and installed FORScan on my laptop. Everything is up todate and the led on the connecter lights up green and FORScan sees the connector but, now I'm getting the following message in FORScan - "Unable to connect to vehicle. Please make sure the ignition key is on and try again". Well, this car has push button start and so I tried what the FORScan site says and I push the start button twice without pushing the brake pedal and nothing is happening.

At this point, all I still have are the blank displays when I open the door.

I have checked all connections, all fuses in the fuse box, I've checked the voltage of the batter on the battery posts and it reads a consistent 12.54 volts.

I'm wondering if there's something going on with my wife's key fob. I ordered a new OEM fob for it and it will be here Tuesday by 8 pm.

I've replaced the battery in her fob, and I can lock and unlock doors, and open the rear hatch from the fob, but the remote start doesn't work - actually, the remote start hasn't worked for a couple years.

Losing my mind and really wish I could figure out what to do to get the car to start or power up enough for FORScan to at least connect to the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What method did you use to remove and install the battery, the cowl removal or the airbox removal method? If the airbox method, read this thread: 2014 SE No Start After Battery Change
I removed the wipers and cowl to get the battery out.

Please see my response to another post below to see whee I'm at now with this mess. I could really use help and guidance with this situation, and I really do appreciate all you guys jumping in to help me get this solved.
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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Have you checked if the battery 12V is getting through to the engine bay fuse box? Use the chassis negative post on the suspension tower for your negative reference and check for voltage in the fuse box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Have you checked if the battery 12V is getting through to the engine bay fuse box? Use the chassis negative post on the suspension tower for your negative reference and check for voltage in the fuse box.
Hi there! Thank you for hopping in to help me figure this mess out!

I have checked all the fuses (no relays) in the fuse box and they all checked out fine, and I have checked voltage on the battery and it reads a steady 12.54 volts.

That said, I have not checked for voltage in the fuse box itself. Other than connecting a lead from my multimeter to the ground lug on the fender, what points should I touch with my positive lead on the multimeter to get an accurate reading for voltage in the fuse box?

Any particular fuse or point I should use to verify?

Again, thank you for helping me figure out what’s going on, much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There's a 150A starter fuse
The thing is, I'm trying to get the car to go into accessory mode, and in the video that I found today and shared here, the tech is experiencing the exact same thing our Escape is doing.

To be honest, this issue is so rare that I'm still stunned I even found a video of this issue. Couldn't believe it to be honest, because I've found no other post of video that touches on this problem at all.

I'm going to call around to my local Ford dealers in the morning and see if they happen to have any of the red 50 amp 32 volt circuit breakers in stock. If not, then I'm going to order a couple from the site you shared with me. The part I think I need is at the link below.

CV6Z-14526-CA - Genuine Ford Circuit Breaker Assembly
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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Hi there! Thank you for hopping in to help me figure this mess out!

I have checked all the fuses (no relays) in the fuse box and they all checked out fine, and I have checked voltage on the battery and it reads a steady 12.54 volts.

That said, I have not checked for voltage in the fuse box itself. Other than connecting a lead from my multimeter to the ground lug on the fender, what points should I touch with my positive lead on the multimeter to get an accurate reading for voltage in the fuse box?

Any particular fuse or point I should use to verify?

Again, thank you for helping me figure out what’s going on, much appreciated.
Quite a few fuses in there would most likely have 12V applied even with the ignition off. There's also the distribution mega fuses on the front of the battery box.

What you want to do is use a few different earth reference points when checking for power. That may show up either an earth/ negative continuity break or issues with the positive side. People have posted of broken / intermittent mega fuses in the front section of the battery box.

Also check the fuse @jpohlman mentioned. I'm not sure if it's part of the battery positive terminal clamp or located elsewhere in the loom. (A lot of vehicles have it built into the battery terminal clamp- perhaps under a cover.)

Edit: the 150 Amp fuse for the starter is F2 in the mega fuses (front of battery box.) All mega fuses in there are "hot at all times" so should have 12V there at all times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Good afternoon, everyone!

So, I've posted about the issues I'm having with my wife's 2016 Escape Titanium with the 2.0 EcoBoost not starting after having changed the battery. It's been a long and drawn out saga to say the least.

Now, having stumbled upon a YouTube video yesterday of a repair tech who was experiencing the very same and exact problem I was with my wife's Escape, I called my local Ford dealer this morning to see if they had any of the Maxi fuses that live on the front of the battery box. Turns out they had just one, but it was the one I wanted to replace - the same one the tech in the video had replaced.

So, I went to the Fodr dealer and bought the one Maxi fuse they had, came home, popped it into place and WHAM O, I can now get the car to go into accessory mode again.

The real downer is that it still won't start and I cannot get the FORScan software to establish a connection with our Escape. I'd really love to be able to get the FORScan software to make a connection so i can see what all codes have to deal with and so i can remove the goofy MyKey restrictions on the one non-admin fob we have.

I am going to share two videos with you guys. The first one, you'll want to watch from minute 20:02. The second video is one that I made this morning after having replaced the one 50 amp Maxi fuse - the same one the tech replaced in the video.

My thinking is that I have somehow managed to crack more than one of these Maxi fuses and I need to either call around to more dealers and find the rest of them and replace them all OR, I need to hop online and order them and wait for them to get here.

DISCLAIMER: Replacing all the Maxi fuses is what I think I need to try next BUT, that DOES NOT mean that's the right thing to do. I'm just trying to eliminate everything I can and get the car fixed.

If you guys see something in my video that I need to, PLEASE reply here and let me know.

Really trying to figure out what I need to do next to get this issue resolved. Please feel free to point me in the right direction. I feel like I'm finally getting close and I do not want to hav the car towed to the dealer.

Video:
Tech discovering the issue with the Maxi fuse after tugging on the positive battery cable - I already ordered and replaced our positive battery cable with a brand new Ford original OEM replacement.


Video: My video of what I'm seeing after replacing ONE of the 50 amp Maxi fuses:
 

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2014 Ford Escape Titanium, 2.0L, Sync 2 MFT
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Good afternoon, everyone!

So, I've posted about the issues I'm having with my wife's 2016 Escape Titanium with the 2.0 EcoBoost not starting after having changed the battery. It's been a long and drawn out saga to say the least.

Now, having stumbled upon a YouTube video yesterday of a repair tech who was experiencing the very same and exact problem I was with my wife's Escape, I called my local Ford dealer this morning to see if they had any of the Maxi fuses that live on the front of the battery box. Turns out they had just one, but it was the one I wanted to replace - the same one the tech in the video had replaced.

So, I went to the Fodr dealer and bought the one Maxi fuse they had, came home, popped it into place and WHAM O, I can now get the car to go into accessory mode again.

The real downer is that it still won't start and I cannot get the FORScan software to establish a connection with our Escape. I'd really love to be able to get the FORScan software to make a connection so i can see what all codes have to deal with and so i can remove the goofy MyKey restrictions on the one non-admin fob we have.

I am going to share two videos with you guys. The first one, you'll want to watch from minute 20:02. The second video is one that I made this morning after having replaced the one 50 amp Maxi fuse - the same one the tech replaced in the video.

My thinking is that I have somehow managed to crack more than one of these Maxi fuses and I need to either call around to more dealers and find the rest of them and replace them all OR, I need to hop online and order them and wait for them to get here.

DISCLAIMER: Replacing all the Maxi fuses is what I think I need to try next BUT, that DOES NOT mean that's the right thing to do. I'm just trying to eliminate everything I can and get the car fixed.

If you guys see something in my video that I need to, PLEASE reply here and let me know.

Really trying to figure out what I need to do next to get this issue resolved. Please feel free to point me in the right direction. I feel like I'm finally getting close and I do not want to hav the car towed to the dealer.

Video:
Tech discovering the issue with the Maxi fuse after tugging on the positive battery cable - I already ordered and replaced our positive battery cable with a brand new Ford original OEM replacement.


Video: My video of what I'm seeing after replacing ONE of the 50 amp Maxi fuses:
I merged your two threads together of the same issue.
 
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