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2018 Escape Titanium 4WD. fully loaded.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed the shield underneath the engine on my 2018 titanium was missing a few rivets and was loose at each end nearest the wheel well of each front wheel. how do you replace these ? are they the plastic rivets or torx screws ? I know my mustang had just the plastic push in rivet type deal , but obviously the Escape is a different car. I will update with pictures if needed.
 

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Out by the wheel wells there is one hex head screw and wheel well retainer nut on each side. These are different than the other screws and plastic nuts. Circled in red in the image below. Not sure if I listed the correct parts, its those parts that they list in other areas instead of where you would logically find it.





Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Tread
 

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2014 Escape SE 2.0
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The OEM fasteners that came on my splash shield/windage tray were all torx screws. I want to say t20 ish.

The fasteners go missing quickly if you have your oil changed at a 30 minute oil change place because most of the techs put them back in with too high a torque setting on their air ratchet. This strips the plastic receiver threads, the red things shown above.

I do all the oil changes now.

I had to go out and purchase a package or two of those threaded fasteners which clip into specific spots in the frame. Some are easily accessible, a few required some persuasion to get the new ones in the position. You will see what I mean when you go to do it. I replaced 100% of mine and I use either a low torque electric ratchet or a torx socket pit and a ratchet to avoid over torquing and stripping.

I suppose the plastic pins are an alternate solution provided they are the correct size.

If you are referring to the screws that hold the wheel well lining in and attach to the front wheel well shield, that's a slightly different discussion but not really. Not sure part numbers for those plastic anchors.
 

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2018 Escape Titanium 4WD. fully loaded.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The OEM fasteners that came on my splash shield/windage tray were all torx screws. I want to say t20 ish.

The fasteners go missing quickly if you have your oil changed at a 30 minute oil change place because most of the techs put them back in with too high a torque setting on their air ratchet. This strips the plastic receiver threads, the red things shown above.

I do all the oil changes now.

I had to go out and purchase a package or two of those threaded fasteners which clip into specific spots in the frame. Some are easily accessible, a few required some persuasion to get the new ones in the position. You will see what I mean when you go to do it. I replaced 100% of mine and I use either a low torque electric ratchet or a torx socket pit and a ratchet to avoid over torquing and stripping.

I suppose the plastic pins are an alternate solution provided they are the correct size.

If you are referring to the screws that hold the wheel well lining in and attach to the front wheel well shield, that's a slightly different discussion but not really. Not sure part numbers for those plastic anchors.

I only service my Escape at the Ford dealership 2 miles from my house. It wouldn't surprise me if they left the fastners or broke or over/under tightened them. the shield isn't loose except for the ends where the wheel well/fender meet the shield. I bought a few different sets of fasteners and torx screw fasteners that fit Ford cars, hopefully something fits enough to tighten the ends. I took everyone's suggestions about which part goes there and bought some different things from Amazon, I have had good luck with fasteners for Fords on Amazon.
The OEM fasteners that came on my splash shield/windage tray were all torx screws. I want to say t20 ish.

The fasteners go missing quickly if you have your oil changed at a 30 minute oil change place because most of the techs put them back in with too high a torque setting on their air ratchet. This strips the plastic receiver threads, the red things shown above.

I do all the oil changes now.

I had to go out and purchase a package or two of those threaded fasteners which clip into specific spots in the frame. Some are easily accessible, a few required some persuasion to get the new ones in the position. You will see what I mean when you go to do it. I replaced 100% of mine and I use either a low torque electric ratchet or a torx socket pit and a ratchet to avoid over torquing and stripping.

I suppose the plastic pins are an alternate solution provided they are the correct size.

If you are referring to the screws that hold the wheel well lining in and attach to the front wheel well shield, that's a slightly different discussion but not really. Not sure part numbers for those plastic anchors.

the screws or fasteners I'm talking about that are missing are the same that are circled in red on the previous poster's picture.
 

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Yes no one is immune from this sin.

Pull up Fordpartsgiant.com and search by VIN. Fasteners are always a pain in the butt to match up, but with the VIN in there, you have a much better chance. If they are silly expensive, just note down the type and size including the length and source from somewhere else.

Apologies for misunderstanding which bolts.
Your splash guard is of course similar in shape but does not appear to be the OEM design they had in 2014. I'm simply saying it does not match mine. I do have those side connection fasteners as well but they attach to plastic pieces that hang down, not metal. Not that that makes a difference but that is the first thing I noticed.

Anything that fits the thread pattern and size should be sufficient. Obviously it's nice to have everything match. However I don't think there is a red receiving socket behind those on my car because the protrusions hanging down are plastic and free floating or shall I say flexible.
I think it is it blind hole clip that its faster threads through. .
 
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I do have those side connection fasteners as well but they attach to plastic pieces that hang down, not metal. Not that that makes a difference but that is the first thing I noticed.
Geez, lets make this as confusing as possible. I never said it was metal out there by the wheel well that it connects to. I pulled a screen shot from a random video simply to help explain and clarify what the OP is referring to. Everybody keeps talking about the red plastic retainer nuts. That is NOT what the OP was asking about. I explained everything in my post (#3) and included part numbers. My 2013 is the same connections as my 2017. Pretty sure YOU have the same connections. Its the same from 2013-2019 more than likely.

And to the OP, check and see if the retainer nut is still there. It might be depending on how long you have gone without the screw. Typically those type of nuts are dug into the plastic pretty good.
 
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I only service my Escape at the Ford dealership 2 miles from my house. It wouldn't surprise me if they left the fastners or broke or over/under tightened them. the shield isn't loose except for the ends where the wheel well/fender meet the shield. I bought a few different sets of fasteners and torx screw fasteners that fit Ford cars, hopefully something fits enough to tighten the ends. I took everyone's suggestions about which part goes there and bought some different things from Amazon, I have had good luck with fasteners for Fords on Amazon.



the screws or fasteners I'm talking about that are missing are the same that are circled in red on the previous poster's picture.
I had this same exact issue with my 16 about 2 mos ago. The Amazon ones in the second post fit on the rear holes closest to the front control arms and wheels. The front edge has ones that are torx and come from Ford. I’m not at home for a week to give the PN but I believe they have an integrated washer too. They will feel as though they don’t fit most likely but it’s important to climb under and direct them into the threading properly and they will. I think those were about $5 apiece? Super hard to find them all
 

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I had this same exact issue with my 16 about 2 mos ago. The Amazon ones in the second post fit on the rear holes closest to the front control arms and wheels. The front edge has ones that are torx and come from Ford. I’m not at home for a week to give the PN but I believe they have an integrated washer too. They will feel as though they don’t fit most likely but it’s important to climb under and direct them into the threading properly and they will. I think those were about $5 apiece? Super hard to find them all
Again, misleading information and NOT what the OP was asking about. The ones in the second post are for the 4 along the front edge AND the 3 along the back edge of the shield. The 2 that attach to the wheel wells on the sides of the shield are DIFFERENT than the other 7 with the red nuts.

Here is a video that shows the side clips at 2:20 in the video timeline. Unfortunately he doesn't show the hex head fastener for the side stainless steel retainer nuts.

Splash Shield Nut Inserts, Screws, & Clips: HOW TO ESCAPE - YouTube
 

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Lightning Blue 2017 Ford Escape Titanium
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they are called captured nuts and are the same size as the other screws. if you need to replace them you can get them at homedepot in the parts drawers. i just took one of the screws in and found the right one. thought i had a pack but cant find them for the number.
 

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This was what I bought for mine. Figured it would be good to post a photo of the package for SKU size and name. Found it when I was cleaning the cars door pockets as I tossed a spare in there.
 

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10-24.

Thank you, Pen25.
Might even pick up a few stainless 10-24 flange head bolts.

Now to find the t27 torx screws that originally came with the vehicle. They fit all of the red nut things.

Yes, I am fully aware that the red nuts are not what the OP was referring to. The OP was referring to 10-24 bolts that go with the speed nuts which are 10-24. Actually he was not referring to bolts because he didn't know what went through there because it was missing.

In theory, anything that fits through the hole and is securable, which is not a word, should work just fine but Pen25 did the leg work at home Depot, so I will attempt an identical approach.

Now everyone has their answer and we can all stand down.
 
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