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I've noticed several posts by folks indicating they'd like to 'permanently' remove their roof rails. Not for everyone but no doubt for me, if the '14 SE had been available without 'em I'd have gone that route.

I've been researching but haven't yet tackled the job. Here's info I've gathered so far (all applies to both '13 and '14 Escape, with and without pano):

Parts List (first number is quantity)
(1) Roof molding, right, CJ5Z-7850462-AA
(1) Roof molding, left, CJ5Z-7850463-AA
(6 - 3 each side) Roof molding clip, CJ5Z-7850002-A
(6 - 3 each side) Roof molding screw, W713232-S439

Ford R&R Procedures
- The roof moulding R&R procedure is in Section 501-08 of the Workshop Manual; look for "Procedure revision date: 09/18/2013" in the page header, that's the latest revision as of this post date.
- Ford SSM 44215, issued shortly after the WM revision mentioned above on 02/10/13, adds the following information: To prevent a repeat repair, when installing a new ditch molding, audible clicks can be heard when ditch molding has engaged with ditch clip, make sure to apply pressure to foremost foam block for 10 seconds to ensure full adherence to ditch. When installing a new ditch clip, ensure the clip is flat in ditch and no gaps exist between the end of clip and roof ditch, torque to 5.4 Nm +/- 0.9. Always perform visual inspection over entire length of ditch molding to verify it is properly seated in the roof ditch.

From Roof Leak Threads

Plenty of good info on removing the OEM roof rails in threads on this forum about roof leaks. Based on those threads it seems only prudent to use a silicon sealant wherever a fastener penetrates the roof.

Assumptions

As far as I can tell all required roof penetrations are 'pre-drilled' and are the same for all Escapes, with and w/o roof rails. Nothing I've found shows any 'under the roof' nuts, backing, etc so all the work can be done from the outside without disturbing the headliner. The "foam block(s)" mentioned in the SSM above are shown on the molding in the WM diagrams but are not listed as a separate part #, so I assume they are pre-affixed to the replacement molding pieces.

Cost
MSRP for the listed parts is about $350; best internet discount dealer price I've found is about $217 + shipping. Note that the long moldings are very fragile and if kinked in shipping will likely not be useable. I'm lucky, my local Ford dealer will match internet price for over-the-counter parts sales. Obviously some cost might be recouped by sale of the take-off roof rails if undamaged.

Have You Done This Project??

If you've installed the OEM full-length non-roof-rail "ditch molding", please share your experience, tips and corrections to anything wrong in this post.

TIA!
 

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All you do is pop the silver caps.then you take I think it's a eight mm bolt s of then they come right of f.peak back the existing black rubber roof mlds(because they will have cut outs for the bolts. Use a two parts non sag seam sealer seal everything up don't be shy with it..install new roof mldgs and you should be done..It is super easy hardest part is getting the caps of to get to bolts....put on eBay sell to cover your costs and your done.
 

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All you do is pop the silver caps.then you take I think it's a eight mm bolt s of then they come right of f.peak back the existing black rubber roof mlds(because they will have cut outs for the bolts. Use a two parts non sag seam sealer seal everything up don't be shy with it..install new roof mldgs and you should be done..It is super easy hardest part is getting the caps of to get to bolts....put on eBay sell to cover your costs and your done.
Do you have finished install pics of this? Contemplating doing this myself but would like a picture of the finished product before I attempt it.
 

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Do you have finished install pics of this? Contemplating doing this myself but would like a picture of the finished product before I attempt it.
Do you mean finished install pics of an FE with roof rails removed? Try this

New 2013 Ford Escape S for Sale - Stock #390187 | DealerRevs.com - Dealer Car Ad #67593634

Since my OP I've done the job on mine and sold the rails to another forum member. The only difference from hokkerdj's write up is I used Permatex Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant #66B generously at all penetrations. http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/adhesives-sealants/sealants/permatex--clear-rtv-silicone-adhesive-sealant-detail Available at any auto parts store and maybe Walmart.

At the abandoned bolt holes (two holes used for the roof rack on each side will not be re-used when you install the ditch-trim clips) I did insert a short locally purchased stainless steel screw to fill the holes (RTV'd generously like all the others). I also removed the center trim clip and re-sealed it with the RTV. Lots of rain and washes since, no leaks.

Here's the parts list assuming you reuse the center trim clip ("Roof Trim Retainer") already in place with the roof rails:

CJ5Z7850462AA - Drip Rail Moulding Less Roof Rack; RH (Quantity=1)
CJ5Z7850463AA - Drip Rail Moulding Less Roof Rack; LH (1)
CJ5Z7850002A - Roof Trim Retainer (4)
W713232-S439 - Roof Moulding Screw/washer (4) <<<< buy and use these special screws - don't try to find a hardware store alternative ;-)
 

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Do you mean finished install pics of an FE with roof rails removed? Try this

New 2013 Ford Escape S for Sale - Stock #390187 | DealerRevs.com - Dealer Car Ad #67593634

Since my OP I've done the job on mine and sold the rails to another forum member. The only difference from hokkerdj's write up is I used Permatex Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant #66B generously at all penetrations. Sealants : Permatex® Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant Available at any auto parts store and maybe Walmart.

At the abandoned bolt holes (two holes used for the roof rack on each side will not be re-used when you install the ditch-trim clips) I did insert a short locally purchased stainless steel screw to fill the holes (RTV'd generously like all the others). I also removed the center trim clip and re-sealed it with the RTV. Lots of rain and washes since, no leaks.

Here's the parts list assuming you reuse the center trim clip ("Roof Trim Retainer") already in place with the roof rails:

CJ5Z7850462AA - Drip Rail Moulding Less Roof Rack; RH (Quantity=1)
CJ5Z7850463AA - Drip Rail Moulding Less Roof Rack; LH (1)
CJ5Z7850002A - Roof Trim Retainer (4)
W713232-S439 - Roof Moulding Screw/washer (4) <<<< buy and use these special screws - don't try to find a hardware store alternative ;-)
Awesome! Thanks for all of your help.
 

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I know I'm digging up a 7 year old thread but if anyone is still reading this and wants to trade their rails for my stock molding lemme know and I'll gladly trade you!
 
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