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2013 2.0 eco 9.12 build date

I'm trying to help a friend out with this, I have done a TON of forum searching, but nothing quite came up as the same.

He went to an indy place and they said his torque converter was shot. Did a drain and fill on tranny came out black and watery. Drove fine before and after. No change.

He had all the mounts replaced. No help. When you put it in drive or reverse you can see the whole engine and tranny get sucked down and engaged then the violent shakes happen. Once you get going, they go away. Not in park or neutral.

After further research I either believe it to be a vacuum leak or map sensor issue. Looked up the vin, no recall. Was going to try and get a leak tester soon or smoke machine.

Problem came on randomly. No codes. Logged with hptuners and saw when in drive the map sensor readings and load increased to about half without moving. Odd.

In the end I am guessing the wiring splice tsb. It doesn't quite stall like others say, but man it runs terrible. Plugs look...meh, but still. No codes.

I really want to help him out before the shop throws a tranny in for no reason. Any help is GREATLY appreciated! Thanks all!
 

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My 2013 2 liter AWD went out at 90,000
It was the torque converter cost me $3600.00
when torque converter locks up it kills the engine
it threw no codes!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My 2013 2 liter AWD went out at 90,000
It was the torque converter cost me $3600.00
when torque converter locks up it kills the engine
it threw no codes!!!!!!!!!!!
That's what I am worried about. I can control the torque converter with the tune, but it's not really showing signs like that outside of stationary. No performance dips, no shuddering any other times so I kind of put that as the last measure, especially since the map readings increased a lot when the rpms dropped a bit...

Lol but that's what I am trying to avoid is that huge bill!
 

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What are you showing in your hand??
Tranny fluid @ 96k. Saw some other posts about the 6f tranny. Apparently it is fairly normal at times. I was afraid it was contaminated by coolant, but roughly 4-5qts came out. No change when doing a drain and fill at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also thought of it being a clogged cat, but have never heard of it not happening in park as well.
 

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Sounds to me like the torque converter is locking up immediately, but something "downstream" may be binding, and stopping the drive train there. Similar to holding the brakes, while giving it gas in gear. So my guess is it may be two things. The torque converter, AND something between the brakes, and the torque converter not allowing the power to continue on.

Now, all that being said, it may be computer controlled systems not agreeing on what is going on. Like the ABS applying the brakes, while you want to drive off, and then the engine controls try to stop the argument by shutting down.

Another thought, issues in the system that stops the car from rolling backwards while on a hill, or the green mode of shutting the engine off at a full stop, then starting up when you step on the gas. Somethings electronically may not be playing nice with each other. A bit of a reach, but if it's got everyone scratching their heads . . .
 

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I'd hate to think that being the case. I still haven't gone into the harness just yet, weather being crappy.

Maybe I didn't explain it too in depth or properly, but this happens when you are just stationary. When you start driving everything is PEACHY.

Get in car in park. Fine. Shift to D. Shakeshakeshakeshakeshake. Rpms dip. Time to go, lift foot off brake and give it gas. All good. Come to a stop. Shakeshakeshake. I have SCOURED other ecoboost forums. Nada. Or always a mount issue, but a mount wouldn't cause the engine rpms to dip and map and load to increase.

Thanks for the reply! Gets more info in my head.
 

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I just posted yesterday you have the same thing as I To a tee. I will follow your post for updates and will add anything we come across.
i own a exhaust shop it is not the cat on my end checked it today.
my engine does not shut off it just shakes.when you take off it is fine like nothing wrong.
just does it in drive or in reverse sitting still.
started up this am put in drive and it ran for 48 seconds before it started to shake longet it runs the worse it gets Put in neutral or park or drive off it’s gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I just posted yesterday you have the same thing as I To a tee. I will follow your post for updates and will add anything we come across.
i own a exhaust shop it is not the cat on my end checked it today.
my engine does not shut off it just shakes.when you take off it is fine like nothing wrong.
just does it in drive or in reverse sitting still.
started up this am put in drive and it ran for 48 seconds before it started to shake longet it runs the worse it gets Put in neutral or park or drive off it’s gone.
OMG YES! Mine doesn't shut off either, but I am so happy hearing that someone has the same issues. Not really, because the shaking is annoying as hell and wish this upon no one. If it were a mount shake I wouldn't care much.

If you don't mind me asking, on your door sticker at the top, what is your build date?

Ps. I just read through your post as well. You crossed off some ideas in my head, but you are right it is almost like someone is staging with load. With the cat idea gone and load on the engine and you did plugs and map(the one in the intake box area, right?) Theres 3. I have almost no doubt in my mind it is more than likely a bad map sensor or high resistance across the splices according to the recall. I haven't had the time yet, or check out the stock tune with HPTuners yet to see if and why the tc would act that way and if the values are enabled then.

Even though it isn't throwing a cel, one of 3 can still be bad tricking the computer that there is load to change the afr and ignition. Maybe I can get a tailpipe sniffer on it soon. Omg so excited now. Hahaha.

Did your tranny fluid come out like black water too?
 

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I have car at my shop but will check build date. Map was in hose in boot of intake filter box .
Ford did complete flush don’t know color I just wanted complete flush torq. And all.
i will say it just passed a e check prior to me buying we don’t have e check in our area but I will say I work on exhaust every day all day and this has a nasty fume smell to it . Not like any cars I see on a daily thing just have not figured it out yet.( I do know what bad cats smell like and it’s not that ) more of a fume smell.
when you put it in gear with foot on brake and other on gas does your gas not raise up? (Rpm) Mine don’t, you can’t raise the rpms till you take foot off brake...... like gas pedal is dead till foot taken off brake. Very odd to me .
 

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Honestly I didn't even try that due to visually inspecting the mounts and the guy already replacing them. I will check that today. May be a part of the programming a lot of vehicles have. I hear you on the cats I know that smell too well, but I don't have fumes with mine. I really wish there were a code, a dirty throttle body wouldn't cause this, but one that wouldn't let air in at idle would. Nor would a bad tps sensor unless that triggers load.

I was going to do a leak test, but it seems like a moot point now. I figured if it was the torque converter it would exibit it at other points. When idle you can shift to sport and slip it into 2nd gear with button and it still shakes. During our lockdown I may do the wiring tsb
 

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Mine is not mounts checked off anyways since I did them.
im starting to look towards electrical of some sort either sensors or communications.
when I’m in gear foot on brake and other foot on gas I can not give it gas to rev up like to bring up rpm off 5 to say 9 .
so something is holding or telling something not to allow. And it’s pulling rpm down under a load.
Is yours doing the same thing ?
 

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Honestly I didn't even try that due to visually inspecting the mounts and the guy already replacing them. I will check that today. May be a part of the programming a lot of vehicles have. I hear you on the cats I know that smell too well, but I don't have fumes with mine. I really wish there were a code, a dirty throttle body wouldn't cause this, but one that wouldn't let air in at idle would. Nor would a bad tps sensor unless that triggers load.

I was going to do a leak test, but it seems like a moot point now. I figured if it was the torque converter it would exibit it at other points. When idle you can shift to sport and slip it into 2nd gear with button and it still shakes. During our lockdown I may do the wiring tsb
Build date was 8/13
 

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Attached are two logs. One with it in park and one in drive. Gives an idea of what is going on with the vehicle. I still can't come to a conclusion, but I did post on hptuners and asked them too


76557
76558
 

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Dang I didn’t do a snap shot today but I was doing the same thing a few values that I remember was very very similar. I can’t do it now but I will Thursday.
Ok want to tell ya what I ran into today but had to order the part don’t know if it’s the fix or not but check yours you can’t see it until you pull it off.
Air box then you have the ripple hose then you have the plastic ducting pull that ducting off and see if the seal is waisted there the two PLASTIC DUCTS come together. Mine is and hoping this was the problem I ordered it today have it Thursday.
 

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Forgot to mention the funny thing is is that his check engine light was on the other day but I missed it and he didn't get it scanned I'm waiting for it to pop up again. Unless the ribbes hose it is on the boost side it may be a vacuum leak, but if its close to the airbox it may not be much of an issue. Who knows though I have seen weirder!

He did say when the cel popped up he couldn't even hit the gas and it was stumbling like a misfire but it wouldnt go anywhere.
 

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I was shifting from neutral to drive and watching the scanner to see what was changing.
That plastic duct seal was the first thing I really ran into that was bad so far 107.00 Detroit had 4 in stock
It’s on the bottom back side.
 

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It’s not where the ribbed hose connects it’s on down the line where the 2 plastic pieces connect the connection seal.
 
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