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I replaced mine. I bought new at les schwab for $2 each. The guy I talked to was familiar with the problem, said they are cheap pot metal lug nut with a thin metal sleeve over them and didn't last long. The ones I bought looked quality but he said they all come from China.
 

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Replaced all my lug nuts today with McGard 64012. Local ford dealer had rotated the tires three times and were the only ones to touch my wheels, but in July I rotated my own tires and found one swollen lug nut that was difficult to remove. This weekend I rotated my tires again and had two additional lug nuts on a different wheel that I struggled with, needing a hammer and channel locks for assistance and ultimately one of the caps came off. I have every reason to believe that the original lug nuts will continue to deteriorate so I replaced them so that I don't get stranded somewhere becasue I can't get a lug nut off.

I read a lot of the comments here before buying the McGard's and there's a lot of good info on their website that I followed to make sure the lugs seated correctly. Even though the McGard's are taller and the cone diameter is a little different, it's still a 60 degree cone and they appear to seat properly in the wheel. I am also keeping five original lug nuts in the car for the spare tire per McGard's recommendation.
 

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Another casualty of torque sticks, which are often improperly used, causing them to VERY BADLY over torque your lug nuts.

I'm not 100% certain this happened..but when they mushroom out like that its because the metal is fairly soft enough.. add 100+ foot pounds and they can deform.
 

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Even more reason to replace them, if the dealer's impact wrenches can easily damage them AND my own torque wrench set at 100 ft-lbs can easily damage them, then I don't want them on my car as they're a safety hazard.
 

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I could not find any nuts to enable me to use my winter steelies with the factory hubcaps. The dealer charges $10/ nut.
 

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I could not find any nuts to enable me to use my winter steelies with the factory hubcaps. The dealer charges $10/ nut.
Whoa. That's Bangkok prices!
 

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Evil!
 

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I have used and they work great, so yes to ones eye they do look different , only a small amount around but the seat angle is the same the poster who added the photo's it shows the difference , factory has a more fuller seat top area so they can crimp that junk stainless steel cover over and unto. that is where the issue comes up.
3.000 miles latter ands still holding the proper torque


 

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I could not find any nuts to enable me to use my winter steelies with the factory hubcaps. The dealer charges $10/ nut.
steel wheels? any parts store should have open 12x1.25 thread nuts in stock for around a buck each
what matters is the seat angle which is 60 degs the chrome bluge acorn ones I got from amazon do fit my stock spare steel rim
 

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^^^ "...with the factory hubcaps..." is the key here; they use an integral friction-clip that grabs the top of the lug nut so the top of the nut has to be a certain size and shape to allow that; 'generic' lugs, even though proper fit for the purpose of mounting the wheel itself, don't work.

This in reference to using the small hubcaps that are OEM for the Escape "S" with steel wheels.
 

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Lug nuts

I just came back from having the Blizzaks taken off my wife’s 23,000 miles 2016 Titanium. The advisor said most of the caps in the lug nuts were swollen. This was at a shop that I trust and had been doing business with for many years. The tires had been rotated 4 times In the last plus taken off last winter to have the Blizzaks mounted . Does not seem like the best quality nuts from the factory .
 

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I just came back from having the Blizzaks taken off my wife’s 23,000 miles 2016 Titanium. The advisor said most of the caps in the lug nuts were swollen. This was at a shop that I trust and had been doing business with for many years. The tires had been rotated 4 times In the last plus taken off last winter to have the Blizzaks mounted . Does not seem like the best quality nuts from the factory .
I merged your thread with an existing one on the same topic. If you do a search, you will find other threads on this.
 

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Yep, it's pretty sad that this is such a common problem. I had to replace mine at the end of last year.

My 2007 Kia has capped lugs just like the Escape, and they're still all original. It's spent its entire life in Minnesota.
 

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Expensive swollen nuts? That's nuts!

In Canada, ask your Ford parts man to ad "WSP" to the suffix of the part number. For example: C6VZ 1012 D to CV6Z 1012 DWSP . The price drops!!! ( your jaw will too! )


On my 2017 , I sealed the edge of the cap to the nut. Maybe moisture is getting in there. The wheel studs are never rusty, so the water is not getting in from behind. I know sockets can deform these caps too, so be gentle with your nuts.


Guys in the U.S.A., let us know of you can get the "WSP" (winter service pack) nuts also.

Regards, Convict from Canada:|
 

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Guys in the U.S.A., let us know of you can get the "WSP" (winter service pack) nuts also.
Very interesting...I can't find them in any of the online parts catalogs I usually use. Autonation Ford sells the -D nuts for $4.26 each.
 

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As the manager of Discount Tire said, its manufactures trying to cut costs on the smallest things. Like lug nuts. Replaced all lug nuts for 14 bucks, problem solved.
 

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Chrome nuts or stainless cap nuts............In the sizzling seventies, Ford had OEM chrome lug nuts. In BC , Canada, they would eventually rust , becoming orange in color.
Was the current stainless steel capped nuts introduced , to eliminated the "rusty nut" syndrome, thus creating a "swollen nut" syndrome ? ....or was it to reduce costs? Let's blame it on GM! They had these capped nuts in the mid seventies.
 
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