2013+ Ford Escape Forum banner

41 - 60 of 66 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I just replaced my 2014 FE lug nuts after I stumbled over this thread. I got the DP Accessories (DPA-D3116-HT-2305/20) from Amazon. I had just done the brakes on all 4 wheels and thought the 19mm socket fit pretty tight, trouble getting them out. Didn't think too much of it until I found this thread and link to class action lawsuit site. The replacements I bought are nice quality and were only around $23 for the set. My original lug nuts have survived the normal tire rotations/changes etc, and really didn't look swollen except for the fit of the socket. On some nuts, socket would not fit all the way on. I could see where it wouldn't have been long before socket would have to have been hammered on to get the lug nut off.

Hopefully my dealer won't lose/misplace or 'replace' my new lug nuts with some old ones lying on the shop floor....
Ford service QC is pretty bad at the 2 dealers I've used over the years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Very common size, used by lots of auto manufactures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
Ford Escape Lug Nuts don’t fit wrench.
Lug nuts too big ?!

Socket doesn’t fit. Not 19mm, not 3/4. 13/16 too big. Found this out when going to change the rear shocks. Couldn’t get the damn wheel off. 20mm is not in most socket sets, I have two and both skip to 21mm. So couldn’t try that.

(Seems like no reason to start a new thread on this. If mods want to move it, fine)

Had no idea this was a problem, that’s how I found this forum. Not the first time I’ve encountered capped lug nut issues though. That was on an English car. There’s lots of things on English cars that are questionable, but apparently the same mistakes are made 20 years later. 90’s Range Rover had stainless caps over the nut. Eventually they go and just spin, making it so you can’t remove the wheel. With those wheels there was room to dremel and chisel the caps off with the wheels on the car. The Escape wheels would be much more difficult, so I wasn’t going to go that way unless truly desperate.

Looking into it, I ordered a flip socket with 19.5mm/18.5mm to try and get them off. Got the whole set.

CTA 1463 5 Piece Flip Socket Set 1/2 inch drive
C2285D74-77A8-4781-8C6B-0B38D55B44A3.jpeg


You need an extension to use the flip sockets.

Ordered the McGuard M12 x 1.5 64015 Black Lug Nuts. The outside is 3/4 hex, not 19mm.
Here’s a size comparison:

18mm = .709in
18.5mm = .728
19mm = .748
3/4in = .750in
19.5mm = .768
20mm = .787
13/16in = .813in
21mm = .827

Got black because when the car goes to the dealer they’ll be less likely to accidentally give me someone else’s lug nuts. Just one can ruin the whole reason for going solid.

So...of course the 19.5mm socket wouldn’t fit all the nuts on the first wheel. 13/16 still too big. Plan to dominate bulging lug nuts thwarted!
I’m still not chiseling the damn things off. They’re too recessed.

This necessitated going out and finding a 20mm socket. Maybe that will work. First two places didn’t have it. Eventually drove 25 minutes in the rain to an O’Reilly’s that was still open.

Thankfully, the 20mm, 19.5mm, 3/4 sockets, and a mallet covered all the nuts. No chiseling needed.

On the first wheel, 3 of the 5 nuts needed the 20mm socket pounded on. Only one other wheel needed the 20mm. The rest could be done by the 19.5mm or 3/4 socket.

Tools of bulging lug nut domination:
34A56AD8-3889-4017-8514-0EFB88539734.jpeg


The tools. Small piece of plywood to pound the socket on. You really want to get it on there. You can make it worse if not on enough. If the 19.5mm won’t go on, go to the 20mm.

That’s a 3/4 inch drive ratchet with 3/4 to 1/2 adapter I got years ago. (Facom, back when it was much less expensive. Love that thing!) Highly recommend a 3/4 drive breaker or ratchet. I have a 1/2in Snap On that’s like 26 inches. I’ve had that thing severely bent on bolts and backed off for fear of damage. This 3/4 doesn’t bend.

Unscrew the nut most of the way but still on the stud, and tap the socket back and forth to dislodge from the nut. Tap and spin. First one I took it off I left in, then used a screw driver to try to pound it out of the socket. The nut is open, and it goes through the cap. Use a solid dowel/bolt/punch if you go that route. Easier on the stud.

B6B1B3A2-2313-4F83-B686-17B364F99B34.jpeg

The nuts with dremeled off caps. I did 5 for the spare. A dremel with the thin non reinforced abrasive wheels was used. Just what I had at the time. Got through prob 2 nuts per abrasive wheel. You don’t need to go across the top that much. I started by cutting almost all the way across the top. Not really necessary.
When you get all the way through, you’ll hear a slight click as the cap releases from the nut. Victory! Then a prying apart with a screwdriver and it’s off.
Lacking a set of spare eyeballs I used glasses. Those abrasive dremel wheels have a tendency to explode.( It’s also an advantage with dremels to be left handed as the dust goes away from you.)

Pictures can be deceiving. There’s really no corrosion even though it might look like it. Those nuts are 98k miles and 5 1/2 yrs on the road. Through snowy winters with salted roads. I didn’t even spray them with WD 40 and wipe before the photo. . Any rust would come right off with a spray and a little Scotch Brite.

So “swelling” from corrosion has nothing to do with it I’d say. I think the sheet metal just gets worked a bit each time with impact sockets. So you’re working it in both directions putting on and taking off. I would guess that the lug nuts getting bigger from only using hand tools just wouldn’t happen or would be extremely rare. Sheet metal workers use vibrating hammers to make metal into all sorts of shapes. Essentially, air impact sockets are doing this work on the stainless steel sheet cap on the nut. Likely, even careful use of those tools wouldn’t do that much or would take a long time to distort.

While the wheels were off I cleaned up the mounting surface on the hubs and the inside of the wheel. Then put a thin layer of brake caliper grease on the surfaces.

254864F3-D332-4177-818C-6E9BF1F65218.jpeg

Inside of wheel after brushing and wd40 cleaning. I later cleaned the whole inside with mag wheel cleaner to not great effect but better than yearsof grime. Don’t know what people use for that, I just had some foamy spray aluminum wheel cleaner lying around.

17DA9064-3F2F-4B87-9A22-372CFDDE1C8F.jpeg

Used a DMT large diamond stone, 60 micron/220 mesh, to hone the mounting surface. The inside ring is slightly lower. Figured that was by design and didn’t hone the outside down to that level. Really just a light clean up. I didn’t have my small diamond stones handy to do the inner ring, so just left it.

Finished product:

F2C9E0DC-A6FF-47BE-A189-A88366D88D48.jpeg


Note, the McGuard nuts are longer than the Ford stock nuts. Some may not like it, esp on like a Ford Fusion. On the Escape I find them perfectly acceptable. They’re also not recommended for steel wheels. I guess that means the spare.

I purchased a 3/4 inch breaker bar and a 3/4 drive, 3/4 inch impact socket to keep in the car. No need for adapter. I could probably jump on that thing if I have to to get a nut off. At least with my wheels, stock 17 inch 3014 aluminum, there’s no need for thin wall sockets. The beefy 3/4 impact fits just fine. I also got a 3/4 to 1/2 inch drive adapter to keep with it. Never know. I’ll pick up an 18mm for the decapped lugs or maybe I’ll just buy 5 solid M12 x 1.5 with a wide cone and open end for the spare.
C0C31CB9-FF55-4A28-8CB1-6BDC41932207.jpeg


It fits in nicely by the spare if you cut a notch in the foam support:
42A73E62-9A92-4C10-9D3D-730AFE2EDC64.jpeg


I purchased the tools from:

Their website search engine is pretty bad. If you paste in the tool in search though, they often have it even though general search didn’t show it.

  • CTA 1463 5 piece flip socket set
  • KT Tool 24080 3/4 inch Chrome Breaker Bar 20inch.
  • KT Tool 24050 3/4 in female to 1/2in male adapter
  • Grey Pneumatic 3024D 3/4 drive 3/4 deep impact socket
Plus 20mm 1/2 drive deep socket from O’Reilly’s.

That’s not a cheap solution for mobile lug wrench. There’s cheaper ways to go. I would def get something other than the short stock lug nut tool. Even just the 100 ft-lbs of specified torque can get tough to remove. Who knows what they’re at when the Gorilla guns get done with them.

Once you use a 3/4 inch drive ratchet or bar, you won’t go back. A 36 inch long 1/2 drive is kind of stupid. Flexes like crazy. With a much shorter 3/4 bar you could jump up and down on the thing, or pound it with a rock if you had to. (Wrapped with a cloth of course!)

(Not totally thrilled with the KT bar. The drive part is too floppy. I may try some stainless thin wavy washers. Or tighten the pivot. Bar itself looks beefy, chrome is good. Could use more chamfer at end of handle. Adapter is nice. The Grey Pneumatic socket is very nice, and beefy. First 3/4 drive socket I’ve gotten.)

The wheel nuts came from
- McGuard M12 x 1.5 Bulge Cone Black Lug Nuts # 60415

Just trying to avoid amazon these days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
716 Posts
They’re [McGard nuts] also not recommended for steel wheels. I guess that means the spare.
I hadn't thought of that. Good point. I'll put 5 of the old lug nuts with the spare. I've got some foam that I can cut so the lugs aren't rolling around the back of the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I recently had this lug nut issue. I purchased my 2016 Escape a week before I was traveling from the States to Montreal for a short vacation. It's a 12 hour drive, going through Detroit and Toronto. On my way home, I had a cut in my rear driver side tire where I needed to put the spare on. Unfortunately I nearly got stranded in the middle of nowhere between Toronto and Detroit because it was a Sunday afternoon. Thankfully I came across a guy that helped me out. The next day I had the tire replaced and all the lugnuts as well. To replace the entire set of lugnuts, it was only $40.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
To replace the entire set of lugnuts, it was only $40.
That’s what I suspect - tire stores access a large supply of lug nuts. The stock Ford capped lug nut seems to be $3.50 -4.50+ Dealer maybe twice that.

Seems like the steel wheel nuts have a taller shoulder. But, descriptions are vague at best.

CV6Z-1012-D
2C2FE3E7-5DF5-4BE3-AAC8-6C211BD93CB5.jpeg
17 inch, with steel wheels. 16, alloy wheel. 15, with alloy wheel.

ACPZ-1012-H replaces CV6Z-1012-C
D32D3293-28A4-4AB6-A55F-CCBD54CD50F4.jpeg
Exposed. 18. 16. 17. 20. 19 inch. 19, 2013-2016.

From:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
796 Posts
After reading about other's swollen lug nuts I've finally got my own case with my Escape. I've never had a problem and change my summer tires and winter tires out myself each year. Today I noticed it was very difficult to get the socket onto many of the lugs and a couple of them ended up damaged... just bought some different tools to get them off. Hopefully one of the tools will work.

I had an extra set of aftermarket lug nuts in case I ever need them... guess I'll be swapping them all out when I next remove the summer tires and install the winter tires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
and what is the Overall width of McGard 69415? It is not indicated at McGard web page.

Note OEM 17" alloy wheel (ACPZ-1012-H / CV6Z-1012-C ) OEM nuts have 28mm = 1.10 inch overall width... and this is very important I think...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Purchased new 2016 Ford Escape SE. Went for an oil change and tire rotation and was told the lug nuts were swollen and they couldn't rotate the tires for fear the lug nuts would break. BUT FOR A MERE 125.00 they could! Now here is my question...ARE THEY REPLACING ALL 20...OR A FEW OR WHAT? My friend looked at them when I got home and said they all didn't need replacing. Ok...we get the tool THAT CAME W/THE CAR out and LOW AND BEHOLD...it DOESN'T FIT the ORIGINAL LUG NUTS! I've contacted Ford via email and got the DUE TO THE VIRUS IT MAY TAKE A MINUTE FOR A RESPONSE...but they'd get back to me! I've read the lug nut issue is an issue!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Purchased new 2016 Ford Escape SE. Went for an oil change and tire rotation and was told the lug nuts were swollen and they couldn't rotate the tires for fear the lug nuts would break. BUT FOR A MERE 125.00 they could! Now here is my question...ARE THEY REPLACING ALL 20...OR A FEW OR WHAT? My friend looked at them when I got home and said they all didn't need replacing. Ok...we get the tool THAT CAME W/THE CAR out and LOW AND BEHOLD...it DOESN'T FIT the ORIGINAL LUG NUTS! I've contacted Ford via email and got the DUE TO THE VIRUS IT MAY TAKE A MINUTE FOR A RESPONSE...but they'd get back to me! I've read the lug nut issue is an issue!
Had a new 2016 SE 4WD for two years. Same issue about one year in... Apparently the OEM lug nuts were "two piece" construction, allowing moisture inside. The resulting bimetallic corrosion is what "swells" the lug nuts. The problem is real. I paid $180 to a Ford dealer to remove old, replace with new, and new design lug nuts. Go ahead and bite the bullet. If you get a flat, you'll be happy that you had it taken care of. I traded the car in 2018 for a Titanium 4WD so I can't comment on the "new" lug nuts on that 2016...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Just buy a new set of aftermarket lug nuts. I bought a set of McGard 64012 lug nuts two years ago and have had no problems since.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tall Timbers

·
Registered
Joined
·
956 Posts
Can someone measure the length of the Ford OEM lug nuts that are the problem? I have two sets of lugs for both Escapes. The original ones, and another set of lugs that came with Tirerack winter wheels and tires. They are noticable different in height (length). I've swapped them back and forth enough times that I have lost track which are the Ford lugs and which are the ones from Tirerack, which presumable don't have this issue. Thanks, in advance. :)

BTW, both sets of lugs are fine so far. I haven't seen any swelling yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Not another thread on swollen lug nuts.
Do a search for lug nuts and you will find many complaints on the forum about bulging/swollen OEM lug nuts. I replaced mine with the DPAccessories lug nuts about 4 years ago. So far after getting new tires installed and several tire rotations by Discount Tire they still look brand new. I have not seen any rust on them as stated in some of the Amazon reviews, but in TN the winters are mild so not much salt on our roads. https://www.amazon.com/DPAccessories-D3116-HT-2305-20-Chrome-12x1-5/dp/B00H1IBKIK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=DPA+lug+nuts&qid=1588776405&sr=8-1

New DPAccessories lug nut and OEM lug nut after 6 tire rotations.
76854
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,001 Posts
Purchased new 2016 Ford Escape SE. Went for an oil change and tire rotation and was told the lug nuts were swollen and they couldn't rotate the tires for fear the lug nuts would break. BUT FOR A MERE 125.00 they could! Now here is my question...ARE THEY REPLACING ALL 20...OR A FEW OR WHAT? My friend looked at them when I got home and said they all didn't need replacing. Ok...we get the tool THAT CAME W/THE CAR out and LOW AND BEHOLD...it DOESN'T FIT the ORIGINAL LUG NUTS! I've contacted Ford via email and got the DUE TO THE VIRUS IT MAY TAKE A MINUTE FOR A RESPONSE...but they'd get back to me! I've read the lug nut issue is an issue!
I merged your thread with this existing thread on the same topic. A quick search would have found this quite easily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
956 Posts
BobP … Can you please measure the height of that OEM lug not and post it for me? I'll also send you an IM. Looks like it is the shorter of the two lugs I'm looking at. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Paul,
Yes, the oem lug nut is the shorter one on the right. I do not have them anymore. The current part number is ACPZ-1012-H. I checked Tasca but they do not give the dimensions. These look like the same height as the OEMs, 32mm/1.26" height/lenght. Dorman Products - 611-303.1
The DPAccessories lug nut height is 35.6mm/1.4".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
So my Esc a pay was purchased and ONLY serviced by the same dealer for 50,000 plus miles ... today he says I have swollen lug nuts ... really ???

The dealer will be more than happy to replace them for $130.00 with the same exact ones. Now why in the world would I do that if the ones that Ford provided were swollen... This must not be a new issue ... of course they are claiming its not their fault and its not a defective part but wear and tear. Yeah right ....

The real issue is Ford is knowingly providing lug nuts with cases that when subject to impact wrench torque are breaking the cases and distorting them causing the issue but no its not a defect in the part ... right my you know what.

So I bought a new set at AutoZone took my Esc a Pay to discount tires where they removed my swollen lug nuts and put on decent quality lug nuts, had to work for a while to get the defective Ford parts off and then guess what ?

Those great people at Discount Tires did not charge me anything!!!


Believe me this is my LAST FORD VEHICLE EVER!
I just had mine replaced. The quick lane manager did not charge me but I did have to order my own lug nuts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
Paul,
Yes, the oem lug nut is the shorter one on the right. I do not have them anymore. The current part number is ACPZ-1012-H. I checked Tasca but they do not give the dimensions. These look like the same height as the OEMs, 32mm/1.26" height/lenght. Dorman Products - 611-303.1
The DPAccessories lug nut height is 35.6mm/1.4".
Keep in mind that the "New" part number I believe is of the same design and composition as the ones you already had issue with so, I suspect it will have the same problem as the originals that came on the vehicle. I opted to not buy Ford lug nuts for my daughters 2017 when I replaced them as a preventative measure. Even the ones from my 2008 Mustang that were made before the problematic ones are now designed with the same built-in issue.

Just go aftermarket.
 
41 - 60 of 66 Posts
Top