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Just want to throw this out there, you don't want to disconnect any terminals while the car is running. This trick is fine on older cars without all the complex computer jazz, but can result in major damage to the electronics.
 

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I'm new to the forum, and to be honest, I never used one before, but I have an issue and may need your input. My wife has a 2016 Escape Titanium, and about 2 weeks ago while I was driving the backup camera suddenly stayed on where I could see the road behind. When I got to the house I had to turn on and off the car a couple of times to get it to stay off once in parking. I noticed the screen kind of stayed on (blue) for a little while then was off. The following day when I tried to turn on the car the battery was dead. I checked the voltage and had 6.7 volts. I removed the battery and charged the battery overnight back to 13.5 v and installed back and the car started right up, then I removed the positive terminal to check if the alternator was charging and the car stayed on during that test. Another thing I remember happened the next day when everything started was a TRRRRRR like vibration noise coming from around the engine and it lasted like 30 seconds then went off, all this with the engine off. Then the next morning the same thing happened "battery dead", After charging the battery "again" I hooked up the multimeter to perform a parasite draw test and this is the result I got. (not sure if I did it right)...
-Removed the negative terminal and completed circuit with my meter set up to read Amps with the passenger door open I got 5.17Amps
-Closed and locked the car and after 2 min reading started going down to 2.21Amps
- After 2 min went down to 1.023Amps
-After 2 min went down to 0.415Amps
-After 4 min suddenly went up to 3.129Amps, 3.013, 2.374, 0.251, 0.037, then stayed on 0.017Amps for a while. One thing that I noticed when the reading started going up was like a click sound on the speakers if I remember correctly.
At this point, I left the battery disconnected to prevent another drainage hoping that I can get some help from you guys.
Some data needed: has the battery been replaced? Miles on car? Corrosion on battery terminal and cables? Has BMS been reset?
If you have not check forum for battery issues. Battery problem can be a source of funny electronics issues.
Finally, did you do either a hard or soft reset of Sync system.
 

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2016 Escape Titanium
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The battery was replaced almost a year ago. The car has 55k miles. No corrosion on terminals or cables. I haven't done any reset of the BMS or the Sync System since I'm not familiar with neither of them, but any help will greatly be appreciated.
 

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The battery was replaced almost a year ago. The car has 55k miles. No corrosion on terminals or cables. I haven't done any reset of the BMS or the Sync System since I'm not familiar with neither of them, but any help will greatly be appreciated.
Your manual should have directions with a soft reset. Try that first as you will not lose any data. If it does not work do the hard reset through the settings menu. You will lose data on that. Assuming you have Sync 3. For BMS reset, read the threads on thus board on that topic.
 
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