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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
"Please turn ignition off or start engine"

This pops up when starting the vehicle or when returning to the vehicle after shutting it off. No rhyme or reason behind it. When this happens the alarm when pulling it into the garage and approaching the rear wall changes to a higher pitch and the constant tone that should happen when I am close to the rear wall never happens.

Also while driving the alarm will periodically trigger and a message "Collision Assistance Unavailable" will pop up. This has happened several times with no vehicle in front of me and it is loud enough to startle me.

Has anyone else run into this. The dealership insists there is nothing wrong with the vehicle.
 

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Patherton,
Concerning "Please turn ignition off or start engine", when you shut off the car, this msg comes up after you turn it on. It's the last thing you would see if you stayed in the car after turning it off. It's simply the last msg displayed after a short time being off. After you start the car, you see the msg and then it disappears, correct? I don't know that there is anything that can fix this until there is a software update.

For "Collision Assistance Unavailable"
Is there any snow on the front of your vehicle? If so, this will prevent the camera located near the front bumper from seeing traffic. When this happens, you will see that msg if cruise control is turned on.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Patherton,
Concerning "Please turn ignition off or start engine", when you shut off the car, this msg comes up after you turn it on. It's the last thing you would see if you stayed in the car after turning it off. It's simply the last msg displayed after a short time being off. After you start the car, you see the msg and then it disappears, correct? I don't know that there is anything that can fix this until there is a software update.

For "Collision Assistance Unavailable"
Is there any snow on the front of your vehicle? If so, this will prevent the camera located near the front bumper from seeing traffic. When this happens, you will see that msg if cruise control is turned on.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply,

The collision assistance msg pops up even if I'm driving through a parking lot, no cruise control involved, Yesterday it happened as I pulled away from a stop sign, no cars anywhere in sight.

The Please turn ignition off or start engine shows up in a few different situations. Sometimes if I return to the car and open the lift gate then get into the car, the message is there, sometimes after the car has been in the garage for a day it appears when I get into the car.

More annoying though is the high pitched alarm that just gets faster as I approach the rear of the garage. Not the normal one that gets faster then turns into a constant tone before you stop and trun of the engine. It's a totally different noise.

Then there's the Sync display that changes to the GPS instead of the Audio screen. All of the above happens in conjunction with the please turn ignition off...
 

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2020 Escape AWD Hybrid Titanium
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Collision assistance can be a pain in the butt, but the message is usually shown for a reason. Given the Maple Leaf, I'll assume you're somewhere cold and snowy, like me, but haven't had a Summer of driving yet. I get two kinds, perimeter alarm and stop-n-go cruise.

Perimeter alarm will pop up randomly, especially when I stop. It's not persistent, and will go away when the weather warms. The message I get tells me that one of the little round perimeter sensors is blocked. I'm lazy about snow clearance, and will get slush sculptures around the wheels when it's snowing. I ignore them, because I've spent a Summer without them. Your car's new, so you could have an assembly issue, eg. a loose plug on a sensor.

I also wonder if the high-pitched alarm isn't a panic alarm activated when a sensor is down, and other sensors tell the perimeter alarm the inoperative sensor should be in alarm mode.

There is a button to disable perimeter alarms, near the console. It's marked with a "PA-like" symbol.

... the camera located near the front bumper ...
Stop-n-go cruise control uses a RADAR sensor under the front bumper. (The front camera is above the rearview mirror.) This sensor can also become blocked, although that requires substantial snow build-up. It also gives two messages, one about the sensor, another that cruise control is unavailable.

And yes, I've seen "Please turn ignition off and start engine" but I can't recall the exact circumstances. In some respects these cars are too smart of our own good. And then auto-braking saves the day!

HAve fun,
Frank
 

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You can set the collision avoidance distance using the controls on the left steering wheel keypad.
The system is live at all times unless you disable it, (so it's not reliant on the cruise being enabled) make sure your windshield is clean in front of the rear view mirror mount and that there isn't any snow in the front grill areas.
If everything is clear you need a trip to the dealer to troubleshoot the problem.

btw PA isn't perimeter alarms, it's Park Assist.
 

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I have had my 2020 Escape Hybrid into the dealership for the above error message no less than 6 times. The message seems to come up when the car has sat (overnight) or for awhile and the doors are opened up. Sometimes the Ford Emblem screen comes up first then the "System off to save battery, please turn ignition off or start engine" error comes up or the error message comes up first, then the small green progression bar line underneath the message, goes very slow...and then the computer screen will go black. Then I'll shut the car door (car is still off) and re-open the door and the error message will come on again, sometimes where the green progression bar left off previously (as if it didn't have time to totally cycle through the error, and is picking up where it left off ). The dealership has replaced all kinds of things for this and nothing has worked. The error message is coming up more often. I can't figure out a rhyme or reason for when it comes on. The dealership is unable to verify it, yet the message comes up so much, its laughable. They have kept my vehicle overnight a few times to do "battery draws" but nothing is discovered by that. I have taken several videos showing the error message coming up. My battery monitor system (BMS) has been replaced along with the battery being replaced. Neither one has fixed the issue. My dealership has contacted an Engineer at Ford several times now for this issue and I have to bring in my vehicle again for an overnight stay to do some other type of "battery draw". I have lost confidence in my dealership along with Ford Engineers. I can't tell you how frustrated I am with this. On another note, I have had this vehicle in the dealership for a slew of other things such as : back up camera replaced (turned out to be an issue with most of the back up cameras) Front head light replaced (it was holding water), Catalytic Converter replaced (engine light kept coming on) Moon roof shade cover replaced (was jumping the track) Drivers seat active-X cover replaced (tore at the outer edge-design flaw, considering where the stitching is). I really like the concept of the hybrid car and I do enjoy this vehicle, but for nothing else this is a lesson to myself, never to get a first year release of a vehicle because there are so many issues that needed to be worked out.
 

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I presume you have nothing plugged into the 'live' 12V port that may drain the battery.
I believe there are other threads here that claim these batteries are nowhere near strong enough to cope with the hybrid technology and in many cases owners have replaced them with a more suitable battery.

Other hybrid owners may correct me or give more info regarding this.
 

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Some folks think the 12v chassis battery is the problem. Those of us who never see a problem know it's the car.

17 months old today, 25,747 miles per FordPass, with a voltmeter in my dash outlet as a benchmark for anyone with a problem. I see normal ~15v charging voltage while running, a 13.0v maintenance mode (once), and normal 12.somehting voltages when turned off. I've tried to stress the 12v by forcing software updates, and all I got was a complete map update. Got into deep sleep mode once, through disuse. No complaints here!!

And let me note how thankful I am to not have chassis battery issues, here or in the C-Max that preceded it. (Early C-Max had the same 12v issues.)
 

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I have had my 2020 Escape Hybrid into the dealership for the above error message no less than 6 times. The message seems to come up when the car has sat (overnight) or for awhile and the doors are opened up. Sometimes the Ford Emblem screen comes up first then the "System off to save battery, please turn ignition off or start engine" error comes up or the error message comes up first, then the small green progression bar line underneath the message, goes very slow...and then the computer screen will go black. Then I'll shut the car door (car is still off) and re-open the door and the error message will come on again, sometimes where the green progression bar left off previously (as if it didn't have time to totally cycle through the error, and is picking up where it left off ). The dealership has replaced all kinds of things for this and nothing has worked. The error message is coming up more often. I can't figure out a rhyme or reason for when it comes on. The dealership is unable to verify it, yet the message comes up so much, its laughable. They have kept my vehicle overnight a few times to do "battery draws" but nothing is discovered by that. I have taken several videos showing the error message coming up. My battery monitor system (BMS) has been replaced along with the battery being replaced. Neither one has fixed the issue. My dealership has contacted an Engineer at Ford several times now for this issue and I have to bring in my vehicle again for an overnight stay to do some other type of "battery draw". I have lost confidence in my dealership along with Ford Engineers. I can't tell you how frustrated I am with this. On another note, I have had this vehicle in the dealership for a slew of other things such as : back up camera replaced (turned out to be an issue with most of the back up cameras) Front head light replaced (it was holding water), Catalytic Converter replaced (engine light kept coming on) Moon roof shade cover replaced (was jumping the track) Drivers seat active-X cover replaced (tore at the outer edge-design flaw, considering where the stitching is). I really like the concept of the hybrid car and I do enjoy this vehicle, but for nothing else this is a lesson to myself, never to get a first year release of a vehicle because there are so many issues that needed to be worked out.
Much of your story could have been written by me a few months ago, I know the frustration. I'd first suggest making sure the dealership has attempted the ABS module update that has fixed the problem for many (Service Bulletin SSM 49574). Otherwise, please take a look at this thread and consider upgrading to a Group 48 AGM battery. It would an added expense since the dealership is unlikely to pay for it, but it's definitely worth your sanity.


My battery/vehicle now remains fully charged and error free since the upgrade. The larger capacity AGM battery is longer lasting, has double the RC, charges much faster, and is sealed. Even if it doesn't fix your issue, you'll have a better battery in every way.

 

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Some folks know upgrading the battery to larger capacity AGM fixed their problem
Those of us who never see a problem know it's the car.
Please learn to recognize empirical evidence when presented. I call that a work-around, not a fix. Let's talk in 5 years.
 

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Please learn to recognize empirical evidence when presented. I call that a work-around, not a fix. Let's talk in 5 years.
Since you have no first hand knowledge of the problem, maybe chime in when you have something of value to contribute. Empirically, based on observation, experience and real-world testing, the larger AGM battery fixes the problem. When you have a better solution to bring to the table let us know, otherwise let's wait the 5 years to see who's right.

It is not hard to believe that Ford, the same company that decided to pinch pennies removing the engine cover on this model, the same company that is still manufacturing rattling premium B&O speakers on this model, would have settled on a battery that is barely capable operating the electrical system even under ideal conditions. That is my hypothesis, thus far backed by my observations. A better battery is indeed a fix for the under-sized battery, or a "work around" if you prefer.
 

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Much of your story could have been written by me a few months ago, I know the frustration. I'd first suggest making sure the dealership has attempted the ABS module update that has fixed the problem for many (Service Bulletin SSM 49574). Otherwise, please take a look at this thread and consider upgrading to a Group 48 AGM battery. It would an added expense since the dealership is unlikely to pay for it, but it's definitely worth your sanity.


My battery/vehicle now remains fully charged and error free since the upgrade. The larger capacity AGM battery is longer lasting, has double the RC, charges much faster, and is sealed. Even if it doesn't fix your issue, you'll have a better battery in every way.

Question: since the hybrid battery charges the 12 volt, could there be any adverse effects to the charging algorithms for it to charge an AGM?
 

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Question: since the hybrid battery charges the 12 volt, could there be any adverse effects to the charging algorithms for it to charge an AGM?
Well, the Motorcraft AGM battery is shown as the correct part for the 2020 Hybrid on Ford's website. I've not read a single instance here where upgrading the battery didn't fix a low voltage issue. It worked for me, mine is currently sitting in the garage at 12.8v (100%). Operation has been decidedly normal ever since.

For me it was 'give AGM a try' or Lemon Law
 

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Well, the Motorcraft AGM battery is shown as the correct part for the 2020 Hybrid on Ford's website. I tend to believe the 12v charging system was designed around an AGM battery (with larger capacity + 5x faster charging). In fact, I've not read a single instance here of an upgraded battery that did not fix low voltage issues. It worked for me, mine is currently sitting in the garage at 12.8v (100%). Operation has been decidedly normal ever since.

For me it was give AGM a try or Lemon Law
Thanks. I guess I should have said, larger AGM. Same question. What are your thoughts?
 

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Since you have no first hand knowledge of the problem,
Actually... the first thing a problem solving process does is find where a problem is found, and where it is not found. I speak for the latter. Otherwise, well-meaning people might waste money on a battery they don't need. Those with 12v issues may find an AGM beneficial, but I still think Ford ought to fix the cars.
 

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Actually... the first thing a problem solving process does is find where a problem is found, and where it is not found. I speak for the latter. Otherwise, well-meaning people might waste money on a battery they don't need. Those with 12v issues may find an AGM beneficial, but I still think Ford ought to fix the cars.
I'm well aware, you have not found it.

Once again you've went out of your way to chime in while saying nothing at all. Gee, you think Ford should just fix the cars - a real problem solver, this one.

Yes, AGM has been "beneficial". Sleeping well, knowing I no longer have low voltage issues is definitely beneficial.

Have there been examples here of people wasting money upgrading to AGM or are you just saving the unicorns in theory?

This is my last post on the forum. Good luck to everyone. Later......
 

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2014 Ford Escape Titanium, 2.0L, Sync 2 MFT
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I think everyone should calm down. This has been blown way out of proportion. Especially since there wasn’t really anything to argue about. Any future argument threads will be removed.
 
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