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I have a 2015 ford escape titanium that I added a Curt class 3 hitch.I also purchased a Curt t-connector wire harness. Someone told me that you can wire it into the rear fuse box . Does anyone know how to do it.
 

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Trailer Wiring Intsall

Here is what I used on my 2013 .

Installation of a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2013 Ford Escape - etrailer.com - YouTube Video


I was able to pick up "always on" power from the rear fuse box instead of running a power feed from the battery back to the trailer wiring converter . Saved some time, labor and wire .



Use one of these two terminals - Install inline fuse



Right Tail Light Removed





Cut Small hole in grommet to fish wire

Fish wire used to pull feed wire through

Inside fish wire at fuse block - use to pull feed wire through to Trailer Converter Box . 12v Feed

I also used 1/4" convoluted tubing over the feed wire to protect and sealed it at the grommet behind right tail light with silicone sealer.
 

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Here is what I used on my 2013 .
Use one of these two terminals - Install inline fuse
Right Tail Light Removed

Cut Small hole in grommet to fish wire

Fish wire used to pull feed wire through

Inside fish wire at fuse block - use to pull feed wire through to Trailer Converter Box . 12v Feed
I also used 1/4" convoluted tubing over the feed wire to protect and sealed it at the grommet behind right tail light with silicone sealer.
Great idea, I used #26 with a spade to the in-line fuse.

Instead of cutting a hole in the grommet, I just released the grommet from the body, unwrapped the existing tape on both sides, and fed the new power wire through the tube, then re-wrapped the tape. The wire is really easy to get to the fuse box with the grommet removed!
Then just re-plugged the grommet into its hole in the body.
 

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Here's a few pics from my hitch install thread. The Photobucket pics in that thread are now gone. http://www.fordescape.org/forum/825073-post1.html
I used the Tekonsha (Tow Ready) 118566 T-Connector Assembly. https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-118566-Connector-Assembly-Protected/dp/B00ASY23M6

Like others here I had a hard time getting the tail lights off. I had to resort to using my Lisle fastener remover. With only a light push on the fastener remover the lights came off; no damage to the lights, panels, or alignment tabs. I put a light film of silicone grease on the alignment tabs and the plastic guide.

Automotive exterior Tire Bumper Automotive wheel system Wheel


I didn’t want to take the chance of snapping the plastic rivets, so after removing the 2-8mm bolts, I popped the bottom inside corner out on the panels, gently pulled the bottom of the panels out enough to pull the connectors up through the hole with a wire. There’s enough room and if necessary you can reach your hand under the bumper and push them through the hole. Route the wires up along the sides of the panels to the tail lights, push on the bottom of the panel. It will snap back into place.
Tire Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Wheel


The driver’s side cable could have been an inch or two longer. The installation video is a bit vague on where to mount the converter box. Where I mounted mine leaves only a small amount of slack in the cable. I don’t have a small drill so I used my Dremel and a 3/32" drill bit to drill a starter hole for the ground screw.
Bottom of pic is the back of car.
Electrical wiring Wire Electrical supply Cable Auto part


I punched a hole in the rubber wire grommet on the right tail light and ran the power wire to the rear fuse box; pushed the wire through until it was visible at the fuse box.
I used the fuse holder from the Assembly. Crimped the butt connector to one side and an insulated female 12-10 AWG terminal to the other. You can also do what Norman did and use an Add-a-Fuse and connect it to the #2 fuse slot on the bottom left.
Wire Electrical wiring Vehicle Vehicle door Auto part


Yellow Wire Cable Electrical supply Technology


Technology Electronic device Bumper Electronics Vehicle
 

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that's where I hooked the trailer light hot wire up to our 2016 last week , instead of running a wire all the way up to the battery .
Which fuse did you tap on your 2016?
 

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Here's a few pics from my hitch install thread.
Thanks for the pictures. Made my install really easy. The only thing I did different was to extend the negative wire a bit, change the loop to a slightly bigger size and attach it to the muffler hanger bolt. I couldn't bring myself to expose raw steel on the underside of the vehicle.
 

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Great idea, I used #26 with a spade to the in-line fuse.

Instead of cutting a hole in the grommet, I just released the grommet from the body, unwrapped the existing tape on both sides, and fed the new power wire through the tube, then re-wrapped the tape. The wire is really easy to get to the fuse box with the grommet removed!
Then just re-plugged the grommet into its hole in the body.
Great idea, I used #26 with a spade to the in-line fuse.

Instead of cutting a hole in the grommet, I just released the grommet from the body, unwrapped the existing tape on both sides, and fed the new power wire through the tube, then re-wrapped the tape. The wire is really easy to get to the fuse box with the grommet removed!
Then just re-plugged the grommet into its hole in the body.
2017 2.0 SE(bought used) - My trailer lights power wire is also connected to F26 with a spade to the inline fuse instead of running a power wire to the battery.
 
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