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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 2013 Ford escape se 2.0 awd with transmission issues, I already drained and filled the trans twice, my problem is that when i put it in drive it doesn't engage then it does, when leave the driveway it will go alittle then slip then engage again, it seems like it doesn't shift to 2nd or 3rd, I can go 60 mph with no shifting, bushing has been replaced, any thoughts, it a very nice car and only paid $800 for it.
 

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The issue is likely solved if you only paid $800 for it. The transmission is probably shot and the previous owner or dealer wanted to unload it rather than pay $3k to $4k or whatever for a new transmission.
However if the rest of the car is ok you would still be way ahead spending the money on a new trannie if needed due to your initial outlay.
I would advise getting it checked over to make sure there are no other issues first. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The issue is likely solved if you only paid $800 for it. The transmission is probably shot and the previous owner or dealer wanted to unload it rather than pay $3k to $4k or whatever for a new transmission.
However if the rest of the car is ok you would still be way ahead spending the money on a new trannie if needed due to your initial outlay.
I would advise getting it checked over to make sure there are no other issues first. ;)
I was hoping that maybe it needed an software update or something electrical, i have no codes
 

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I was hoping that maybe it needed an software update or something electrical, i have no codes
Based on your description of the problem I doubt it is a software or electrical problem and is likely more serious involving the torque converter or whatever.
You say it is a very nice car and regardless of what you spend having the transmission and any other issues properly diagnosed and any subsequent repairs you will still finish up with a very cheap Escape for your original purchase price of $800.
I would have expected all sorts of issues for that price. ;)
 
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Was the fluid level checked when hot with the engine running?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Based on your description of the problem I doubt it is a software or electrical problem and is likely more serious involving the torque converter or whatever.
You say it is a very nice car and regardless of what you spend having the transmission and any other issues properly diagnosed and any subsequent repairs you will still finish up with a very cheap Escape for your original purchase price of $800.
I would have expected all sorts of issues for that price. ;)
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire
 

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Certainly is for $800.
Did the previous owner have a 'senior moment' when he sold it to you or was that a typo and meant to be $8,000?
Even at that price it would be a bargain. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Certainly is for $800.
Did the previous owner have a 'senior moment' when he sold it to you or was that a typo and meant to be $8,000?
Even at that price it would be a bargain. :)
no senior moment lol, the junk yard was offering her the $800 so i said I want it, she's my co-workers daughter so I've known her for 8 years now.
 

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I have an 2013 Ford escape se 2.0 awd with transmission issues, I already drained and filled the trans twice, my problem is that when i put it in drive it doesn't engage then it does, when leave the driveway it will go alittle then slip then engage again, it seems like it doesn't shift to 2nd or 3rd, I can go 60 mph with no shifting, bushing has been replaced, any thoughts, it a very nice car and only paid $800 for it.
Check your shifter bushing. There was a recall for that!! It's located right on top of the transmissin under the air cleaner hose.
 

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That is why it cost only $800 sadly. :cry:
You may need to part it out...you would certainly make money.
 

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Battery and/or alternator, maybe? That looks like a lot of communication issues between modules and sensors.
 

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You got a bad transmission and sick communications. Might be a dead battery or a bunch of stuff left unplugged when they worked on the transmission. Good battery would be a start. There are known issues with wiring harnesses and shorting out the communications.
 

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A corroded BMS sensor on the negative battery terminal will send the communication bus haywire. So will battery voltage issues. I doubt you'd have that many legitimate faults. Also, reset them and see what reappears.
 

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I LOVE my 2013 Escape. No issues at 77,000 miles. Keep it and make it like new because new cars are insanely expensive! That's what I'm doing. I know the car, love everything about it so why would I put myself in debt again?
Hopefully the OP can do that but there seems to be a lot of things going on which need further investigation. As mentioned a lot of it appears to be connected with the battery and BCM/BMS according to fault codes and no doubt this is where checks should begin.
 
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