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Hi all, 2014 Escape SE 101k

I am new to the forum. Just picked up a 2014 Escape with 100k. Car is in excellent condition but, I noticed when I accelerate easy from second to third, it shifts hard. I can see the shift point from second to 3rd is at a little over 3,000 RPMs, whereas first gear shifts at 2,000 RPMs. If I accelerate fast it goes through all gears nice and smooth.
No codes are present.

Here is what I did so far:
I purchased 5 Qt. Mercon LV fluid. I drove the car for several miles to warm up the tranny. As I drained the fluid, I disconnected the battery to perform the PCM reset. I looked at the tranny fluid and it wasn't that dark as I expected it to be however, I noticed a couple of flakes and what looks to be little sandish like debris.

Let me take a step back for a second. I put in a quart of tranny fluid a week ago in hopes that might fix the shifting from second to third. It did not. Maybe that's why the oil didn't look so dark.
Given that I added a quart, I measured the amount that came out of the tranny, which was 5 quarts. I decided to add four quarts, since I added in a quart a week before. I buttoned everything up and continued to follow what was left of the PCM reset instructions. I drove the car around town nice and easy,drove up to 60 MPH as well, just to make sure the car went through all the gears and the tranny reached operating temp. It seems to shift a lot better but, there is still a slight jerk from second to third. Not as aggressive as before.

Should I take it to the shop? Should the tranny be replaced? I still have warranty on the vehicle. 2yr/24,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty. Or, should I wait toward the end of the warranty to take it in. Or, will the tranny be ok for the next 5 years?
Thanks in advance.
 

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Well thats a tough one, since you say your still covered..The trans fluid change you said helped, I say do another one , but you have to make sure your at the correct level..The correct procedure is on here under transmission fluid change somewhere,, car should be at operating temp. and level ..I actually drain it when cold overnight, with vehicle on ground, find it drains more out that way, and then measure what came out...If the second drain shows no improvement , then take it in...
 

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It depends on your definition of hard; I might be inclined to say it's normal for the 6F35. But if you're under warranty, it wouldn't hurt to take it in for a professional look to ease your mind. My old Fusion had the same shift characteristics (they both share the same tranny) between 2nd and 3rd. I would have probably described it more as "firm" rather than "hard". No codes were ever present. It did it from day one to the day I traded it for my Escape. I did change the fluid at around 40,000 miles, but that was it.
 

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Hi all, 2014 Escape SE 101k

I am new to the forum. Just picked up a 2014 Escape with 100k. Car is in excellent condition but, I noticed when I accelerate easy from second to third, it shifts hard. I can see the shift point from second to 3rd is at a little over 3,000 RPMs, whereas first gear shifts at 2,000 RPMs. If I accelerate fast it goes through all gears nice and smooth.
No codes are present.

Here is what I did so far:
I purchased 5 Qt. Mercon LV fluid. I drove the car for several miles to warm up the tranny. As I drained the fluid, I disconnected the battery to perform the PCM reset. I looked at the tranny fluid and it wasn't that dark as I expected it to be however, I noticed a couple of flakes and what looks to be little sandish like debris.

Let me take a step back for a second. I put in a quart of tranny fluid a week ago in hopes that might fix the shifting from second to third. It did not. Maybe that's why the oil didn't look so dark.
Given that I added a quart, I measured the amount that came out of the tranny, which was 5 quarts. I decided to add four quarts, since I added in a quart a week before. I buttoned everything up and continued to follow what was left of the PCM reset instructions. I drove the car around town nice and easy,drove up to 60 MPH as well, just to make sure the car went through all the gears and the tranny reached operating temp. It seems to shift a lot better but, there is still a slight jerk from second to third. Not as aggressive as before.

Should I take it to the shop? Should the tranny be replaced? I still have warranty on the vehicle. 2yr/24,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty. Or, should I wait toward the end of the warranty to take it in. Or, will the tranny be ok for the next 5 years?
Thanks in advance.
I merged your thread with this existing thread on the same topic. Have a look at some of the other posts to get some help. You could also search the forum as there are other threads that discuss this.
 

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Well thats a tough one, since you say your still covered..The trans fluid change you said helped, I say do another one , but you have to make sure your at the correct level..The correct procedure is on here under transmission fluid change somewhere,, car should be at operating temp. and level ..I actually drain it when cold overnight, with vehicle on ground, find it drains more out that way, and then measure what came out...If the second drain shows no improvement , then take it in...
I forgot to mention the level plug on the side of the transmission. The car was on the drive way (not raised). After driving it for about 10 miles to get the tranny at operating temp, I pulled the level plug and allowed the fluid to level out. I'm planning to do another flush in a couple of days. Is there a scan tool that I can buy that will clear the PCM and TCM? I'm not sure how much the dealer would charge to reset the PCM and TCM and I feel uncomfortable unplugging the battery every time I was to reset it. I'm hoping there is an affordable scan tool that will allow me to reset the PCM and TCM.
 

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I forgot to mention the level plug on the side of the transmission. The car was on the drive way (not raised). After driving it for about 10 miles to get the tranny at operating temp, I pulled the level plug and allowed the fluid to level out. I'm planning to do another flush in a couple of days. Is there a scan tool that I can buy that will clear the PCM and TCM? I'm not sure how much the dealer would charge to reset the PCM and TCM and I feel uncomfortable unplugging the battery every time I was to reset it. I'm hoping there is an affordable scan tool that will allow me to reset the PCM and TCM.
Don't know about a scan tool to reset the PCM....The transmission in time and or miles should re-learn your shifting habbits I believe...Do your drain again, and give it a couple weeks and see what happens...
 

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It depends on your definition of hard; I might be inclined to say it's normal for the 6F35. But if you're under warranty, it wouldn't hurt to take it in for a professional look to ease your mind. My old Fusion had the same shift characteristics (they both share the same tranny) between 2nd and 3rd. I would have probably described it more as "firm" rather than "hard". No codes were ever present. It did it from day one to the day I traded it for my Escape. I did change the fluid at around 40,000 miles, but that was it.
I can feel the jerk when it shifts into third gear. When it shifts from first to second, it shifts at around 2,000 RPM. When it shifts from second to third, the acceleration goes up to around 3,000RPMs, sits there for about a second, then shifts into third. I can feel the shift, unlike the other gears. Sometimes I can feel the downshifts but, they aren't as apparent as the shift from second to third. The downshifts are very light just like the upshifts. If I drive hard, if shifts nicely in all gears. My concern is, at some point the car won't shift into third.
 

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I've been doing some further researching and the possible solution might be to replace a shift solenoid, which unfortunately involves removing the transmission pan. The solenoid might not be allowing the proper amount of oil to the gear in question. There isn't a code but, maybe the solenoid isn't functioning the way it should. I'm not sure if there a solenoid for each gear but, I'm thinking of replacing them, especially that the car has 101k on the clock.
 

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I've been doing some further researching and the possible solution might be to replace a shift solenoid, which unfortunately involves removing the transmission pan. The solenoid might not be allowing the proper amount of oil to the gear in question. There isn't a code but, maybe the solenoid isn't functioning the way it should. I'm not sure if there a solenoid for each gear but, I'm thinking of replacing them, especially that the car has 101k on the clock.
There is no transmission pan on the 6F35 ..You would have remove the transmission to get to the solenoids...If your covered by warranty, just do another drain and fill and take it from there..
 

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mmm..i beg to differ. At the 1:45 mark he start to work on it and remove it to access the Valve body and solenoids. By the looks of it, it's wedged up there between the radiator and transmission. While difficult to access in the vehicle, I do not think the entire trans has be dropped.

Our 2006 was a similar design with the CD4E. I don't have direct experience on the 6F35 but that pan is pretty low profile compared to the CD4E

 

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I've been doing some further researching and the possible solution might be to replace a shift solenoid, which unfortunately involves removing the transmission pan. The solenoid might not be allowing the proper amount of oil to the gear in question. There isn't a code but, maybe the solenoid isn't functioning the way it should. I'm not sure if there a solenoid for each gear but, I'm thinking of replacing them, especially that the car has 101k on the clock.
When I did raise the concern with the service manager, he did suggest there might be a solenoid issue. FWIW, when he rode with me, he did confirm the firmer shift, but also mentioned mine was one of the better ones he had experienced. (That was when the 6F35 was still brand-new...an oversight on my part when I bought the car, as I try to avoid year-one models.) I still think it's programmed to shift that way, as my current Escape has a firmer 2>3 shift than the other gears, albeit it's softer than what I recall my Fusion being (revised programming). It shifted like butter everytime the battery was disconnected/the KAM reset, only to return after it "learned" my driving pattern. YMMV, as everyone's tolerances are different.
 

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mmm..i beg to differ. At the 1:45 mark he start to work on it and remove it to access the Valve body and solenoids. By the looks of it, it's wedged up there between the radiator and transmission. While difficult to access in the vehicle, I do not think the entire trans has be dropped.

Our 2006 was a similar design with the CD4E. I don't have direct experience on the 6F35 but that pan is pretty low profile compared to the CD4E

Interesting. Not sure if that's a job I can do on the driveway but, I can flush again and see what happens. I honestly would prefer to swap out the solenoids if possible.Then do a flush and go from there. I can't find any DIY on replacing the shift solenoids on the 6F.
 

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mmm..i beg to differ. At the 1:45 mark he start to work on it and remove it to access the Valve body and solenoids. By the looks of it, it's wedged up there between the radiator and transmission. While difficult to access in the vehicle, I do not think the entire trans has be dropped.

Our 2006 was a similar design with the CD4E. I don't have direct experience on the 6F35 but that pan is pretty low profile compared to the CD4E

Well if you can do that at home, more power to ya...
 

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Hi all, 2014 Escape SE 101k

I am new to the forum. Just picked up a 2014 Escape with 100k. Car is in excellent condition but, I noticed when I accelerate easy from second to third, it shifts hard. I can see the shift point from second to 3rd is at a little over 3,000 RPMs, whereas first gear shifts at 2,000 RPMs. If I accelerate fast it goes through all gears nice and smooth.
No codes are present.

Here is what I did so far:
I purchased 5 Qt. Mercon LV fluid. I drove the car for several miles to warm up the tranny. As I drained the fluid, I disconnected the battery to perform the PCM reset. I looked at the tranny fluid and it wasn't that dark as I expected it to be however, I noticed a couple of flakes and what looks to be little sandish like debris.

Let me take a step back for a second. I put in a quart of tranny fluid a week ago in hopes that might fix the shifting from second to third. It did not. Maybe that's why the oil didn't look so dark.
Given that I added a quart, I measured the amount that came out of the tranny, which was 5 quarts. I decided to add four quarts, since I added in a quart a week before. I buttoned everything up and continued to follow what was left of the PCM reset instructions. I drove the car around town nice and easy,drove up to 60 MPH as well, just to make sure the car went through all the gears and the tranny reached operating temp. It seems to shift a lot better but, there is still a slight jerk from second to third. Not as aggressive as before.

Should I take it to the shop? Should the tranny be replaced? I still have warranty on the vehicle. 2yr/24,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty. Or, should I wait toward the end of the warranty to take it in. Or, will the tranny be ok for the next 5 years?
Thanks in advance.
Sounds very much like my problem, which ended up being a dirty/defective shift solenoid. The TSB has an odd description but described my problem exactly, and as it was under the powertrain warranty it was fixed. It would likely not be a huge expense, as the solenoids sit under the pan at the front of the transmission. I also had a very hard downshift into third, as when entering the highway or passing. This repair corrected everything, now I do the drain/flush to help prevent recurrence.

Here's the text:
102300 POWER TRAIN:MANUAL TRANSMISSION:SHIFT PATTERN INDICATOR


TSB #SSM 46355
— Posted 2017-03-17
102300 POWER TRAIN:MANUAL TRANSMISSION:SHIFT PATTERN INDICATOR bulletin for the 2015 ESCAPE

MULTIPLE 2014-2016 VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 6F35 TRANSMISSION AND BUILT ON 1-JAN-2014 AND THROUGH 31-DEC-2015 MAY EXHIBIT HARSH REVERSE ENGAGEMENT AND HARSH/DELAYED 3RD AND 5TH GEAR UP/DOWN SHIFTS WITH NO DTCS PRESENT. THIS MAY BE DUE TO A ME

NHTSA has assigned ID #10095624 to this bulletin. You can get more detailed information on how to fix the problem.

  • Edge Platinum Member

  • 8,861 posts
  • Region:U.S. Northeast
  • Location:Maryland
  • Edge's Year:Decline
Posted 13 June 2017 - 05:41 PM
February 2, 2017 MANUFACTURER COMMUNICATION NUMBER: SSM 46355

Summary

MULTIPLE 2014-2016 VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 6F35 TRANSMISSION AND BUILT ON 1-JAN-2014 AND THROUGH 31-DEC-2015 MAY EXHIBIT HARSH REVERSE ENGAGEMENT AND HARSH/DELAYED 3RD AND 5TH GEAR UP/DOWN SHIFTS WITH NO DTCS PRESENT. THIS MAY BE DUE TO A MECHANICALLY BINDING SHIFT SOLENOID B (SSB). VERIFY HARSH REVERSE AND 3RD AND 5TH GEAR SHIFT EVENTS ARE PRESENT. USING IDS, IDENTIFY THE BAND NUMBER OF SSB FOR USE WHEN ORDERING PARTS. REMOVE THE MAIN CONTROL. DISASSEMBLE AND THOROUGHLY CLEAN THE VALVE BODY AND SOLENOID BODY TO REMOVE ANY CONTAMINANTS. REPLACE SSB, REFER TO WORKSHOP MANUAL (WSM) SECTION 307-01. USING IDS, CLEAR TRANSMISSION ADAPTIVE TABLES. FOR CLAIMING, USE CAUSAL PART 7G383 AND APPLICABLE LABOR OPERATIONS IN SECTION 7 OF THE SERVICE LABOR TIME STANDARDS (SLTS) MANUAL.

MAKE MODEL YEAR

FORD C-MAX 2015-2016
FORD EDGE 2014-2016
FORD ESCAPE 2014-2016
FORD EXPLORER 2014-2016
FORD FIESTA 2014-2015
FORD FOCUS 2014-2016
FORD FUSION 2014-2016
FORD TAURUS 2014-2016
FORD TRANSIT CONNECT 2014-2016
LINCOLN MKC 2015-2016
LINCOLN MKT 2014-2016
LINCOLN MKX 2014-2016
LINCOLN MKZ 2014-2016
 

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Sounds very much like my problem, which ended up being a dirty/defective shift solenoid. The TSB has an odd description but described my problem exactly, and as it was under the powertrain warranty it was fixed. It would likely not be a huge expense, as the solenoids sit under the pan at the front of the transmission. I also had a very hard downshift into third, as when entering the highway or passing. This repair corrected everything, now I do the drain/flush to help prevent recurrence.

Here's the text:
102300 POWER TRAIN:MANUAL TRANSMISSION:SHIFT PATTERN INDICATOR


TSB #SSM 46355
— Posted 2017-03-17
102300 POWER TRAIN:MANUAL TRANSMISSION:SHIFT PATTERN INDICATOR bulletin for the 2015 ESCAPE

MULTIPLE 2014-2016 VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 6F35 TRANSMISSION AND BUILT ON 1-JAN-2014 AND THROUGH 31-DEC-2015 MAY EXHIBIT HARSH REVERSE ENGAGEMENT AND HARSH/DELAYED 3RD AND 5TH GEAR UP/DOWN SHIFTS WITH NO DTCS PRESENT. THIS MAY BE DUE TO A ME

NHTSA has assigned ID #10095624 to this bulletin. You can get more detailed information on how to fix the problem.

  • Edge Platinum Member

  • 8,861 posts
  • Region:U.S. Northeast
  • Location:Maryland
  • Edge's Year:Decline
Posted 13 June 2017 - 05:41 PM
February 2, 2017 MANUFACTURER COMMUNICATION NUMBER: SSM 46355

Summary

MULTIPLE 2014-2016 VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 6F35 TRANSMISSION AND BUILT ON 1-JAN-2014 AND THROUGH 31-DEC-2015 MAY EXHIBIT HARSH REVERSE ENGAGEMENT AND HARSH/DELAYED 3RD AND 5TH GEAR UP/DOWN SHIFTS WITH NO DTCS PRESENT. THIS MAY BE DUE TO A MECHANICALLY BINDING SHIFT SOLENOID B (SSB). VERIFY HARSH REVERSE AND 3RD AND 5TH GEAR SHIFT EVENTS ARE PRESENT. USING IDS, IDENTIFY THE BAND NUMBER OF SSB FOR USE WHEN ORDERING PARTS. REMOVE THE MAIN CONTROL. DISASSEMBLE AND THOROUGHLY CLEAN THE VALVE BODY AND SOLENOID BODY TO REMOVE ANY CONTAMINANTS. REPLACE SSB, REFER TO WORKSHOP MANUAL (WSM) SECTION 307-01. USING IDS, CLEAR TRANSMISSION ADAPTIVE TABLES. FOR CLAIMING, USE CAUSAL PART 7G383 AND APPLICABLE LABOR OPERATIONS IN SECTION 7 OF THE SERVICE LABOR TIME STANDARDS (SLTS) MANUAL.

MAKE MODEL YEAR

FORD C-MAX 2015-2016
FORD EDGE 2014-2016
FORD ESCAPE 2014-2016
FORD EXPLORER 2014-2016
FORD FIESTA 2014-2015
FORD FOCUS 2014-2016
FORD FUSION 2014-2016
FORD TAURUS 2014-2016
FORD TRANSIT CONNECT 2014-2016
LINCOLN MKC 2015-2016
LINCOLN MKT 2014-2016
LINCOLN MKX 2014-2016
LINCOLN MKZ 2014-2016
I had a feeling the solenoid would be the culprit. I would like to replace the solenoid myself but, I can't find any DIY on solenoid replacement while the transmission is on the vehicle.
I know if I send it to the dealership, it will sit there for some time but, if I do it myself, on my driveway, I'd be done in a day or two and perform the second flush as I'm in there replacing the solenoid.
 

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I had a feeling the solenoid would be the culprit. I would like to replace the solenoid myself but, I can't find any DIY on solenoid replacement while the transmission is on the vehicle.
I know if I send it to the dealership, it will sit there for some time but, if I do it myself, on my driveway, I'd be done in a day or two and perform the second flush as I'm in there replacing the solenoid.
You may want to invest in the Ford Service Manual then and go head first into it. That's what I would do, but then I've always been a hands-on learner.

The main thing before you get into it is to make absolutely certain you will have the clearance to physically remove the pan once the bolts are removed. That to me would be the hardest part given by how crammed the engine bay seems for such a tiny motor/transmission combo. Get under there (if you're going to attempt it) and see what's in the way and around the pan that you'll need to remove or possible remove, or navigate around. Nothing is worse than getting into something and getting half way done or nearly done and finding out there's a whole 'nother part that has it's own hassle of being removed. I made a little of a mistake on our CD4E because the pan was so deep, I didn't think about the valve body and solenoid pack extending partially under that cover. That required an extra couple of inches of clearance I almost didn't have. The 6F35 looks pretty flush in that respect.

To remove the pan will probably involve removing the splash panel under the car, any trum under the radiator support, the drivers tire and wheel well panel, removing the air cleaner box, and removing one or both transmission cooler lines to radiator/transmission cooler. That's just off the top of my head given the orientation of the transmission and pan on the 6F35.
 

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I bought a used 2016 ford escape 1.6L and it is shifting very slow like the first post in this thread mentions. Big lag in between a couple of the shift points. Sometimes it is really bad, other times just that annoying lag the post mentions. The dealer said the problem appears to be the fuel pressure sensor. The car only has 41K miles and is well within the 5 year/60K powertrain warranty but they said it will not cover it. Cant believe this isn't powertrain related. Does this sound like it could be the answer to the problem? Seems odd that would be the cause but they said they got a code back for part 9f972. Looks like a cheap one to replace and I can probably do it myself if I can find it in the engine bay. I can get the part for $50, they wanted $300 to $500+ for the part and labor. Thoughts?
Well now we bring up something else I think I’ve figured mine is doing that might or might not somewhat have to do with the shifting. It has done this before and I thought it was the transmission at first but after talking to a few techs (I work at a Mercedes dealership) I think we agree it actually has to do with the fuel system. So when I got the car back at 51,000 two years ago after fueling it would shutter. Of course purge valve related. I told ford to replace it with no diagnostic. It cleared up and I haven’t thought about it. So the last couple of months it’s been a b*tch about the capless system stopping me from fueling. I’m used to the occasional pump having this issue and I have a mental note of the pumps that normally cause it. But the ones that I go to all the time have started to tigger it. Then it started doing the shutters after fill up again. And now it likes to fall on its face if I somewhat aggressively accelerate after fill up as in getting on the highway after. You can feel it hesitate and watch the RPMs not be able to build. I basically just keep an even acceleration when it does it until it catches up with itself.
So I thought maybe, since the purge valve is only 30,000 miles in (I drive a lot) and a year and a bit old I was thinking it was the fuel filter. The techs in the Mercedes shop argue that would trigger a code with a direct fuel system. So they are thinking the shut off is staying open not allow the fuel system to build pressure. The other thing that was replaced was the fuel tank sensor after trigging a check engine light saying the sensor went bad.
 

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You may want to invest in the Ford Service Manual then and go head first into it. That's what I would do, but then I've always been a hands-on learner.

The main thing before you get into it is to make absolutely certain you will have the clearance to physically remove the pan once the bolts are removed. That to me would be the hardest part given by how crammed the engine bay seems for such a tiny motor/transmission combo. Get under there (if you're going to attempt it) and see what's in the way and around the pan that you'll need to remove or possible remove, or navigate around. Nothing is worse than getting into something and getting half way done or nearly done and finding out there's a whole 'nother part that has it's own hassle of being removed. I made a little of a mistake on our CD4E because the pan was so deep, I didn't think about the valve body and solenoid pack extending partially under that cover. That required an extra couple of inches of clearance I almost didn't have. The 6F35 looks pretty flush in that respect.

To remove the pan will probably involve removing the splash panel under the car, any trum under the radiator support, the drivers tire and wheel well panel, removing the air cleaner box, and removing one or both transmission cooler lines to radiator/transmission cooler. That's just off the top of my head given the orientation of the transmission and pan on the 6F35.
It doesn't sound too difficult but, just a lot to do just to get the pan off, not to mention replacing the solenoids. I'm trying to find a picture of the transmission and its orientation in the engine bay to get a better perspective but, can't find it. I can take it to the Ford dealership 600ft. away from my house but, 1. Will they do the job even though there aren't any codes or do it because that's what I want done. 2. How long will they have the car. Since it's under warranty (not through Ford), I wonder if they would put effort toward the job, which is why I am leaning toward doing the job myself.
The last time I dealt with that dealership, my wife took her explorer sport there to change the brake pads but, they changed her rotors without her consent. I went there and told them to take off the rotors, put the original rotors back on, and do the job the right way. You can see my hesitation of going to the dealership.
 

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You bring up a good point. You are under a warranty from a third party. Taking it upon yourself to fix it may not be the best idea because you may void any remaining warranty on the transmission if you have new problems or the problem still exists since you are not an authorized tech. it's not like you're changing the spark plugs and the transmission fails. You are going to be working directly on the transmission and internal components.

This is how I would proceed. This is just my opinion, you can do whatever you want. I understand the hesitation of going to a dealer, they are hit-or-miss sometimes. Two in my area I flat out refuse to go to, the third one, even though they are great, I sometimes still have to make certain things are done the way I want them done or that they deliver as they say on their work.

Contact the warranty company and have them review the issue with you. Few reasons:
1) Since there is a perceived problem, they may not cover it anyway because it is not a diagnosed problem. Meaning, it ain't broke so they won't allow it to be fixed. Unless the dealer diagnoes it as a problem. In that case, you are free and clear and should just have it done at the dealer.

2) If it's not a diagnosed problem, By making the warranty company aware of a perceived issue, if it fails later while just outside of their warranty, you may have some leverage to get it fixed. They were made aware of a pending issue but chose to ignore it. It was documented so they rolled the dice and could potentially pay for that. That is not legal advice but just from experience. it really depends on the warranty company and the laws in your state.

3) Do you have rental coverage from your warranty company?

Back on topic, the orientation is pretty straight forward. The trans pan is facing the radiator on the drivers side. What you won't be able to see with just a picture is what all is in front of it, unless they are some really detailed pics and/or you have a service manual that gives you really good diagrams etc. Even then, you can't really know until you get your own eyeballs and hands on it.
 
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