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Problem SOLVED for me folks, they replaced the other cv shaft and that fixed it.


So in total, both cv shafts and the rear engine mount were replaced.
 

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Was this part of the powertrain warranty? My 2.0 FWD 2016 is doing the same intermittently and I had a rental Edge 2.0 FWD over the weekend and it did the same thing with 2600 miles. Was beginning to think it was just a Ford thing
 

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I wrote about the TSB17-2207 governing this issue in that thread, but adding here to show my experiences.

I have been having this vibration problem, noticeable right after the dealer rotates the tires, coming in at 60MPH and worse on sweeping right turns and when crown of road tilts downward to the left, felt worse in body, not steering wheel. (If it was a noise, I'd call it a wheel bearing, I think something more might be happening than wheel balance, but what do I know?).

They get perturbed that I might be blaming them (not), but they have balanced them numerous times and even used Hunter Road Force balancing. After the last time (I returned from a 1000-mile drive to my hometown with no issues, had the 10K service, bad vibration at speed returned), I got a bit more firm and wanted further review/analysis on what is causing this vibration.

The service manager went on a long road test with me in June 2019 (but as a passenger, not driving), and feels the problem, said that rotation wouldn't be the cause, and probably normal to the vehicle. To be fair (Letterkenny anyone?), the Asst SM said he also has an Escape, and it has the vibration, also, the loaner SE also had the same vibration.

They did another Hunter Road force again, and basically, the results are what are called luxury car levels, NPF (I did note that they did not road test the car more than 2 miles). Later, I called Hunter and got the regional rep. He knows and trusts my dealer (as I do), but suggested I get a second opinion at an independent shop that has a newer Hunter machine. Independent shop owner was very knowledgeable person, did another Road Force balance, and vibration remains.

I can almost accept that this is normal, but if a problem, probably other issues to review that no one is addressing (and, might not be able to until a larger fault shows up):
May be normal to base Escape, due to compliance designed in the bushing/struts - the SUV IS great on gravel roads, able to maintain a high speed compared to my Fiestas);
Maybe the transmission clutches are grabbing at that speed? I use cruise control a lot, and the vibration seems worse on decel down a hill;
What is different on 2017-2018 models from the models before? Did Ford began to put the Michelin Energy Saver a/s tire on 2017 models, not before? I personally think they might not be too great, hard and designed for gas mileage and nothing else;
The new design has "active grill shutters" - at what speed do they become active? Partly closed beginning at 55-60, fully closing at 70? If so, the partial closing is right when the vibration occurs, aero imbalance bouncing the SUV?
One Person said to raise tires pressures drastically to force roundness on tires; I reduced pressure to 32 on my calibrated gauge, and the vibration gets minimized (and, much more comfortable ride).

Personally, I can almost accept that it is endemic in the the design, and not a fatal (get rid of the SUV) flaw, and really think the tires are crap.
 

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I wrote about the TSB17-2207 governing this issue in that thread, but adding here to show my experiences.

I have been having this vibration problem, noticeable right after the dealer rotates the tires, coming in at 60MPH and worse on sweeping right turns and when crown of road tilts downward to the left, felt worse in body, not steering wheel. (If it was a noise, I'd call it a wheel bearing, I think something more might be happening than wheel balance, but what do I know?).

They get perturbed that I might be blaming them (not), but they have balanced them numerous times and even used Hunter Road Force balancing. After the last time (I returned from a 1000-mile drive to my hometown with no issues, had the 10K service, bad vibration at speed returned), I got a bit more firm and wanted further review/analysis on what is causing this vibration.

The service manager went on a long road test with me in June 2019 (but as a passenger, not driving), and feels the problem, said that rotation wouldn't be the cause, and probably normal to the vehicle. To be fair (Letterkenny anyone?), the Asst SM said he also has an Escape, and it has the vibration, also, the loaner SE also had the same vibration.

They did another Hunter Road force again, and basically, the results are what are called luxury car levels, NPF (I did note that they did not road test the car more than 2 miles). Later, I called Hunter and got the regional rep. He knows and trusts my dealer (as I do), but suggested I get a second opinion at an independent shop that has a newer Hunter machine. Independent shop owner was very knowledgeable person, did another Road Force balance, and vibration remains.

I can almost accept that this is normal, but if a problem, probably other issues to review that no one is addressing (and, might not be able to until a larger fault shows up):
May be normal to base Escape, due to compliance designed in the bushing/struts - the SUV IS great on gravel roads, able to maintain a high speed compared to my Fiestas);
Maybe the transmission clutches are grabbing at that speed? I use cruise control a lot, and the vibration seems worse on decel down a hill;
What is different on 2017-2018 models from the models before? Did Ford began to put the Michelin Energy Saver a/s tire on 2017 models, not before? I personally think they might not be too great, hard and designed for gas mileage and nothing else;
The new design has "active grill shutters" - at what speed do they become active? Partly closed beginning at 55-60, fully closing at 70? If so, the partial closing is right when the vibration occurs, aero imbalance bouncing the SUV?
One Person said to raise tires pressures drastically to force roundness on tires; I reduced pressure to 32 on my calibrated gauge, and the vibration gets minimized (and, much more comfortable ride).

Personally, I can almost accept that it is endemic in the the design, and not a fatal (get rid of the SUV) flaw, and really think the tires are crap.
I have a '17' that came with and still have the Michelin energy saver X tires...What I've has said and noticed with these, they do ride hard and are really noisy especially in hotter weather...But I have no vibration at any speeds. I was going to say you have a bad batch of tires out of round or some defect that balancing won't correct...I do keep the cold pressure at 36 psi...I have the 235/55/17 size.....Dont know about the active grill, but thinking in cold weather is when they really operate, partially close to help speed up engine warming,, always notice in summer they are wide open..so it's temperature dependent I believe, not speed...
 

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Thanks. As I understand it, Road Force balancing is supposed to identify out-of-roundness, but possibly not bad spots in the tire carcass itself. I tend to agree with you, and also have a Michelin case number. I saw Roush's video, where the guy seems to say they work by temperature and then speed, Ford's video indicates only at speed. Eh, maybe both. I'm thinking of pulling the fuse to test.
 
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Have the rims been checked for dents?
The inner, unsupported portion of the rim is easily dented in from a good pothole hit. It would only be obvious from spinning the wheel while looking at the backside.
 

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The independent shop did. Steel wheels however, alignment OK.
 
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I've been a Michelin fan for many years and the Michelin tires on this Escape are JUNK. I'm thinking Ford used them because they were cheap and specially made to compete for the Ford tire contract.They ride rough and very noisey. My problem is, we only drive about 10K miles a year so (at 73 y/o) I'm stuck with 'em for life. I'm thinking of "drifting" till the blow up.
 

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daveyj -- THANK you for posting your issue and all of the updates. I've got a 2014 Escape FWD 2.0L doing the same thing. It actually started somewhere around ~90k miles, and I'm up to ~120k miles now and it's almost unbearable.

I've mentioned this plenty of times at my local Ford dealership when bringing it in for regular maintenance, but have never gotten anything useful - no "oh yeah we've seen that before", just "oh that sounds like it could be transmission related ($$$) we'll have to look at that later".

Well, I'm finally heading in soon to have them take a closer look at this issue, and I feel like I'm actually armed with some places to start rather than having them search for the needle in the haystack.

I'm wondering -- how much did it cost roughly, parts and labor, to replace the cv shafts and the rear engine mount? Bonus points if you (or anyone) knows whether or not the mechanics there can look and see first whether or not those components actually are broken and need to be replaced before going in and doing all the work -- I'm not very auto-mechancially-inclined so I don't have much to go on for what's possible vs. what isn't here.

Thanks,
-M
 

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Finally got issue resolved with replacement of my right front axle. Escape runs smoothly now under power.
 

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escapefrombklyn - curious, was that the only part that was replaced, or did you go through a number of "trial and error" replacements before getting to the right front axle.
 

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My mechanic did have difficulties nailing down what the issue was. Left front axle was replaced first, with minimal results. Right front axle fixed it for sure.
 

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Hey all,

Around 100k miles was having some surging problems, which, as it got worse, started to include car randomly shuttering at highway speeds.

Check out this thread.
PROBLEMS SOLVED: CHANGED THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID.


Fluid change fixed the shuttering and uphill surging problems. Problems started around 99k miles, and I got it resolved at 108k miles. I noticed some posters on this thread said they were around 100k miles. Since the manual doesn't call for doing ATF change until 150k, most people probably won't try this as a fix, but its easy and cheap, so it couldn't hurt. And if you are doing certain activities like going on dirt roads or towing, I think the manual calls for ATF change every 30k miles, so some people may be way OVERDUE for the change and just not notice unless they checked the fine print in the owners manual.
 

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Agreed. Although only at 10k miles, of the wheels are true and balanced, I need to convince Ford to look into mechanical issues.
 

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2014 Ford Escape Titanium, 2.0L, Sync 2 MFT
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Hey all,

Around 100k miles was having some surging problems, which, as it got worse, started to include car randomly shuttering at highway speeds.

Check out this thread.
PROBLEMS SOLVED: CHANGED THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID.


Fluid change fixed the shuttering and uphill surging problems. Problems started around 99k miles, and I got it resolved at 108k miles. I noticed some posters on this thread said they were around 100k miles. Since the manual doesn't call for doing ATF change until 150k, most people probably won't try this as a fix, but its easy and cheap, so it couldn't hurt. And if you are doing certain activities like going on dirt roads or towing, I think the manual calls for ATF change every 30k miles, so some people may be way OVERDUE for the change and just not notice unless they checked the fine print in the owners manual.
This is not related to the vibration issue that this thread is discussing. I would think vibration and surging are two different things
 

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Update re: the Escape vibration at 55+ MPH. I spoke with Ford and the Service Manager at my dealer last week; what I was hoping to do was to isolate the possible cause, one wheel/tire at a time. I visited the SM, who, before I could suggest it, suggested the same path for process of elimination - they would get a new car, take off the wheels/tires, and replace one-by-one. In the end, either we would isolate which specific one, or the vibration remains and we should look into another mechanical problem.
I had an appt for 1030 today, for what I expected was going to happen. However, to save time, they just replaced all 4 wheels/tires form a new car and wanted me to road test with the asst service manager. The ASM also has a 2017 Escape S (but with 4 wheel drive and alloy wheels, mine are steel), and explained how his does the same thing, as do all their loaner Escapes (and I agree, the Escape loaners I have been given also have this 'imbalance' issue feel). The ASM also said he has spent thousands of dollars chasing his vibration down - replacing wheel, tires, struts, etc, with no improvement. SO, they were all preparing me to also have no improvement, and ending in a NPF or "normal".

They took my car into the shop, swapped the wheels/tires with a set from a new Escape with alloy wheels, then we took it out on Rt 28N from Chantilly, and he was aghast and astounded - no shake or vibration, butter smooth all the way; same tires as mine, also.

We got back to the shop, he said I'm happy we got it fixed, see you next time. With the new alloy wheels and tires on the car. I waited just a few moments, knowing that he can't just do that, but as I was heading for it he rushed out saying he has to put the new tires/wheels back on the new car. Of course I knew this, Hah!

To me, since same tires, problem is in the wheels - not mechanical, not aero, but somehow a bad batch of wheels or hubs, that Ford bought a couple of ten thousand in 2017. However, since, even though I have been complaining of this from day 1 (and truly, the ONLY complaint I have for this beast), they said that Ford does not regularly warrant wheels, as just one pot hole a mile from the dealership could have put a dent in it. And, I understand this. However, since they didn't take the time to isolate which particular wheel/tire the problem was, they put on 4 brand new tires and balanced at no charge!!!

I took it out for the TSB's 15-mile requirement, and yep, vibration back again. So, the wheels are bad (but, new wheels didn't fix the ASM's Escape). When I got back the Manager and Asst mgr were at lunch, so the service adviser kept the ticket open, was going to talk with them, and they will talk with their reps at Ford (who will call me back Tuesday) to see if they can arrange a half-price set of alloy wheels like I test drove. Not that I want alloy wheels, but the ones we took from a new car were great. Hmmm, also, it was from a 2019 (mine's a 2018). Maybe they fixed the hub issues by then.

But, eliminated mechanical issues and to me, eliminated tire issues, and proud to know a dealer who will go to such lengths for a minor problem.
 

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Hi all,

2014 SE 1.6t here with 110k. Recently my car has begun vibrating under power at highway speeds. As soon as I let of the accelerator the shaking stops. when it first started it felt similar to a wheel out of balance, but after rotation it continued, and now it has gotten progressively more violent. I have recently replaced the drivers side CV axle which did not solve it, passenger side CV axle seems fine. I took it to the shop for an oil change and to get the coolant level sensor installed and it seemed to be better for a week after being in the shop, but has since started occurring again. Also only seems to happen after driving for 10+ minutes. Has anyone else experienced this? Has anyone else experienced something similar? My next thought would be motor or trans mounts, as it sometimes feels rough when shifting between park, reverse, and gas. If not than I suspect an issue with the transaxle. Any help appreciated.
My 2014 (136000K) has the same vibe/shake issue. Intermittent and not too severe. I told the wife to ignore it until it got really bad and then the problem is sometimes easier to find. After reading these (and other) posts, it seems the transaxle was a popular suggested cause. After checking, I found the passenger side inner CV boot was trashed and obviously the joint as well. These forums are really helpful. In another example, a few days ago I was chasing a check engine light for an emissions code PO450 (fuel tank pressure sensor out of range) on the escape. I came across some discussion around problems with rust coatings gumming up the sensor vent holes. The person had actually posted a photo and because of that, I was able to locate it and spray it with brakekleen. Goo is gone and so is the check engine light. Thanks to all who contribute!
 

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Hi,

got a vibration problem with my 2014 Ford Escape AWD with 91,000km/56,000miles down.

The vibration is coming from the rear end.
It's only happening after starting to drive and goes away after 1-2 miles.
Now that's getting colder (up in here in Canada) the vibration is worse than in summer.
The vibration doesn't come back till the car is parked for longer time .e.g. overnight.
Tires are new and balanced but the vibration was there before old and after new tires.

The dealer is useless they said/done everything from dirty rims, unbalanced tires, damage rim -they just didn't listen to the fact it goes away after a few miles.

I'm not an expert but could it have something to do with the rear diff fluid?

Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be? - don't want to take it to another shop and listen to stupid comments.
 

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Hi,

got a vibration problem with my 2014 Ford Escape AWD with 91,000km/56,000miles down.

The vibration is coming from the rear end.
It's only happening after starting to drive and goes away after 1-2 miles.
Now that's getting colder (up in here in Canada) the vibration is worse than in summer.
The vibration doesn't come back till the car is parked for longer time .e.g. overnight.
Tires are new and balanced but the vibration was there before old and after new tires.

The dealer is useless they said/done everything from dirty rims, unbalanced tires, damage rim -they just didn't listen to the fact it goes away after a few miles.

I'm not an expert but could it have something to do with the rear diff fluid?

Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be? - don't want to take it to another shop and listen to stupid comments.
I merged your thread with this existing thread on the same topic. Have a look at the other posts for some help.

in my case, the rear vibration on my FE was related to the rear diff.I had a couple places that came to the same conclusion.They said it was cheaper to replace the diff rather than rebuild it.
 
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