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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

Does anyone know where the wastegate solenoid is on a 2014 Ford Escape SE 1.6L. Mine has been firing off code P0234 and when I got the code checked it stated the wastegate solenoid is bad. My dad doesn't know where its located or how to get to the part to change it. I called ford and got the part number and found it cheaper online on GETOMEparts.com but want to know how to change it.
 

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I believe it’s on the turbo. What are the symptoms, no power?
If so, prepare yourself that it’s the turbo itself. Dealer seems to first change solenoid, at like $350 , to determine if the turbo is shot. Then it’s $3k+
That was our experience.

Appears to go by the name :
Kit - Actuating Lever
Section: turbocharger


Tasca parts
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I believe it’s on the turbo. What are the symptoms, no power?
If so, prepare yourself that it’s the turbo itself. Dealer seems to first change solenoid, at like $350 , to determine if the turbo is shot. Then it’s $3k+
That was our experience.

Appears to go by the name :
Kit - Actuating Lever
Section: turbocharger


Tasca parts
It has power but seems to get stuck. RPMs go up to 4 and then back down like something is sticking open for a second. Still has power. So when I had the code read it stated wastegate solenoid. It isn't going through gas either. Which is odd! Do you know how to get to this part? I found this part a lot cheaper than the dealer and the Tasca part!
 

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Afaik it’s very near the turbo towards the ground.
You really should get yourself a workshop manual as it will give you some info about how the system works.

The fact that it goes to 4k rpms then back down - Well... maybe it’s giving too much boost, so the computer cuts the rpms as the wastegate isn’t working to lower the boost. Reducing rpms would be a fail safe mode essentially.
This your part?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Afaik it’s very near the turbo towards the ground.
You really should get yourself a workshop manual as it will give you some info about how the system works.

The fact that it goes to 4k rpms then back down - Well... maybe it’s giving too much boost, so the computer cuts the rpms as the wastegate isn’t working to lower the boost. Reducing rpms would be a fail safe mode essentially.
This your part?
Yes that is the part number that the Ford Dealership gave me for the failed code P0234 that came on. When we researched it, it stated it was giving too much boost and not getting rid of it like it should
 

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Sounds like the same issue I was having last winter. Did it recently drop temperature?

The solenoid is located near the passenger lower firewall. I found it easiest to drop the splash guard and remove the front passenger wheel.
 
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Sounds like the same issue I was having last winter. Did it recently drop temperature?

The solenoid is located near the passenger lower firewall. I found it easiest to drop the splash guard and remove the front passenger wheel.
The temp did just drop in Michigan but the temp in my car stayed the same doesn't overheat. But yes the temp dropped from 60s to 30s here in MI!! Was it the wastegate solenoid for you? Is it easy to fix and get at if you drop the splash guard and remove the front passenger wheel? Did you find the part cheaper online?
 

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The temp did just drop in Michigan but the temp in my car stayed the same doesn't overheat. But yes the temp dropped from 60s to 30s here in MI!! Was it the wastegate solenoid for you? Is it easy to fix and get at if you drop the splash guard and remove the front passenger wheel? Did you find the part cheaper online?
Yeah I meant the outside temp. Mine started having issues last year right after the outside temp dropped to sub 32. I had fluctuating RPMs which resulted in what I would call "jittery" acceleration.

As with all DIY solutions, it all depends on your skill level and comfort with the job/potential issues that may come up. That being said, it was fairly easy after taking those two parts off. I think my wife could have done it if I showed her where the old one was and had given her the right tools. Speaking of, I used a small pair of needle nose pliers and would not recommend at all. The hose clamps require you to push two tabs together and if I recall correctly, there is not a whole lot of room to manuever back there. I would highly recommend a pair of hose clamp pliers. If you don't have those and don't want to buy them, have a plethora of tools nearby that you can use to squeeze the tabs and just try different sets until you get one that works. It ended up taking me about 30 minutes and more frustration than it should have using the wrong tool.

I got part number CJ5Z-9K378-B for $55.54 shipped from Tasca. For the part and a pair of hose clamp pliers, you're looking at about $85. That comes in $15 less than Ford wanted to charge me to just diagnose the issue and a couple hundred less than what they want to charge you to replace it.

You can and definitely should "scout it out" first to see if it's something you want to/have the ability to do DIY.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Awesome! My dad is pretty good on cars. This is just something he’s never come across as a mechanic as he hasn’t ever worked on a car with turbo before! I def will show him all your comments. Did it fix your issues then? I so appreciate the help and if you think of anything else that might be helpful would love to hear anything to make it go smoothly. How long does this normally take if you have to correct tools?
 

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Awesome! My dad is pretty good on cars. This is just something he’s never come across as a mechanic as he hasn’t ever worked on a car with turbo before! I def will show him all your comments. Did it fix your issues then? I so appreciate the help and if you think of anything else that might be helpful would love to hear anything to make it go smoothly. How long does this normally take if you have to correct tools?
I've had no issues since then.

I couldn't tell you how long it normally takes as I've done it just the one time. Removing the splash guard and wheel takes me about 5 minutes since I've done it so many times. After that, it's three hose clamps and sliding the solenoid off a bracket. No bolts, no screws, no nuts. I would make a reasonable guess that with the right tools, it should be at most 10 minutes. Just a guess though since I did not have the right tools.
 

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Interesting about the below freezing issue. I wonder if moisture is getting in there. Be interesting to blow it out and put it back in. Course the freezing could’ve broken it.
Maybe the vac system needs a desiccant unit.

Sounds like the 1.6 escape solenoid is in between these two vids. Location more like the f150, part more like the 1.6 fusion. The Fusion solenoid is down by the turbo. F-150 near pass wheel firewall.


 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've had no issues since then.

I couldn't tell you how long it normally takes as I've done it just the one time. Removing the splash guard and wheel takes me about 5 minutes since I've done it so many times. After that, it's three hose clamps and sliding the solenoid off a bracket. No bolts, no screws, no nuts. I would make a reasonable guess that with the right tools, it should be at most 10 minutes. Just a guess though since I did not have the right tools.
Thanks so much!!!
 

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So we have two different locations mentioned for the 1.6l Boost solenoid.
The above description that @kevinzajac replaced his near the passenger side firewall, and this one:
Note: the information in this post applies to the 1.6L engine only.

I'm not sure what you're referring to on top of the engine? There is only one turbocharger wastegate regulating valve solenoid, and it's the one with the three hoses located right next to the turbo. The hose that goes to the back of the solenoid is the pressure source from the charge pipe, the hose that points off to the side goes to the wastegate, and the hose that goes straight off the end is the pressure dump hose that goes to the intake elbow right before the turbo. That is the entire boost control system. FYI the wastegate on the 1.6L is pressure actuated (no vacuum lines involved), which is different than the vacuum actuated wastegate on the 2.0L. Earlier in this thread they are talking about the 2.0L engine, so don't get confused.

A slight side topic here. Never heard of the site you mentioned. Not much info on them other than this site.

Personally, I would use either Rockauto or Tasca parts.
Pretty sure he just typo'd it.
It's www.getoemparts.com
 

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So we have two different locations mentioned for the 1.6l Boost solenoid.
The above description that @kevinzajac replaced his near the passenger side firewall, and this one:
I don't think that's two locations. I think that's two ways of describing the same location. The solenoid is right next to the turbo but I defaulted to a description of the location that would be the easiest for all levels of DIYers to understand since I do not know everyone's experience with their vehicle.
 

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the solenoid for the 2.0L engine is located on top of the engine itself. The 1.6L solenoid is located right next to the wastegate actuator it controls.
 

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Yeah I meant the outside temp. Mine started having issues last year right after the outside temp dropped to sub 32. I had fluctuating RPMs which resulted in what I would call "jittery" acceleration.

As with all DIY solutions, it all depends on your skill level and comfort with the job/potential issues that may come up. That being said, it was fairly easy after taking those two parts off. I think my wife could have done it if I showed her where the old one was and had given her the right tools. Speaking of, I used a small pair of needle nose pliers and would not recommend at all. The hose clamps require you to push two tabs together and if I recall correctly, there is not a whole lot of room to manuever back there. I would highly recommend a pair of hose clamp pliers. If you don't have those and don't want to buy them, have a plethora of tools nearby that you can use to squeeze the tabs and just try different sets until you get one that works. It ended up taking me about 30 minutes and more frustration than it should have using the wrong tool.

I got part number CJ5Z-9K378-B for $55.54 shipped from Tasca. For the part and a pair of hose clamp pliers, you're looking at about $85. That comes in $15 less than Ford wanted to charge me to just diagnose the issue and a couple hundred less than what they want to charge you to replace it.

You can and definitely should "scout it out" first to see if it's something you want to/have the ability to do DIY.
Local Ford garage charged me $150 to hook up to diagnostics. Determined the wastegate valve on my 2014 Escape SE 2.0L Eco-boost had failed. Want another $580 to special order the part and install! Highway robbery!
 

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Hi

Does anyone know where the wastegate solenoid is on a 2014 Ford Escape SE 1.6L. Mine has been firing off code P0234 and when Nox Vidmate VLC I got the code checked it stated the wastegate solenoid is bad. My dad doesn't know where its located or how to get to the part to change it. I called ford and got the part number and found it cheaper online on GETOMEparts.com but want to know how to change it.
I found it easiest to drop the splash guard and remove the front passenger wheel.
 

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So my 13 FE SE, 96k mileage just gave me a check engine light. No drivability issues, no loss of power. Hooked up a scan tool, got this p0234 code.

I ordered a replacement Wastegate Solenoid, installed it, still getting error code in the reader.

The check engine light is gone, but the reader still give same permanent code. Does this take a while to reset?

I have driven it about a 1/2 mile and tried the scan tool again, same permanent code.

I will drive it some more today, see if that helps. If it still does not clear the code, any next steps, or am I looking at going to a dealer?
 

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So my 13 FE SE, 96k mileage just gave me a check engine light. No drivability issues, no loss of power. Hooked up a scan tool, got this p0234 code.

I ordered a replacement Wastegate Solenoid, installed it, still getting error code in the reader.

The check engine light is gone, but the reader still give same permanent code. Does this take a while to reset?

I have driven it about a 1/2 mile and tried the scan tool again, same permanent code.

I will drive it some more today, see if that helps. If it still does not clear the code, any next steps, or am I looking at going to a dealer?
Clear codes with your scanner and it should be gone unless there is still a problem. Most codes will stay until they are clearedwith a scanner
 
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