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Weird noise then suddenly - ABD + TSC light on “4WD Temporarily Unavailable”

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I have a 2016 Ford Escape 2.0 SE AWD and I absolutely love it. But recently I’ve been having an issue.
I recently changed the battery in my Escape and everything seemed fine. But when I started my car and started driving, the car felt underpowered and I heard a slight grinding sound. Shortly after, I felt a pop from behind then the ABS and TCS lights lit up and my dash said “4WD Temporarily Unavailable” and “Hill Start Assist Unavailable”. It mainly just happens when I make tight turns, like leaving a parking space After a little bit, the dash says “4WD Restored”. The whole time the car continues to feel underpowered.
I’m using a spare one my rear passenger and don’t know if that’s confusing the computer..

How would I go about fixing this issue? I wanna avoid going to adealership and getting charged for a OBD reading..
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I have a 2016 Ford Escape 2.0 SE AWD and I absolutely love it. But recently I’ve been having an issue.

I recently changed the battery in my Escape and everything seemed fine.
You re-set the BMS (BATTERY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM)?

But when I started my car and started driving, the car felt underpowered and I heard a slight grinding sound. Shortly after, I felt a pop from behind then the ABS and TCS lights lit up and my dash said “4WD Temporarily Unavailable” and “Hill Start Assist Unavailable”. It mainly just happens when I make tight turns, like leaving a parking space After a little bit, the dash says “4WD Restored”. The whole time the car continues to feel underpowered.

I’m using a spare one my rear passenger and don’t know if that’s confusing the computer..

How would I go about fixing this issue? I wanna avoid going to a dealership and getting charged for a OBD reading..
If you are using a TEMPORARY SPARE, it can confuse the ABS which in turn controls the ATC (ACTIVE TORQUE COUPLING).

If after replacing with correct tire size it still happens, you need to look at the ATC of the REAR DRIVE UNIT.

You can usually have codes pulled at most parts box stores.
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You re-set the BMS (BATTERY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM)?



If you are using a TEMPORARY SPARE, it can confuse the ABS which in turn controls the ATC (ACTIVE TORQUE COUPLING).

If after replacing with correct tire size it still happens, you need to look at the ATC of the REAR DRIVE UNIT.

You can usually have codes pulled at most parts box stores.
I had a new tire put on and it stopped for a little while, but the 4WD started shutting off again when I left work later that day.. Thankfully the grinding and popping noises are at a minimum.
When I changed the battery, I did leave the car without power for about a day and a half. Would that reset the BMS??
As for looking for codes, I haven’t seen any codes for the lights unless I need a higher end scanner..
What’s a “ATC” and how would I find it??
When I changed the battery, I did leave the car without power for about a day and a half. Would that reset the BMS??
No...you have to reset it with Forscan or a dealer scan tool.
What’s a “ATC” and how would I find it??
See if this VIDEO helps explain the system -


If not, get back.
No...you have to reset it with Forscan or a dealer scan tool.
I figured out and did the reset manually. Doesn't seem like it did much tho..
See if this VIDEO helps explain the system -


If not, get back.
I really hope thats not the problem.. I've seen the price for the part going for well below $300. Except I know labor costs will end me.. For the TCS and ABS lights, I saw it could be the wheel speed sensors going bad. Thankfully those are fairly cheap and are much more DIY friendly.
I figured out and did the reset manually. Doesn't seem like it did much tho..
What method did you use to reset it?
Sadly though, in any case, I don't think the issues you are experiencing have anything to do with the BMS reset even though that is necessary after changing the battery.
It is just a coincidence that problems starting occurring at that time I think.
What method did you use to reset it?
Sadly though, in any case, I don't think the issues you are experiencing have anything to do with the BMS reset even though that is necessary after changing the battery.
It is just a coincidence that problems starting occurring at that time I think.
Press the brake and high beam to have to battery indicator blink
Sounds like wheel speed sensor. Feeling underpowered could be because vehicle thinks a wheel is slipping and lowers speed to restore traction.

I replaced both rears in my '14.
Sounds like wheel speed sensor. Feeling underpowered could be because vehicle thinks a wheel is slipping and lowers speed to restore traction.

I replaced both rears in my '14.
That's exactly whats been going on with me, with the engine suddenly cutting power before shutting the 4wd off.
I was suspecting that could be a problem..
What brand/model sensor do you recommend? And are there sensors in the front to change too??
I read the code thrown, and it even told which sensor was the issue both times.

I bought one from Rockauto and one from the dealership. There are several different ones.

Front and rear are different. Will also ask if you have park assist.
A manual impact driver may make removing the screw easier, if it is rusted tight.
Here's a discussion mentioning that you can turn off traction control when you start your vehicle until you get it addressed.

Here! And …help | OBX Connection Message Board
When a car displays a CEL, it is informing the driver that there is a malfunction in one of the vehicles electronic control/monitoring system(s). A DTC can be extracted informing you where in the system(s) that the fault is most likely located. It does not give the exact part(s) to replace to repair the problem.

That is determined after going through a full diagnostic sequence found in the manufacturer's WORKSHOP MANUAL or an outside service such as ALLDATA or MITCHELS.

Pointing a PARTS CANNON at a problem can get very expensive ($$$).
When a car displays a CEL, it is informing the driver that there is a malfunction in one of the vehicles electronic control/monitoring system(s). A DTC can be extracted informing you where in the system(s) that the fault is most likely located. It does not give the exact part(s) to replace to repair the problem.

That is determined after going through a full diagnostic sequence found in the manufacturer's WORKSHOP MANUAL or an outside service such as ALLDATA or MITCHELS.

Pointing a PARTS CANNON at a problem can get very expensive ($$$).
It turns out my wheel speed sensor on my rear right went bad, I replaced it and haven't had the problem since
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I read the code thrown, and it even told which sensor was the issue both times.

I bought one from Rockauto and one from the dealership. There are several different ones.

Front and rear are different. Will also ask if you have park assist.
Hey, I forgot the reply.. My rear passenger speed sensor went bad. I replaced both sides and the issue stopped.
Only thing is that now I have a code for my rear driver side tone wheel. I think the new sensor is dirty or the tone wheel is dirty or something. I'm planning on replacing the sensor and going from there
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