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Guys,

Anyone happens to know the wheel alignment specification for 2014 FE 1.6?

Thanks!

ghee
 

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I noticed this is your very first post - so, welcome aboard ghee! A member will jump in shortly with the specifications.
 
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Hi,

Thanks guy! Yeah that was my first post, should have start off with some light introduction. I actually come from Malaysia, here we have the the FE as European Kuga. Great car, great drive, unfortunately it only comes in 1.6 single specs/option.

Kuga is not a high volume car you see on the road in malaysia, most of people would go for Japanese. In fact, i think there is only like not more 800 on the car since it was introduced a year ago. It is sold at 160k or 50k USD due to high taxation.

The reason i am interested in its alignment specification is that, i seriously doubt if the alignment machine here or the hunter's database isn't being up to date. I have yet to check it out, so i thought of doing some asking first.

I am living in a 3rd world country, dealer doesn't even have a wheel alignment machine and it has to be done through some 3rd party tire specialist. Dealers don't really cares as long the sales keep cashing in.

Ghee.
 

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Wheel Alignment Specs Specified Range for 2013-2014 Ford Escape
Front:
Camber -1.4˚ 0.1˚, Caster 3.9˚ 5.4˚, Toe 0.00˚ 0.20˚
Cross Camber -0.8˚ 0.8˚, Cross Caster -0.8˚ 0.8˚, Total Toe 0.00˚ 0.40˚
Rear:
Camber -2.1˚ -0.6˚, Toe -0.01˚ 0.39
Cross Camber -0.8˚ 0.8˚, Total Toe 0.18˚ 0.58˚, Thrust Angle -0.50˚ 0.50˚
 

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that is a lot of possible toe in for the rear.

These Escape are based off the Focus. what this means is that the suspension will toe in under compression like when you hit a bump or carry some stuff in the back.

starting with high toe and then toeing in dynamically can produce some unwanted results. for instance hitting a pot hole with one tire may cause the rear end to want to dart to one side. some focus describe the car rear end as swaying or wandering in slippery conditions. Not what you want to feel in teh rain or snow.

that much toe is also very bad for tire wear, much worse than camber. your FE could be "on spec" but would shred tires.


My sugestion is to aim to the low side of the acceptable range.
 

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Hi,

Thanks guy! Yeah that was my first post, should have start off with some light introduction. I actually come from Malaysia, here we have the the FE as European Kuga. Great car, great drive, unfortunately it only comes in 1.6 single specs/option.

Kuga is not a high volume car you see on the road in malaysia, most of people would go for Japanese. In fact, i think there is only like not more 800 on the car since it was introduced a year ago. It is sold at 160k or 50k USD due to high taxation.

The reason i am interested in its alignment specification is that, i seriously doubt if the alignment machine here or the hunter's database isn't being up to date. I have yet to check it out, so i thought of doing some asking first.

I am living in a 3rd world country, dealer doesn't even have a wheel alignment machine and it has to be done through some 3rd party tire specialist. Dealers don't really cares as long the sales keep cashing in.

Ghee.
Would love to see a photo of your Kuga.
 

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2013 escape alignment

Just wondering how often I should have the alignment on my 2013 FWD checked? Also if the vehicle is prone to needing regular alignment check/adjusting to maintain good tire wear and tracking? :wheels:
 

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^ Do you have one of these?

Amazon.com: Interstate Pneumatics TG32 Professional Dial Type Tire Tread Depth Gauge Model: TG32 Misc.: Patio, Lawn & Garden

If not, get one. But don't pay that price. I got mine off of fleabay for much less. It is a real eye opener when you can actually check the depth of thread everywhere on your tire. It gives you the "real" story of whats going on with them, not just an eyeball guess and some hand rubbing.

If your tires are wearing evenly and you don't feel any pulling than you don't need an alignment.
 
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Guys,

Anyone happens to know the wheel alignment specification for 2014 FE 1.6?

Thanks!

ghee
My 2014 Escape rear camber was more than 2 degrees on both sides from the factory. I got tired of them telling me it was right and I got tired of replacing rear tires every 25ooo miles. I could stand behind the SUV and visually see the tires where angled. Spent a year reachering how to fix it despite Ford telling me it was correct. I notices newer Escapes the rear tires where square to the ground. Long story short get the adjustable upper control arms both sides. Look on line you can find them. Install them then reset the camber to - 0.5 or 0.0 degrees. My tires are now square to the ground and the tire ware is 100% better. If you are a do it your self kind of person you can get good a camber measuring tool for about $25 online and you will need a 60mm Torx bit - and aloooot of parients. The control arms will run you about $200 and the quality is also 90% better than the Ford contol arms.
PS I have owned several Ford vehicles over 35 year for some reasion wheel aligment on all my Fords was a problem.
 

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You can also get fixed 1.0 degree camber correction arms from Ford as a spare part.
 

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You can also get fixed 1.0 degree camber correction arms from Ford as a spare part.
Thank You Murcod. I did check on this and it would not fix the problem as my rear tires were over 2 degrees - infact on side was 2.6 the other was 2.3 and I was told for that year (2014) up to 2.8 was within the normal range. My investgation from many places came back with 0.5 to 0.0 is what the correct camber for this 2014 SUV should be. What is real funny is the front cambers are 0.0 both sides. Anyway a correction from Ford would have made the rears 1.6 and 1.3 which by many independents is still wrong. The shops that set the camber using aftermarket part found the 0.5 to 0.0 gave the best even tire ware. Like is said I could stand behind my SUV about 15ft and see both tires were cambered inword. So why would a Ford Tec not see this and also see the newer SUVs cambers were square to the ground and body? Besides the Ford 1.0 degree fix part is not as beafy (Strong) as the after market part as the the part is thin bent steel and the after market is solid steel.
 

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I've got a large amount of negative camber in the rear due to mine being lowered (it's over 2 degrees.) I've considered installing the adjustable arms and probably will do something about it before I get another wheel alignment. I'm a bit cautious about installing the adjustable arms as they may look stronger but who knows how good they're manufactured? I don't know why Ford have made their 1 degree part so flimsy looking.

When I first lowered it the aligner said he'd compensated for the camber with the toe settings. I don't do a lot of miles so uneven wear isn't noticeable yet.

PS: Some negative camber will improve grip around corners.
 

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I've got a large amount of negative camber in the rear due to mine being lowered (it's over 2 degrees.) I've considered installing the adjustable arms and probably will do something about it before I get another wheel alignment. I'm a bit cautious about installing the adjustable arms as they may look stronger but who knows how good they're manufactured? I don't know why Ford have made their 1 degree part so flimsy looking.

When I first lowered it the aligner said he'd compensated for the camber with the toe settings. I don't do a lot of miles so uneven wear isn't noticeable yet.

PS: Some negative camber will improve grip around corners.
OK you lowered the SUV all ready? If so you more than likely have changed the gemotry of the supetion all ready. How far out where you before you lowered? I was looking to get mine in stock configuration not race mode. Your right if your looking to go faster around corners to keep the camber out - need diffrent shocks - diffrent tires - and I'm sure diffrent lower control arms as well - I hope your looking for a stiff sway bar too. By the way my upper control arms came from Canada and were 3 time more heavy than the stock ones. In your case the week point will be the mounts and the mount bolts thats where the most stress will be when you go fast around the corner. Look for high stress bolts to replace the bolts on the control arms. Remember you will be increasing the weigh on these bolts beyond the stock limits. Have fun but keep it save I know I use to Drag race as a hobby and I broke many parts trying to go faster and faster.
 

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I didn't bother getting it aligned until after it was lowered. It's not ridiculously low, approximately 35mm lower. Not much when you're talking about an SUV that rides too high from the factory- posing like it's got some sort of off-road potential! :D

Yes, those other bits have been sorted. Apart the the lower control arms- they don't need changing.
 
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Sorry been busy but here is a picture of the stock upper control arms. You can see no adjustments - rolled steel welled not so great if you need a rear camber setting. I'll fallow up with a picture of the after market already installed.
 

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Now the after market upper control arms - solid steel - you can see buy the wheel hub the adjustment. Its a bit tight to fit a wrench on to make the adjustment but it works great just make sure you have a camber reading tool so as you make the adjustment you can see how much you are moving the wheel.
 

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Sorry been busy but here is a picture of the stock upper control arms. You can see no adjustments - rolled steel welled not so great if you need a rear camber setting. I'll fallow up with a picture of the after market already installed.
I think those rubber bushes have seen better days! :D


Now the after market upper control arms - solid steel - you can see buy the wheel hub the adjustment. Its a bit tight to fit a wrench on to make the adjustment but it works great just make sure you have a camber reading tool so as you make the adjustment you can see how much you are moving the wheel.
Yes, I've seen a few different designs around. The good thing with yours is it blends in and doesn't scream "AFTERMARKET PART". (My insurance company has recently taken a dislike to my suspension mods. :rolleyes: )
 
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