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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2014 Ford Escape SE 2.0 awd, 75k miles

When I turn my headlights on I get a "Low beam fault" and the gauges on dash all turn off and go dark all while the headlights flicker and tons of relays firing on/off like crazy. Then to cap it off the wiper blades turn on full blast. Light switch does nothing, all controls on column do not respond. I have to turn the car off to stop the wipers. And when it's all done, the driver's side low beam stays on permanently.

I can also trigger this same event by pulling the head lamp switch fuse, which I guess turns the lights on, or tries to.

I've replaced both bulbs and even swapped them from side to side. The only way I can avoid all this craziness is to leave the passenger low beam bulb unplugged, headlamp assembly still plugged in.

I can't find any relays related to the low beams so i guess it's all in the BCM?

Are there any hidden relays for the headlamps? There are none for the low beams in all 3 fuse boxes.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I pulled the glove box out to get better access to the BCM/Fuse panel there. When I pull the harness that has the headlamps in it, the permanently on driver side low beam goes out. I put it back and unplugged the driver side low beam so it doesn't drain the battery.

The car will still put up a "Low beam fault" when turning on the lights, dash goes out and wipers go wild. The passenger low beam is much dimmer than the driver side, tried multiple bulbs.

If I unplug the driver side headlamp harness plug, the car won't start and displays a passkey error or whatever (didn't get a pic).


So I'm thinking my BCM has a short in it and needs replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can one change their own BCM or does it need special programming done by the dealer?
 

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I can't find any relays related to the low beams so i guess it's all in the BCM?
The BCM does contain a lot of relays- the headlights might be one of them. There used to be a free online wiring diagram site but it's been shut down. The Motorcraft/ Ford USA website has paid access - it could be worth spending some money to get the proper diagrams.

I was just looking at some I wiring diagrams I downloaded and the engine bay fuse box has "F39 Headlamp Control Module HCM" listed. So perhaps there is a separate HCM module to the BCM? F24 is shown as going straight to the Headlamp Switch. F39 goes to the headlights and HCM module. The High Beam relay is shown as being onboard the BCM (non serviceable) -it's fed by F74 and the power exits on C2280D pins 10 and 11; the Right Headlight low beam and Left Headlight Low Beam signal are shown exiting the BCM on plug C2280D pins 1 and 2. They appear to perhaps be logic signals rather than the direct connection to the headlights, as they're exiting a section of the BCM labelled "Micro" with no relay shown? There's also a "LIN" signal exiting the BCM labelled "Headlamps/ Auto Lamps" - perhaps going tothe HCM? "LIN" normally is used to signify a data bus type signal.

Before replacing anything, I'd suggest checking both battery terminals closely for corrosion (a common problem on the rear earth terminal and it's Battery Management System module.) Also, it could be worthwhile scanning the car with ForScan to see what errors it picks up.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
The BCM does contain a lot of relays- the headlights might be one of them. There used to be a free online wiring diagram site but it's been shut down. The Motorcraft/ Ford USA website has paid access - it could be worth spending some money to get the proper diagrams.

I was just looking at some I wiring diagrams I downloaded and the engine bay fuse box has "F39 Headlamp Control Module HCM" listed. So perhaps there is a separate HCM module to the BCM? F24 is shown as going straight to the Headlamp Switch. F39 goes to the headlights and HCM module. The High Beam relay is shown as being onboard the BCM (non serviceable) -it's fed by F74 and the power exits on C2280D pins 10 and 11; the Right Headlight low beam and Left Headlight Low Beam signal are shown exiting the BCM on plug C2280D pins 1 and 2. They appear to perhaps be logic signals rather than the direct connection to the headlights, as they're exiting a section of the BCM labelled "Micro" with no relay shown? There's also a "LIN" signal exiting the BCM labelled "Headlamps/ Auto Lamps" - perhaps going tothe HCM? "LIN" normally is used to signify a data bus type signal.

Before replacing anything, I'd suggest checking both battery terminals closely for corrosion (a common problem on the rear earth terminal and it's Battery Management System module.) Also, it could be worthwhile scanning the car with ForScan to see what errors it picks up.
Thanks for replying.

I'm pretty sure the relays are firing off from within the BCM. Got the wife to kick off the event while I was right there. The fuse diagrams do point to a HCM on the diagrams but they are all empty in my box. Probably for an upgraded model or something. The only one I have is the high beam 74 in the BCM/fuse box.

When I pulled the plug C2280D the permanently on driver side low beam turns off. Battery terminals are quite clean. I hate to go to the stealership but if I can't change a BCM myself because of specific software/equipment, I guess that's where we'll end up. But I would like to fix it myself if it's possible. I have both original keys with the integrated fob. I'm thinking the BCM would need some reprogramming to make the keys work again just not sure if that's possible without specialized equipment.

Also when I pulled F24 fuse, headlamp switch, it behaves the same as turning the lights on, goes bonkers like stated above. I found a youtube where a guy replaces a lamp switch and as soon as he unplugged it, the lights turned on until he plugged the new lamp switch in. So I'm thinking the lamp switch is fine. Thinking it's the relays in the BCM.

I can unplug both low beams and flash my high beams just fine. With the low beams plugged in and flash the high beams it triggers the event mentioned above.

I did try Forscan but I have an older BT ELM327 v 1.3a and it takes a while to get anything BCM related, it errors out alot when it gets to the BCM. But it has shown things like short circuit or open, ground fault type errors on the low beam headlamps.

We'll operate daytime only and use fog lamps until I figure if I can complete a BCM install myself or not.
 

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Check the BMS sensor on the negative battery cable.
When it goes bad or gets corroded it causes problems on the LIM D data bus and causes a whole multitude of issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Check the BMS sensor on the negative battery cable.
When it goes bad or gets corroded it causes problems on the LIM D data bus and causes a whole multitude of issues.
I ordered a new negative battery cable with the BMS and will pick up tomorrow. The old one looks clean but I'll swap it out since it's not that expensive.
 

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Few things...
1) When you unbolt the wiper arms don't move them from their horizontal position
2) Once the wiper nut is moved you just lift the arm outward to release it, it doesn't need a puller.
3) DO NOT turn on the ignition unless the wiper arms are installed or you'll have to fight with the BCM knocking the wiper motors out of alignment.
 

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I did try Forscan but I have an older BT ELM327 v 1.3a and it takes a while to get anything BCM related, it errors out alot when it gets to the BCM. But it has shown things like short circuit or open, ground fault type errors on the low beam headlamps.
Get yourself a decent OBD2 interface (one of the Ford compatible OBDLink devices would be the best option).

Have you left the battery disconnected for a while to see if a "hard reset" makes any difference? You could also try reflashing the "As Built" data to the BCM- do some searching on that one.

I'd avoid (at all costs) removing the wipers/ cowling to do any battery/ loom work. Many people have come unstuck doing it that way- remove the air filter box and slide the battery out. My wipers also won't come off without using a puller, so you'd want to be sure you've got access to one if doing it that way.

While you're in that area there is a battery junction box on the front of the battery case. Check all the mega fuses are tightly bolted down.
 
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Get yourself a decent OBD2 interface (one of the Ford compatible OBDLink devices would be the best option).

Have you left the battery disconnected for a while to see if a "hard reset" makes any difference? You could also try reflashing the "As Built" data to the BCM- do some searching on that one.

I'd avoid (at all costs) removing the wipers/ cowling to do any battery/ loom work. Many people have come unstuck doing it that way- remove the air filter box and slide the battery out. My wipers also won't come off without using a puller, so you'd want to be sure you've got access to one if doing it that way.

While you're in that area there is a battery junction box on the front of the battery case. Check all the mega fuses are tightly bolted down.
So I replaced the negative battery cable with the BMS. The original actually did have corrosion on it, just couldn't see it until I took the cowl off. I tried to keep my wipers from moving but must have messed it up since I had to learn how to reset them and that was fun. Then I reset the BMS with the key on but not running, 5 High Beam flashes then 3 brake presses, 10 seconds later battery symbol flashes a few times.

I took me a little bit of time to do this and I had the negative cable off the entire time so not sure if that counts as a hard reset.

I still can't turn my headlights on. The relays pulse rapidly and then everything on the dash shuts down then the wipers go full blast.

Things I've noticed:

  1. Key off, Driver side low beam is on, passenger off
  2. Key on but not running, Driver side low beam on, both high beam bulbs have a very slight glow, must look directly at the bulb to see the glow, no light on wall in front of car
  3. pull lever to flash high beams, rapid pulsing relays but only driver side high beam flashes but with flicker since the relay is rapidly pulsating
  4. If I do #3 long enough the engine will shut off if it is running or sometimes just triggers the wacky event above
  5. removed passenger high beam, pull lever to flash high beams, driver side light solid, no pulsating of relays

Got forscan to work with my ELM327, try resetting but keep coming back. I have both low beams unplugged.

I may try checking the mega fuses.


Screenshot_20210217-215416_FORScan Lite.jpg
 

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@LS3Please ..So you reset the BMS with the negative cable off the battery? I thought it would need to be attached so it actually set the battery days in service back to zero which you would only normally do if you replaced the battery itself.
In any case I am not that sure that the methods of pushing buttons and brake pedal or whatever to reset BMS actually works.
There are various different videos on resetting the BMS this way including pressing the fog light switch 5 times and then the hazard light 3 times within 10 seconds and then the battery light will also flash 3 times after 10 seconds or so.
Perhaps you could go through many crazy different sequences of flashing lights and pushing random buttons and depressing pedals etc. and the battery symbol would also flash 3 times after a short time but has nothing to do with resetting the BMS.

The only way that you could actually prove that one of these methods works is to check the battery with Forscan to see if the days in service has gone back to zero after applying a BMS video reset 'method'.

Be interesting to hear if anyone has actually done this...:p.
 
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@LS3Please ..So you reset the BMS with the negative cable off the battery? I thought it would need to be attached so it actually set the battery days in service back to zero which you would only normally do if you replaced the battery itself.
In any case I am not that sure that the methods of pushing buttons and brake pedal or whatever to reset BMS actually works.
There are various different videos on resetting the BMS this way including pressing the fog light switch 5 times and then the hazard light 3 times within 10 seconds and then the battery light will also flash 3 times after 10 seconds or so.
Perhaps you could go through many crazy different sequences of flashing lights and pushing random buttons and depressing pedals etc. and the battery symbol would also flash 3 times after a short time but has nothing to do with resetting the BMS.

The only way that you could actually prove that one of these methods works is to check the battery with Forscan to see if the days in service has gone back to zero after applying a BMS video reset 'method'.

Be interesting to hear if anyone has actually done this...:p.

After reading your post I looked around in Forscan lite and found a BMS reset there and completed the procedure since I didn't do that when I changed the battery 18 months ago.

I left the battery cable off all night and tried the BCM reset in Forscan also but I still have the same problems with the head lamps.
 

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I'd be investigating that BCM fault "U3008:13-2F Control Module Ground A"

e.g. I just found this BCM grounding issue causing erratic/intermittent operation of electrical components.

You need to make sure all the power and ground feeds to the modules are correct first. They won't operate correctly if there are power/ ground issues.
Looks like I need to find where the grounds are. The link you posted said to check g103 and g200. I can't find any diagrams for the 2014 escape on where those are. I see a couple underneath the air box but I'm sure there's more.
 

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Looks like I need to find where the grounds are. The link you posted said to check g103 and g200. I can't find any diagrams for the 2014 escape on where those are. I see a couple underneath the air box but I'm sure there's more.
I'd be investigating that BCM fault "U3008:13-2F Control Module Ground A"

e.g. I just found this BCM grounding issue causing erratic/intermittent operation of electrical components.

You need to make sure all the power and ground feeds to the modules are correct first. They won't operate correctly if there are power/ ground issues.
Anyone have a diagram of the BCM that shows all the ground pins? I can check those if I knew which ones were which right?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Anyone have a diagram of the BCM that shows all the ground pins? I can check those if I knew which ones were which right?
I found a diagram that shows g200 ground, it's bolted to the passenger rocker panel and goes to C2280E pin 2...black/gray wire. I checked it through the plug and I get the same voltage as the battery.

Where is g103 ?
 

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I don't know if this will help Wiring System & Related Parts FORD Kuga 2012- (CBS)
I checked it through the plug and I get the same voltage as the battery.
That would indicate your ground is open circuit.

If you're absolutely 100% certain you've got the correct pin that is the earth you could try manually earthing it to the chassis and see if the fault is fixed. Don't do it unless you're absolutely sure - if you earth out the wrong pin it won't end well!
 

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I don't know if this will help Wiring System & Related Parts FORD Kuga 2012- (CBS)

That would indicate your ground is open circuit.

If you're absolutely 100% certain you've got the correct pin that is the earth you could try manually earthing it to the chassis and see if the fault is fixed. Don't do it unless you're absolutely sure - if you earth out the wrong pin it won't end well!
I bought a shop manual. For code 3008:13 it says to check two grounds on the BCM, first is on C2280E pin 2 and second is on C2280A pin 3. Both are a black/gray wire.

I followed Scotty Kilmer's videos on checking grounds via volt meter (don't have a power probe) with the positive on the positive battery terminal and the other lead on the ground
wire. I get the exact same voltage that I get at the battery so according to Scotty, they are good.

I checked C2280D pin 1 & 2 (RH and LH halogen low beams) while the harness was unplugged and they both are hot.

The shop manual final check after the two ground checks says to look at TSBs and if there is nothing there, replace the BCM.

Open circuit? Maybe inside the BCM, I think the ground wires/harness is fine but I did NOT stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
 

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checking grounds via volt meter (don't have a power probe) with the positive on the positive battery terminal and the other lead on the ground
wire. I get the exact same voltage that I get at the battery so according to Scotty, they are good.
That changes things a bit. Your initial post sounded like you were measuring the "normal way" between ground (chassis) and the pins, 12V between there would have indicated an open circuit ground.

You could check the resistance between the pins and the chassis while the plug is unplugged. If it isn't very close to the resistance reading you get with the multimeter probes shorted together then there could still be resistance in the earth wires causing problems.
 

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That changes things a bit. Your initial post sounded like you were measuring the "normal way" between ground (chassis) and the pins, 12V between there would have indicated an open circuit ground.

You could check the resistance between the pins and the chassis while the plug is unplugged. If it isn't very close to the resistance reading you get with the multimeter probes shorted together then there could still be resistance in the earth wires causing problems.
Just noticed the horn doesn't work either. When you press the steering wheel switch for the horn it rapid fires (rapid clicking relay) and maybe just a quick "ho---" then nothing and the headlights start to glow a little.
 
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