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We borrowed, then bought one. The road trip will tell us what mpg it will get, which is 35mpg. It bothers me when people refuse to believe when someone posts mpg numbers higher than theirs. Just because I don't treat every stoplight like a drag race and go 90mph doesn't mean I don't get those numbers. This was in a 55mph area (it's all 55 up here) , but very hilly with the ac blasting
It's not that people here, me included, do not believe you. It is just that it is rare to get that gas mileage with a 2L as I mentioned earlier. I have briefly hit 6.9L/100km. (34.34mpg. US) according to the dash display, whilst driving mainly on the highway but could not maintain it.
If you can average 35mpg. on your highway trip then that's great and good luck to you. You obviously know how to get the best out of your SUV and I wish you well ;).
 

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2020 Escape
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Well. My 2020, when I drive it in eco, I’ve hit as high 38 mpg per the lie-o-meter. The only way to really tell is to hand calculate. When my wife drives it, low 30’s. So I believe it’s possible no matter what model year.
 

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Well. My 2020, when I drive it in eco, I’ve hit as high 38 mpg per the lie-o-meter. The only way to really tell is to hand calculate. When my wife drives it, low 30’s. So I believe it’s possible no matter what model year.
Yep..but that is a 2020 model with a 1.5L motor and an ECO mode so it makes sense that it will be more ecomical compared to a slightly heavier vehicle with a 2L motor and a power increase of around 44kw/60hp and more than 100nm extra torque 😊.
 

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True. But the point I was trying to make, but did a not so impressive job, was what the vehicle is rated for does not mean much. I’m assuming ford rated the 2020 at 30 overall with 33 on the highway in eco mode. So I get 38 on the highway.

Then why is it not possible for OP get what he feels is a number he wants in the configuration he’s look to at?

Much of this comes down to driving style. Why does it have to be all thIs “it won’t do this, it won’t do that”.

Let the guy run his test and report back. Either it will or it won’t.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Aero is the biggest voodoo of all and more isn't always better. We used to think belly pans would get stock cars around Daytona faster. They don't. All they did was make the car a bear to drive. People complain, everything looks alike. Well, that's because there is only one 'best' aero shape, for practicality sake, in each class of vehicle, and everyone is closing in on it.
Automotive engineers and designers are all a lot smarter these days, and work together to match up everything as humanly possible, to give you the best they can, in a specific category, and price range.
aero isn't voodoo. you want just enough downforce front and rear to have a stable vehicle while accomplishing the lowest drag coefficient and smallest frontal area possible. underbelly pans without any diversion of air away from the underside of the car creates lift and needs to be offset by downforce, or the air needs to be diverted like GM does with a front lip that follows the shape of the bumper (not like the cooling related air dams of the 90s). limiting cooling openings to 20% of the radiator area, which most manufacturers seem to be doing nowadays, except chrysler, while shrouding the gap between the bumper and radiator is another really easy way. tire slats and diffusers are another. tire slats seem to be everywhere, but shrouding from the rear suspension back and adding a diffuser like toyota does would really help. one thing that needs widespread acceptance, and would make the biggest difference is body shape. A cammback with lots of boat tail ending in sharp corners, or even better, comes to a point is ideal to limit the turbulence and effective area for the turbulence to collect and add drag. This combined with more frontal area is actually why suvs, vans, and hatchbacks get worse fuel economy, not weight. The turbulent air circles behind the car and effectively pulls back on it. not voodoo, and very well understood by a lot of people, especially those of us with degrees in related fields.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
why is it not possible for OP get what he feels is a number he wants in the configuration he’s look to at?

Much of this comes down to driving style. Why does it have to be all thIs “it won’t do this, it won’t do that”.

Let the guy run his test and report back. Either it will or it won’t.
this is my point and problem exactly. I get 54 regularly out of my cruze, have gotten 45 out of a jetta 2.5 regularly, 30 out of an acadia, ect... without coming even close to hypermiling. I'm not even saying I'll get rid of it, just it wouldn't get driven much. why would I drive a car that gets half the fuel economy of my other car? that just wouldn't make sense.
 

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True, But the point I was trying to make, but did a not so impressive job, was what the vehicle is rated for does not mean much. I’m assuming ford rated the 2020 at 30 overall with 33 on the highway in eco mode. So I get 38 on the highway.

Then why is it not possible for OP get what he feels is a number he wants in the configuration he’s look to at?

Much of this comes down to driving style. Why does it have to be all thIs “it won’t do this, it won’t do that”.

Let the guy run his test and report back. Either it will or it won’t.
That's fine, I understand your point, but in my case I did not say 35mpg average in the 2L model could not be achieved, I just said it was rare. I also said that I could almost reach this figure briefly in my car but could not average it on a trip. That is just my experience, others may differ.

I also accepted what the OP was saying and the fact that his driving style obviously was contributing to his car's mpg figure and wished him well on his upcoming trip where he was going to confirm the gas economy of his new purchase.

Surely there is nothing wrong with that...we are all here to learn..:D
 

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aero isn't voodoo. you want just enough downforce front and rear to have a stable vehicle while accomplishing the lowest drag coefficient and smallest frontal area possible. underbelly pans without any diversion of air away from the underside of the car creates lift and needs to be offset by downforce, or the air needs to be diverted like GM does with a front lip that follows the shape of the bumper (not like the cooling related air dams of the 90s). limiting cooling openings to 20% of the radiator area, which most manufacturers seem to be doing nowadays, except chrysler, while shrouding the gap between the bumper and radiator is another really easy way. tire slats and diffusers are another. tire slats seem to be everywhere, but shrouding from the rear suspension back and adding a diffuser like toyota does would really help. one thing that needs widespread acceptance, and would make the biggest difference is body shape. A cammback with lots of boat tail ending in sharp corners, or even better, comes to a point is ideal to limit the turbulence and effective area for the turbulence to collect and add drag. This combined with more frontal area is actually why suvs, vans, and hatchbacks get worse fuel economy, not weight. The turbulent air circles behind the car and effectively pulls back on it. not voodoo, and very well understood by a lot of people, especially those of us with degrees in related fields.
Forget I even opened my opinion hole. I may not have a degree. All I have is 40 years experience dealing with it on race cars. First half cheating the rules, the second half enforcing them. Everything you said in it's raw, quick, down and dirty, explanation is correct. But that's the easy part. After that it's a whole 'nother bundle of mysteries on how to get it all working together with the outcome you want.
 
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