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2019 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E AWD
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Discussion Starter #1
Other posts have shown the rubber firewall plug but pics tended to be so close it was hard to understand the location. Snapped this pic for a member yesterday and thought it might be helpful to post for others.

Steering shaft for location reference. Foreground is the top of my Husky floor liner, then top of the colored carpet, then the dark felt sound deadening pad. The felt pad is pre-perforated along the outline where it is removed in the pic .... feel with your fingernails and you should find it and be able to simply pull it out to expose the rubber plug.

I promise you cannot see this plug from the engine compartment side.

From the inside - Pull the rubber plug and use a long coat hanger wire to 'fish for daylight' in the engine compartment - then pull whatever wire you need back through the hole and rubber plug. Seal your wire through the plug with RTV/silicon, slit the pad to allow it to fit back in place with your wire penetrating.

Once you have your wire through you can work it around to the desired path in the engine compartment - pic 2 attached is just to show where my audio power cable ended up 'heading down to the plug' with a bit of 'finagling' (ignore the notes - pic was labeled for a different purpose, that's why the battery cover is off).

Hope the info & pics are helpful.
 

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Much thanks! Whenever I get around to installing an active alarm or other electronics, these pics will come in handy!
 

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Trying to install a Amature Radio in my Escape, couldn't figure out how to get the wires from the battery to the inside. This really helped thanks for posting the pictures. Now I need to figure out how to hide the wires running to the back seat.
 

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2019 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E AWD
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Discussion Starter #5
@bill1952 (Good year ;-) noting this is your first post, Welcome to the Forum - please post in the introduction section to tell us about your Escape !

.... Now I need to figure out how to hide the wires running to the back seat.
I've got large power cables running along the driver-side body sill under the carpet from the above pictured firewall grommet to the cargo area; pull the kick panel, door sill & lower B-pillar trim to lift the carpet & pad. There's a hole through the raised reinforcing beams across the floor at the floor/sidewall intersection so the cable lays in the 'corner' all the way back.

FYI when you do that ^^ you'll expose several chassis ground lugs along the way in the lower sill (black wires captured under them).

All the trim panels 'snap in' - use plastic trim-popper tools to pry up without scratching.

To get off the kick panel you've got to remove the hood-latch lever .... pop off the center cap then look closely inside .... with good light you'll see two tabs 180 degrees apart that must be pinched to the center to release the lever from the shaft. That one can be tricky the first time you do it.

All my audio signal cables run via the console and under the carpet along the center tunnel > under back seat > to cargo area. Lots more work but necessary if you need to run something that shouldn't be adjacent/parallel to the power-feed for a long run to avoid induced noise.

Hope that helps.

PS all the above is valid for '13-'16 model years.... lots is different on the '17(+) so the situation may be different on any/all my points.
 

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2014 Ford Escape Titanium, 2.0L, Sync 2 MFT
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This is great information. Does anyone have any info on how to remove plastic around the stereo?


It would be better if you create a new thread asking this information. Or try searching the forum to see if this has been answered. That way this thread will stay in topic.
 

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Great info Centex. I can confirm this location is same for RHD models except you have to remove the glovebox to get to it. I had this done when installing my WMI.
 

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I've really got to start coming here before starting any projects on my 2015 Escape. Thanks for the info/pictures, this REALLY came in handy!
 

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+1 I had the air filter, battery box, and upper paneling out; you're right, there was no way of knowing it was there from under the hood. Has anyone found a good way to get a wire from the battery + to the alternator positive? I assume the best way would be from under the car from the passenger wheel well...
 
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