[Goatwhisperer]

Couple nights ago, left the rear hatch open on my vehicle for about 8 hours (it’s in the garage). Went to start and engine will not turn over. All lights, heater, washer blades, radio work just fine. Just won’t start. Then it threw a“engine fault service now” message.

I tried using my battery charger to recharge and it read 25% and then the charger threw a SUL /bad battery code (sulfated) at 28% and shut off.

Tried jump starting several times over the course of an hour with no luck.

Turn key
All indicators come on.
then “engine fault service now” message comes on
lights and radio work fine
Haven’t noticed a clicking sound

I have had the car for about 3.5 years and have not changed out the battery yet. Had 40k when I got it, about 85k miles now.


Before I resort to having it towed to my mechanic, I’m thinking I should first change the battery. Then check fuses.

I have an obd2 coming and-plan to use FORSCAN once it arrives ( not a lot of stores carry the better OBD2s here in the boonies of Maine).

advice, thoughts on what to check/look for first, ideas on a better plan of attack? Any help appreciated!

 

[Goatwhisperer]

It’s a 2014 SE AWD 2.0L with key start (rookie here )

 

[jpohlman]

The battery is probably too far gone to jump, you probably need a new battery.
ForScan will be able to read the codes, there's an entire set of threads on how to swap out the battery and what to watch out for. Biggest land mine to avoid is to turn the wipers completely off before touching the battery so that the wipers don't get out of sync.

 

[Goatwhisperer]

Thanks for the tip on the landmine. I’m praying that replacing the battery will fix the issue. I heard that the car won’t throw an error for a bad starter but have read some posts that sound like a bad battery “might” send an error. Praying to the car gods the battery is all it needs. It’s the lights working that has me baffled.

The battery is probably too far gone to jump, you probably need a new battery.
ForScan will be able to read the codes, there's an entire set of threads on how to swap out the battery and what to watch out for. Biggest land mine to avoid is to turn the wipers completely off before touching the battery so that the wipers don't get out of sync.

 

[jpohlman]

You could have lights turn on at 25% charge.
It all comes down to what DTCs are being thrown.

 

[waverunner10]

the battery in my 2013 2 liter has a life of 3 years
I have had to replace the battery twice since I bought the car used in 2015 with 38,000 miles
I now have 111,000 miles. 3 years seems to be the normal lifespan for me

 

[wiz043]

Thanks for the tip on the landmine. I’m praying that replacing the battery will fix the issue. I heard that the car won’t throw an error for a bad starter but have read some posts that sound like a bad battery “might” send an error. Praying to the car gods the battery is all it needs. It’s the lights working that has me baffled.

Also if changing the battery solves your problem don't forget to reset the BMS. This can be done with your new Forscan and there are other threads here on how to do that.

 

[bigbirchlake]

Battery is #1 suspect here. I have had 2 Escapes now and both of them have had the original Motorcraft battery fail at exactly 3.5 years. Replace the battery and see if that resolves your problems, high probability that it will.

Are you familiar with how to change these batteries? Not as straight forward as many vehicles. Check YouTube and also multiple threads on this forum about replacing them.

And yes, the BMS absolutely needs to be reset whenever you replace a battery. I use Forscan for that, very easy and takes all of maybe 5 minutes start to finish. BMS reset is important so your vehicle's computer knows you have a NEW battery installed and will then adjust charging strategy as that will be different than the strategy of charging your old battery.

You will need a compatible Forscan ADAPTER to reset the BMS and you can download Forscan off the web. A basic OBDII code reader will not allow you into Forscan. What exactly did you order? I use OBDLINK EX FORscan Adapter, purchased from Amazon for about 50 bucks. 5 Star rating, works super well.

Good luck and keep us updated!

 

[Goatwhisperer]

the battery in my 2013 2 liter has a life of 3 years
I have had to replace the battery twice since I bought the car used in 2015 with 38,000 miles
I now have 111,000 miles. 3 years seems to be the normal lifespan for me

Then it sounds like I am due! What battery do you recommend/avoid?

 

[Goatwhisperer]

Battery is #1 suspect here. I have had 2 Escapes now and both of them have had the original Motorcraft battery fail at exactly 3.5 years. Replace the battery and see if that resolves your problems, high probability that it will.

Are you familiar with how to change these batteries? Not as straight forward as many vehicles. Check YouTube and also multiple threads on this forum about replacing them.

And yes, the BMS absolutely needs to be reset whenever you replace a battery. I use Forscan for that, very easy and takes all of maybe 5 minutes start to finish. BMS reset is important so your vehicle's computer knows you have a NEW battery installed and will then adjust charging strategy as that will be different than the strategy of charging your old battery.

You will need a compatible Forscan ADAPTER to reset the BMS and you can download Forscan off the web. A basic OBDII code reader will not allow you into Forscan. What exactly did you order? I use OBDLINK EX FORscan Adapter, purchased from Amazon for about 50 bucks. 5 Star rating, works super well.

Good luck and keep us updated!

I've watched the videos on both the cowl and air supply methods. Not sure which way I'll go at it - I may try one and wait til I hit a roadblock before trying the other. Oh how I long for my old Ford F150s from the 80s (never paid more than $3K for one, so simple to fix and ran em until they died a graceful death). Might read a few more threads before I tackle it. I have to go out and get the battery tonight and may attempt it this evening/do diagnostics and reset BMS tomorrow morning.

I ordered the OBDLINK EX FORscan Adapter and have downloaded Forscan (checking it out a bit - wow! lots o stuff!). I have access to a basic code reader and am wondering if Forscan provides a lookup of the codes until my OBDLINK EX arrives on Saturday (hopefully!).

Relieved to hear so many think it is the battery - that message had me thinking the car was completely dead until I did some research and found all you lovely people.

Thanks for the tips - I'll keep y'all posted!

 

[Goatwhisperer]

Also if changing the battery solves your problem don't forget to reset the BMS. This can be done with your new Forscan and there are other threads here on how to do that.

Roger that! I'll search for those threads as my bedtime reading!

 

[jpohlman]

As far as a battery recommendation, it's all a matter of what you want to spend and your budget.
Most batteries are made by one of three (3) manufacturers, personally on my Ford's I stick with MotorCraft or Interstate.
An AGM type battery will be more expensive (~$60), but will last longer than a conventional flooded cell battery.

Here's a Ford coupon for the standard battery:

Ford Service Coupon

Ford Service Coupon Ford Motor Company wants all of our customers to experience quality services at an affordable rate. That's why we offer service coupons

fordservicecoupon.com

 

[Goatwhisperer]

As far as a battery recommendation, it's all a matter of what you want to spend and your budget.
Most batteries are made by one of three (3) manufacturers, personally on my Ford's I stick with MotorCraft or Interstate.
An AGM type battery will be more expensive (~$60), but will last longer than a conventional flooded cell battery.

Here's a Ford coupon for the standard battery:

Ford Service Coupon

Ford Service Coupon Ford Motor Company wants all of our customers to experience quality services at an affordable rate. That's why we offer service coupons

fordservicecoupon.com

Thanks so much! Very thoughtful of you!

 

[jpohlman]

I've watched the videos on both the cowl and air supply methods. Not sure which way I'll go at it - I may try one and wait til I hit a roadblock before trying the other. Oh how I long for my old Ford F150s from the 80s (never paid more than $3K for one, so simple to fix and ran em until they died a graceful death). Might read a few more threads before I tackle it. I have to go out and get the battery tonight and may attempt it this evening/do diagnostics and reset BMS tomorrow morning.

I ordered the OBDLINK EX FORscan Adapter and have downloaded Forscan (checking it out a bit - wow! lots o stuff!). I have access to a basic code reader and am wondering if Forscan provides a lookup of the codes until my OBDLINK EX arrives on Saturday (hopefully!).

Relieved to hear so many think it is the battery - that message had me thinking the car was completely dead until I did some research and found all you lovely people.

Thanks for the tips - I'll keep y'all posted!

Personally I prefer going through the cowl it takes maybe 30 minutes, if you have the wipers turned completely off the chance of killing the motor calibration is minimal. The wiper alignment marks are on the lower windshield and the arms have a spring lock built into them that grabs the motor stud, do the driver's side first, take off the nut, and without changing the horizontal position raise the arm. It should come off from the stud with very little effort then do the other side.
The reason I don't like the air box method is that you risk cracking the high amp fuses on the front battery compartment plate when you remove it and you risk pulling the pins out of the BMS pigtail.

The cowl has like 7-8 clips holding it to the lower cowl, once you pull those pop the cowl off at the windshield (that are plastic standoffs that pop into the car body up there) working from one side to the other. The lower cowl only has 4 bolts, 2 are on either side by the wiper and 2 are on the fender, you'll also need either a T-25? torx screwdriver or a flat head to take off the brake fluid reservoir (hose stays attached). At this point you have the battery covers in front of you and it's easy to get to the rest, take good look at the BMS sensor and it's pigtail at the negative post, I would spray them with WD40 even if they look good.

Drop the battery in and put it all back together BEFORE touching the key so that you minimize the chance of the wiper motors moving without the arms on them and loosing calibration.

 

[wiz043]

Agree with all on post #14, however there is a strong chance the wiper spindles/studs will rotate at some stage as they freewheel very easily with ignition and wiper arms off causing the motor calibration to be out.
What I would suggest is that when the cowls are replaced and you are ready to replace the wiper arms, turn on the ignition and lift the wiper stalk to the first position allowing the spindles to do one full cycle then turn the ignition and wiper switch off. Then replace the wiper arms taking care not to move the spindles/studs from their position.
You can then test the wipers to see if they operate correctly.

 

[Goatwhisperer]

Personally I prefer going through the cowl it takes maybe 30 minutes, if you have the wipers turned completely off the chance of killing the motor calibration is minimal. The wiper alignment marks are on the lower windshield and the arms have a spring lock built into them that grabs the motor stud, do the driver's side first, take off the nut, and without changing the horizontal position raise the arm. It should come off from the stud with very little effort then do the other side.
The reason I don't like the air box method is that you risk cracking the high amp fuses on the front battery compartment plate when you remove it and you risk pulling the pins out of the BMS pigtail.

The cowl has like 7-8 clips holding it to the lower cowl, once you pull those pop the cowl off at the windshield (that are plastic standoffs that pop into the car body up there) working from one side to the other. The lower cowl only has 4 bolts, 2 are on either side by the wiper and 2 are on the fender, you'll also need either a T-25? torx screwdriver or a flat head to take off the brake fluid reservoir (hose stays attached). At this point you have the battery covers in front of you and it's easy to get to the rest, take good look at the BMS sensor and it's pigtail at the negative post, I would spray them with WD40 even if they look good.

Drop the battery in and put it all back together BEFORE touching the key so that you minimize the chance of the wiper motors moving without the arms on them and loosing calibration.

Alas, I started going the air box route before I saw this…never again…cowl next time. Getting that box out and in was a huge pain in the butt. Lots of cursing and shaking of the fists at whoever designed that - and whoever changed the battery last time as they took some liberties with putting things back together. I did find an old mouse nest in the air filter (I replaced!) so one silver lining. Everything else was cake. Thanks for the tips though, as once I check codes it’s likely I’ll be diving back in.

 

[ralph7up]

Alas, I started going the air box route before I saw this…never again…cowl next time. Getting that box out and in was a huge pain in the butt. Lots of cursing and shaking of the fists at whoever designed that - and whoever changed the battery last time as they took some liberties with putting things back together. I did find an old mouse nest in the air filter (I replaced!) so one silver lining. Everything else was cake. Thanks for the tips though, as once I check codes it’s likely I’ll be diving back in.

Any idea who replaced battery and if the BMS was reset at that time?

 

[Goatwhisperer]

Any idea who replaced battery and if the BMS was reset at that time?

@ralph7up - before I got the vehicle, so more than 4 years ago. No clue about the BMS reset. If they didn’t do it, and I do it now with this battery replacement, anything I should be concerned about?

 

[murcod]

Not resetting it after fitting a new battery can cause some strange behaviour e.g. IIRC someone said their Start/ Stop wouldn't function even after fitting a new battery. Doing the BMS reset fixed that.

The number of days since it was last reset is displayed in ForScan, somewhere within the "BCMII" module I think?

 

[ralph7up]

Murcod is correct about weird stuff happening. Cannot be good for battery either. The DAYS IN SERVICE is what you will be looking for. I have a reader and validate that it has been reset properly at batter change. Even a Ford dealer is known to overlook despite the WSM being very clear if it’s necessity.