Yep. I got an oil change and three weeks later my coolant was 1 inch lower. No visible leak which means the leak is internal. It burns your coolant and it kills your engine.
When you take it in just tell them you've noticed exhaust smoke and a loss of coolant without any visible leak. They will most likely know what's wrong. Four hours after I brought mine in they called me to tell me that they had a loaner F150 for me and it would be a couple weeks. That was on Jan 13th and I'm getting my car back on Monday.
Also, what year escape do you have and engine size. Thank you.Another question for you sir, when you took vehicle to dealer did you have check engine light on at the or even prior, or even at all of your escapes life? I'm worried that I wont have "stored" codes. Then they'll put bandaid on.
Ford knew about the problemJust bought a 2019 at dealer with 3500 miles on it....two months ago. Just found out the engine needs to be replaced due to coolant leak into block. Seriously??!! Is this a problem Ford knew about as per bulletin? Recourse?
Ford knew about the problem
Did you have a check engine light on??
Okay, just trying to figure out if check engine light was in or not, as mine doesFord knew about the problem
Did you have a check engine light???My 2017 Escape 1.5L (90k mileage) started to consume coolant. Dealer found coolant leak into cylinder#3, long block needs to be replaced.
My 2017 Escape 1.5L (90k mileage) started to consume coolant. Dealer found coolant leak into cylinder#3, long block needs to be replaced.
What was it?2017 Ford Escape 1.5L with 42k miles. Started having misfiring about 8 months ago. Went to my local Ford dealership with this complaint and they put in a service ticket all to tell me the CPM needed to be reprogrammed. Fast forward 2 months, check engine light comes on, and high temp light. I pull over, get ready to turn the car off and both lights go off. Get out and check the coolant level and everything is fine. The next day my coolant was bone dry. Take it back to my local Ford dealership for its routine oil change and they tell me that there are no leaks and nothing was wrong with it after hooking it up to the computer. Not even 4 hours after I leave the dealership, my check engine light comes back on. At this point, I’m fed up with the local dealership so we call the dealership in the next town to make an appointment. Long story short, coolant was leaking in cylinder #2 and the small block needs replaced. Go to pick it up yesterday and as I put the car in drive it starts to go backwards. Weird, maybe I forgot how to drive this thing after 2 months in the shop. Switch it back into P, then down to R, then into D and it pops into gear. (I should of just stopped there) As I’m driving off the lot into traffic, I’m running about 5500RPMs at 35mph. Once the car shifts gears, the whole car starts to jerk with a hard knock and cannot exceed 40mph. I flip around and go back. I guess we will see what the new issue is.
Consider adding your vehicle information to your signature. It is difficult finding previous posts to try and determine the year, model, engine, and other pertinent informaiton that you are posting on. As near as I can tell you have the 1.5 EB. Does the engine have a TOTAL of 4000 miles on it or did you buy it used?Took the car in for the update today.
We go the car about 5 months and 4000 miles ago, and it seems to have lost no coolant.
It took less than 1.5 hours. (Should have waited)
Will let you know if we notice any difference.
Many threads on this board dealing with coolant loss. Suggest you read them. Regarding root cause, my opinion is that only Ford knows and is not telling. My best guess is that the “open block” design of the engine is not as robust as a “closed block” design. This combined with poor fabrication problems during manufacturing leads to the intrusion of coolant into the cylinders via one or more mechanisms. When that occurs, it destroys the engine. This also could be aggravated by aggressive driving which might cause cylinder pressures to rise. The fix by Ford is designed to keep the engine cooler which hopefully will compensate for the less robust engine design.My 2019 Escape with a 1.5L ecoboost engine had a coolant leak in to the engine and had to be replaced at 9,000 miles. I noticed my oil level on the dipstick was going up, which is never a good indication. The dealership did take care of it and provided me with a new car to use while they fixed mine. I know there has been numerous people reporting this issue on line. I can’t say the root cause is the same but the symptom is.
With that said, has anyone run in to the issue after an engine replacement? I really did not get an explanation on how the engine replacement addresses the root problem.
At the same time my engine was being replaced I received a notification about an internal recall that was for reprogramming the P.C.M.(I think this is the correct acronym). Anyway I found out from the service representative that reprogramming the P.C.M. was to keep the engine cooler to avoid warping head gasket issues, which by the way no one made it clear to me how the coolant was leaking in my case, but I think that is what happened to me. I’m sorry I don’t remember the number for the internal recall. Again I am concerned the issue was not addressed.
Yes, code for misfire.Okay, just trying to figure out if check engine light was in or not, as mine does
Did you have a check engine light???
I merged your thread with this existing thread. There are also other threads if you do a quick and easy searchMy 2019 Escape with a 1.5L ecoboost engine had a coolant leak in to the engine and had to be replaced at 9,000 miles. I noticed my oil level on the dipstick was going up, which is never a good indication. The dealership did take care of it and provided me with a new car to use while they fixed mine. I know there has been numerous people reporting this issue on line. I can’t say the root cause is the same but the symptom is.
With that said, has anyone run in to the issue after an engine replacement? I really did not get an explanation on how the engine replacement addresses the root problem.
At the same time my engine was being replaced I received a notification about an internal recall that was for reprogramming the P.C.M.(I think this is the correct acronym). Anyway I found out from the service representative that reprogramming the P.C.M. was to keep the engine cooler to avoid warping head gasket issues, which by the way no one made it clear to me how the coolant was leaking in my case, but I think that is what happened to me. I’m sorry I don’t remember the number for the internal recall. Again I am concerned the issue was not addressed.
Thank you Vader101!!!I merged your thread with this existing thread. There are also other threads if you do a quick and easy search
Please add your vehicle information to your signature line. Take a look at mine. It helps all of us help you.Ralph7up and Hammer53 thank you for the response. I apologize for starting a new message and not reading the other responses first. I’m new to the forum and I appreciate the feedback, it will make it easier to find answers more quickly.
I can say with out a doubt I babied the Escape I am driving. In fact I wondered if I bandied it too much. For the first 1,500 hundred miles I kept the car 55 and below. I also varied my speeds and never used the cruise control. I made sure my shift points on the transmission were no more than 2,500. Even at the point of having the Engine replaced I never gave the car full throttle or went above 3,500 RPM. I was worried that maybe letting the car shift too soon I may have been lugging the engine, but I don’t think this caused the issue. I hear about people who run these vehicles hard after break-in to prevent carbon build up on these engines. From the research I have done and feedback from engineers I believe on the all direct injection eco boost engines full throttle accelerations are actually worse for preventing carbon build ups. Anyway I apologize it is better to stay on subject.
Back to the original question, Hammer53 this was the information I was looking for. It is unfortunate that the replacement engine did not resolve the problem. Based on your response it sounds like we both got lucky in that we were under factory warranty. I have read about some who were not and it costed them around $6,000 to have the engine replaced. I wonder if the 2020 Escape with the 3cylinder eco boost will have similar issues, time will tell. I did hear thatlinder engine is Port and Direct injection which should help with the carbon issue, unfortunately that does not address the coolant leak we encountered.
So did you notice your coolant reservoir low at 9,000 miles? You indicated the dip stick level was high, was that after a recent oil change? My dealer overfilled mine recently. Some online references still say these engines take 5qts with a filter change. How long did your dealer take on the replacement procedure? Just gathering more info.....Ralph7up and Hammer53 thank you for the response. I apologize for starting a new message and not reading the other responses first. I’m new to the forum and I appreciate the feedback, it will make it easier to find answers more quickly.
I can say with out a doubt I babied the Escape I am driving. In fact I wondered if I bandied it too much. For the first 1,500 hundred miles I kept the car 55 and below. I also varied my speeds and never used the cruise control. I made sure my shift points on the transmission were no more than 2,500. Even at the point of having the Engine replaced I never gave the car full throttle or went above 3,500 RPM. I was worried that maybe letting the car shift too soon I may have been lugging the engine, but I don’t think this caused the issue. I hear about people who run these vehicles hard after break-in to prevent carbon build up on these engines. From the research I have done and feedback from engineers I believe on the all direct injection eco boost engines full throttle accelerations are actually worse for preventing carbon build ups. Anyway I apologize it is better to stay on subject.
Back to the original question, Hammer53 this was the information I was looking for. It is unfortunate that the replacement engine did not resolve the problem. Based on your response it sounds like we both got lucky in that we were under factory warranty. I have read about some who were not and it costed them around $6,000 to have the engine replaced. I wonder if the 2020 Escape with the 3cylinder eco boost will have similar issues, time will tell. I did hear thatlinder engine is Port and Direct injection which should help with the carbon issue, unfortunately that does not address the coolant leak we encountered.
Hello Hammer 52, I did not notice the coolant level being low. The dealer performed a pressure test and said the coolant level was lower than it should be. When they were done with my engine replacement the paperwork had a comment from the (Mechanic) stating that my oil level was a half quart or more over what it should be. I know what you are saying about sometimes dealerships have the oil a little above the full line, but this is usually consistent and I keep an eye on that, and this time it was definitely above what it should be.So did you notice your coolant reservoir low at 9,000 miles? You indicated the dip stick level was high, was that after a recent oil change? My dealer overfilled mine recently. Some online references still say these engines take 5qts with a filter change. How long did your dealer take on the replacement procedure? Just gathering more info.....