Hi there, I'm new to this forum and have a 2014 Ford Escape 1.6t with a front passenger ball joint that is bad and learned that you have to replace the entire control arm. Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the bolts that connect the control arm to the frame and also the pinch bolt. I can't find anything online for the 2013+ escape torque values? Thank you.
Perspective
Kudos for being torque sensitive.
Ball-joint pinch bolt: 83 Nm
"NOTICE: Tighten the suspension bushing fasteners with the suspension loaded or with the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires, otherwise incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur." (I used a floor-jack under the ball-joint to fully-load mine while the car was on jackstands at all four corners)
Through Bushing fastener (front of lower arm): 80 Nm + 360* (one full rotation)
The four fasteners, two upper, two lower, holding the 'strap' around the rear lower arm bushing (upper also holding the stabilizer-bar bushing): 115 Nm + 90* (one-quarter turn)
FYI the WSM shows all of the mentioned fasteners to be 'single-use - replace if removed'.
I don't mind looking up a few items on my WSM CD since we have the same year (don't hesitate to PM me), but FYI since you're into DIY: Workshop / Service Manual Sources
Edit - Be sure to support the wheel knuckle lest you allow the halfshaft to droop and exceed the CV joint max angle of 40* beyond which CV joint damage will occur. Lacking the restraint of the lower arm the remaining in-place upper suspension will tend to push everything out-board - check to ensure the halfshaft has not pulled even slightly out of the tranny case when you reassemble (suggest you inspect the halfshaft at the tranny case before disassembly to see what the 'fully-home' condition looks like, it's held in place by a spring-clip on the end of the halfshaft inside the tranny).
Hope that helps, have fun!
Ball-joint pinch bolt: 83 Nm
"NOTICE: Tighten the suspension bushing fasteners with the suspension loaded or with the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires, otherwise incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur." (I used a floor-jack under the ball-joint to fully-load mine while the car was on jackstands at all four corners)
Through Bushing fastener (front of lower arm): 80 Nm + 360* (one full rotation)
The four fasteners, two upper, two lower, holding the 'strap' around the rear lower arm bushing (upper also holding the stabilizer-bar bushing): 115 Nm + 90* (one-quarter turn)
FYI the WSM shows all of the mentioned fasteners to be 'single-use - replace if removed'.
I don't mind looking up a few items on my WSM CD since we have the same year (don't hesitate to PM me), but FYI since you're into DIY: Workshop / Service Manual Sources
Edit - Be sure to support the wheel knuckle lest you allow the halfshaft to droop and exceed the CV joint max angle of 40* beyond which CV joint damage will occur. Lacking the restraint of the lower arm the remaining in-place upper suspension will tend to push everything out-board - check to ensure the halfshaft has not pulled even slightly out of the tranny case when you reassemble (suggest you inspect the halfshaft at the tranny case before disassembly to see what the 'fully-home' condition looks like, it's held in place by a spring-clip on the end of the halfshaft inside the tranny).
Hope that helps, have fun!
Late PS - not especially a fan of HF but if you've got one near this made the job a lot easier, worked like a charm and didn't break https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
Suppose you can use a pickle-fork since you're not 'saving' the rubber joint-boot in your case.
Yeah, that puppy was firmly stuck even with the pinch-bolt removed and there's a captive sheet-metal tab covering the slot to discourage attempts to spread it manually which is risky anyway (cast metal, you know the drill).
Suppose you can use a pickle-fork since you're not 'saving' the rubber joint-boot in your case.
Yeah, that puppy was firmly stuck even with the pinch-bolt removed and there's a captive sheet-metal tab covering the slot to discourage attempts to spread it manually which is risky anyway (cast metal, you know the drill).
Sorry I didn't mention that though it's shown in the WSM control-arm R&R procedure.
Torques for the bracket fasteners FYI:
Two horizontal bolts: 25 Nm
Single vertical bolt: 48 Nm
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