PART 2 – ADDING AN AMPLIFIER / SUBWOOFER

THE OEM “AUDIO UNIT” (ACM)
The “Audio Unit” / "ACM" (as named in the FE Service Manual) is the box with the CD player which also contains the amplifier in the non-Sony system. Though other components (MFT Screen, dash controls, steering wheel controls, SYNC APIM (allowing voice command), etc) are integral to the operation of the overall system, the “Audio Unit” is the closest analogy to a traditional “head unit” in the non-Sony FE entertainment system.

+ It should be noted that the FE audio system is mainly controlled by the digital-logic canbus, not by ‘traditional’ electrical switches and analog electrical signals.

+ The FE amplifier/speaker system is “on” whenever the car is running in order to support SYNC-to-driver communications through the speakers. The system automatically turns “on” due to canbus commands whenever a door is opened (or the remote is used to unlock a door) and remains on for a pre-determined period of time if no other action is taken, then it turns “off”.

CONNECTING AN EXTERNAL AMPLIFIER
+ There is NO analog pre-amp output from the FE Audio Unit; even if there were, by definition a pre-amp output is ‘line level’ and would sacrifice all of the convenience of the MFT, steering wheel, dash and voice controls for volume, balance, fade, treble/mid/bass, etc.

+ Therefore it is necessary to use either 1) external amplifiers which directly accept speaker-level / high-level inputs; or 2) a Line Out Converter (LOC) between the Audio Unit and the amplifier low-level (RCA jack) inputs. The option of installing a Digital Signal Processor (DSP) is beyond the scope of this discussion.

+ The speaker-level output wires from the Audio Unit are in connector “C240A”; see the post above, Part 1, ACCESSING SPEAKERS, last bullet about accessing the front center speaker for how to remove the dash panel to expose the Audio Unit.

+ See the attached pics for an example of making input-output connections for an external amplifier at connector C240A, including a wire color chart.

EXTERNAL AMPLIFIER POWER SOURCE
+ Most automotive audio guidance suggests that added audio components be powered by a fused power feed directly from the battery in order to avoid noise (buzz, whistle, hiss, etc) which can easily be introduced if power is tapped from an existing fuse box or other 12 volt source. Therefore I will not discuss alternate sources of 12 volt feed for added components.

+ Forum member markboris shows us how to get through the firewall with a power feed from the battery in this post How to route front camera wires into the cab?

EXTERNAL AMPLIFIER ‘POWER ON’ CONTROL
I have not found a dedicated DC output which is analogous to a ‘remote power on/remote power antenna lead’ as found in some audio head units and commonly recommended as a source for a ‘remote power on input’ for external amplifiers. Some alternatives for power-on control are:

+ Tap BCM unused fuse slot F87 – this fuse is hot only when the ignition is on. Note this means that you will not get speaker sound /SYNC sound info as you would for a certain time before you start the car and after you shut it off like with the OEM system. You would not be able to play music at all with the key off like you can with the OEM setup.

+ Tap one of many “always on” circuits and add a manual turn-off switch – with the obvious great risk that if you forget to turn-off the system you’ll kill the battery.

+ Use an amplifier with speaker-level inputs that includes a feature sensing current in the speaker circuit to turn-on the amp. Current is present on the speaker wires when the Audio Unit is “on” even when no sound is present. Many offer this, for example the Alpine MRV-F300 4-channel amp and the Alpine PWE-S8 powered subwoofer (Google those models for more info). Both those components work flawlessly in my FE to exactly mimic the operation of the OEM system with zero turn-on pop, delay, sound clipping or other adverse effect. In addition, if the entertainment system is told to ‘shut-down’ by the FE battery-saver feature that will automatically also shut-down the added components.

+ Look for a separate device that uses the speaker-sensing technology described above as a turn-on trigger. The PAC TR-4 might work (I have NOT tested that device). Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

AMPLIFIER GROUNDING
+ Most automotive audio guidance suggests that all audio components be grounded to the same point to help avoid ground-looping which can induce noise in the system.

+ The audio components in the non-Sony FE all use the same grounding point, located under the carpet near the front of the driver’s door sill. Pry-up the plastic door sill on the driver’s side and pull-back the carpet that tucks under the sill in front of the seat. You will see three grounding screws in a cluster – the front-most screw, the only one with three separate wires under it, is the FE audio system ground point. Remove the screw, add your ring-end ground-wire connectors to the stack, route your ground(s) under the carpet. FWIW I didn’t even try another ground – I used this point for each separate ground wire to my added amps and have zero noise from the system.

>>>>>

Sorry for the long posts but I hope some will find the info helpful. Each step of my audio system upgrade yielded better sound in my FE. I’ll soon do a post in the “Electronics, Audio, and Lighting” subforum describing my completed audio upgrades.

 

Awesome post. Great info.

 

About MOLEX connectors for those that have never used them ..... they make great professional connections, are economical, are DIY-friendly, are reasonably compact, easy to install in cramped spaces.

Molex connectors are a system of plastic-bodied multi-pin connectors used in many OEM auto and electronic applications where weather-protection is not required. There are literally hundreds of MOLEX brand connectors for 1 to XX circuits (pins/wires) per connector and different wire gauges.

Each different size/type ("Series") of connector pin requires a specific crimp tool (to install the male/female pins to the wire) and extractor tool (to remove a pin from the plug body if you make a mistake or want to revise the connection). You MUST use the crimp tool designed specifically for your MOLEX connector Series to get acceptable results. Therefore it's more economical to work with one "Series" as much as possible to save tool cost.

I like the .093" Series connectors and use them a lot. They will accommodate #22 through #18 AWG wires (up to 16AWG in a pinch but that's an off-spec use). Pictured in my post above are 9-pin .093 Series for an 8-pin connection (one hole in the connectors is not used - no problem). That is MOLEX part no. 1292PRT which includes the male and female connector body, 11 female terminals (pins) and 11 male terminals. MOLEX connector kits always include extra pins.

I used the two-pin version, part # 76650-0060 where I cut-off the Ford connectors in the doors to install my speakers and tweeters. I soldered a short pigtail to the speaker terminals to reach the Ford harness where new MOLEX connectors were installed - looks and works like OEM if/when you need to pull speakers for work in the doors.

I use crimping tool WALDOM W-HT-1921-P and extractor W-HT-2038-P. Both tools run about $30 dollars now (combined price) and are 'forever' tools for most of us (the crimpers can wear out with high-volume of production use).

I buy locally at an electronics store (Altex in Austin, TX); Radio Shack carries limited supply of 'equivalent' connectors in their own packaging. Google is your friend for finding them from hundreds of online sources (use "molex .093 series" or the part numbers listed above).

HTH

 

some good info there.. Wow..

 

Very nice Centres as all ways.
Mark

 

Great thread! Wish someone had compiled all of this a year ago before just diving in.

I recently replaced my 3.5" center speaker with a Polk 4 ohm speaker. You want to talk about a massive upgrade to the sound! It was much like getting a high quality center channel speaker for your home theater system.

It pulled out the muddled mid-range only sound and gave both volume and vibrancy to music.

Considering I paid $25 for it (two were $50 and I have a spare) and it took five minutes to replace, it was well worth it.

 

Good INFO, but what did you do about the ohm difference?
Mark

 

I didn't worry about it. I upgraded the doors with Alpine 610s, which are also 4 ohms, and then Polk tweeters, which are the same. Everything is working beautifully together. After installing I just had to tweak the speaker output to rear bias slightly more in the MFT to balance out the sound.

 

so just to clarify Centex...you are running the Alpine PWE-S8?

where did you mount it? I didn't see it in your rear cargo area? of course I wasn't going to just go crawling around in there... lol

you have the powered sub and the amp all hooked up?

 

Patience, Grasshopper ;-)

None of the audio mods were in the FE when we visited, so there was nothing to see.

The speakers went in awhile ago (9/14) the rest a week ago and I've been 'calibrating' since (playing with gain, crossovers, balance/fade) using both test-tones and music, lowbrow instruments and ears. That iterative process has taken some time as my ears need rest and it helps to 'step away' not listening for awhile, listen at length, use different music, etc. The amps have been 'loose located' during that process so I can more easily access the controls which won't be so conveniently reached when in their final firm mounted locations.

All will be revealed when, in the next day or so, I complete the final bolt-down, get the wires hidden and snap a few pics.

 

centex, about the remote power on for your amp, you would want to connect that to the delayed ignition output, right? I have my amps connected to this output and it works as the factory system did. I looked at the wiring diagram and the non-Sony system is different than the Sony system in regards to which wire this is at the BCM and it also depends on if you have power window door modules in each door (all windows auto up and down). You probably know all of this but just in case......

 

centex, about the remote power on for your amp, you would want to connect that to the delayed ignition output, right? I have my amps connected to this output and it works as the factory system did. I looked at the wiring diagram and the non-Sony system is different than the Sony system in regards to which wire this is at the BCM and it also depends on if you have power window door modules in each door (all windows auto up and down). You probably know all of this but just in case......

Nope, I didn't, you are continuing my education as you have in the past.

As I understand, you are saying that in lieu of tapping an amp remote turn-on lead to BCM fuse 87 (which is hot only with ignition on), there is a place to tap 12 volt for that trigger which is hot during the same 'before and after startup' periods that the OEM sound system is hot.

No, I did not find that connection point (being lazy I quit looking when I found the 'speaker-sensing feature' of the amps I chose would work just fine without any separate remote turn-on connection).

If either one of us has a chance to describe that connection point for the readers, recognizing it is different depending on other features, that'd maybe be helpful in this thread for folks that don't have the Service Manual ;-)

(I may or may not get to finding that info)

BTW to everyone .... if you have tips relating to connecting audio mods to the non-Sony system which are proven to work, please feel free to add to this thread for the benefit of all

 

The thing is, before I post here on any thread, I like to test and confirm my findings to make sure it will work for others. Since I have the Sony audio system and door modules in each door, my delay ignition turn on lead is not in the same connector nor is it the same color wire as the one for your system described here. After looking at the wiring diagram for the non-Sony system, I see a couple of different wires I would tap into that should have DC output on the delayed ignition. One is at the main fuse box in the engine compartment and the other at the BCM. Do you have door modules in each door (all windows auto up and down)? I am actually in a plane to Utah right now and have nothing better to do so I can look at the wiring diagram again before we land.

 

The thing is, before I post here on any thread, I like to test and confirm my findings to make sure it will work for others...

I absolutely appreciate that ... thus my harping on "proven to work".

Since I have the Sony audio system and door modules in each door, my delay ignition turn on lead is not in the same connector nor is it the same color wire as the one for your system described here. After looking at the wiring diagram for the non-Sony system, I see a couple of different wires I would tap into that should have DC output on the delayed ignition. One is at the main fuse box in the engine compartment and the other at the BCM. Do you have door modules in each door (all windows auto up and down)? I am actually in a plane to Utah right now and have nothing better to do so I can look at the wiring diagram again before we land.

I have door modules but this issue is moot for me as stated above. Any additional info that can be posted about connections to the non-Sony system, as long as we make clear the precedent conditions (e.g. with/without door modules (auto-up-down on all windows)) would be for the benefit of others that follow. If 'untested' it'd be nice to simply present things as a "suggestion for testing to verify that it works as intended".




[totally off-topic rant - does anyone else find it irritating that we can't go back and edit posts, particularly technical posts, a hour or more after the OP? No reply to this rhetorical question needed ;-)]

 

I shall eagerly await the final items then sir!

as was stated...I like the overall quality of the 9 speaker system as it isn't too bad...but it definitely lacks lower freq presence...and I know it would be next to impossible to find a sub other than the factory unit to mount in the cubby on the driver side in the rear cargo area...and I have a powered kenwood unit in my truck and it works great working off the signal from the speakers.

Thank you sir!
D

 

Details of the components I chose and a few pics of the installed sub/amp are now posted at http://www.fordescape.org/forum/ele...o-lighting/30265-2014-se-alpine-edition-non-sony-audio-upgrades.html#post378457

@darrell ;-)

 

Where to mount crossover

Thinking about upgrading just front speakers, but wonder how/where to mount the crossovers since I'll be probably replacing the tweeters too in the A pillars. Is it easy to get at both the door and tweeter wires? I'm either going to replace all four doors with Sound Ordnance or Kickers just in the front doors. From what you are all suggesting, looks like I'll unplug the center speaker too.

 

@AzEscape - On the non-Sony system all the crossovers (xo's) are mounted on the speakers (capacitor on each speaker frame). So, when you pull the OEM speakers you've pulled the OEM xo and just connect your xo>speaker at that point.

For the front I would AVOID any component speaker system that uses a single xo box requiring connection to both the woofer and tweeter; use a system which has each xo separate or an inline xo between the woofer and tweeter (very common) so you can locate the xo for the woofer in the door and for the tweeter in the a-pillar. This because
1) It is extremely difficult (i.e. impossible) to get to the wires where they split for the front tweeter-woofer to tap for the xo at that point (deeply buried behind the dash on each side); and,
2) it is very difficult to run new wires through the lower A-pillar to the doors (but not impossible*).

There are plenty of options that meet the 'separate xo' criteria I suggest. Many component speaker pairs use a capacitor on the woofer for protection and a small inline xo between the woofer and tweeter for the tweeter; just mount that inline xo in the A-pillar or if too big, run a wire down the door trim to a space under the dash and then back up to the tweeter. If the specific S.O. or Kicker speakers you are considering don't have separate xo or an inline xo between the woofer and tweeter then I strongly urge you to look for something else - there are plenty of choices in the price and performance range similar to those that do.

*see next post

 

HOW TO GET NEW SPEAKER WIRES INTO THE FRONT DOORS

I would NOT do this for 99.9% of speaker replacement / audio upgrade projects. The OEM 18ga wire is perfectly capable of carrying all the output from the OEM head unit or an added amp up to 100+ watts driving a 4 Ohm speaker assuming 10 feet of wire from the amp to the speaker. This project is high difficulty level and should be avoided if possible, IMHO.

Use the speaker wire calculator on this page WIRE and consider how conservative it is before attempting this project.

IF you must proceed ....

1. At the point where the OEM wiring flex-duct attaches to the Escape A-pillar is a multi-pin connector which completely fills the hole through the body panel. If you try to drill-out this complex connector (many separate interlocking parts comprise each side of the connector) to run new wires through it you run great risk of ruining the connector and suffering great expense and hassle to replace it. You can pull-off the flex duct from the outside if you want to look; be sure to re-seat the duct-end properly if you do to ensure the water-tight seal is preserved. The connector is made to separate at this point (caution - must press locking tabs) to allow removal of the door for body service. Half of it stays connected to the A-pillar, the other half stays with the harness on the door. Again I urge you in strongest possible terms ... do not try to alter this connector; you might succeed but it is a high-risk approach, IMHO.

2. Instead, pull-out the body plug a few inches above the duct in the A-pillar. Behind that is a SMALL gap and the bolt for a main cross-body stiffener frame that runs full-width under the dashboard. Do NOT loosen that bolt.

3. Amass a selection of scrap stiff but bendable wire, long (18" heavy duty) zip-ties, coathanger wires, etc, etc. along with small bright flashlights.

4. Remove the dashboard end-caps, A-pillar trim and door trim in this area. On the passenger side, removing the glove box is essential.

5. Muster all the patience and time you have; small hands and contortionist experience is a plus.

6. Probe with your wires, zip-ties and whatever else comes to mind, approaching from both the inside and outside of the car, until you manage to find a path from the inside of the underdash area to the small gap at that plug; tape your new speaker cable to whatever you got through the hole and carefully feed it back through the path you found. I cannot overstate how long and tedious this process can be, especially for the first side you try. Allow hours. It is impossible to give a better description of how to do it. The challenges are different on each side of the car but the second will likely go much faster (probably doesn't matter which side you do first). Hint: Use all your senses of sight, touch and sound to assist in locating where the end of your probes are relative to the goal.

7. Use a pliers-type leather punch tool to punch a small hole in the body plug and the lower-end of the flex-duct; Force your new waterproof and protected cable through those small holes and seal at each penetration with silicone RTV.

See attached pic.

In this case the pictured new speaker cable (white) is this product Product Details for PID 4041

Good luck, this project is not for the timid.

 

Wow Centex....that's a lot of detailed info. Thank you. This just popped in my head, and tell me if it's not even possible...but could you mount the crossovers behind the head unit? (was looking at the pics) Is there enough room? Or even run a loop straight down toward the floor, mount the crossovers there and connect that loop back up the head unit wiring? Then you could keep factory wiring running to the A pillar and doors, right? I'm just doing a simple speaker upgrade, mostly use this vehicle for work. (Kicker 40CSS654 a possibility)

 

For readers jumping in late .... all of this discussion relates to the non-Sony 9-speaker system ....

...This just popped in my head, and tell me if it's not even possible...but could you mount the crossovers behind the head unit? (was looking at the pics) Is there enough room?...

Room isn't the issue. At the HU you only have harness for each of the four channels (Front L&R, Rear L&R) ... the harness at that point is not separate for tweeters vs woofers either front or rear. So, while you might fit the xo's there, you will then have to pull wire from that point to each of the separately xo'd speakers. I can't see any advantage in that.

... Or even run a loop straight down toward the floor, mount the crossovers there and connect that loop back up the head unit wiring? Then you could keep factory wiring running to the A pillar and doors, right? I'm just doing a simple speaker upgrade, mostly use this vehicle for work. (Kicker 40CSS654 a possibility)

It is very hard to grab any of the speaker wires at any of the pillars (A- or B-).

Recap of harness routes:
Front Channels
HU > split buried deep behind dash
Split out to tweeter > stays buried in dash to tweeter on each side
Split out to woofer > to lower console C214 > Under front seats > along base of door opening to A-pillar each side

Rear Channels
HU > to lower console C214 > Under front seats to B-pillar each side
Split at woofer connector in the door > up to tweeter in the door

In all cases, the OEM harness is carrying a full-spectrum audio signal all the way to the connector on each speaker frame (harness wiring to ALL woofers and ALL tweeters); nothing is filtered except by the capacitors mounted on each speaker.

With the Kicker 40CSS654 having a single-box xo for each side with both HP and LP outputs to woofer and tweeter, I can see two choices for the front if I were going to try it:

1. Mount the xo's in the lower console area (there's plenty of stash spaces); find the wires out of C214 for the front woofers between C214 and where they dive under the seats; cut those wires, use the C214-side for xo input; use the underseat side for the xo woofer output; run new wires from the xo tweeter output > under seat > under door trim > up to tweeters (insulate and abandon the OEM tweeter wire ends, they'll still be 'hot'). This avoids the dread post 23 procedure.

2. Mount the xo in the door as suggested in the Kicker installation manual and run a new wire out of there up to the tweeter (the dread Post 23 procedure).

Having been all over this car's audio wiring, I'd go with 1 (actually, I'd not use that type of xo for a speaker-only replacement).

For the rear, mount the xo's in the doors exactly as shown in the Kicker installation manual, using the OEM wire feeding the woofer as the xo input.

IMHO any speaker using a single xo box to feed both woofer and tweeter like the Kicker model you cite does not meet your criteria for "...just doing a simple speaker upgrade" for the Escape front. They may well be nice speakers but the installation is inherently not simple. Not worth it, IMHO, if you don't intend to go farther into separate speaker active xo's and/or DSP (and then I'd go with different speakers anyway). There's too many other choices in the price and quality range of those Kickers with easier to use inline passive xo's for this installation. You can use the treble setting on the HU to adjust EQ of the tweeters relative to the woofers.

From post 23 you can see I've gone to the great trouble to essentially re-wire the FE downstream of the HU. That only because I've gone totally nuts and am now running a DSP, 9 discrete amp channels and 3-way active xo speakers in front. Yeah, it sounds great but the install does not pass the "simple" test by a long shot. Short of that degree of audio madness, I'd do all I could to avoid the post 23 procedure.

As always, my opinion is worth exactly what you're paying for it

 

I have been reading through the audio threads and I am considering doing something like what you did @centex I'd offer to buy your used equipment but I'm in Canada and shipping and exchange rate would make it more expensive then just buying new ones!

I do have some questions though.

1. In my 09 Ford Focus, non sync I replaced the door speakers with some MTX speakers I got on sale at Best Buy. The system then sounded a lot WORSE, I lost all the bass and volume. It was clear it could not power them. Are people finding this when they go with something like the Alpine components you suggest? I'd like to avoid the 4 channel amp... BUT I don't want to spend a few hundred dollars on speakers and have it sound worse either.

2. Related to number 1, I wonder if you keep the mid bass factory speakers in the rear or replace with aftermarket midbass speakers and then put the components in the front if you would get decent sound without an amp.. curious on your thoughts? I do prefer matched speakers though.

3. If I go with 2 sets of the Alpine components and disconnect the center I take it I will have very little bass and need a sub? does anyone make one that fits in the cubby hole in the rear? how did you find the one you put under the seat?

The stock system isn't to bad but it does not go loud enough for me, I was really disappointed with the sound quality and lack of volume. I do want to retain the stock head unit though, that's not changing

 

...
1. In my 09 Ford Focus, non sync I replaced the door speakers with some MTX speakers I got on sale at Best Buy. The system then sounded a lot WORSE, I lost all the bass and volume. It was clear it could not power them. Are people finding this when they go with something like the Alpine components you suggest? I'd like to avoid the 4 channel amp... BUT I don't want to spend a few hundred dollars on speakers and have it sound worse either.

Please understand, in this thread and here http://www.fordescape.org/forum/ele...ronics-audio-lighting/30265-2014-se-alpine-edition-non-sony-audio-upgrades.html, I'm not suggesting any specific brand or components, I'm just sharing info about what I did and my impressions about the outcome.

Personal preference plays a huge role in audio gear and what each listener likes/dislikes. Review of this thread http://www.fordescape.org/forum/diy...m/diy-garage/9378-diy-installing-swapping-factory-rear-speakers.html#post604481 especially starting at post 22 gives an indication of that and an example of at least one person who found the coax Alpine 610 speakers lacking for their tastes.

Sometimes buying equipment and then finding it doesn't meet your needs is the nature of audio modification. There's no shortage of such stories in most all of the car audio specialty forums.

...
2. Related to number 1, I wonder if you keep the mid bass factory speakers in the rear or replace with aftermarket midbass speakers and then put the components in the front if you would get decent sound without an amp.. curious on your thoughts? I do prefer matched speakers though.

Really hard to offer meaningful comment, again that personal preference thing. Perhaps the second half of this post will give you some food for thought http://www.fordescape.org/forum/603145-post30.html

...
3. If I go with 2 sets of the Alpine components and disconnect the center I take it I will have very little bass and need a sub? does anyone make one that fits in the cubby hole in the rear? how did you find the one you put under the seat?

Don't mean to be redundant but see my impressions here http://www.fordescape.org/forum/ele...ronics-audio-lighting/30265-2014-se-alpine-edition-non-sony-audio-upgrades.html and in the other posts by folks that have done speaker upgrades without adding a sub. Just depends on what you prefer.

As to the center speaker, IMHO that plays no role relative to the bass output issue as bass is not within the meaningful range of its output. The center speaker does add "more sound" and some folks confuse "more sound" (e.g. 'loudness') with better sound quality; that's a hard distinction to make due to how the human ear works with the mind but with practice and by judging SQ of different components at the same sound level you can learn to make the distinction. OR, maybe you find that 'loud = better' for you and there's your answer !

I've not found a sub that's a 'direct fit' for the cubby in the Non-Sony rear panel. That space is too small for the enclosure of any sub driver I've run across, either sealed or ported design.

...
The stock system isn't to bad but it does not go loud enough for me, I was really disappointed with the sound quality and lack of volume. I do want to retain the stock head unit though, that's not changing

OK, finally some hints in your statements here .... and the clue that maybe you should try to define more exactly what you find lacking to help plan what/how you modify ...

1. Re: "not go loud enough for me" .... IMHO the only cure for that is added amplification AND speaker upgrades to accommodate that added output power. IMHO changing speakers only cannot improve 'loudness' because I don't think there's any aftermarket speaker(s) that are significantly more efficient than the OEM (maybe a match at best). Personally 'loudness' at max volume wasn't an issue for me, I found that the OEM system could be driven to what I considered 'painful' levels (that personal preference thing again).

2. Re: "really disappointed with the sound quality" .... maybe try to more specifically define what that means for YOU. Is it lack of bass, lack of crispness/punch, lack of high frequency clarity, poor imaging/staging, etc, etc ....? Those answers (and budget) can help define your upgrade plan. Some of those shortcomings are improved with speaker-only upgrades, some require added amplification and some require more radical (expensive) steps like adding a DSP.

3. Important - Don't ignore the effect of your Music Source.... IMHO it is a huge mistake to judge the system's "sound quality" (SQ) potential with any source other than a CD in the player or "lossless" format files on USB / SD card media. If you try to judge the 'system sound quality' by listening to Sirius, MPx, iTunes or anything played via Bluetooth you are listening to sources that are compressed or altered and suffer inherently limiting factors affecting SQ. Even if those are your preferred music sources, you can't determine whether your 'problem' is the system or the source using those to judge. You can only 'optimize' the system with the cleanest/best possible source and then what you hear from those other 'compromised' sources will be the best they are able to deliver.

Sorry I can't be more specific but I keep getting back to that personal preference thing .... IMHO it's impossible for anyone to know what will make you happy by exchanging words on an internet forum, that's just the nature of 'audio' ;-)

 

Where did you buy the molex connectors from?

 

^^^ I happen to be near an Altex retail store with a better in-stock selection (less-to-more circuits and extra bare terminals) than listed on their website so I buy there

Waldom Electronics .093" 3 Circuit Male/Female Molex Kit : 1396-PRT

Waldom Electronics .093" 4 Circuit Male/Female Molex Kit : 1490-PRT

Waldom Electronics .093" 6 Circuit Male/Female Molex Kit : 1261PRT

Waldom Electronics .093" 9 Circuit Male/Female Molex Kit : 1292PRT

If you enter the exact search term .093 series molex connector in google you'll find other internet sources. I find the .093" series best for most automotive applications, it accepts terminals for a wide range of wire gauges common to auto audio work and is a convenient size work with.

Note that you really need the crimp-tool made for that size connector to get a good job ... it provides the correct two-step crimp for both the bare conductor strands and the 'grip' for the wire insulation to provide strain relief. A standard crimp tool doesn't roll the ends of the tabs into the 'heart-shaped' fold needed to grab the wires/insulation. Trying to 'flat crimp' with a standard tool or pliers will cause the tabs to break. I use one like this Waldom W-HT-1921:

Hope That Helps

 

Thanks for the reply. So they don't have a wire harness adapter for our model?

 

..... So they don't have a wire harness adapter for our model?

I'm not aware of one but Scosche, Metra and others are always expanding their offerings and I've not looked lately. None of the Escape/Focus/Ford kits I found when I last looked were correct for our non-Sony 9-speaker HU (all were for earlier audio systems).

Do let us know if you find a 'match'.

 

I know this is kind of an old thread but I found a wire that functions as a remote wire in the back of the radio. Mine is a 2013 SEL with 9 speakers. In the C240A connector at pin 2 is a YE-GN wire that is for the Antenna Power from what I can find. It stays on with the normal function of the radio and cuts off a few seconds after the car is locked.

 

That's very cool, thanks for adding to this thread!

From your description it sounds like the antenna power goes 'hot' anytime the ACM is active (from door open through all audio shut-off delays) and that would make sense though I've not put a meter to it to test that for all situations.

I realize that the current-draw for a single added amp/device remote turn-on is usually very low .... if adding multiple devices needing a remote turn-on trigger one might be watchful of this .... not sure what the capacity of that antenna power circuit is (probably pretty low with a 20ga wire all the way to the solid-state antenna) and erratic 'turn-on' can be a baffling to track problem sometimes if the turn-on supply is overloaded ;-)

Can we assume correctly you are now using this to trigger the remote turn-on of an external amp and all is working fine?

 

Universal 1/2 Inch Plastic Depth Ring Adapter/ Spacer for 6.5" Car Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJG80YA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_p59Swb44GE5R4

Will these work if I don't want to cut the stock woofer frame or do I need the 1" thick rings?

Installing Alpine SPS-610c.

 

As indicated by the later pics, the OEM speaker frame is not constant thickness (it is 'angled', thinner at the front than at the back). I don't have the dimensions at hand but IMHO you'll benefit from pulling the door panel to take a look and measure before buying any spacer rings. Using a standard 'parallel face' spacer ring my help bring the front edge of the speaker closer to the door panel but it will necessarily leave a gap at the back edge. Take care to not let your speaker frame actually have 'hard-contact- with the finish panel lest you get undesired vibrations. Having your speaker end-up fully 'in-plane' and as close as possible to the panel grill (with a thin foam seal for the last little gap) is most optimal, and using the gutted OEM speaker facilitates that, but it's not fatal to do otherwise. I do strongly suggest that no matter what, you fill all gaps completely that are between the face of the speaker and the steel door panel and the plastic door finish panel. It is most desirable that the sound waves from the back of the speaker be isolated from the sound waves off the front of the cone to the greatest extent possible, and that can have a very audible effect on how things sound.

So if I wanted to upgrade the center channel on my non-sony system, I can't, is what I am finding. I don't think a 3.5" coaxial 8 ohm speaker exists. Running 4 ohms may draw too much and shorten the amps life and increase the volume of the center speaker beyond the normal level. Any ideas?

My 'first and foremost' suggestion .... Before spending $ on changing the center, do your other speaker upgrades and actually test the 'no center' and 'OEM center' options previously mentioned. Keep an open mind and do realistic careful listening tests with a range of 'your music' at levels you usually use for several days at least with each configuration. Do you really find that center channel speaker adds to your enjoyment or limits the overall sound quality of your system?

If you're driven to stay strictly at 8 ohms but change the center speaker, look at sources such as The Madisound Speaker Store and Shop the Speaker Components Department at Parts Express There's nothing magic about 'popular consumer brands' carried by Crutchfield, etc. and many many super audio competition cars use less popularly know components from the sources I link. There's no sin in using 'home speaker' components in a car when you need their characteristics such as 'oddball' impedance.

You may find more options if you pull the grill and look to see that there's room for a slightly larger speaker with minimal modification to the un-seen plastic support under there.

Research using resistors for impedance matching and an "L-pad" for level tuning of that speaker separate from others.

Yes, there's theoretical risk of overheating the output transistors of that channel with mis-matched impedance. But unless you listen a lot at high levels IMHO that's a minimal risk with 4 Ohm vs 8 Ohm. Of course that opinion won't be worth squat if you do manage to melt that output section of your HU.

 

I've used these before
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
Very nice adapters. Unfortunately the set for my escape have been sitting in a bot for more than a year.

 

here are pic's of the front and rear door

 

Don't see any pics

 

Not sure what the problem was. I think there fixed now.