I'm referring to the '13-'14 Workshop Manual wiring diagrams ...

BJB = Battery Junction Box - the fuse box under the hood

F15 20A in BJB>white&red wire>C219 pin 2>white&red wire>C328 pin 3>white&red wire>Aux Power Point (outlet on top of console at base of shifter)

F17 20A in BJB>red wire>C219 pin 4>red wire>C328 pin 2>red wire>Rear Passenger Power Outlet (back of console - rear seat)

F18 20A in BJB>yellow&red wire>C219 pin 3>yellow&red wire>C328 pin 6>yellow&red wire>Power Outlet inside console bin

C219 = 4-pin connector in passenger footwell under (maybe behind, maybe under the front edge) the glove box (pin 1 is a yellow&green wire unrelated to power outlets)

C328 = 6-pin connector on the right side of the console below the shifter in a cluster of multiple connectors all together (pin 1 is a black&white wire that is the ground for all 3 power outlets; pin 5 is a violet&red wire unrelated to the power outlets; pin 4 is not used.

The individual power outlet grounds (all black&white) are joined at an inline splice before C328; after C328 it terminates at a ground-bolt into the chassis at the base of the passenger-side A-pillar.

Note that the schematics make no mention of a power-outlet related fuse in the BCM (fuse box behind the glove box); what fuse number in that box do you find labeled as related?

My WSM has no "C3007" in it's connector index list ??

FYI all the PP sockets can be removed 'from the outside' using this tool inserted in the slots inside the socket. You might be able to DIY fabricate something similar.

I'd check the ground from the outlets to see if it shows continuity to ground (any bare-metal point on the chassis) as a starting point ... is your problem on the (+)power-side or on the (-)ground-side?

Hope that helps, good luck.

 

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System: Interior & Driver Amenity
Subsystem: Cigar Lighter

For '13 early production that shows a different routing via (C327?) instead of C328 not indicated in my WSM, sorry. Everything else is the same. My WSM shows C327 as a mega-pin connector in the same location / connector cluster as C328 referenced above.

Maybe there's a hint - maybe a reason they moved those outlet circuits (with a total 60A potential) out of C327 to a separate C328 ?

But still no C3007 ??

 

Making progress

I have located the 4 pin connector that comes from the BFB to under the glove box. I still have 12 VDC to GND on all three power outlet pins. Therefore, the problem must be in the next connector located in/under/or around the center console. I will have to investigate the proper procedure to remove those items to gain access to that connector.


PS I tested the power side to chassis GND and still do not have 12vdc, so I am pretty confident, that it is a connector issue not a bad ground


thanks to all how have provided guidance in this matter

 

..... I also disassembled the center console to verify that the power sockets were physically connected. Measured 0 volts at the a 3 connectors.....

I have located the 4 pin connector that comes from the BFB to under the glove box. I still have 12 VDC to GND on all three power outlet pins. Therefore, the problem must be in the next connector located in/under/or around the center console. I will have to investigate the proper procedure to remove those items to gain access to that connector.

PS I tested the power side to chassis GND and still do not have 12vdc, so I am pretty confident, that it is a connector issue not a bad ground

Just for your consideration ....

Regarding the 'cluster of connectors' below the shifter - I've looked at that 'hands-on' in the process of doing my audio mods (completely disassembled the console for 'access') and found it 'buried' in/behind the structural supports for the shifter assembly with virtually no 'harness slack', so abandoned efforts to actually get to those connectors as 'too difficult for my purposes'.

Since you've gotten access to the back of all the power outlets and to the 'hot' connector under the glove box, you might consider simply cutting each (+) outlet power wire at that point and at each outlet, then running 3 new jumpers between those points, bypassing the very difficult to access and 'unknown condition' circuit and connector in-between, tucking the new jumpers under the bottom edge of the console side-panel and fishing them up to each outlet location.

I would do that in a way that truly 'cuts and bypasses' (not a 'parallel tap') both ends of the OEM circuit in-between so that no +12V is fed from either end in the 'suspected problem' run of the circuits.

Might be easier in the long run. Again, just for your consideration.

Good luck.

 

EUREKA --- for the smoking gun

As expected it was the connector residing next to the shifter assembly (Connector C327) was the culprit. Sometime in the past, the connector was jammed into the socket and mangled the camlock handle. Once the adapter was removed and able to fix the wrinkled/broken plastic bits, the plug using the camlock lever allowed successful insertion and locking of the plug into the socket. Tested all 3 ports and all is well with the world.


Thanks to all for their input and expertise