The Ford dealer checked a code and replaced a sensor. Since then the problem has gotten much worse.

Just out of curiousty, did the dealer give you a service receipt with the part number on the ticket?

 

The bill says, "SSM for this concern and the code to replace the CKP Sensor.
Followed the workshop manual and removed and replaced CPS and cleared codes and tested auto start/stop several times in the parking lot".

 

Did they load test the battery?
5 years on the original factory one depending on where you live is just about when I'd expect one to go bad.

 

I have actually had them replace the battery with a new battery within the past 6 months. Thanks for suggestion.

 

What type of driving? Short trips to grocery stores and that sort of thing?? The AS/S in my 2017 doesn't work if that is all we (my wife and i both) do. If we go and drive it for 50-60 miles or so, it will work again for a while. This is on a NEW battery.

 

If one does short trips continuously, the BAT will not have a chance to be recharged correctly. Your longer drives should allow full recharge unless there is a defect in the system(s).

A START/STOP APPLICATION consumes a very large amount of charge for it to operate properly. Just the EPAS (ELECTRIC STEERING) consumes a huge amount. Add your accessories and the BMS (BATTERY MONITORING SYSTEM) just cannot keep up with the demand. It requires more lengthy trips.

And then there is the battery. STOP/START comes with an AGM BATTERY (supposedly). If the battery is replaced, the parts dude slides the new battery across the rear counter for the tech and most likely that battery is not tested to see if it is at full charge. It is installed in the car, the car seems to start OK, he slams the hood and drives it out. You're losing from the start (pun intended).

The dealer battery stock may not be rotated according to build dates. You get an older battery and it is not going to be up to snuff.

A TECH is paid FLAT-RATE, there is no time card other than required for OSHA/LABOR LAW. That is the main problem. They need to push it out and draw the next ticket.

• Auto Start-Stop may not shut your engine off if your vehicle battery is charging, the engine is still warming up, or if you’re using heat or air conditioning.
• 
  
• Your vehicle is equipped with a heavy-duty starter and battery to help compensate for a high number of starts and stops.

SOURCE of ABOVE QUOTE - https://www.ford.com/support/how-to...port/how-tos/more-vehicle-topics/fuel-and-fuel-economy/what-is-auto-start-stop/

 

2018 Escape and a few times the engine would completely die at a light/stop sign (during the auto start/stop) and you actually had to put it in park and restart the engine. The Ford dealer checked a code and replaced a sensor. Since then the problem has gotten much worse.

This is typical of an undercharged battery w/START/STOP. The START/STOP SYSTEM will shutdown if it sees a weak battery so as to HOPEFULLY enable you to make a manual start later.

You are going to have to test/measure true battery voltage and charging output. For some reason, the BAT is not being fully charged (or holing a charge). The BMS has to be reset after BAT replacement or the system will not recognize the new battery. They can check for the RESET with a scan tool. Hopefully they won't reset again it without checking first.

Whether it is just continual short trips (BAT not allowed to fully recharge) or something defective in the charging/starting system, it has to have a full diagnosis. START/STOP takes a huge draw on the BAT.

Is the car under any type of warranty?

 

No the car is not under warranty at this time. Thanks for the advice. It is actually scheduled to go down on Tuesday and I am going to have them check to make sure the BMS was reset when the battery was changed in November. Crossing my fingers, hope it works.

 

... sheesh ...

This has been discussed many times here -

2018 AWD Titanium Start/Stop Issue

The start/stop on my recently purchased 2018 Escape has worked maybe three times during my 7 months ownership. According to the manual the following criteria must be met for it to work: The Auto-Start-Stop button is not pressed (not illuminated). - It is turned on Your vehicle exceeds an...

www.fordescape.org

Scroll down to POST #17 -

On one car it took 24HRS for the START/STOP FEATURE to work correctly.

The secret here is that when a BAT is replaced on these new tech cars, the electrical system must still be energized while changing the battery or modules lose their memory and have to re-learn. This requires a special charger. This is entirely different from BMS, although it is still very important to reset BMS after a new battery install.

This may not be your problem but is an important factor to consider.

This is how it is supposed to work. It is just an intro and does not fully detail, the system You will need a WORKSHOP MANUAL for that -

https://www.ford.com/support/how-to...port/how-tos/more-vehicle-topics/fuel-and-fuel-economy/what-is-auto-start-stop/​

 

This auto start/stop feature is a bunch of crap. There must be a way to permanently disable it without pressing the button on the dash every start cycle. I bought my Escape 3 months ago and the auto s/s feature was not operational at all. I wasn't really certain as to why. I figured because of battery age maybe BMS turned off auto s/s. Yesterday all of a sudden it commences operation for no apparent reason. Coincidently, I had a new battery installed and BMS reset today at the Ford dealership. I was planning on replacing the battery due to the fact that the car still had the original battery.

 

You have quoted the reason s/s began working again....new battery and BMS reset. Once your old battery was not holding full charge your s/s feature would cease to operate even though the car would still start ok and lights etc. would still work.

 

However, they say that Ford wants them to hook a computer up and record it when it happens.

This is a recording device and is used in test drives/ride-alongs to try and capture any hiccups that may occur and not be saved in the PCM.

You might ask if you leave a deposit of some kind if you can take the car with the device hooked up and drive it for a few days to see if it catches anything. These things are expensive and they may not have more than one but it may be worth a try.

 

This auto start/stop feature is a bunch of crap. There must be a way to permanently disable it without pressing the button on the dash every start cycle.

I agree fully. My son-in-law has a JEEP with it and it is a PIA. You keep thinking the car has shut down when starting from a traffic light.

For your consideration -

Autostop Eliminator - Disable The Auto Start Stop Feature

The Autostop Eliminator is an intelligent tech device for your car, truck or SUV that will safely disable auto start-stop feature and remember your preference

www.autostopeliminator.com

 

I agree fully. My son-in-law has a JEEP with it and it is a PIA. You keep thinking the car has shut down when starting from a traffic light.

For your consideration -

Autostop Eliminator - Disable The Auto Start Stop Feature

The Autostop Eliminator is an intelligent tech device for your car, truck or SUV that will safely disable auto start-stop feature and remember your preference

www.autostopeliminator.com

I think I'll order that eliminator. Thanks!

 

OH! I FORGOT ...

Came across a descriptive name for the system on another forum ...

- STOP/DON'T GET ME STARTED -
​

Now that is funny, I don't care who you are ...

 

I normally use Sport mode anyway which disables the stop/start 'feature'.

... hmmpf ...

I did not know that.

 

The following is an earlier post made on this forum I came across while CAROUSING WITH MY BROWSER looking for tech info -

STOP/DON'T GET ME STARTED

​

Found this in the owners manual online:

The system is automatically enabled every time you start your vehicle if the following conditions are met:

The Auto Start|Stop button is not pressed (not illuminated).
Your vehicle exceeds an initial speed of 5 km/h after the vehicle has been initially started.
Your vehicle is stopped.
Your foot is on the brake pedal.
The transmission is in drive (D).
The driver's door is closed.
There is adequate brake vacuum.
The interior compartment has been cooled or warmed to an acceptable level.
The front windshield defroster is off.
The steering wheel is not turned rapidly or is not at a sharp angle.
The vehicle is not on a steep road grade.
The battery is within optimal operating conditions (battery state of charge and temperature in range).
The engine coolant is at operating temperature.
Elevation is below approximately 3,048 m.
Ambient temperature is moderate.

Driving in SPORTS MODE eliminates STOP/START

If START/STOP equipped and the system shows a low state of charge (for whatever reason) it will start shutting off certain features to hopefully ensure the battery has enough reserve to start the car next go-around (hopefully).

 

A possible workaround is to attach a battery tender to the vehicle. You can pick one up for under $50. You will have to plug it in every night (or at least when you aren't driving a significant amount) but this will help to keep your battery topped off. I had to keep my 2010 Escape Hybrid 12V battery on a tender for years, and the 12V batteries were only lasting a few years each, but since my daughter has been driving it every day the past couple of years it is working fine and I just removed the tender cable from the battery. (Note, I never had a stop/don't start issue, I just had a "won't start in the morning" issue)

 

Here is an update from my original post: My wife took her Escape to the Ford dealer again and she shared the potential battery issues that others who commented on my post mentioned. They found a corroded ground wire and fixed it at no charge. So far after about a week she has not had any further issues. Thanks to everyone with your advice and suggestions. Crossing my fingers the problem is resolved as my wife really likes her Escape.

 

I'm really glad that they were able to find the problem. Sometimes those corroded wires are really hard to find as the corrosion can hide under the insulation. I hope this fixes your problem!

 

My wife has a 2018 Escape and a few times the engine would completely die at a light/stop sign (during the auto start/stop) and you actually had to put it in park and restart the engine. The Ford dealer checked a code and replaced a sensor. Since then the problem has gotten much worse. The dealer has been able to recreate it one time (with the new part). However, they say that Ford wants them to hook a computer up and record it when it happens. Unfortunately with minimal driving they have not been able to recreate it. Does anyone have any suggestions about what the issue could be? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I had the same problem. The dealer replaced the CAM sensor, Cam Angle Sensor and the re-start problem has been resolved.