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Thanks invader, I've seen somewhere that the BMS will eventually reset on it's own over time. If I was doing a replacement, I would do the reset. I see that you are in Canada, cold weather and all, has your sister's replacement held up? I'm assuming she didn't get a AGM replacement. If anyone on this thread knows what drives Ford's supply deciscion (besides cost) on the batteries, I'd certainly like to hear it.
It was a warranty replacement with the same as original, small H4 flooded cell battery... It will likely fail again by year's end.
Original battery was replaced at about 2,000 miles last December... 2020 Titanium Hybrid is now at a ridiculously low 3,683 miles after over 16 months of ownership, still on first warranty replacement battery. It read 12.2V today, before I hooked up an Energizer® 4 Amp 9 Step Smart Battery Charger.

BATTERY CHARGERS | Energizer (energizerpower.com)

Amazon.com: Energizer ENC4A ENC4A 4-Amp Battery Charger/Maintainer : Automotive

4A Battery Charger/Maintainer (princessauto.com)
 
At 3224 miles, my vehicle would not start one morning. After several day at the local Ford dealership, to await an appointment date, they determined that the battery (12 volt) was dead. Cleared codes, re-charged the battery without a clue as to why this happened.
Therefore, I am not confident that this will cure the issue for good.
Any thoughts?
If they're anything like the two dealerships I've taken my 2018 Escape Sel to, double check anything they do, before they perform the work if possible. I've had many issues with mine. Starting the day i drove it off the lot, and it only had 4 miles on it. I'm still trying to get to the bottom of everything. I have 20,000 miles on it now. I hope your problem was solved.
 
I don't think the BMS will reset itself over time, it needs to be physically reset as it puts the new battery days in service back to zero.
What does reset itself over time is the new battery 'learning' the technology etc. it is coping with, and that may be what you read somewhere.
The BMS will reset overnight (8hrs I think), but you do have to make a change in the battery control module. I just did mine in Forscan and you need to update the battery type (AGM vs FLA) as well as size/CA.

Interestingly, my 21 had the smaller battery (contrary to what the manual says). More curious, the BdyCM was configured for AGM which is incorrect, though the size/CA was configured correctly.
 
First time I've ever joined an Escape forum in order to login and post a comment. I have been going down this rabbit hole for my wife's 2020 Escape Hybrid SE SPORT for about a year and a half now. Deep sleep is such a pain when the only way you can remote start is by using the app(SE Sport keyfob doesn't have the start button).

March 2021 the battery it came with(10/2019 build date purchased in 01/2020) had been in deep sleep on and off for awhile and finally got tired of it. The dealer replaced the battery because it was deemed a bad battery(drained too much over time). My wife works very close to home and with the pandemic we weren't doing long trips of driving.

Oct 2021 took it back in because it started deep sleep again and they charged the battery and returned it to us. Not even a day later deep sleep returned. Their so called fix to me was bs..."just drive it more". Not a real fix! So after doing a bunch of research I came across numerous threads, and the one that gave me my final decision was from Colorado_Al. I called the dealership up and after being bounced around between service, parts, and service talking with a technician, and many choice words later, they scheduled me to have the 48AGM installed(despite their numerous objections and statements that it could potentially cause damage).Ford does not want to admit blame with this because if they did, they would have to issue a recall and install expensive AGM batteries in thousands of vehicles at their expense. Rather than fighting with Ford any further, we foot the bill for the larger battery that is present in late 2020 production models and current 2021 models.

11/5/2021: Today is the day that they finally installed the battery for us. With how much of a pain it's been, I decided to get a new OBDLink cable since I couldn't find my old one. I'm glad I did. Yes, they did use Forscan to update the BMS battery type to AGM. But no, they didn't update the actual battery options away from factory name. Also I noticed SOC(state of charge) was showing 120(%). Most likely that was due to them having the AGM battery listed but still claiming it was the 45ah battery. I manually decided to change it to 80% when I switched the actual battery name over to the 70ah AGM.

Based on what I have seen in multiple threads, there hasn't been anyone that this didn't fix their issues with deep sleep. But just to be safe, when we go out of town tomorrow, i'm bringing the laptop and obd cable with. I want to thank everyone who's brought up these issues and giving it attention because we were close to just giving up and trading the car in for a gas version.

Moral of the story: Just pay out of pocket for the AGM battery...it'll be less hassle.
 
Yup that's what I changed the battery factory and battery normal over to. I didn't realize SOC was an always changing number (or so that's what I've gathered with research), but it makes sense that the Ford technician didn't complete the job. This is why I have a distrust of dealerships. Well that and overpriced.
 
Yup that's what I changed the battery factory and battery normal over to. I didn't realize SOC was an always changing number (or so that's what I've gathered with research), but it makes sense that the Ford technician didn't complete the job. This is why I have a distrust of dealerships. Well that and overpriced.
Read my post above. I don't think your dealer touched a thing besides resetting the BMS. I did it all myself and the settings on my 2021 were identical to yours. I just changed the battery size and reset the BMS.
 
Read my post above. I don't think your dealer touched a thing besides resetting the BMS. I did it all myself and the settings on my 2021 were identical to yours. I just changed the battery size and reset the BMS.
Yeah they had changed it to AGM in mine but didn't mess with the battery name. Odd how yours came with the smaller one when most have said 2021 is the AGM one.
 
My guess is they continued using the smaller batteries until they were used up. The BMS was configured for the smaller battery so I can only assume it was intentional.
Thought I saw on a thread someone who's late production 2020 had the bigger battery already. If that's the case they really jacked up your build. Glad there are multiple people out there with these battery issues so I'm not looking crazy for hoping the car can remote start when that's a feature we technically paid for 😂.
 
Quick question on this topic. Can someone point me to a good Forscan tutorial so I can make the changes to the BMS once I swap out my battery? Thanks.


2020 Escape Hybrid Titanium AWD
2017 Escape Titanium FWD
 
Quick question on this topic. Can someone point me to a good Forscan tutorial so I can make the changes to the BMS once I swap out my battery? Thanks.


2020 Escape Hybrid Titanium AWD
2017 Escape Titanium FWD
Highly recommend this F150 tutorial:

FORScan Tutorial

This video shows how to remove the infamous double honk, but the process is the same for reconfiguring the battery from pull-downs. DON'T mess with the as-builts and hex code, 99% of the time it's just people making things harder than it needs to be. It's mainly useful for when you're trying to match the configuration on another vehicle, but aren't sure what configurations need to be changed.

 
We had been suffering with the battery issue for quite a while on our 2020 Ford Escape Titanium Hybrid AWD. Either we would get the dreaded "No Key Detected" when we tried to start it, or the battery would be so dead that we would get all sorts of bogus error messages. We were also regularly getting the "System Off to Save Battery - Please turn ignition off or start engine." We took the car to the dealership and they tested the battery. Initially they said the battery was okay, but after a bunch of prodding, they tested it again with a more sophisticated tester which showed it was bad. They replaced the battery and also applied the fixes to the following two SSMs. Since all that was done, we have had no more issues.

SSMs:
SSM 49990 - 2020 Escape/Corsair - No Crank/Discharged Battery - Built On 09-Jun-2020 And Through 16-Nov-2020
Some 2020 Escape/Corsair vehicles built on 09-Jun-2020 and through 16-Nov-2020may exhibit a key off battery drain which results in a no crank/no start condition. The vehicle may also exhibit a yellow electric parking brake (EPB) warning lamp, Park Brake Fault and/or red EPB warning light Illumination to the instrument panel cluster (IPC). This may be due to the ABS module communicating with the IPC resulting in illumination draining the battery. To correct this condition, update the antilock brake module using the latest software of the appropriate Ford diagnostic scan tool. For claiming, use causal part 2C219 and applicable labor operations in Section 10 of the Service Labor Time Standards (SLTS) Manual.

SSM 49574 - 2020 Escape With 2.5L HEV/PHEV - No Crank/Discharged Battery - Built On 09-Jun-2020 And Through 16-Nov-2020
Some 2020 Escape vehicles with 2.5L HEV/PHEV may exhibit a key off battery drain which results in a no crank/no start condition. The vehicle may also exhibit a yellow electric parking brake (EPB) warning lamp, Park Brake Fault and/or red EPB warning light Illumination to the instrument panel cluster (IPC). This may be due to the ABS module communicating with the IPC resulting in illumination draining the battery. To correct this condition, update the antilock brake module using the latest software of the appropriate Ford diagnostic scan tool. For claiming, use causal part 2C219 and applicable labor operations in Section 10 of the Service Labor Time Standards (SLTS) Manual.
 
Well, @FordBlue that is very enlightening as most here with this problem have just replaced the standard battery with the larger AGM version to solve this problem.
It appears a software update is required to correct a battery draining problem in simple terms.
I wonder when Ford became aware of this as they turned many away saying there was nothing wrong with the battery?
 
I had found a youtube thing on replacing the 2020 battery with a larger one. I told the service rep this and he won't respond to my enquiry. The 2020 had this small battery, but the 2021 had the larger battery. Comments on that video said one person had this battery die twice in the first year.
.
 
After having 2 events where my 2020 Titanium Hybrid wouldn't start and having to have my car towed to the dealership, and the dealership had my car for 3 weeks. They couldn't get the prroblem to repeat. I finally convinced them to try the larger battery as desccribed in the youtube video above. I've had the car back for 2 weeks and no problems yet. Get rid of those dinky batteries.
 
Now I read that my Ford Escape is being recalled for possible fires under the hood. This is what I had to put up with for 2 years with my Chevy Bolt. Don't park in the garage, near the garage, near the house. With my Bolt I had to finally park in the street. And then I've read that hybrids are more likely to have their catalytic converters stolen. Why? The ICE in a hybrid runs cooler than other engines, so it requires a larger catalytic converter, more incentive to steal them. So I should park in thee street to make it easier to steal my CC?
 
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