[jpohlman]

What also works just as well is pulling the negative battery cable for ~35 minutes to force the modules to cold boot.
In some cases this is actually your best first step when the cluster or Sync acts strange, it's way easier than digging through fuses.

 

[jpohlman]

No it doesn't, it hasn't been that way in years.
The radio settings are held in the ACM PRAM and get written when you set them, the seat settings are held in the DDM PRAM.

 

[jpohlman]

I learned the 35 minute pull back in 2014 when there was a TSB for the Escape not holding brightness settings after it went into "deep sleep".
As part of the TSB, after flashing the BCM they had you pull the battery cable for that amount of time to prove out that the settings had been written because it takes about 30 minutes for the cluster and APIM electronics to fully discharge.

Now the above refers to replacing the battery, I can tell you that if you replace a weak battery that has had to be jumped multiple times you're almost guaranteed to have to reset the bounce back (at the affected door you run the window all the way up, then pull full up on the switch 3x within a 10 second period, then run it all the way down, then push the down 3x within 10 seconds) and if it was really weak the driver's seat calibration may have to be reset. It will forget how far forward/aft or up it can go (worst I've seen is that if it was full back it wouldn't move forward more than 2"), you have to use IDS for this or a newer version of ForScan. You put the wheel full forward, get out of the seat and then kick it off, the seat will go full forward, full up, full back, full down, full forward, back to mid point and then go full up/down and full forward when it completes.

Your radio presets are written to 727-05/-06/-07/-08 in the ACM, each group is one band AM/FM/HD or DAB/Sirius.