I have a 2014 Ford escape I have been getting "Break Lamp Bulb Fault" on dash. In addition there have been times even when it doesn't come on the car will loose acceleration and cruise control doesn't work. If I pull over and press the brake pedal several times ( pedal seems sponge the gets tight) then everything works fine. So, whether I get the "Brake Lamp Bulb Fault" or not I still have to pump the brakes to fix the issue. It seems to happen when I use the brakes to just slow down a lot. If I have to use brakes to just come to a complete stop it doesn't happen as often. I have checked and replaced all the brake light bulbs with the correct bulbs and have checked the master cylinder fluid level. This isn't safe to continue to drive like this and I'm at a loss on where to begin fix the issue. Anyone have similar problems or ideas on how to fix?
Sunshine Escape
I know ours was coming on like that when the trailer wiring harness had some corrosion on it, used some electronic cleaner and a wire brush on it, and it went away. We constantly get the low tire pressure warning when all of the tires including the spare are fine.
Is this process fixing the bulb fault or spongy feel of the brake paddle and stopping the car? Had your brake been worked on recently? Could there be air in the system?
1. If you have a trailer lights socket, the suggestion that you ensure it is clean and dry is a good one IMO.
2. Your problems relating to warning faults and cruise control operation might be related to the brake pedal position switch located at the top of the brake pedal mount. It has a single contact plunger with two internal circuits that between them actuate brake lights and send signals for things like cruise engage / disengage, allow moving the shifter out of Park, etc. via the BCM>PCM.
It may be that 'pumping' the pedal is jarring something related to that switch causing the intermittent behavior; the slight pedal motion associated with slowing down may not be moving the plunger far enough if the mounting is loose/ broken/ displaced, etc.
I'd inspect it's mounting security, plunger/physical damage, associated connector/wires, and check the switch itself for proper continuity based on plunger position (you'll need the WSM to guide that, we can't post the diagrams here).
I can't quickly find a PN / price but it may be relatively cheap at your local dealer.
3. if all of the above is in order, your BCM might be suffering from 'computer confusion' causing erratic fault warning and cruise behavior. IF that's the case, disconnecting the negative battery cable at the ground post under the hood for ~20 minutes will allow the BCM logic to 'reset' and might cure those issues.
Just thoughts for your consideration, good luck.
2. Your problems relating to warning faults and cruise control operation might be related to the brake pedal position switch located at the top of the brake pedal mount. It has a single contact plunger with two internal circuits that between them actuate brake lights and send signals for things like cruise engage / disengage, allow moving the shifter out of Park, etc. via the BCM>PCM.
It may be that 'pumping' the pedal is jarring something related to that switch causing the intermittent behavior; the slight pedal motion associated with slowing down may not be moving the plunger far enough if the mounting is loose/ broken/ displaced, etc.
I'd inspect it's mounting security, plunger/physical damage, associated connector/wires, and check the switch itself for proper continuity based on plunger position (you'll need the WSM to guide that, we can't post the diagrams here).
I can't quickly find a PN / price but it may be relatively cheap at your local dealer.
3. if all of the above is in order, your BCM might be suffering from 'computer confusion' causing erratic fault warning and cruise behavior. IF that's the case, disconnecting the negative battery cable at the ground post under the hood for ~20 minutes will allow the BCM logic to 'reset' and might cure those issues.
Just thoughts for your consideration, good luck.
That would be a totally coincidental but likely unrelated situation (the Escape uses no hydraulic switches to activate lights or cruise control) - that's the classic symptom of an air bubble or moisture in the hydraulics, thorough brake fluid flushing / bleeding would be my first suggestion, betting that's never been done.
Stepping away from electronics, back to old fashioned mechanicals. A leak between the two brake fluid reservoirs would in the old days, cause the same spongy feel, with feeling the need to pump up the brakes. If you were to just lay foot pressure on the brake pedal, while running, in park of course, you might be able to get the pedal to go all the way down to the floor, yet they will pump right back up. Then it is time to have the master cylinder, all of the brake lines, and parts, especially anything rubber checked.
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