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Well $600 for that is a lot,, what did they charge for the part alone?...I hope you are taking it back,,, If you had low fuel pressure, then the pump in the tank is probably the one causing the problem.. but they should have tested it before ...and should of known better...
Eh, it all depends. The low pressure pump in the tank only delivers fuel to the high pressure pump at around 50 PSI. The fuel rail pressure is driven by the high pressure pump, which is generally the culprit for something like this.


Just found P0087 in the workshop manual, and it references low pressure in the high pressure system. There's a whole diagnostic tree they are supposed to follow before condemning the high pressure pump.
 
Vehicle dying

I have a 2013 Ford Escape SE with 97,468 miles. Following driving my vehicle for a decent amount of time (30 mins or more) my vehicle will occasionally stall and die. It is especially bad if I shut the car off and restart it. I did finally get an error code P0087 so I am thinking the fuel pump needs to be replaced but wanted to see if anyone was having problems.
 
I have a 2013 Ford Escape SE with 97,468 miles. Following driving my vehicle for a decent amount of time (30 mins or more) my vehicle will occasionally stall and die. It is especially bad if I shut the car off and restart it. I did finally get an error code P0087 so I am thinking the fuel pump needs to be replaced but wanted to see if anyone was having problems.
I merged your thread with this existing thread on the same issue. Have a look at the other posts for some possible help.
 
So, $600 dollars later the car still stalls. The fuel pump replacement has not improved the issue... I will be calling the dealership where it was worked at on Monday morning. I have not had something not fixed like this before so not sure how angry to with them, I dont want to drop it off for another $100 diag fee just to have them shrug their shoulders at it.
Vickers,, Did they ever find your stalling issue out, if the fuel pump for the injectors didn't solve it??
 
I have a 2016 2.0 36,000kms. Pulled up to stoplight after 80kms of driving. 3 Celsius outside. Truck shutoff and I did not even notice. Put in park, restarted it and off I went. Not good....
 
2015 Escape Stalls

I have a 2015 Escape Titanium with the 1.6 in it that will consistently stall. I have figured out the exact conditions to make the car stall. It does it once the vehicle is warmed up and after the car has sat in a parking lot for 15-20 minutes. I can start the car up cold and drive it anywhere and its perfect, but after its been parked for a short period as soon as I start moving in drive it will sputter out and die like its running out of gas. After it dies it has an extended crank but has always starts back up. Sometimes after it starts back up it will die again. It also wont do it if it has sat for a couple of hours. It only had a check engine light come on one time and the code was a P0087 which is low fuel rail pressure. I called our local dealer and talked with service manager since I am out of warranty, they suggested changing the fuel rail pressure sensor or the fuel pump module. I first changed the fuel rail pressure sensor, no fix. Then the module, no fix. I have searched this forum and found multiple threads about people having the same issue, but no one has seemed to been able to get it fixed. At this point I am hoping someone has some insight or information. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
 
I have a 2015 Escape Titanium with the 1.6 in it that will consistently stall. I have figured out the exact conditions to make the car stall. It does it once the vehicle is warmed up and after the car has sat in a parking lot for 15-20 minutes. I can start the car up cold and drive it anywhere and its perfect, but after its been parked for a short period as soon as I start moving in drive it will sputter out and die like its running out of gas. After it dies it has an extended crank but has always starts back up. Sometimes after it starts back up it will die again. It also wont do it if it has sat for a couple of hours. It only had a check engine light come on one time and the code was a P0087 which is low fuel rail pressure. I called our local dealer and talked with service manager since I am out of warranty, they suggested changing the fuel rail pressure sensor or the fuel pump module. I first changed the fuel rail pressure sensor, no fix. Then the module, no fix. I have searched this forum and found multiple threads about people having the same issue, but no one has seemed to been able to get it fixed. At this point I am hoping someone has some insight or information. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
I merged your thread with one of the existing threads on engine stalling. Hopefully you will be able to get your issue fixed.
 
I have been experiencing the exact same issue with my 2013 1.6l Escape SE. If you receive any updates or insight from anybody, please let me know. I will do the same if I hear anything. I tried cleaning the MAP and MAF sensors. It seemed to have done the trick for about a week, but the stalling has come back.
 
I had an interesting experience working on a '15 MKC once. Some of you may know this is the Lincoln version of the escape, loaded with more fancy features. I was trying to diagnose a similar issue on a vehicle that was JUST built. Car would not start, and when it did it would run fine until it just shut off an died. You could drive it down the road thinking it was fine then all of a sudden, it would shut off, disabling the vehicle. After messing with this thing for a few days, i found a short in the wiring harness, inside the driver seat. The wires had chaffed through the metal frame of the seat shorting out about 5 wires in that harness. There were CAN wires, power, ground and other circuits in this seat. This was a production seat. Only reason i found this was i happened to plop my butt in the seat hard enough once, to recreate the issue. Unplugged the seat, and everything worked aside from the Airbag light being on from the seat being unplugged. now I'm not saying this is anyone's issue, but things like that are almost impossible to recreate and track down. Dealerships rarely want to spend the time to diagnose issue's because they are on commission based pay. They don't and or wont, spend the time because they cant make money doing that. If it were me, I'd push to get engineering out there to diagnose it.
 
I have a 2015 Escape Titanium with the 1.6 in it that will consistently stall. I have figured out the exact conditions to make the car stall. It does it once the vehicle is warmed up and after the car has sat in a parking lot for 15-20 minutes. I can start the car up cold and drive it anywhere and its perfect, but after its been parked for a short period as soon as I start moving in drive it will sputter out and die like its running out of gas. After it dies it has an extended crank but has always starts back up. Sometimes after it starts back up it will die again. It also wont do it if it has sat for a couple of hours. It only had a check engine light come on one time and the code was a P0087 which is low fuel rail pressure. I called our local dealer and talked with service manager since I am out of warranty, they suggested changing the fuel rail pressure sensor or the fuel pump module. I first changed the fuel rail pressure sensor, no fix. Then the module, no fix. I have searched this forum and found multiple threads about people having the same issue, but no one has seemed to been able to get it fixed. At this point I am hoping someone has some insight or information. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!


By “module” are you referring to the PCM or the high pressure fuel pump?
 
I have a 2015 Escape Titanium with the 1.6 in it that will consistently stall. I have figured out the exact conditions to make the car stall. It does it once the vehicle is warmed up and after the car has sat in a parking lot for 15-20 minutes. I can start the car up cold and drive it anywhere and its perfect, but after its been parked for a short period as soon as I start moving in drive it will sputter out and die like its running out of gas. After it dies it has an extended crank but has always starts back up. Sometimes after it starts back up it will die again. It also wont do it if it has sat for a couple of hours. It only had a check engine light come on one time and the code was a P0087 which is low fuel rail pressure. I called our local dealer and talked with service manager since I am out of warranty, they suggested changing the fuel rail pressure sensor or the fuel pump module. I first changed the fuel rail pressure sensor, no fix. Then the module, no fix. I have searched this forum and found multiple threads about people having the same issue, but no one has seemed to been able to get it fixed. At this point I am hoping someone has some insight or information. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Hi There,


I read your post below and am experiencing the same problem with my Escape. Did you every figure out the problem? If not, does anybody have any suggestions?


Thanks!
 
2013 Ford Escape SE - 1.6L - Warm Start Stalling

I have a 2013 Escape SE with the 1.6 in it that will consistently stall after a warm start.


I have figured out the exact conditions to make the car stall. It does it once the vehicle is warmed up and after the car has sat in a parking lot for 20-25 minutes. I can start the car up cold and drive it anywhere and its perfect, but after its been parked for a short period as soon as I start moving in drive it will sputter out and die like its running out of gas. After it dies it has an extended crank but has always starts back up. Sometimes after it starts back up it will die again. It also wont do it if it has sat for a couple of hours.



The engine light does not illuminate and there are no codes.



I have searched this forum and found multiple threads about people having the same issue, but no one has seemed to been able to get it fixed. At this point I am hoping someone has some insight or information.



Any help would be appreciated!
 
I would try by opening the switch s couple times before giving a start just to try to prime the fuel system like old cars I don't know for sure it will help in anyway though.

Enviado desde mi Pixel XL mediante Tapatalk
 
this is just a thought
I have a 2013 2 liter Titanium AWD
My car was stalling from time to time and many other weird issues
It didn't throw any codes
It ended up my negative battery terminal was very loose and very corroded on the battery post
you can't see the negative terminal on the battery
the easiest way to get to the negative post is to remove the cowl no more than a 15 minute job
make sure the positive and negative posts are clean and tight
If the negative is loose and corroded replace the negative cable,with the most updated part number
Ford calls it "Battery management system" this part number has been updated at least 8 times. there is a sensor on it
 
Does Ford Service still respond here much? Our Ford Escape started exhibiting the random stalling issue. Multiple trips to the shop, a new high pressure fuel pump, low pressure fuel pump and fuel sensor still haven't resolved the issue.
 
Does Ford Service still respond here much? Our Ford Escape started exhibiting the random stalling issue. Multiple trips to the shop, a new high pressure fuel pump, low pressure fuel pump and fuel sensor still haven't resolved the issue.


Ford Service doesn’t monitor this forum anymore. They haven’t for quite a while.
 
Are you or is anyone else familiar with a good method of getting in contact with them?
Phone Ford Customer service. A quick google search will give you the number. You can also search this site for the number
 
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