I don't think you can rev any of them to any degree in Park mode.....normal behaviour to my knowledge.

 

No, like this is bad. Pedal to the floor won’t even go above 1K. And it’s not steady, almost mimics a misfire but it’s not. Should have taken a video before I reset the battery.

 

Ok, that's different. Normally a rev limiter cuts in at around 3,500 to 4,000rpm if you try to rev it in Park or Neutral. Was it behaving this way before your latest issues to your knowledge?

 

fail safe limp mode

 

@wiz043 - not that I know of. Didn’t notice it until the repair was done.
@leonhoganpenske - do you think the ECM could have thought something was wrong from me resetting the engine light multiple times? Why would a battery reset fit it if there was a true issue?

thanks for your thoughts!

 

was the check engine light still on when it wouldn't rev in park? what kind of code reader were you using? some readers don't show the whole story. hard to say for sure remotely, it may have been in a learning mode after the repair and pulling power killed that.

 

No, the check engine light was not on when it was doing that. I have a ELM 327 Bluetooth code reader I got from a friend. Looks real cheap so probably did something weird to make the ECM think there was a problem. Been driving for a few hours now with multiple starts and stops of the engine and still running beautifully.

 

I would speculate this was caused by adaptation - with time, the ECU adapted to not having expected vacuum (this valve should be closed when not energized, failed valve is usually open all the time and so the engine has a lot of air volume attached). Then you changed it, unexpectedly
My 2020 Escape 2.0 Ecoboost also had problems with starting after refuelling - like started at fourth or fifth attempt (you sit and wonder if you're going to leave the station or stay here forever). I also had errors (P0443, P0456, and the Check-Engine-showing P0496) and so was able to match it to the EVAP purge valve.
The check I performed was quite easy. The vacuum goes under the car through a connector under the windshield - left on the picture below.

Taking off red clamp and then pressing a spring allows to release the connector.
If you stick a small finger inside, you can feel the vacuum with engine running (I was doing it on a cold engine in the park mode). After disconnecting the valve electrical connector, this should stop. If the vacuum is still there, the valve is leaking and not functional.
The valve itself sits at front of the engine, and the electrical connector is easily accessible.

Yes, Ford expects us to buy the whole hose assembly, no thanks. The purge valve itself is C1B1-9G866-BA, and it is Bosch "0 280 142 591". This part isn't widely available in Europe (similar Bosch ones with VAG socket are), but it's a little bit better with C1B1-9G866-AA, which is Bosch "0 280 142 517". The AA version seems to be fitted in e.g. some 1.0 Fiestas, so there are used ones available. I preferred new, though didn't find any original one for a reasonable price, so I went for an aftermarket one from here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005993330516.html? (note: read my later posts. it failed after a week. it's better to buy a used one).
I managed to take off the hoses after heating them up. It was not easy and took a lot of pulling (and then pushing), I was ready to fall back to the clamps.
Before doing this it's good to have a few spare rubber orings, diameter 1 cm. I didn't find them when removing hoses (if they still existed, probably flewn off in an unknown direction), and I destroyed some when pushing on the hoses (it literally torn the oring).
After fitting looks like this:

I cleared errors (with the Forscan).
After refuelling the engine started on a touch, as expected.

 

I would speculate this was caused by adaptation - with time, the ECU adapted to not having expected vacuum (this valve should be closed when not energized, failed valve is usually open all the time and so the engine has a lot of air volume attached). Then you changed it, unexpectedly
My 2020 Escape 2.0 Ecoboost also had problems with starting after refuelling - like started at fourth or fifth attempt (you sit and wonder if you're going to leave the station or stay here forever). I also had errors (P0443, P0456, and the Check-Engine-showing P0496) and so was able to match it to the EVAP purge valve.
The check I performed was quite easy. The vacuum goes under the car through a connector under the windshield - left on the picture below.
View attachment 84517

Taking off red clamp and then pressing a spring allows to release the connector.
If you stick a small finger inside, you can feel the vacuum with engine running (I was doing it on a cold engine in the park mode). After disconnecting the valve electrical connector, this should stop. If the vacuum is still there, the valve is leaking and not functional.
The valve itself sits at front of the engine, and the electrical connector is easily accessible.

Yes, Ford expects us to buy the whole hose assembly, no thanks. The purge valve itself is C1B1-9G866-BA, and it is Bosch "0 280 142 591". This part isn't widely available in Europe (similar Bosch ones with VAG socket are), but it's a little bit better with C1B1-9G866-AA, which is Bosch "0 280 142 517". The AA version seems to be fitted in e.g. some 1.0 Fiestas, so there are used ones available. I preferred new, though didn't find any original one for a reasonable price, so I went for an aftermarket one from here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005993330516.html?
I managed to take off the hoses after heating them up. It was not easy and took a lot of pulling (and then pushing), I was ready to fall back to the clamps.
Before doing this it's good to have a few spare rubber orings, diameter 1 cm. I didn't find them when removing hoses (if they still existed, probably flewn off in an unknown direction), and I destroyed some when pushing on the hoses (it literally torn the oring).
After fitting looks like this:
View attachment 84518

I cleared errors (with the Forscan).
After refuelling the engine started on a touch, as expected.

Do you know the part number for the entire assembly? I don’t mind replacing all of it but I also dont want to order it from the dealership for several hundred. If I can get the part number I can try and find it somewhere cheaper

 

MOTORCRAFT CX2456 (C1BZ9C915A) Bosch C1B1-9G866-AA Vapor Canister Solenoid Valve

2020 FORD ESCAPE 2.0L L4 Turbocharged Vapor Canister Purge Valve / Solenoid | RockAuto

C1BZ-9C915-A - Purge Control Valve 2014-2023 Ford | Ford Parts Direct (oemfordpartsdirect.com)

 

And C1B1-9G866-AA with shipping to Europe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076BL6VZ7/
Newer C1B1-9G866-BA on Ebay: C1B19G866BA Fuel Evaporation Purge Valve For Ford Fiesta Focus 1.0L Turbocharge | eBay

 

My replacement EVAP from aliexpress has failed after a week or two (I've read someone's similar experience with them). I have cleaned the original one, got it in the working condition again, and fitted it back in my Escape. I hope it lasts...

 

Didn't last a day... I bought a used one (C1B19G866AA, from a low mileage Fiesta, they say) and replaced again. We'll see how long this lasts.

 

any update on the used one?