I have noticed while accelerating from a stop while turning, you can feel a shudder from the rear. If you are sitting in the rear seats you can hear a grumbling noise.

START HERE - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10115953-9999.pdf

 

Hmm, so I'm a bit fuzzy on this. Per the link, if I go to a Ford parts website, enter my VIN and search for a part number of 4A232, if nothing comes up I am not affected?

 

Is the Rear Drive Unit different than the "Axle Assembly Rear (Differential)?"

Same thing, different nomenclature.

The CDP (DEALER CATALOG) also has a system named DOES II (or did) that should give the build info of the car (from the VIN) but a lot of times it is not complete. That ID TAG NO will also allow you to change over to a HOLLANDERS PN if you have to go salvage or possibly find one NOS.

There are clutch discs inside of the ATC (ACTIVE TORQUE COUPLING) UNIT (front section of the RDU) that will cause that shudder. But remember, it has not been properly diagnosed yet,

 

Same thing, different nomenclature.

The CDP (DEALER CATALOG) also has a system named DOES II (or did) that should give the build info of the car (from the VIN) but a lot of times it is not complete. That ID TAG NO will also allow you to change over to a HOLLANDERS PN if you have to go salvage or possibly find one NOS.

There are clutch discs inside of the ATC UNIT (front section of the RDU) that will cause that shudder. But remember, it has not been properly diagnosed yet,

So, you stated that an RDU is not listed for your VIN. What does that mean if you ever needed to replace it?

Also, it sounds a lot like what my issue is. That TSB fits the situation and noise spot on.

If it's the RDU, the only choice is replacement, correct?

Does the Borg Warner unit make the noise and not the Sterling unit or vice versa?

Thank you!

 

What do you mean by "CRS"?

I may try to put a service microphone on it and verify it.

Where does that actual repair part number (4A232) get installed?

 

What do you mean by "CRS"?

CAN'T REMEMBER SHIAT. I have a bad case of it as I am a seasoned citizen.

Where does that actual repair part number (4A232) get installed?[/QUOTE]

On the front of the RDU ASSY will be a metal cover. It is within that cover.

No.2 in the ILL -

 

I could not find any instructions online regarding installing it (4A232). It does look like it comes with some documentation in all the images I have found of the part.

The procedure will be found in the 2015/ WORKSHOP MANUAL.

You can also access the complete WSM series on your computer for a very reasonable 72HR ACCESS RATE.

 

Well, I ordered the viscous coupling (4A232) and got a hold of the instructions. If the male splines on the diff end are damaged, it will be a no-go and I will (try to) return the viscous coupling. Per the instructions, it can be done wile the RDU is installed and it does not have to be lowered. We shall see.

 

I had a similar problem with my 2018 Escape - while accelerating I would hear a shutter and when I turn I would hear the same shutter. It was primarily on the rear driver side. I turned out to be a defective rear shock. My Ford Dealer replaced that shock and that corrected the problem. It happened around 21,000 miles and still under warranty.

 

Now that's interesting. Did they say if the shock itself was defective or a shock mount?

 

I have the same issue on my 2015 Escape Titanium AWD 2.0L.

I was hoping that it was the viscous coupling, as it s cheaper and a little easier to replace. I had to lower and completely remove the whole rear assembly from the car. You'll have to do this too if if it's the same as mine, as you cannot get the outer cover off because you can't access the bolts for it.

I got mine down, pulled off the viscous coupling outer housing and found what I didn't want to see. The differential splined shaft and the viscous coupling splines were rusted and worn. The noise was the splines grinding.

I had to order a whole new RDU (Rear Drive Unit or differential). I didn't order the viscous coupling ahead of time, which I could have gotten in a day, just because of my fear of the splines being bad.

The RDU was back ordered and and very hard to get. There must be a lot of them being replaced. The list cost on the whole unit is about $2100. In fact, my parts man at Ford said that two different dealers called him when they saw mine arrived, trying to buy it from him. I special ordered mine on 4/21/2023.

Mine luckily just came in yesterday, 5/3/2023 and I have started the installation process yesterday evening. The first thing I had to do was remove the mounting brackets from the old RDU. You will break your T-50 Torx socket bit or damage the bolts if you don't heat the differential bosses where the bolts go in with a acetylene torch before trying to remove the (10) T-50 Torx bolts for the four mounting brackets. They used a lot of Loctite on these fine threaded bolts that screw into the aluminum housing, which makes it even worse.

So far I just got the four mounting brackets off the old RDU.

I will resume the install today when I get up. It's currently 1:00 AM now on 5/4/2023.

 

You will break your T-50 Torx socket bit or damage the bolts if you don't heat the differential bosses where the bolts go in with a acetylene torch before trying to remove the (10) T-50 Torx bolts for the four mounting brackets. They used a lot of Loctite on these fine threaded bolts that screw into the aluminum housing, which makes it even worse.

Are you sure they're T-50, and not TP-50?

Torx vs Torx Plus: Differences Explained Visually

How are Torx and Torx plus screws different?

mellowpine.com

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Here are some pictures.

 

Here are some pictures.

...whoa ...

You're working on the floor? How hard was it to drop the X-MBR?

Please post photos as you go.

THANX! for the contribution.

 

Let me throw this into the thread as it may help someone down the line -

AWD - WHINE AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS - REAR DRIVE UNIT TSB 14-0182

14-0182 Ford Technical Service Bulletin

14-0182 Ford Technical Service Bulletin

www.tsbsearch.com

​

 

THANX! for that ...

 

It would be difficult to arrive at torque specs with the wrong bit style.

 

Well, everything is torqued to specs and on the road.

 

The post was not directed at you personally.

It is just a reminder to others that can find TORX-PLUS sockets that they are needed to arrive at correct torque specs.

 

 

hi!! finally was the clutch pack?? mine does a similar noise...only when turning
there is something a could check to verify the clutch pack?? i saw a connector down there..for what is that? thanks

 

mine does a similar noise...only when turning

Exactly what model is yours? There may be a TSB about this.