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I just joined the forum and own a 2018 Escape with the 2.5 liter engine. Also, I just bought a 2021 Ecosport with the 1.0 liter (3 cylinder) ecoboost. I did some research before buying the 1.0 and could not find a similar problem in the forums (Ecosport, Fiesta, and Focus) with coolant leaking into the cylinders. The 1.0 is used in the Ecosport, Fiesta and Focus. The 1.0 is an open deck design and has the slits between cylinders just like the 1.5. However, the big difference between the 1.0 and the other Ford small ecoboost engines (1.5, 1.6, and 2.0) is that the 1.0 has a cast iron block. The cast iron block may be able to withstand the pressures of a turbocharged engine better than the aluminum blocks found in the 1.5, 1.6, and 2.0. Perhaps, Ford should use cast iron blocks in all their small ecoboost engines.
Interesting point. I was not aware of the materials difference. From my very old metallurgy classes, you could be on to something.
 
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I'm new here.
Finally, after great suffering, the cause of the lack of coolant in my car was diagnosed, as the liquid was evaporating in the explosion chamber and I was obligated to buy a block in its new version, as the channel between the cylinders was closed and it was compensated with a hole in the price of the block 3700$ Made in UK
Will I trust this update?
Let's see your experiences with the new block (ds7g-6011-jb)
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I have a 2018 1.5L Ecoboost with 6F35 (C-Max). Half of the coolant tank is empty every ~20,000 miles. The water pump was replaced but it didn't help. I don't have the classic symptoms of engine damage, just loss of cooling water. Mostly after driving on the freeway. Oddly enough, the loss is significantly greater in winter. Endoscopy and CO2 test (exhaust gases in the cooling system) showed nothing to worry about.

The car has over 60,000miles and drives but is losing coolant. Why is the water loss higher in winter and after driving on the motorway? Do I have engine damage? What can I do? Thank you!

I have more questions to the automatic transmission and it's noises an behaviors, but that's another topic.
 
The water pump was replaced but it didn't help. I don't have the classic symptoms of engine damage, just loss of cooling water. Mostly after driving on the freeway. Oddly enough, the loss is significantly greater in winter. Endoscopy and CO2 test (exhaust gases in the cooling system) showed nothing to worry about.
Winter could be worse as the engine is metal- it would shrink and expand more going from extreme cold weather and then getting up to operating temperature. If your coolant is disappearing it's most likely going into a cylinder- if you can't find any external leaks (and going by other people's experiences.)

Has your coolant system been pressure tested?
 
That's exactly what I think. Because of the cold, aluminum works harder and the cylinder bridges are very thin. That's where these microcracks are.

A pressure test of the cooling system was done several times, I forgot to mention that, sorry. The dealer could not find any loss.

I've heard that the intercooler tends to leak, but checking that is very time-consuming and the dealer doesn't want to do that. The car is still under warranty, but I'm very worried. The signs are not good.
 
Do you any white smoke out the tail pipe??..You say in winter with the heat on I assume..Could the heater core or connectors be leaking slightly and you dont detect the coolant smell??
 
I don't have any white smoke from the exhaust, nor does the engine run rough when it's cold - so no classic symptoms apart from the strange loss of cooling water.

I can't detect any coolant smell in winter. Basically, I also lose coolant in summer, but mostly after a longer drive on the motorway. The workshop checked all hoses several times and said: If there were a leak anywhere in the hoses, a white crust would be visible, but is is not.

I also lose coolant in the summer, I would like to say that. How can I check if it's the heat exchanger? Just turn on the heater in summer?
 
Sure you can put the heat on in summer, but shouldnt be any different than winter.You mentioned intercooler, but isn't that just air from the turbo to the throttle body, no coolant?? There is a test for head gasket leak you can buy, think on Amazon, Scotty shows that a lot, you put a tube with a chemical in it and connect to the reservoir tank and watch for color change at idle...How about the reservoir tank itself with a tiny leak???
 
The intercooler carries water, i.e. it is water-cooled. It is known that the 1.5L Ecoboost can also leak there.

I have to say that my water reservoir tank was half empty at not even have 15,000miles on the odometer. The water pump was replaced, but that didn't help.

The cylinder head gasket test was done, there were no exhaust gases in the cooling system or cooling water tank. Mechanic said the microcracks can only appear at higher engine temperatures and then close again. They are so small that you can only get a very small amount of cooling water through them. He agreed with me that my engine can be affected, but the problem is, that they can't replace the engine, because they have not enough evidence. Best thing is to drive the water reservoir tank empty I think.
 
The intercooler carries water, i.e. it is water-cooled. It is known that the 1.5L Ecoboost can also leak there.

I have to say that my water reservoir tank was half empty at not even have 15,000miles on the odometer. The water pump was replaced, but that didn't help.

The cylinder head gasket test was done, there were no exhaust gases in the cooling system or cooling water tank. Mechanic said the microcracks can only appear at higher engine temperatures and then close again. They are so small that you can only get a very small amount of cooling water through them. He agreed with me that my engine can be affected, but the problem is, that they can't replace the engine, because they have not enough evidence. Best thing is to drive the water reservoir tank empty I think.
If I was you I would buy that test kit,,Harbor freight has one too, just to see if it shows up with you, so you can show the dealer..."Hey, why would I get this reading if it wasn't true"??... Intercooler is air only from turbo to throttle body...Are you thinking the radiator??
 
Maybe it would be a good idea to have another CO² test done at another workshop - I'll think about it, thanks!

The intercooler is water-cooled. It wasn't like that in the old 1.6L Ecoboost, but definitely is in the 1.5L.

The 1.5L engine has several design flaws. For example, oil collects in the intake manifold, which is why the oil consumption in these engines is higher.
 
Maybe it would be a good idea to have another CO² test done at another workshop - I'll think about it, thanks!

The intercooler is water-cooled. It wasn't like that in the old 1.6L Ecoboost, but definitely is in the 1.5L.

The 1.5L engine has several design flaws. For example, oil collects in the intake manifold, which is why the oil consumption in these engines is higher.
Yes, your correct about the 1.5 having a water cooled intercooler. Sorry about that....My 2.0 is air cooled..Can't figure what they were thinking in that design...It's built into the engine block??
 
That's exactly what I think. Because of the cold, aluminum works harder and the cylinder bridges are very thin. That's where these microcracks are.

A pressure test of the cooling system was done several times, I forgot to mention that, sorry. The dealer could not find any loss.

I've heard that the intercooler tends to leak, but checking that is very time-consuming and the dealer doesn't want to do that. The car is still under warranty, but I'm very worried. The signs are not good.
Well since oil does flow around the intercooler, if it was leaking there you would have coolant in your motor oil and see a rise on the dip stick, and make the oil look milky..So that probably would'nt be your cause..
 
I still have ~25,000miles guarantee. After that, there is the option of an extended warranty, but you have to pay for it yourself.

The cold start CO2 test idea isn't bad, thanks!

I don't know if it's possible to drive on the highway with the CO² test device. The car shakes while driving. I will ask my dealer
 
I still have ~25,000miles guarantee. After that, there is the option of an extended warranty, but you have to pay for it yourself.

The cold start CO2 test idea isn't bad, thanks!

I don't know if it's possible to drive on the highway with the CO² test device. The car shakes while driving. I will ask my dealer
You don't drive with the test , just at idle..After a highway run, you'll have to let her cool down enough so its safe to remove the reservoir cap, but the engine will still be hot from the run....
 
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