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Me, too; wi-fi and auto updates on since the day after purchase, 1/18/2020, with no issues. It's gone to sleep and awoken without issue.

However, mobile hot spot has never been activated.
Mobile hot spot was active with the new car plan - 3 months free to try to get you hooked. :)

I couldn't see the need for it with a decent phone plan, though it was reasonable at $15mo. 3 days without driving now and the battery is holding up fine.
 
2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Titanium, owned 4 months, 5000 miles. 2 days after last drive, enter car, no lights, chimes, won't start. Connected a portable battery charger, doesn't draw down charger % level, same issue (never a problem on other cars I have jump started with it). Hooked up a trickle charger, light says it is charged upon hookup, let charge overnight, still no lights come on, no dash display. Finally, I followed instructions in the manual for hybrid, jump started from my truck. Checked all the displays to see if there was a battery level indicator nothing. All my presets were intact, clock is right, etc. Next day, go in, dash comes on, but doesn't recognize same fob that was in my pocket the day before. Tried with the second fob, not recognized. After a 3rd try dash displays no lights again. Called Ford Dealer, they said I could bring car in next week, 7 days, no loaner car to give me. They suspect that the car sat on the lot too long before being sold to me. That's it. We'll see. Tempted to jump it again and have O'Reilly's check it out. Either way, need Ford dealership to troubleshoot, replace the battery if necessary under warranty. I definitely don't want to get stranded somewhere, so I guess I'll just have to wait.
 
Your 12V battery is kept charged with current from your Hybrid battery power only... You may well consider upgrading your 12V battery if your Ford dealer won't replace it on warranty.



"Decided to quit screwing around with the Ford tiny battery and took your advice. I bought a H6 (group 48) AGM battery. You are right it exactly fits the space in the trunk where the original battery was mounted. Once I was in there I set up a parasitic test to see if there were any large current draws. My amp meter could only go down to 100 mA where it would read 0.01, so I suspect the draw is lower. Anyway, I am hoping the larger battery takes care of the strange behaviors I have been seeing. I'll post how it goes over time."

Blue Ox for 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid - Page 6 - iRV2 Forums

12V battery may also be maintained with an automatic charger connected to the Jump Start connectors... 12V battery actually sits in the trunk underneath spare tire.

JUMP STARTING THE VEHICLE - HYBRID ELECTRIC VEHICLE (HEV)/PLUG-IN HYBRID ELECTRIC VEHICLE (PHEV)

Your vehicle has a 12-volt battery that has two prongs accessible from under the hood. Your vehicle can be jumped the same way conventional vehicles can by using these prongs.
View attachment 78460
A - Positive prong (+). Pull the red plastic cap backward.

B - Negative prong (-).

Hi can you please tell me what exact brand/model you got? when I look up that battery it says it doesn't fit my vehicle
 
At 3224 miles, my vehicle would not start one morning. After several day at the local Ford dealership, to await an appointment date, they determined that the battery (12 volt) was dead. Cleared codes, re-charged the battery without a clue as to why this happened.
Therefore, I am not confident that this will cure the issue for good.
Any thoughts?
How long since you had driven the vehicle? For how many miles. What engine? Do you have S/S? Do you have any non oem items connected? You also might check the 3G board for similar posts.
I just got my vehicle back 2/17/21. Died twice and we had to jump start vehicle each time. A new service message came out regarding the ABS module. It needed to be reprogrammed. The SSM number is 49574 if your dealership has not received the information yet.
 
2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Titanium, owned 4 months, 5000 miles. 2 days after last drive, enter car, no lights, chimes, won't start. Connected a portable battery charger, doesn't draw down charger % level, same issue (never a problem on other cars I have jump started with it). Hooked up a trickle charger, light says it is charged upon hookup, let charge overnight, still no lights come on, no dash display. Finally, I followed instructions in the manual for hybrid, jump started from my truck. Checked all the displays to see if there was a battery level indicator nothing. All my presets were intact, clock is right, etc. Next day, go in, dash comes on, but doesn't recognize same fob that was in my pocket the day before. Tried with the second fob, not recognized. After a 3rd try dash displays no lights again. Called Ford Dealer, they said I could bring car in next week, 7 days, no loaner car to give me. They suspect that the car sat on the lot too long before being sold to me. That's it. We'll see. Tempted to jump it again and have O'Reilly's check it out. Either way, need Ford dealership to troubleshoot, replace the battery if necessary under warranty. I definitely don't want to get stranded somewhere, so I guess I'll just have to wait.
Just posted an update about about my 2020 Escape Hybrid Titanium. Same issues with dead battery. A new SSM with number 49574, came out and the problem is a faulty module that they can easily reprogram at the dealership.
 
I took my Hybrid in for the rear camera recall and mentioned the battery issue and messages I was seeing. They tested the battery and replaced it stating that the "Load Test (Failed)" and the battery fault codes were 4U0 5J51, F60CM. Hoping this will solve it, but I have been reading in this forum about others seeing parasitic draw on the battery while engine off. Not sure the battery replacement will solve my issues in the long term. Still wondering how a year old car with 10,000KM on it needs a battery replacement so soon. But I will report back if the problem occurs again.
 
I took my Hybrid in for the rear camera recall and mentioned the battery issue and messages I was seeing. They tested the battery and replaced it stating that the "Load Test (Failed)" and the battery fault codes were 4U0 5J51, F60CM. Hoping this will solve it, but I have been reading in this forum about others seeing parasitic draw on the battery while engine off. Not sure the battery replacement will solve my issues in the long term. Still wondering how a year old car with 10,000KM on it needs a battery replacement so soon. But I will report back if the problem occurs again.
I moved your post to this thread. The thread you had posted in had absolutely nothing to do with this battery issue.
 
I took my Hybrid in for the rear camera recall and mentioned the battery issue and messages I was seeing. They tested the battery and replaced it stating that the "Load Test (Failed)" and the battery fault codes were 4U0 5J51, F60CM. Hoping this will solve it, but I have been reading in this forum about others seeing parasitic draw on the battery while engine off. Not sure the battery replacement will solve my issues in the long term. Still wondering how a year old car with 10,000KM on it needs a battery replacement so soon. But I will report back if the problem occurs again.
If we are talking about 12 volt battery, not unheard of to have a bad one out of starting gate. Less likely is that car sat on lot a long time without dealer charging it or letting it go too low before they did.
 
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I am posting this for a friend who has no access to this forum. Him and his wife have a 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Titanium that often would not start do to battery issues. What follows is his research and solution. He asks that I post this in case it might help someone else.
---------------------------------

Solution to our battery problem - 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Titanium.
Our new 2020 Escape Hybrid would frequently be unable to start. The dealer could not figure it out. We discovered, through trial and error and research, what was causing the problem and developed solutions to monitor and prevent it. We are sharing our story here in hopes it might assist others who may have had similar issues. This worked for us but there is no guarantee it will work for you, so you assume responsibility of any damage or issues if you attempt this.

As everyone probably knows, the vehicle has two batteries. The main battery which moves the car, and a smaller battery that starts the car and powers the computer system, lights, dashboard, radio, accessories, etc.

The small battery has been the problem with our car.

The first thing we did was to find a way to measure the voltage of the small battery. We purchased a Car USB Charger Multi Port Voltmeter found easily on Amazon.

We plugged it into one of the power ports on the dash, (formerly known as the cigarette lighter). It has two USB slots so that can be used to charge your phone or tablet, but what we wanted was the voltmeter.

We discovered that if we enter the car in the morning and don’t do anything, not touch the brake pedal, not start the car, just sit there and turn on the radio, we would get a reading on the voltmeter from the small battery. If the small battery was below 11.6 volts it would not be able to start the car. So, any reading above that was good. But, if the small battery had less than 11.6 volts no reading would display on the voltmeter, the radio would not turn on and instead the car’s screen would display the message, ““System off to save battery. Please turn ignition off or start engine.”

Also, after driving the car and turning the engine off the voltmeter would briefly display the voltage of the small battery. This can be misleading though, as it really is a surface charge and in reality the charge will drop rapidly.

So, we could measure the voltage of the small battery and in doing so we discovered two factors that contributed to draining the charge of the small battery:

1. The small battery is charged by driving the car on medium to long trips. Short trips, say only a few miles, won’t charge it. We often drove it only twice a day for ten minutes or less. Thus, we were not charging the small battery.

2 When you first open the car and sit inside without starting the engine, everything is being powered by the small battery. The computer system, lights, dashboard, radio, accessories, etc.

If you sit there for several minutes, you are draining the small battery. This happened with us a few times, so the small battery was weakened and our short ten minute drive was not sufficient to charge it. Over several days, the small battery became so weak it would not be able to start the car.

Our solution:
1. Purchase the dashboard voltmeter to monitor the charge of the small battery.

2. Upon entering the vehicle, if we were not prepared to start the car and drive off immediately, we would switch the car from the small battery to the main battery. To do this, without touching the brake pedal, push the start/stop button. That will automatically transfer everything to the main battery. You can sit there using the main battery for some time.

3. Of course, incorporating longer drives into our driving routine kept the small battery charged too.

Since we implemented these changes we have not had difficulty with the car.

Hope this helps someone else.
H.W. Arnold
 
I am posting this for a friend who has no access to this forum. Him and his wife have a 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Titanium that often would not start do to battery issues. What follows is his research and solution. He asks that I post this in case it might help someone else.
---------------------------------

Solution to our battery problem - 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Titanium.
Our new 2020 Escape Hybrid would frequently be unable to start. The dealer could not figure it out. We discovered, through trial and error and research, what was causing the problem and developed solutions to monitor and prevent it. We are sharing our story here in hopes it might assist others who may have had similar issues. This worked for us but there is no guarantee it will work for you, so you assume responsibility of any damage or issues if you attempt this.

As everyone probably knows, the vehicle has two batteries. The main battery which moves the car, and a smaller battery that starts the car and powers the computer system, lights, dashboard, radio, accessories, etc.

The small battery has been the problem with our car.

The first thing we did was to find a way to measure the voltage of the small battery. We purchased a Car USB Charger Multi Port Voltmeter found easily on Amazon.

We plugged it into one of the power ports on the dash, (formerly known as the cigarette lighter). It has two USB slots so that can be used to charge your phone or tablet, but what we wanted was the voltmeter.

We discovered that if we enter the car in the morning and don’t do anything, not touch the brake pedal, not start the car, just sit there and turn on the radio, we would get a reading on the voltmeter from the small battery. If the small battery was below 11.6 volts it would not be able to start the car. So, any reading above that was good. But, if the small battery had less than 11.6 volts no reading would display on the voltmeter, the radio would not turn on and instead the car’s screen would display the message, ““System off to save battery. Please turn ignition off or start engine.”

Also, after driving the car and turning the engine off the voltmeter would briefly display the voltage of the small battery. This can be misleading though, as it really is a surface charge and in reality the charge will drop rapidly.

So, we could measure the voltage of the small battery and in doing so we discovered two factors that contributed to draining the charge of the small battery:

1. The small battery is charged by driving the car on medium to long trips. Short trips, say only a few miles, won’t charge it. We often drove it only twice a day for ten minutes or less. Thus, we were not charging the small battery.

2 When you first open the car and sit inside without starting the engine, everything is being powered by the small battery. The computer system, lights, dashboard, radio, accessories, etc.

If you sit there for several minutes, you are draining the small battery. This happened with us a few times, so the small battery was weakened and our short ten minute drive was not sufficient to charge it. Over several days, the small battery became so weak it would not be able to start the car.

Our solution:
1. Purchase the dashboard voltmeter to monitor the charge of the small battery.

2. Upon entering the vehicle, if we were not prepared to start the car and drive off immediately, we would switch the car from the small battery to the main battery. To do this, without touching the brake pedal, push the start/stop button. That will automatically transfer everything to the main battery. You can sit there using the main battery for some time.

3. Of course, incorporating longer drives into our driving routine kept the small battery charged too.

Since we implemented these changes we have not had difficulty with the car.

Hope this helps someone else.
H.W. Arnold
I merged your thread to the existing thread on this issue.
 
I have the same issue, I rent the Titanium hybrid 2.5 liter 2020 for 48 months since august 2020. After 5000 km, no battery, Ford said battery was dead. Today, 3 weeks after having a new battery, dead again... no electricity at all in the car
 
1. The small battery is charged by driving the car on medium to long trips. Short trips, say only a few miles, won’t charge it. We often drove it only twice a day for ten minutes or less. Thus, we were not charging the small battery.
Is it not charging on short trips, but just not enough to compensate for any discharge which results in a lower state of charge?
 
At 3224 miles, my vehicle would not start one morning. After several day at the local Ford dealership, to await an appointment date, they determined that the battery (12 volt) was dead. Cleared codes, re-charged the battery without a clue as to why this happened.
Therefore, I am not confident that this will cure the issue for good.
Any thoughts?
This has happened to me twice now. To say I’m mad would be an understatement.
 
This has happened to me twice now. To say I’m mad would be an understatement.
You may consider Lancero's solution: 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid - replace 12 volt battery with larger Group 48 AGM | Page 2 | 2013+ Ford Escape Forum

I decided to test the AGM battery after four full days of the Escape sitting undriven (a few weeks after install). It was 100%, according to my Schumacher. With the OEM battery I'd get daily decline and diminishing returns on driving recharge. Sitting four days would've likely resulted in sub-50% and/or "deep sleep".

Unlike the flooded battery, AGM charges faster, lasts longer, and can be deep cycled + this battery has twice the RC.

Just like the subwoofer rattle, I was not happy about having to do this (and having to pay for it), but not having to waste my time, and battle with utterly inept Ford service was worth the price. The dealership had essentially waved the white flag saying they could find nothing wrong. Well, Ford using a tiny flooded "starting" battery as a modern hybrid aux battery was the problem on mine.

I may even be willing to use the 12v power point in the back when we go camping this weekend, instead of worrying if it's sleeping again.
 
More specifically: do you have the 2.5 hybrid, the 1.5 liter ecoboost, or the 2.0 ecoboost engine. I need that information in order to give you a best guess. Are the trips you make almost daily long or short? The 3G section on this board is in the main menu. If you have either of the ecoboost engines, chances are your issue is already addressed by multiple posts and answers.
I have a 2020 2.5 hybrid with 7k miles - exact same thing happened twice in 2 days - left in garage while at work and completely dead. Taking it to the shop on Monday
 
Depending on build date it could be this.

(SSM 49574 - 2020 Escape With 2.5L HEV/PHEV - No Crank/Discharged Battery - Built On 09-Jun-2020 And Through 16-Nov-2020)


Eric B
2017 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0
2020 Ford Escape Titanium Hybrid
 

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Just happened to me. I bought 2020 titanium Hybrid by order (did not sit on lot ever) in november 2020.
Car has 5000 or so miles, 6 months old, driving every day past week 50 to 100 highway miles. Parked as usual, turned off (no load beeps as I exit to say car was on), doors windows closed, took key out. In morning 12 volt battery dead. Got jump start, was able to drive 20 miles, park turn car off, restart and drive home. There is clearly an issue with this model car. See cargurus dot com/Cars/Discussion-t86100_ds1139425 car gurus multiple posts for dead battery on 2020 escape hybrid. Anyway pretty upset to say the least a new car dies for no reason with no warning.
 
I've had this happen once as well. Got my dealer to flash the ABS module with the updated firmware. Hopefully that fixes it up. I got the noisy cold start rattle updates as well.
 
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